That was the context as I understood it.
Valvoline Restore & Protect
- Thread starter Scott S
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OK, I'm going to give it a try for the 4 oil changes as recommended by them.
I've never been a filter cutter, but I guess I'll get one and be prepared to change the filter at around 400-500 miles in the first OCI and look see what's happening. My 2018 jeep 3.6 has a cartridge filter, so it's easy to see what's what.
I've never been a filter cutter, but I guess I'll get one and be prepared to change the filter at around 400-500 miles in the first OCI and look see what's happening. My 2018 jeep 3.6 has a cartridge filter, so it's easy to see what's what.
Kinda disheartened by the consumption fluctuating so much. Check out my notes: (I should have started this sooner)
"
11/18, 117,353 miles
568 miles and 23 hrs since top off
- added 1 qt
11/14, 116,785 miles
670 miles and 28hrs since top off
- added 1 qt
"
So over the last 1200 driven miles, I've averaged 600miles/1qt of oil in terms of consumption. I've definitely had better performance since using this product, not sure why its going back up.
Such a weird thing, for these latest and greatest oils to disappear like that. It's not just the VRP, I saw consumption using Amsoil SS in my 2017 Sonata with the same engine and less mileage than what I got now.
"
11/18, 117,353 miles
568 miles and 23 hrs since top off
- added 1 qt
11/14, 116,785 miles
670 miles and 28hrs since top off
- added 1 qt
"
So over the last 1200 driven miles, I've averaged 600miles/1qt of oil in terms of consumption. I've definitely had better performance since using this product, not sure why its going back up.
Such a weird thing, for these latest and greatest oils to disappear like that. It's not just the VRP, I saw consumption using Amsoil SS in my 2017 Sonata with the same engine and less mileage than what I got now.
OK, VRP filled. We'll see.
Sorry to hear it. If it stays at 600 miles a quart, maybe you should inquire with that warranty you mentioned having?
I've honestly wondered if it is allowing my rings to get worse than they had been LOL.
There's just so many factors, it's hard to know what's going on.
I you're not checking the oil level exactly the same every time under the same exact conditions, you could easily get a discrepancy like that with the checks being so close together.
Please explain?
If you check it hot vs cold, or check it in different locations you're going to get an inconsistent oil level check. Need to check the level cold or hot (cold makes it easier to read the level) every time in the exact same level location every time to be consistent - like in a level garage or parking spot?
R&P does absolutely work to clean the ring pack. I have a 156k 13 Audi S4 that was using a qt every 400 miles for the last year. I started using RP 5-30 and it did loosen lots of carbon around the piston. The carbon was turning soft and gummy.
These are photos before I ended up doing a piston soak. Side view let's you see the amount of carbon on the piston really well. The oil was actually loosening some of the carbon and it was actually smearing on the cylinder wall on some. Oil consumption was dropping but I ended up doing a piston soak. I'm still running R&P the rest of the winter. Also 1500 miles into the R&P my timing chain was getting a slight rattle and found out the filter was loaded. This why I did a B12 soak to really loosen everything up and flush it out. Long process that involves 6 cans of B12 and 21 qts of oil. The pictures are before anything other than R&P for 1500 miles. You can see the carbon is soft and shiny not dry and solid like usual piston deposits. This oil was 100% attacking the carbon.
These are photos before I ended up doing a piston soak. Side view let's you see the amount of carbon on the piston really well. The oil was actually loosening some of the carbon and it was actually smearing on the cylinder wall on some. Oil consumption was dropping but I ended up doing a piston soak. I'm still running R&P the rest of the winter. Also 1500 miles into the R&P my timing chain was getting a slight rattle and found out the filter was loaded. This why I did a B12 soak to really loosen everything up and flush it out. Long process that involves 6 cans of B12 and 21 qts of oil. The pictures are before anything other than R&P for 1500 miles. You can see the carbon is soft and shiny not dry and solid like usual piston deposits. This oil was 100% attacking the carbon.
