Valvoline Restore & Protect

A Toyota owners manual I have says never check after overnight, as moisture builds up in the oil and gives an inaccurate reading.
It recommends checking when engine is hot, 10 minutes after turning engine off for more precise reading.
This is the correct method. I don't believe moisture is the issue, but contraction of the oil when cold. Follow the owners manual (which no one reads :) )
 
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I have only used Amsoil SS and HPL PP oil so it was already pretty clean.
..... Amsoil + HPL since 2015? - when purchasing the Honda 1.5 new?
How long were the OCIs and what grade / viscosity used prior?

Consumption increased slow & steady, if you stayed with OEM recommendations of grade and OCIs.
That carbon & fuel polluting engine needed thicker 'quality' oil, right from when it first rolled off the factory assembly line.
 
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It was more an issue of the oil sticking between the tube wall and the flat dipstick (this wouldn't drain out unless the dipstick is pulled). It would just smear the oil reading with extra oil. I read about the issue in the Toyota 4Runner forums. The pull, wipe and wait sequence fixed my oil checking problems.
I tried this today and it worked really good! The line where the oil level is on the dip stick was the most clear of anything I tried. Thank you for the recommendation 👍

IMG_20241123_093514_627.webp
 
Curious to see if my usage of ethanol-free fuel would a difference with R&P, but I'm only with my 1st OCI with R&P and it's too soon to tell. Haven't really noticed much difference with driving yet. I imagine with my 2AZ-FE being port-injected, it probably won't make much of a difference.
 
Curious to see if my usage of ethanol-free fuel would a difference with R&P, but I'm only with my 1st OCI with R&P and it's too soon to tell. Haven't really noticed much difference with driving yet. I imagine with my 2AZ-FE being port-injected, it probably won't make much of a difference.
What's your thoughts on why there should be any difference? Just curious as to how your brain works, I too like to use 90 NE but I'm not sure the price difference between that and 93 E10 is worth it.
 
What's your thoughts on why there should be any difference? Just curious as to how your brain works, I too like to use 90 NE but I'm not sure the price difference between that and 93 E10 is worth it.
Just due to more carbon buildup with lack of ethanol, but then again this is just my curisoity. Up to my next oil change to see if there's carbon in the filter.

I run E0 87/92 depending on the station, but I'd do it for the smoother and more "torque pep" that comes out of it.
 
But why 79? Why not 80? Why not 100? There must be some testing they did for these claims? I get not knowing, but I'm tired of "just marketing" being the answer for stuff we don't know
79% is more believable by the consumers.
 
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That’s a little dark for 710 miles. But I also know the d-series engines can have a lot of buildup due to blow by and the general engine design. Looks like it’s doing a good job of cleaning out the motor
Actually, I think that oil looks fine for the age of the engine and mileage on the oil. I was expecting much darker. My 2000 Dodge Ram 5.2L. that I have since sold would make any oil start turning good and dark at 1000 miles. Never mattered what oil or filter combo.
 
Recently acquired 2015.5 Volvo XC70 w/2.0l I4 turbo.
The vehicle has had exceptional maintenance and has 106k.
I've just begun my first VR&P run.
However, I'm doing this while establishing a method to physically measure any reduction in volume.
This vehicle has no dipstick, and the graphic gauge is vague. Oil gauge details upon request.

My data is at the starting point and uninterpretable.
I started with a complete oil change, = 5.7 qt. using Castrol Edge.
After driving, 775 miles, I drained 5.1 qt. in a solidly repeatable manner.
I refilled with 5.1 qt. of VR&P.
Obviously, subsequent drain volumes are the numbers to be compared.

I want to cover ~1,500 mi. before my second drain.
Wish me...and my oil rings' drain holes, luck.
 
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Actually, I think that oil looks fine for the age of the engine and mileage on the oil. I was expecting much darker. My 2000 Dodge Ram 5.2L. that I have since sold would make any oil start turning good and dark at 1000 miles. Never mattered what oil or filter combo.
You would be the better judge for your particular vehicle. Different circumstances, driving, etc can play a big factor in color and oil condition. If it looks to you, then I wouldn’t be too concerned
 
Just due to more carbon buildup with lack of ethanol, but then again this is just my curisoity. Up to my next oil change to see if there's carbon in the filter.

