Valvoline Restore & Protect

I might have to try this on one of my vehicles...

I looked in the oil fill hole of both my vehicles, something I have never done before. The 2008 Civic (1.8 liter, 97K miles) looked spotless - no varnish or sludge, and I could see the timing chain and into the valve train. It has had a steady diet of M1 since new, and the last few years it has averaged around 9K mile OCI. I will probably decrease this in the future unless I am using M1 EP (which is slated for the next oil change, I have the jug in my garage).

The 2005 Sienna (3.3 liter V6, 147K miles), on the other hand, has a layer of grainy sludge on some sort of "shelf" just under the oil fill cap. It is a thin layer, but it is there. I cannot see inside past this shelf since the clearances around this shelf that would allow oil to drain down into the valve train are quite small, too small for a flathead screwdriver to fit. I am left to wonder what it looks like inside - is it all like this, or is it just this spot where oil likely cannot splash onto from the valve train when the engine is running? The valve cover gasket was replaced a couple of months ago, and the mechanic made no mention of a dirty valve train. I'll call the shop, but at this point the mechanic who did it likely won't remember. I would think if it were really bad they would have offered a service at cost to clean it. They did clean off the oil that had leaked out onto the head and the block, and that wasn't all that extensive.

It has averaged about 8,700 mi OCI in recent years. I used M1 since it was new until a few years ago when there was no M1 5W-30 on the shelf at Wallies when I bought oil (I typically don't stock up, and buy when I need oil), so I got PP and have used it since then. My Wallies rarely has M1 5W-30 for some reason, but it always has PP.

After the warranties expired I have used Fram Ultra and more recently Fram Endurance in both vehicles, replacing the filter at each oil change. Neither car is driven hard, though the ratio of short to long trips does change from time to time.
 
I'm running Valvoline R&P 5W30 in my 2013 Volvo with a T5 engine. I put this in at 135K miles and have driven around 2700 miles so far (will be changing the oil at 140K). What I can see is the amber varnish that was on the dipstick was completely gone after 1500 or so miles and the baked on carbon that's on both sides of the stick where it bends is about 75% gone. So it appears to be doing something. No change in oil consumption (around half a quart so far) and the mileage is same as its been and the oil is not particularly dark or unusual looking at this mileage. These Volvo's have a known ring clogging issue so hoping this cleans out the insides and lowers the oil consumption a bit.
 
I'm running Valvoline R&P 5W30 in my 2013 Volvo with a T5 engine. I put this in at 135K miles and have driven around 2700 miles so far (will be changing the oil at 140K). What I can see is the amber varnish that was on the dipstick was completely gone after 1500 or so miles and the baked on carbon that's on both sides of the stick where it bends is about 75% gone. So it appears to be doing something. No change in oil consumption (around half a quart so far) and the mileage is same as its been and the oil is not particularly dark or unusual looking at this mileage. These Volvo's have a known ring clogging issue so hoping this cleans out the insides and lowers the oil consumption a bit.

I'm using it in my 14 T5 right now too. I had consumption of around 1 quart in 4000 miles. I'm too early to know how it's going re consumption. My hunch tells me it's helping, but I need to reach more mileage to know what change there has been.

I didn't' really have any deposits in areas I could see, so I can't test that. At around 1500 miles, the oil doesn't look dirtier than Mobil 1 0w40 did.
 
I'm using it in my 14 T5 right now too. I had consumption of around 1 quart in 4000 miles. I'm too early to know how it's going re consumption. My hunch tells me it's helping, but I need to reach more mileage to know what change there has been.

I didn't' really have any deposits in areas I could see, so I can't test that. At around 1500 miles, the oil doesn't look dirtier than Mobil 1 0w40 did.
1 quart in 4000 miles is really good! I’ve seen them burn that in less than 1000 miles.
 
I’m at 2,500 miles on the R&P, 2019 Silverado Custom 4.3 currently at 72,000 miles. Oil level is down about 1/4 qt, with a tiny bit of varnish on the tip of the dipstick, about the same amount as when I changed the oil over to the R&P. In other words, no real visible change of the slight amount of varnish. I am wondering if the oil level being down this small mostly insignificant amount might be a sign that the 4.3 DI V6 might need a bit of cleaning and to stave off any carbon buildup that might have been in it’s future. IDK but I’m planning on doing the 4 OCI’s as recommended by Valvoline and closely monitoring the oil usage.
 
