Valvoline Restore & Protect

[goingplacesanddoingstuff]

Looks like the sludge layering in the last 7/16 pic fill port is starting to show some emulsifying, where as picture before shows it pretty baked in. interesting progress.

FWIW emulsifying is when two immiscible fluids form a uniform mix through droplet suspension, such as nonpolar olive oil distributing itself in polar spaghetti water.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Any good name-brand gasoline synthetic oil won't bear varnish - plus it will eventually remove varnish in a few OCIs.
If you are experiencing varnish using today's ILSAC / SN PLus/SP oils, either you are not changing the oil frequently enough or you are letting the oil dipstick mark run low - too often with engines that run +temperature readings.

If you are like me, you maintain optimum oil and it's levels. You keep the inner engine clean. After an oil change, I will exhibit....
1-1000 miles (clear dipstick)
1000-2000 miles (amber brown)
2000-3000 miles (leaning more heavily into the color Black.

A few times I used Platinum and the dipstick color stayed clear most of the OCI. The old formula Valvoline did it also, But not anymore.
I quit using Platinum & Valvoline makers changed their formulas. Castrol EP/Mobil-1 EP color fall-in-line with what I like.

Amsoil and HPL are still a work-in-progress for me. I expect deeper cleaning and blacker sooner with them. Eventually the oil colors will normalize with the additive-rich boutiques.

If (over a period of 3-4 decades) you use the same 4-5 name brands of oil, then the saying "oil color is irrelevant" is incorrect. You should know your oil's color, just by how many miles you are inside of your current OCI and you've taken great cleaning care of that inner engine and you;re not purchasing all of the 8-9 major brand-names.

Decide what brands you like best (narrow the choices) and stick with them you trust most.
If you are buying and selling your vehicles premature to old age, discard everything I just said and let the new owners adjust accordingly.

 

[Fa24wrx]

View attachment 230845

First 5000 miles completed in the BMW X5. There has been no change in the varnish on the cylinder head from what I can see. There is a small amount of particulate matter in between the filter pleats. But, I’ve seen this with just normal oil changes as well.

Nothing significant.

Refilled with 7 quarts of R&P for the next 5000 miles.

I’ll check back in if anything interesting happens.

I may have missed a previous post. Was there an indication you're X5 needed to be cleaned? How many miles? What about previous oils and oci?

 

[CEHepp]

I may have missed a previous post. Was there an indication you're X5 needed to be cleaned? How many miles? What about previous oils and oci?

No outward indications other than mild oil consumption. I was feeding it a steady diet of LiquiMoly but I’ve come to realize that EVERYTHING I put LiquiMoly in consumes that oil. The consumption has gone to essentially zero with R&P but it also dropped in my other cars using ACdelco syn oil. Aside from that, cleaner piston rings in any engine is something I would like to have. That’s my number one reason for using the oil.

The engine is clean and without sludge. Just normal varnish.

I just rolled over 170K miles.

I will say this much, there has been an increase in fuel economy. A very noticeable increase.

 

[KnappAttak]

No outward indications other than mild oil consumption. I was feeding it a steady diet of LiquiMoly but I’ve come to realize that EVERYTHING I put LiquiMoly in consumes that oil. The consumption has gone to essentially zero with R&P but it also dropped in my other cars using ACdelco syn oil. Aside from that, cleaner piston rings in any engine is something I would like to have. That’s my number one reason for using the oil.

The engine is clean and without sludge. Just normal varnish.

I just rolled over 170K miles.

I will say this much, there has been an increase in fuel economy. A very noticeable increase.

Interesting you put it in a Euro vehicle. I too have installed Valvoline Restore & Protect 5-30 in our new to us 85,000 mile, 2018 Audi Q7 3.0T that was gobbling oil at a rate of about 1 QT in 500 miles or so. They are notorious for low tension ring sticking. I took the time to do a Berryman's B-12 piston soak & a BG EPR engine flush. I then installed the Valvoline Restore & Protect. We've put only 200 miles on it so far and have been concerned about not putting in Euro oil with the required >3.5 HTHS, but what choice do you have while trying to clean up the piston ring lands and the stuck rings. After my pistons cleaning, flush and install of this oil, we drove 40 miles on way up to the Twin Cities and watched the oil level go down and use about 1/4 quart of oil, on the way back and since it hasn't used any oil since, so thats a good sign I think. Most people that have done the Berryman's B-12 piston soak have fixed the oil consumption on their 3.0t engines, but without clean pistons and oil rings it will comeback right, so exactly the reason to use the Restore & Protect, after all the Euro oils dont seem to be working to prevent stuck oil rings in this engine.