I run E0 87/92 depending on the station, but I'd do it for the smoother and more "torque pep" that comes out of it.


Ummm, Ethanol keeps the engine internals cleaner yes, but actually ethanol makes MORE power. Engines that can use E85 make much more power, or can make more power that if run on straight gasoline. You can run way more boost and more timing using more ethanol fuel in the mixture vs straight gasoline. It also runs cooler too. Lots of benefits using ethanol from a performance standpoint.

Ethanol also will carry moisture thru the fuel system allowing it to burn and prevents freezing up in cold weather. In the "olden days" prior to ethanol in the fuel, people had to add HEET which is just Methanol alcohol or isopropanol alcohol to prevent these freeze-ups and moisture from plugging up the fuel lines and pumps. With Ethanol fuels you don't need to add a supplement of alcohol which is another benefit.

The only issue with ethanol fuels is they don't like to sit for extend periods as it will pickup moisture out of the air which can be a problem. Ethanol free fuel is best for sitting for extended periods in fuel tanks or engines that don't get used as often.

Either way, I don't see that there would be a difference in ethanol fuels in regards to the VR&P in cleaning the pistons and rings and engine internals up.
 
Ummm, Ethanol keeps the engine internals cleaner yes, but actually ethanol makes MORE power. Engines that can use E85 make much more power, or can make more power that if run on straight gasoline. You can run way more boost and more timing using more ethanol fuel in the mixture vs straight gasoline. It also runs cooler too. Lots of benefits using ethanol from a performance standpoint.

Ethanol also will carry moisture thru the fuel system allowing it to burn and prevents freezing up in cold weather. In the "olden days" prior to ethanol in the fuel, people had to add HEET which is just Methanol alcohol or isopropanol alcohol to prevent these freeze-ups and moisture from plugging up the fuel lines and pumps. With Ethanol fuels you don't need to add a supplement of alcohol which is another benefit.

The only issue with ethanol fuels is they don't like to sit for extend periods as it will pickup moisture out of the air which can be a problem. Ethanol free fuel is best for sitting for extended periods in fuel tanks or engines that don't get used as often.

Either way, I don't see that there would be a difference in ethanol fuels in regards to the VR&P in cleaning the pistons and rings and engine internals up.
Yeah Ethanol would be beneficial depending on the engine. With my car it doesn't really benefit from having more ethanol under its current configuration, but between E0 and E10 I do notice with more responsiveness and better fuel economy under E0. Freezing isn't really much of a concern over here in PNW.

But like what you said, even though the lack of ethanol means that it won't be as clean, I doubt it would make much of a difference with R&P.
 
Yeah Ethanol would be beneficial depending on the engine. With my car it doesn't really benefit from having more ethanol under its current configuration, but between E0 and E10 I do notice with more responsiveness and better fuel economy under E0. Freezing isn't really much of a concern over here in PNW.

But like what you said, even though the lack of ethanol means that it won't be as clean, I doubt it would make much of a difference with R&P.
0% Eth has more BTU/Energy by volume than E10, so the mileage difference makes absolute sense.
 
Just wanted to update you guys. Onto my 3 3rd run of R&P. First 2 runs were 0w20 and the second run while still dark was less so than run 1 at 5k miles. Filter cut found a good bit of carbon but significant less on second run

Moving up to 5w30 for last 2 runs as this is a high mileage motor and it runs quieter with it so far. Will probably pull valve cover after 4th run to inspect.

Ps changed the oil Sunday night and will be over 1k miles tonight.
 
I drank the kool aid. I saw that Rock Auto now has VRP, so I ordered a pack of 6 quart.
1732669748111.webp


However, I noticed some difference in the label.
1732669807502.webp

Notice no mention of liqui shield and 79% less wear ?
Batch number
1732669878665.webp


The other label I commonly see :
1732670006235.webp

which type of label do you have with your bottles ?
 
I drank the kool aid. I saw that Rock Auto now has VRP, so I ordered a pack of 6 quart.
View attachment 251697

However, I noticed some difference in the label.
View attachment 251698
Notice no mention of liqui shield and 79% less wear ?
Batch number
View attachment 251699

The other label I commonly see :
View attachment 251700
which type of label do you have with your bottles ?
I have 2 jugs at home. One is a 0w20 and the other is 5w30. Will take pictures when I get home
 
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