Valvoline Restore & Protect

I read quite a bit of this thread but not all 133 pages.. forgive me if this has been asked before.. but is there any consensus or knowledge as to when is best to change it? I'm talking as somebody who drives maybe 3k miles a year (unfortunately TBH. I hate driving my car here in Vegas cause the heat/UV is very extreme [I treat my car like if it was my child] and also drivers on the road are so terrible here at any time you could be in an accident).
Is there any way it's beneficial to use the oil for 3-5k miles instead of changing it at like the 2k mile mark? Somehow it could build up something that makes it work even better to remove carbon deposits? Or is changing it at normal interval mark not more beneficial than changing it early? (I tell people to use their oil for the full mileage it's capable of, I just have a hard time doing that myself cause I like to work on my car)..
And of course when you drain & change the oil the first time R&P is added... not all of the old engine oil is drained out inevitably so it would take at least another change or more to make sure all of the oil in the engine is R&P.. is there any consensus on how long it takes to fully change the engine oil? I know transmission fluid a lot of people say 3x drain & fill should replace just about all of it, maybe 4x. Same for engine oil?
 
I read quite a bit of this thread but not all 133 pages.. forgive me if this has been asked before.. but is there any consensus or knowledge as to when is best to change it? I'm talking as somebody who drives maybe 3k miles a year (unfortunately TBH. I hate driving my car here in Vegas cause the heat/UV is very extreme [I treat my car like if it was my child] and also drivers on the road are so terrible here at any time you could be in an accident).
Is there any way it's beneficial to use the oil for 3-5k miles instead of changing it at like the 2k mile mark? Somehow it could build up something that makes it work even better to remove carbon deposits? Or is changing it at normal interval mark not more beneficial than changing it early? (I tell people to use their oil for the full mileage it's capable of, I just have a hard time doing that myself cause I like to work on my car)..
And of course when you drain & change the oil the first time R&P is added... not all of the old engine oil is drained out inevitably so it would take at least another change or more to make sure all of the oil in the engine is R&P.. is there any consensus on how long it takes to fully change the engine oil? I know transmission fluid a lot of people say 3x drain & fill should replace just about all of it, maybe 4x. Same for engine oil?
If you drive 3k miles per year, just change it every year. Simple.
 
What YZJB stated : Once per year oil change if only 3,000 miles per year usage . I believe for VRP to work best would be to try and include some longer 20+ mile interstate or highway runs in your vehicle where you have sustained speeds for longer distances after the engine has come up to temperature. I don’t know if VRP’s magic engine cleaner is heat activated but I would think that extreme short tripping and / or only 3,000 mile per year usage would equate to waiting quite awhile for VRP engine clean up . Lastly , challenge yourself to head out early when there is less traffic on the road for a nice ride out of Vegas on a semi - regular basis to visit a good rock formation , find a nice meal somewhere out of town , etc. to give you someplace to drive to .
 
What YZJB stated : Once per year oil change if only 3,000 miles per year usage . I believe for VRP to work best would be to try and include some longer 20+ mile interstate or highway runs in your vehicle where you have sustained speeds for longer distances after the engine has come up to temperature. I don’t know if VRP’s magic engine cleaner is heat activated but I would think that extreme short tripping and / or only 3,000 mile per year usage would equate to waiting quite awhile for VRP engine clean up . Lastly , challenge yourself to head out early when there is less traffic on the road for a nice ride out of Vegas on a semi - regular basis to visit a good rock formation , find a nice meal somewhere out of town , etc. to give you someplace to drive to .

For sure, I understand that. About 5 miles to a destination and 5 miles back is the shortest trips I take, longest is usually not more than 10 miles each way though. Only drive 2 or 3 times a week typically. 141k miles on my car (I used to drive it more). I'm hoping within 18-24 months it could make a difference.
And I respect that challenge/recommendation, I should do a little more exploring while I still live here.
 
Update: Checked on these while grabbing some Gumout for the Toyota. No visible change. I’ll use this black one that’s been soaking during the next change with VRP to see what happens while in service.

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Update: The same story continues with the Toyota OEM drain plug washers. The blue type also left material behind. It appears VRP will take off the coating of both the black and blue type washers. No apparent leaks. However it’s something to be aware of as material can stick to the bolt and pan. Heat seems to be needed for this to happen as soaking them for a few months in a container caused no change. Put on a black washer again this time. I predict the same results as before. The Toyota oil filter gasket has not been affected at all.


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Update: The same story continues with the Toyota OEM drain plug washers. The blue type also left material behind. It appears VRP will take off the coating of both the black and blue type washers. No apparent leaks. However it’s something to be aware of as material can stick to the bolt and pan. Heat seems to be needed for this to happen as soaking them for a few months in a container caused no change. Put on a black washer again this time. I predict the same results as before. The Toyota oil filter gasket has not been affected at all.


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Have you reported this to Valvoline? If not, it might be an idea.
 
Update: The same story continues with the Toyota OEM drain plug washers. The blue type also left material behind. It appears VRP will take off the coating of both the black and blue type washers. No apparent leaks. However it’s something to be aware of as material can stick to the bolt and pan. Heat seems to be needed for this to happen as soaking them for a few months in a container caused no change. Put on a black washer again this time. I predict the same results as before. The Toyota oil filter gasket has not been affected at all.


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This is interesting. Thanks for the report. I also use the blue Toyota crush washers for my truck. It was a little stuck to the drain plug, but it came off in one piece. (Not as bad as the Nissan OEM crush washer!! Very annoying to get off.) Nothing was stuck to my oil pan. This was VRP 5W-30 for about 2500 miles and 6 months.
 
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