Aside from the insinuation I'm not already doing these things, I strongly disagree these factors could lead to a difference of more than a few ounces. And that's how I feel until I see evidence to the contrary.
I'm just saying there could be other reasons why it seems like the oil burning is going up, and an inaccurate oil level measurement can be a factor. The monitoring of the oil use rate is only as good as the consistency and accuracy of the level checks. And the baseline level is also important for tracking oil use. I typically see around a 15% change in oil level between the oil checked cold vs fully hot. One car has ~20% higher oil level when hot vs cold. The dipstick is even marked for cold vs hot level checks (ie, has two different hot "Full" marks). If you calculated a burn rate of 670 mi/qt when checked cold, and then the level was 15% more when hot and you calculated the burn rate based on a hot oil level, then it would come out as 670 x 0.85 = 570 mi/qt if the distance between L and F on the dipstick is 1 quart. Have you ever determined the level difference between a cold check vs a hot check done at the same level parking spot?
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I'm not sure if other oils can't do it, but they do it at a very reasonable cost. If there's enough group V content of the appropriate types, any oil can do it imo.
Have you seen tear downs of engines run on Red Line or other similar oils? I see plenty of tear downs of engines on off the shelf oils and they're almost all pretty nasty in the ring area.
For what you want to see here, you can just saw the filter. Youre not looking for metal parts anyway.
The better, higher end oils will run cleaner. I'd probably include M1 and new Edge on that list too.
Amsoil SS is outstanding and will certainly keep pistons clean. To actually clean ring lands though, you apparently need substantial V like the Premium Blue Restore which was 50% Group V (POE and AN). Maybe HPL/Amsoil could I don't really know.
This is a piston from their double length IIIH.
if you look at the Premium blue restore patent, you need a substabtial amount of group V, but not 50%. It all depends on the base oils chosen. The polarity is key, so lower viscosity (shorter carbon chain) oils will have a bigger effect. They will also compete more fiercely with anti-wear chemistry though.
We don't know what VRP does in adouble lenght test, or what happens when there's more cntaminants than the oil can hold. Logic dictates they will be redeposited somewhere.
I believe the patent stated 50% though. I don't just pull numbers out of nowhere. It was substantial. The virgin oxidation value was 110. Aniline point was part of the solution.
So back to the point, no, I don't think an oil contain 8-10% (Amsoil/HPL etc.) group V could clean piston rings as well. Maybe but I'm not sure.
"Valvoline Premium Blue Restore has about 50% POE and a good dose of AN, the rest being PAO and the standard Valvoline Premium Blue CK-4 HDEO additive package."
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The dipstick on my car doesn't have different markings for hot or cold measurements, but I always check in the same two places (work and home, no discernable difference), using the hot reading, per the manual, which roughly says something like "get engine to operating temp, shut off, check after 5 minutes". And aside from what I consider a crappy design dipstick - because the oil can easily smear up the stick above the level, making an accurate reading tedious, and if the oil is fresh, it's difficult to see where the level is at - I get a reliable enough reading to keep the oil at the proper level.
I have begun to check it when the engine is cold, sometimes, just to see what, if any difference, there would be. But in my vehicle I don't see that much of a difference.
And to my knowledge, the F dot and L dot is actually a Liter, but I always thought it was a quart. Which is confusing, but idk man, a quart it seems to be, when I'm at the L dot and add a quart, it brings me to the F dot.
The patent stated oxidation values, in a very wide range. That has NOTHING to do with percentages of group V in the make up and it wasn't part of the patent.
8-10% will be too low, but 25%?
Pull the dipstick, wipe it clean and then wait 5-10 minutes for the dipstick tube to drain before reinserting the dipstick. Then take your measurement.
My 4Runner would splash oil into the bottom of the dipstick tube when running, and the oil would stay caught in the tube making oil readings unreliable. Once I started waiting a few minutes for it to drain out of the tube, I got reliable and repeatable readings.
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