I figure to run this first change of R&P to 2000 miles, change and run another 5000 mile change of the R&P, take a sample and send it off to Blackstone to see the engine wear figures and how this oil does.

How important is the >3.5 HTHS Euro requirements here in the US where we don't have the autobahn anyway, not running the bigs speeds pushing up the oil temps? Here in the US we run lower speeds, use less power and run lower sustained RPM while causing. Someone correct me if I'm thinking wrong here. Typically I'd be running my preferred M1 0-40 in this engine, but because of the ring sticking these engines are know for I figured I would be better off trying to clean the piston ring lands with this R&P product first before switching back to the M1 0-40 first. If this R&P works as advertised it may take a few changes ever now and again to keep these rings from sticking again. Or use the BG EPR flush every few changes perhaps... I don't like taking these risks with flushes or "non approved" engine oils, but I figure doing nothing will score the cylinders, pistons and eventually take the engine out anyway. Borescope shows the cylinder walls are in good shape with no scoring now.

 

[Azimuth]

Typically I'd be running my preferred M1 0-40 in this engine, but because of the ring sticking these engines are know for I figured I would be better off trying to clean the piston ring lands with this R&P product first before switching back to the M1 0-40 first.

What oil viscosity/ies does the sticker in the engine compartment mention?

 

[GSCJR]

It doesn't, it mentions a VW approval number, if anything. Probably VW 502.00 if I had to guess.

 

[Kalle.J]

Interesting you put it in a Euro vehicle. I too have installed Valvoline Restore & Protect 5-30 in our new to us 85,000 mile, 2018 Audi Q7 3.0T that was gobbling oil at a rate of about 1 QT in 500 miles or so. They are notorious for low tension ring sticking. I took the time to do a Berryman's B-12 piston soak & a BG EPR engine flush. I then installed the Valvoline Restore & Protect. We've put only 200 miles on it so far and have been concerned about not putting in Euro oil with the required >3.5 HTHS, but what choice do you have while trying to clean up the piston ring lands and the stuck rings. After my pistons cleaning, flush and install of this oil, we drove 40 miles on way up to the Twin Cities and watched the oil level go down and use about 1/4 quart of oil, on the way back and since it hasn't used any oil since, so thats a good sign I think. Most people that have done the Berryman's B-12 piston soak have fixed the oil consumption on their 3.0t engines, but without clean pistons and oil rings it will comeback right, so exactly the reason to use the Restore & Protect, after all the Euro oils dont seem to be working to prevent stuck oil rings in this engine.

I figure to run this first change of R&P to 2000 miles, change and run another 5000 mile change of the R&P, take a sample and send it off to Blackstone to see the engine wear figures and how this oil does.

How important is the >3.5 HTHS Euro requirements here in the US where we don't have the autobahn anyway, not running the bigs speeds pushing up the oil temps? Here in the US we run lower speeds, use less power and run lower sustained RPM while causing. Someone correct me if I'm thinking wrong here. Typically I'd be running my preferred M1 0-40 in this engine, but because of the ring sticking these engines are know for I figured I would be better off trying to clean the piston ring lands with this R&P product first before switching back to the M1 0-40 first. If this R&P works as advertised it may take a few changes ever now and again to keep these rings from sticking again. Or use the BG EPR flush every few changes perhaps... I don't like taking these risks with flushes or "non approved" engine oils, but I figure doing nothing will score the cylinders, pistons and eventually take the engine out anyway. Borescope shows the cylinder walls are in good shape with no scoring now.

Should be fine with short OCI, IMO. Just drive sensibly.

Valvoline R&P 10.8 Cst @ 100c
xW30 Euro is at around 12 Cst

 

[ZeeOSix]

How important is the >3.5 HTHS Euro requirements here in the US where we don't have the autobahn anyway, not running the bigs speeds pushing up the oil temps? Here in the US we run lower speeds, use less power and run lower sustained RPM while causing. Someone correct me if I'm thinking wrong here.

Think someone contacted Valvoline and posted (in this thread?) that the 5W-30 R&P HTHS was 3.2 - 3.3 cP, so should be fine for normal street driving. Many US sports cars with over 435 HP have specified xW-20 oils, so running a 5W-30 with 3.2 HTHS for street driving would not be a concern. If tracking the car, obviously go to a xW-40.

