Valvoline Restore & Protect


I don't see how the MDS system components being more or less clean would have any impact on how frequently it engages, which is determined by the ECM, based primarily on load. If something was "plugged up", this doesn't alter the parameters used to engage/disengage it, though I could see it making the engagement/disengagement smoother, like I found with HPL.
 
I don't see how the MDS system components being more or less clean would have any impact on how frequently it engages, which is determined by the ECM, based primarily on load. If something was "plugged up", this doesn't alter the parameters used to engage/disengage it, though I could see it making the engagement/disengagement smoother, like I found with HPL.
Maybe HPL has a super low coefficient of friction.
 
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If new VRP users are finding deposit removal in their engines previously running 4K to 5K mile OCI’s with name brand synthetic oils and their PCV valve is in good working order - then perhaps a 3K mile OCI is in order ?
Probably so in a case like the Hyundai/Kia 1.6 gamma engines. Loads and loads of them plugged up the piston rings with 5K oil changes. I can personally vouch for that. I don’t even know if 3K would compensate for a bad design.
 
As best as I can tell there are now only two UOAs posted for VRP. Both were of the 5w-30 flavor and both had had fallen below grade after a relatively short OCI. As the saying goes, "Once is chance, twice is coincidence and the third time it's a pattern." The more colorful version of that is that the third time is the result of enemy action.
 
As best as I can tell there are now only two UOAs posted for VRP. Both were of the 5w-30 flavor and both had had fallen below grade after a relatively short OCI. As the saying goes, "Once is chance, twice is coincidence and the third time it's a pattern." The more colorful version of that is that the third time is the result of enemy action.
TIA Were they in DI engines with fuel dilution, or engines that had fuel dilution? I don't remember the UOA reports. In any event when cleaning up an engine, shorter OCIs IMO is always a good idea.
 
As best as I can tell there are now only two UOAs posted for VRP. Both were of the 5w-30 flavor and both had had fallen below grade after a relatively short OCI. As the saying goes, "Once is chance, twice is coincidence and the third time it's a pattern." The more colorful version of that is that the third time is the result of enemy action.
The VRP oils are still API SP fuel economy grades so shear stability will not be on par with the Euro and boutique 5w30's. However if it's fuel dilution related, all oils will have this issue.

https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2024/06/dealing-with-deposits-to-boost-engine-life/
 
Probably so in a case like the Hyundai/Kia 1.6 gamma engines. Loads and loads of them plugged up the piston rings with 5K oil changes. I can personally vouch for that. I don’t even know if 3K would compensate for a bad design.
Running the infamous Hyundai 2.4 L non - turbo Theta II GDI engine here . I have used Mobil and SOPUS synthrtic 5W30 oils all run at severe service interval OCI ‘s (3750 miles / 6 months with Fram Ultra filter) and yet I have an oil consumption issue with this engine . Current fill is M1 5W30 EP plus 16 oz. Rislone engine cleaner . I’ll consider Valvoline R&P 5W30 or Frankenstein M1 5W30 EP with M1 5W40 Euro synthetic oil to see if I can cut back on the oil burning through cleaner rings and / or thicker weight oil .
 
Running the infamous Hyundai 2.4 L non - turbo Theta II GDI engine here . I have used Mobil and SOPUS synthrtic 5W30 oils all run at severe service interval OCI ‘s (3750 miles / 6 months with Fram Ultra filter) and yet I have an oil consumption issue with this engine . Current fill is M1 5W30 EP plus 16 oz. Rislone engine cleaner . I’ll consider Valvoline R&P 5W30 or Frankenstein M1 5W30 EP with M1 5W40 Euro synthetic oil to see if I can cut back on the oil burning through cleaner rings and / or thicker weight oil .
Yup, as you can see in my signature, my son is running one of these engines also. He's at 55K right now and so far, so good. I have been changing his oil every 4K. So far, mostly Napa, Supertech and Havoline.
 
What's the hths for the 0w-20 version?
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Running the infamous Hyundai 2.4 L non - turbo Theta II GDI engine here . I have used Mobil and SOPUS synthrtic 5W30 oils all run at severe service interval OCI ‘s (3750 miles / 6 months with Fram Ultra filter) and yet I have an oil consumption issue with this engine . Current fill is M1 5W30 EP plus 16 oz. Rislone engine cleaner . I’ll consider Valvoline R&P 5W30 or Frankenstein M1 5W30 EP with M1 5W40 Euro synthetic oil to see if I can cut back on the oil burning through cleaner rings and / or thicker weight oil .
Just out of curiosity do you use TT fuel?
 


I only watched this video because you posted it here as I avoid these types of videos like the plague, and yes he's a little off the deep end but that won't stop him from posting "THIS OIL FIXED MY HEMI" in all caps without understanding how the system works.

Did he even listen to the video he recorded, because I heard MDS kicking in/out every few seconds so I'm wondering how bad it must have been in the past.
 
It fixed my kids Tacoma oil burning in 1 oil change. Taco is a 13 w 180ish k miles, it had just started burning and a new pcv valve didn't fix it either. It also resolved a ivvt code that was coming and going in the first oil change. Motor is clean thru the oil fill hole and was maintained by previous owner, lots of records. It worked for us, no complaints with it.
V6 or IL4 ? my 11v6 with 100k uses no oil.
 
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