Valvoline Restore & Protect

The way I see it is Valvoline came out with this oil and hyped it's claims in their marketing. Nobody here believed them. My thinking was, valvoline is not going to risk their good reputation by making false claims on this large a scale. Now we are starting to see some results.
 
The LSJ video helped and so did this quote from a recent article:

"Traditionally the role of engine oil has been to slow down engine deposit development, but in concocting its latest engine-protecting blend, the Valvoline team stumbled upon something… surprising."

“We were trying to basically minimize deposits, engine wear, friction and heat, and oil formulation is a balance, so you have to pick and choose what you want it to do,” Warholic says. “What we didn’t know was before the testing that it would remove and reverse the process – that is something you can’t predict by modeling. Restore and Protect removed engine deposits. I had never seen anything like it before, and I have eight years at Valvoline and 16 years at a company that makes the additives used in oil formulation.”
 
Last edited:
On that filter video I think the guy had said he was getting different noises from the motor prompting him to check/change that.

I didn't see anything on history of use or more likely neglect IMO.
 
I wish it had some kind of MB approval, ANY kind
That would just drive up the price. What would be your concerns anyway, wear ....or deposits? No modern oil will fail so terribly there's an issue over a few short oil changes anyway. Specs are designed for a long term service plan, and mostly the oil is tested to insure serviceability for far extended drains, not 5k. Many MB engines just don't care anyway, if it's M112/113 or M278 or similar N/A, even M276 DI is fine on nearly any oil in the store.


mboilspecORstandard_1.webp
 
That would just drive up the price. What would be your concerns anyway, wear ....or deposits? No modern oil will fail so terribly there's an issue over a few short oil changes anyway. Specs are designed for a long term service plan, and mostly the oil is tested to insure serviceability for far extended drains, not 5k. Many MB engines just don't care anyway, if it's M112/113 or M278 or similar N/A, even M276 DI is fine on nearly any oil in the store.


View attachment 234234
What I'm trying to do is find a 229.5 or .6 oil for long term use, to replace the Ravenol VST that I've been using since I bought the car.
Currently Valvoline Euro 5W-40 fits that bill, and will probably be my long term choice.
Even with 229.5 approval, the Euro version doesn't appear to be priced higher that most other products out there.
The VST is purported to have a high PAO content, and I suspect VRP is similar and is the main reason for its cleaning action.
 
I’ve been running Mobil1 EP, Castrol Edge, and the occasional SuperTech in my RAV4 Hybrid for 85K miles on 4-5K OCIs. The first VRP OCI seems to have cleaned out a bunch of stuff that the other oils missed.
That's because oils aren't designed to clean, they are designed to keep things clean, a small, but important distinction. Because some deposits are inevitable (the API mandates a limit on deposits, not the avoidance of) a produce that IS designed to actually clean, will expectedly liberate some of those accumulated deposits, like you've observed, and like many of us have observed with HPL.
 
Does anyone have any apprehensions or worries about engine seals after running VRP? Including after numerous changes?
No. A well formulated certified oil has to be compatible with seals. It also doesn't rely on esters for cleaning.
 
Does anyone have any apprehensions or worries about engine seals after running VRP? Including after numerous changes?
Only if you have a bad seal to begin with. Any oil that cleans or a flush product can clean off sludge build up around already worn out seals that may have been preventing a leak and as a result the seal that was already bad can start leaking.
 
Only if you have a bad seal to begin with. Any oil that cleans or a flush product can clean off sludge build up around already worn out seals that may have been preventing a leak and as a result the seal that was already bad can start leaking.
So, sludge can make a bad seal, seal well. :unsure:

Just kidding. I get it. 😉
 
You sure have a lot of faith in auto mechanics.

Mechanics and Goofball shops are the worst source of lube info. They rely upon guesswork, speculation, bluster and Old Wives' Tales for their ideas. Never can they withstand the most basic of qualifying questions, and never ever have they done a UOA yet alone know what it is. BUT they are full of BS nonsense advice....
 
What I'm trying to do is find a 229.5 or .6 oil for long term use, to replace the Ravenol VST that I've been using since I bought the car.
Currently Valvoline Euro 5W-40 fits that bill, and will probably be my long term choice.
Even with 229.5 approval, the Euro version doesn't appear to be priced higher that most other products out there.
The VST is purported to have a high PAO content, and I suspect VRP is similar and is the main reason for its cleaning action.

This is for M278? I'm just not very picky for that engine.
IMG_20210419_122550.jpg



Even my M276s I just throw whatever oil at them. I buy WAY in advance for my seven cars at discount , and fit the stocked oil to the engine/climate as I go.
thumbnail_1000005461.jpg


For my new M274 I use Pennzoil Euro L, MB 229.51 which might be the ticket for newer engines....
 
So, sludge can make a bad seal, seal well. :unsure:

Just kidding. I get it. 😉
I think of it like roofing tar on a small leak, it works to stop the leak but it doesn't fix it, once you remove/clean that tar the leak will start again.
 
I'm wondering if VRP would be needed if everyone had an OCI of 3-5K miles. My guess is probably not.
If new VRP users are finding deposit removal in their engines previously running 4K to 5K mile OCI’s with name brand synthetic oils and their PCV valve is in good working order - then perhaps a 3K mile OCI is in order ?
 
  • Like
Reactions: wlk
Back
Top Bottom