 

[KnappAttak]

What oil viscosity/ies does the sticker in the engine compartment mention?

Doesn't have a sticker in the engine compartment, but VW 502/505 is what I found online for the 18 Q7 and has been around for a while.

Should be fine with short OCI, IMO. Just drive sensibly.

Valvoline R&P 10.8 Cst @ 100c
xW30 Euro is at around 12 Cst

Thought the same thing. It does get run full bore every time it goes out though, once the oil is up to temp it goes to full song now and again.

I fully believe thats why these things burn oil too. People don't break them in hard enough to seat the rings well and they don't get the Italian tune-ups done near enough. Most of them I believe are driven by soccer Moms and old people. It's my wife's car, but I'm a old drag racer, and she too knows how to wring them out hard. Many times were drag racing vehicles side by side down the interstate... Its her car and she's not afraid to get after it.

Would think as long as the oil temps are in check the 5-30 R&P should be OK at its 3.2 HTHS that was posted earlier and going short oil changes.

Funny, I contacted Valvoline and they did not recommend using it in the Audi. They recommended using the "approved oil" Euro 5-40 in it. Of course they said if I ran the R&P it was my prerogative, but I was on my own as it didn't have the approvals, and they have no plans to build a EURO R&P oil down the road either, which had me wondering if the R&P was really what it should be, or do whats its supposed to do, or maybe perhaps it just can't be built to perform like a EURO should. I dont know but I'm trying it to keep the ring lands clean and unstuck. Hopefully it does what its supposed to do and won't wear our engine out prematurely using it.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Funny, I contacted Valvoline and they did not recommend using it in the Audi. They recommended using the "approved oil" Euro 5-40 in it. Of course they said if I ran the R&P it was my prerogative, but I was on my own as it didn't have the approvals, and they have no plans to build a EURO R&P oil down the road either, which had me wondering if the R&P was really what it should be, or do whats its supposed to do, or maybe perhaps it just can't be built to perform like a EURO should. I dont know but I'm trying it to keep the ring lands clean and unstuck. Hopefully it does what its supposed to do and won't wear our engine out prematurely using it.

Pretty much any oil maker will by default say "use the manufacturer's recommended/approved oil" to cover their liability.

What's so special about Euro built engines compared to other engines that don't require a Euro speced oil? They use some unicorn metallurgy that requires unicorn oil, lol ?

 

[CEHepp]

Interesting you put it in a Euro vehicle. I too have installed Valvoline Restore & Protect 5-30 in our new to us 85,000 mile, 2018 Audi Q7 3.0T that was gobbling oil at a rate of about 1 QT in 500 miles or so. They are notorious for low tension ring sticking. I took the time to do a Berryman's B-12 piston soak & a BG EPR engine flush. I then installed the Valvoline Restore & Protect. We've put only 200 miles on it so far and have been concerned about not putting in Euro oil with the required >3.5 HTHS, but what choice do you have while trying to clean up the piston ring lands and the stuck rings. After my pistons cleaning, flush and install of this oil, we drove 40 miles on way up to the Twin Cities and watched the oil level go down and use about 1/4 quart of oil, on the way back and since it hasn't used any oil since, so thats a good sign I think. Most people that have done the Berryman's B-12 piston soak have fixed the oil consumption on their 3.0t engines, but without clean pistons and oil rings it will comeback right, so exactly the reason to use the Restore & Protect, after all the Euro oils dont seem to be working to prevent stuck oil rings in this engine.

I figure to run this first change of R&P to 2000 miles, change and run another 5000 mile change of the R&P, take a sample and send it off to Blackstone to see the engine wear figures and how this oil does.

How important is the >3.5 HTHS Euro requirements here in the US where we don't have the autobahn anyway, not running the bigs speeds pushing up the oil temps? Here in the US we run lower speeds, use less power and run lower sustained RPM while causing. Someone correct me if I'm thinking wrong here. Typically I'd be running my preferred M1 0-40 in this engine, but because of the ring sticking these engines are know for I figured I would be better off trying to clean the piston ring lands with this R&P product first before switching back to the M1 0-40 first. If this R&P works as advertised it may take a few changes ever now and again to keep these rings from sticking again. Or use the BG EPR flush every few changes perhaps... I don't like taking these risks with flushes or "non approved" engine oils, but I figure doing nothing will score the cylinders, pistons and eventually take the engine out anyway. Borescope shows the cylinder walls are in good shape with no scoring now.

