Valvoline Restore & Protect

I hate to say this but I have half sump 5w20 NO VII and DELVAC 1 ESP 5w40 and my oil is still a medium amber with zero consumption. 11’ Focus.

I do have 1 quart EC 30 HPL in Dakota and it darkened quickly. I don’t see need to get Valvoline restore and protect. HPL and David and his staff are top notch.
 
Has anyone ever got a response from Valvoline Canada contact us ???.. I have sent them three messages and they never respond.. Tried to contact on FB, no reply.. Called their support line, and its all US based, so they have no clue if and when restore will be coming to Canada.. But on the CND side of their website they post the product..
 
Has anyone ever got a response from Valvoline Canada contact us ???.. I have sent them three messages and they never respond.. Tried to contact on FB, no reply.. Called their support line, and its all US based, so they have no clue if and when restore will be coming to Canada.. But on the CND side of their website they post the product..
That's not really good customer support if you ask me.
 
Has anyone ever got a response from Valvoline Canada contact us ???.. I have sent them three messages and they never respond.. Tried to contact on FB, no reply.. Called their support line, and its all US based, so they have no clue if and when restore will be coming to Canada.. But on the CND side of their website they post the product..
I actually got a response from Valvoline Canada within an hour of sending them an email but the canned response they gave me was of no use 🫤
 
Has anybody experienced leaks with this oil when used in old vehicles? Talking about the way some oils with great cleaning ability will "find" the leaks that were previously blocked off by sludge.

I emailed Valvoline and they replied that VRP does not contain as much seal conditioner as their High Mileage products.
 
Has anybody experienced leaks with this oil when used in old vehicles? Talking about the way some oils with great cleaning ability will "find" the leaks that were previously blocked off by sludge.

I emailed Valvoline and they replied that VRP does not contain as much seal conditioner as their High Mileage products.

No leaks for me. I'm running it in two vehicles now. My 2014 5.3 Chevy truck, and our 2018 Audi Q7 with 3.0t.

If the "sludge" was sealing any gaps then there a mechanical faults that should be dealt with anyway, or a seal replaced or whatever. IMO this oil is worth it to keep the internals clean on engines with rings that are prone to sticking or in the case of my truck, liters that are prone to fail as well along with sticking oil control rings.

From the looks of the used oil analysis that have been reported, its also good at keeping wear down and wear metals in check as well. So far I've been happy with the engine smoothness and resultant oil consumption, or I should say lack of oil consumption results, for me thats what its all about as the Q7 was consuming a quart in 400 miles, prior to my B12 piston soak and switch to the VR&P. 2300 miles in on that vehicle now and zero oil loss. Getting ready to do a second fill on that one with another round of VR&P.
 
From the looks of the used oil analysis that have been reported, its also good at keeping wear down and wear metals in check as well. So far I've been happy with the engine smoothness and resultant oil consumption, or I should say lack of oil consumption results, for me thats what its all about as the Q7 was consuming a quart in 400 miles, prior to my B12 piston soak and switch to the VR&P. 2300 miles in on that vehicle now and zero oil loss. Getting ready to do a second fill on that one with another round of VR&P.
How long did you do the B12 piston soak for, and did you move the crank with a breaker bar to move the pistons or no?
 
Again, as noted by member Buster numerous times, there's a difference between an oil breaking down sludge and breaking down carbon.

Also, why would anyone think that a non high mileage oil would have the same amount of seal conditioners as a high mileage oil?
 
Again, as noted by member Buster numerous times, there's a difference between an oil breaking down sludge and breaking down carbon.

Also, why would anyone think that a non high mileage oil would have the same amount of seal conditioners as a high mileage oil?
I don't know why you think you need to be so snarky, but it certainly doesn't add to the quality of the conversation.

The reason why I asked Valvoline about the level of seal conditioners in VRP is because the word "Restore" is in the name. Think about that for a second. Do things that are brand new, in tip-top shape, ever need to be  restored? No, it's old things that are in poor condition that call for restoration.

Because of that, this oil is bound to attract DIYers with old vehicles. Old vehicles that may weep, seep, or be on the cusp of a leak. I was wondering if Valvoline had accounted for that or not. I think it's a sensible question and they had no qualms about answering it.
 
How long did you do the B12 piston soak for, and did you move the crank with a breaker bar to move the pistons or no?


I did rotate the crank yes. Initially I used a brass spray nozzle with a 360 degree spray to it attached to a squirt bottle with a flexible hose to "wash" fully around the cylinder to try and get the B12 all the way around the piston and rings and let it soak all the way around with about 3 oz per cylinder. Then waited a few hours and rotated the crank and did it again. Eventually the carbon washed to the low side of the piston and would no longer rotate past TDC due to the carbon buildup, I could see the carbon on the borescope. I had to blow out the carbon to get the crank to rotate again after I sucked the B12 from the cylinders. The V6 configuration requires a bit of out of the box thinking due to the piston angle vs a straight up 4 cylinder configuration.

The last hours of my soak I filled each cylinder with 8 OZ of B12 to completely cover the entire piston at the bottom of the stroke for a couple hours before sucking it out and re-using it in another cylinder. Ended up with about 16 oz in the crankcase, I added a can of BG EPR to the engine along with the 16 oz of B12. Started the engine, let it warm up a bit and reved it up to 1500 and let it run for 20 min. then dropped the oil and put in the Valvoline Restore & Protect in a 5W-30 flavor. The first 40 miles after the soak and flush it consumed 1/4 Qt of oil, then completely stopped after that initial 1/4 Qt. I beat the heck out of the engine running it hard and to redline often and the control rings freed right up. Pulled the filter around 1200 miles and had plenty of carbon in that filter. New filter installed and have 2300 miles on it now and hasn't used a drop of oil since that first 40 miles, (was using 1 Qt every 400 miles). Every time the vehicle goes out it goes to redline and full throttle shifting thru the gears for at least 10 seconds or so once the oil is warmed up. Getting ready to change the oil with another round of VR&P soon, around the 2500-3000 mile mark I'm thinking.
 
