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If I could buy redline at $6/qt, I'd be running it full time.
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Valvoline Restore & Protect
- Thread starter Scott S
- Start date
No, the PDS actually states it is PAO and V. The Noack even matches the PDS from the patent. Oxidation value of Premium Blue Restore is 110. While that won't give you the ester %, it does indicate it's high.
It also depends on the type of V and overall aniline point if you read the patent. Amsoil, HPL likely only have 8-10% or so group V. Red Line higher but that's a guess. I had Dave G. tell me some of their grades use up to 40%, which I'm not sure I believe. However their 5w40 or 0w40 does have a virgin oxidation value of 129 so who knows.
What's your point?
Mine is it likely takes a significant amount of V to actually CLEAN piston deposits, not RUN clean as shown by the Amsoil photo. So in theory the Amsoil's/HPL's etc. will keep deposits at bay very well and therefore not need an aggressive cleaner. And oils using just 10% POE likely won't clean pistons.
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I found opening the oil filter neck works for me about the same. It's actually part of the instructions for certain other Hyundai Kia vehicles.
I don't dispute the high ester content of premium blue restore, but don't forget this was intended to be used for one oci, then go back to the normal oil. It is essentially a 1 oci flush.
I know you realise the difference between oxidation value and actual ester content, but it's plainly obvious a lot of people don't and they read this too. Every thread about restore muddles this distinction.
Yes anniline point is important to keep the crud suspended when the engine is not in use and the oil is cold (when the actual deposits get built up).
But haven't seen actual teardowns of engines on oils with high(ish) ester content, and was asking if you had seen them. Engines that were run normally in cars.
Gotcha. Over the years I have noticed that engines ran on higher end oils like Amsoil, Red Line, HPL etc. keep engines super clean. You don't see that yellow/clean tint. It's always pure metal looking.
As far as oxidation, it's true that the value doesn't tell you % of ester or how well it would clean due to the shear number of base oils that fall within the V category. The correlation is strong but it won't tell you how much.
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- Mar 10, 2023
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Yes. R&P 0w20. I’m a traveling network technician. So I’m just finishing my second oci. I prefer to run m1 esp 0w30 in my vehicles and will after I finish4 cycles. My 3rd and 4th runs will be 5w30 R&P
Side note. I didn’t own the car until 230k miles so no telling what the maintenance routine or oil change intervals were previously.
Nice, glad it's working for you.
It was more an issue of the oil sticking between the tube wall and the flat dipstick (this wouldn't drain out unless the dipstick is pulled). It would just smear the oil reading with extra oil. I read about the issue in the Toyota 4Runner forums. The pull, wipe and wait sequence fixed my oil checking problems.
Sounds like 1 qt between the L and F dots to me if that's what you're seeing. The owner's manual should say what it is too.
I have to wait a long time when checking my Civic, I noticed that if I'm at Walmart and I check it then it's always low but it's perfectly fine at home after I've left it sitting overnight. Evidently mine takes a long time for all of it to drain back into the pan because 5-10 min certainly isn't enough.
A Toyota owners manual I have says never check after overnight, as moisture builds up in the oil and gives an inaccurate reading.
It recommends checking when engine is hot, 10 minutes after turning engine off for more precise reading.
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Same with every Honda I have owned.
I check it after it’s sat for a few hours but normally the next day before driving.
First time I've heard that. Modern engines are sealed pretty good, so I see no way that moisture could get in the oil overnight and make the oil level go up. Besides, it would take a boat load of moisture in the oil to raise the oil level, like milkshake levels.
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Thanks. I’m glad I’m not burning oil given the mileage and maintenance
Not believable that much moisture would raise the level overnight...at least, not from the standpoint of something called "physics".
Unfortunately, cl
In this context, there isn't a functional difference between a quart and a liter anyway. If you find yourself on L dump a bottle in. on a 5 quart sump you'd be off by 1%....
In this context, there isn't a functional difference between a quart and a liter anyway. If you find yourself on L dump a bottle in. on a 5 quart sump you'd be off by 1%....
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The end of my first run with VRP 5w30 and BMOC will be done next week.
It used slightly more oil than Amsoil SS 0w30 or HPL PP 0w30 ( ran some 0w40 and same consumption ).
3 more oil changes to go.
I don’t think it will a thing to fix or reduce oil consumption in my car , but I will at least tried it and have as clean an engine as you can have.
I think the products works but dirty piston rings aren’t causing the problem in my case.
I have only used Amsoil SS and HPL PP oil so it was already pretty clean.
It used slightly more oil than Amsoil SS 0w30 or HPL PP 0w30 ( ran some 0w40 and same consumption ).
3 more oil changes to go.
I don’t think it will a thing to fix or reduce oil consumption in my car , but I will at least tried it and have as clean an engine as you can have.
I think the products works but dirty piston rings aren’t causing the problem in my case.
I have only used Amsoil SS and HPL PP oil so it was already pretty clean.
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What's the year/milage of the vehicle?
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- Feb 22, 2021
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2015 Honda FIT ( GDI 1.5 litre engine ).
168,000 MILES ( 270,000 Kilometres ).
Car uses 1 quart every 3000 miles/5000 kilometres with Amsoil or HPL but 1.2 quarts with VRP.
Sump only holds 3.3 litres so , to me, that’s excessive oil consumption despite Honda saying 1 quart per 2500 miles/4000 kilometres is acceptable.
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f355spider
$50 Site Donor 2025
Follow what the owners manual states for oil checking. Most will state checking after a few minutes after shutdown on a fully warmed up engine. The manufacturer has a specific checking procedure. Coming up with your own method may not take into account all the variables the manufacturer has such as expansion or contraction of the oil when hot or cold.
The other way to definitively confirm your method is correct is to drain and fill during an oil change and precisely measure what goes in (against the owners manual) and then measure it hot right after and note where it falls on the stick. Then compare that to a cold measurement.
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