I’ve been putting non-Euro spec oil in VWAG stuff for years and never had a problem. The only time I’m super concerned about the exact specification is when I’m working on something special like RS/M/AMG models.

 

[Drush]

I just wanted to give a small update. I put about 500 miles on the oil so far.

Some thoughts....

I put 12k miles on my Crosstrek in the past year or so that I had it. Almost every time that it sat for 24 hours or more I had a quick "kazoo" type noise when I started my car. I just assumed that it was building oil pressure and did not think much of it. Well that noise has been gone after the first couple drives with this oil. I have no idea what was causing it, but its gone. It could be anything but the oil was the only thing that I changed.

The car seems to run a bit smoother and quieter. I can barely feel that it is on at a stop light.

Gas mileage is about the same. Well within any kind of margin of error. 32mpg highway. 25 if I'm driving around back roads.

Now for the big one. 1-2k rpm always seemed to be almost like a throttle dead zone. I just got used to it. This oil seems to have brought it back. Its almost like there is torque where there was no torque before. I'm not sure what to think of that yet.

Even if this oil isn't cleaning anything I see no reason why I should switch back to Pennzoil.

So I bit the bullet and bought this for my 99 tahoe. Always burned a little bit of oil in 1000 miles. Like a quart. Noticed with this oil I'm at around 1600 miles at a quart. I used the penzoil. I didn't like it. Up to temp oil pressure was the same as 4k oil ready to change. 5w-30 and cold temp was lower then even autozone stp oil. Between Mobil one, penzoil and stp high miliage compared to the Valvoline? Valvoline first. Stp second, Mobil one third and Penzoil dead last. Never buy that oil again. Miliage is up a tab to like .3 or 4. Easy on these trucks to gauge mpg they get what they get and I drove basically the same rt everyday.

 

[buster]

The 10w30 R&P should have a low Noack.

 

[KnappAttak]

There is no 10w-30 Restore & Protect... Not sure where this comes from as Valvoline doesn't even have it on their website anywhere.
5w-30 is the only 30 weight oil in the Restore & Protect lineup.
I wished they would do a 0W-40....

 

[buster]

There is no 10w-30 Restore & Protect... Not sure where this comes from as Valvoline doesn't even have it on their website anywhere.
5w-30 is the only 30 weight oil in the Restore & Protect lineup.
I wished they would do a 0W-40....

Yes they do it's just not out yet. I posted the PDS.

 

[KnappAttak]

Yes they do it's just not out yet. I posted the PDS.

Good to see expansion in the Restore & Protect lineup.

Perhaps we'll see the Euro viscosity of 0-40 yet... One can hope anyway. I'd feel a lot better about running a 0-40 in the Audi over the 5-30.

 

[BrendanC]

So I bit the bullet and bought this for my 99 tahoe. Always burned a little bit of oil in 1000 miles. Like a quart. Noticed with this oil I'm at around 1600 miles at a quart. I used the penzoil. I didn't like it. Up to temp oil pressure was the same as 4k oil ready to change. 5w-30 and cold temp was lower then even autozone stp oil. Between Mobil one, penzoil and stp high miliage compared to the Valvoline? Valvoline first. Stp second, Mobil one third and Penzoil dead last. Never buy that oil again. Miliage is up a tab to like .3 or 4. Easy on these trucks to gauge mpg they get what they get and I drove basically the same rt everyday.

LS motors love valvoline. no one else ever believes me.

 

[Four Rings]

Yes they do it's just not out yet. I posted the PDS.

FWIW, VR&P 10W-40 is available in New Zealand, currently.

https://www.valvolineglobal.com/en-nz/restore-protect-synthetic-engine-oil-10w-40/

 

[Mewbs]

I did an oil change on a friends kia rio yesterday and got this oil. We both sniff the jug and HPL and she noted the HPL has a sweet smell whereas the Vavoline RP smells like any other new motor oil.

Giving her my best shot to tackle her oil consumption issues so im looking forward to seeing how much of deposits cleared in her car fill hole.

View attachment 226623

Following up with this, she came yesterday for a PCV valve swap. She drove 970 miles since the change and her dipstick level hasnt gone down much. I did topped off with another half quart of HPL EC so now it has 3.5 quarts of VRP with 1 quart of EC 30.

Took some shots of her fill port as a baseline reference.