I did rotate the crank yes. Initially I used a brass spray nozzle with a 360 degree spray to it attached to a squirt bottle with a flexible hose to "wash" fully around the cylinder to try and get the B12 all the way around the piston and rings and let it soak all the way around with about 3 oz per cylinder. Then waited a few hours and rotated the crank and did it again. Eventually the carbon washed to the low side of the piston and would no longer rotate past TDC due to the carbon buildup, I could see the carbon on the borescope. I had to blow out the carbon to get the crank to rotate again after I sucked the B12 from the cylinders. The V6 configuration requires a bit of out of the box thinking due to the piston angle vs a straight up 4 cylinder configuration.

The last hours of my soak I filled each cylinder with 8 OZ of B12 to completely cover the entire piston at the bottom of the stroke for a couple hours before sucking it out and re-using it in another cylinder. Ended up with about 16 oz in the crankcase, I added a can of BG EPR to the engine along with the 16 oz of B12. Started the engine, let it warm up a bit and reved it up to 1500 and let it run for 20 min. then dropped the oil and put in the Valvoline Restore & Protect in a 5W-30 flavor. The first 40 miles after the soak and flush it consumed 1/4 Qt of oil, then completely stopped after that initial 1/4 Qt. I beat the heck out of the engine running it hard and to redline often and the control rings freed right up. Pulled the filter around 1200 miles and had plenty of carbon in that filter. New filter installed and have 2300 miles on it now and hasn't used a drop of oil since that first 40 miles, (was using 1 Qt every 400 miles). Every time the vehicle goes out it goes to redline and full throttle shifting thru the gears for at least 10 seconds or so once the oil is warmed up. Getting ready to change the oil with another round of VR&P soon, around the 2500-3000 mile mark I'm thinking.
What did you use to suck out the B12? When I've done this in the past, I just turned the engine over with rags over the open spark plug holes, and it ejects the remaining B12 and carbon. When you look at the rag afterward, you can see the carbon all over the rag where it got spit out of the cylinder.

I never spun the crank though when doing it, so next time I will.

I don't understand what you mean when you say the engine wouldn't spin past TDC because of the carbon washing down to one side. Did you have some of the spark plugs installed at that point?
 
What did you use to suck out the B12? When I've done this in the past, I just turned the engine over with rags over the open spark plug holes, and it ejects the remaining B12 and carbon. When you look at the rag afterward, you can see the carbon all over the rag where it got spit out of the cylinder.

I never spun the crank though when doing it, so next time I will.

I don't understand what you mean when you say the engine wouldn't spin past TDC because of the carbon washing down to one side. Did you have some of the spark plugs installed at that point?

I just used a squirt bottle with a hose on the end to suck out the B12. Like a plastic ketchup or mustard bottle used at the local diner. Collapse it in your hand and let it suck with a flexible hose on the end. Worked great, till the hose plugs with the carbon chunks, then just squirt it into another bottle to free the hose up again.

No, Plugs out, the carbon chunks and debris drained to the low side of the piston and took up more gap than was available and lodged in-between the piston and head preventing the piston form going any further upward and allow the crank to turn. Have to back off the crank and blow out the carbon from that affected piston/cylinder prior to turning crank again.
 
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No, Plugs out, the carbon chunks and debris drained to the low side of the piston and took up more gap than was available and lodged in-between the piston and head preventing the piston form going any further upward and allow the crank to turn. Have to back off the crank and blow out the carbon from that affected piston/cylinder prior to turning crank again.
That's crazy. I've only done it on a 4 cylinder before, but the next time I do it will be with a V6, so that's good to know.
 
Another great used oil analysis with the VR&P. So much for that dipshilt Rat540 saying that VR&P would wear your engine right out possible even seizing it....

Been multiple oil reports showing low wear metals now. Rat540 won't even test it on his machine. F'n guy is so full of himself and self impressed. Real wanker that Rat540 dude.... Little does he know that there's more to an oil than just testing pressures for wiped cam lobes.... Low tension ring lands and rings must remain clean to prevent ring sticking too.

 
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Another great used oil analysis with the VR&P. So much for that dipshilt Rat540 saying that VR&P would wear your engine right out possible even seizing it....

Been multiple oil reports showing low wear metals now. Rat540 won't even test it on his machine. F'n guy is so full of himself and self impressed. Real wanker that Rat540 dude.... Little does he know that there's more to an oil than just testing pressures for wiped cam lobes.... Low tension ring lands and rings must remain clean to prevent ring sticking too.

His "rig" doesn't test pressures for wiped cam lobes, it's basically a gear oil test being run on engine oils, and a very crude one at that. Member @Garak did the "error bars" on that test at one point and it was like the first 50 or 100 results were statistically identical.
 
His "rig" doesn't test pressures for wiped cam lobes, it's basically a gear oil test being run on engine oils, and a very crude one at that. Member @Garak did the "error bars" on that test at one point and it was like the first 50 or 100 results were statistically identical.
Think that was me. Seems that thread is gone (link broken in the post linked below), but I have the graph on one of my computers.

 
Think that was me. Seems that thread is gone (link broken in the post linked below), but I have the graph on one of my computers.

My apologies for the mis-attribution.
 
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