I’m at 2,500 miles on the R&P, 2019 Silverado Custom 4.3 currently at 72,000 miles. Oil level is down about 1/4 qt, with a tiny bit of varnish on the tip of the dipstick, about the same amount as when I changed the oil over to the R&P. In other words, no real visible change. I am wondering if the oil level being down this small mostly insignificant amount might be a sign that the 4.3 DI V6 might need a bit of cleaning and to stave off any carbon buildup that might have been in it’s future. IDK but I’m planning on doing the 4 OCI’s as recommended by Valvoline and closely monitoring the oil usage.
It really depends on the condition of the engine. An engine with significant buildup may need a full 4 OCI's. They had to make the oil clean/dissolve in a slow, controlled manner to avoid overloading the filter.

As far as varnish goes, if not enough oil is coming in contact with certain areas of the engine, it won't remove anything.
 
Have R&P 5w30 in my Element to try and finish removing the varnish from the valve train for the past 1k miles. No real difference on the cam lobes thru the fill hole but did have some varnish come off the dipstick when I wiped it. The dipstick is varnished at the valve train area and I was curious if it would help this at all, it did a bit. Have noticed the noisy k24 is a tad quieter, i know people say you are hearing things but this motor is smoother.
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IT IS EVIL STOP USING IT

oh wait, that was the consensus in the first 100 posts on this thread, so I mean

IT IS ALL MARKETING,

no, wait, that was post 02-200, many of which were deleted as they should have been {and many of them were mine ;) }
 
I am trying this in my 2003 Toyota Avalon. I did the valve cover gaskets about 6000 miles ago and noticed some varnish, but essentally no sludge. Unfortunately, I didn’t think to take a picture. There was a little crud on the oil fill baffle. As the 1mzfe engine is a little prone to sludge, and I hope that I will get at least another decade out of this car, I thought that this stuff might gently clean anything that does exist over the course of multiple oil changes.

Just a note: I have been maintaining this car since new. I drove my uncle to the dealership to by it when I was still a teenager. I inherited it after he passed. Been a good car.
 
Finally got to look at my brother's 2009 versa. It's been 3 months and about 1000 miles since I put 5w30 Valvoline R&P. Noticed more difference early on in the fill hole. But if you look closely, the sludge seems to be separating more now in the most recent pic of the fill hole. I expect it is still working. The dip stick varnish has cleaned up some on each side as well.

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The 2005 Sienna (3.3 liter V6, 147K miles), on the other hand, has a layer of grainy sludge on some sort of "shelf" just under the oil fill cap. It is a thin layer, but it is there. I cannot see inside past this shelf since the clearances around this shelf that would allow oil to drain down into the valve train are quite small, too small for a flathead screwdriver to fit. I am left to wonder what it looks like inside - is it all like this, or is it just this spot where oil likely cannot splash onto from the valve train when the engine is running? The valve cover gasket was replaced a couple of months ago, and the mechanic made no mention of a dirty valve train. I'll call the shop, but at this point the mechanic who did it likely won't remember. I would think if it were really bad they would have offered a service at cost to clean it. They did clean off the oil that had leaked out onto the head and the block, and that wasn't all that extensive.
This is something that apparently fools many people. That coating is supposed to be there, it isn’t “sludge” nor is it abnormal. Several threads on this here as well as the Internet in general. It is a factory coating.

Don’t remove it and no oil is going to clean it off either. Here is one thread, there are others:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...-fill-cap-used-2015-toyota-highlander.378927/
 
This is something that apparently fools many people. That coating is supposed to be there, it isn’t “sludge” nor is it abnormal. Several threads on this here as well as the Internet in general. It is a factory coating.

Don’t remove it and no oil is going to clean it off either. Here is one thread, there are others:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...-fill-cap-used-2015-toyota-highlander.378927/
Must be a toyota thing? I've never seen this coating on amy other cars I've serviced but I have never owned or worked on a Toyota engine. But I have worked on many other Japanese, American, and German makes and never saw this.
 
This is something that apparently fools many people. That coating is supposed to be there, it isn’t “sludge” nor is it abnormal. Several threads on this here as well as the Internet in general. It is a factory coating.

Don’t remove it and no oil is going to clean it off either. Here is one thread, there are others:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...-fill-cap-used-2015-toyota-highlander.378927/

Thanks for the link.

I called the mechanic, and I was told that the only time that baffle sees oil is when I fill. The oil film just sits there and bakes from then on. Maybe there is a coating, but there is a thin layer of sludge - it was extremely easy to remove with a screwdriver. It definitely was sludge. I didn't do much, just enough to tell whether or not it was sludge.

The mechanic further assured me that if they had seen sludge in the valve train (they replaced the valve cover gasket and manifold gasket) they would have offered a cleaning service.
 
Thanks for the link.

I called the mechanic, and I was told that the only time that baffle sees oil is when I fill. The oil film just sits there and bakes from then on. Maybe there is a coating, but there is a thin layer of sludge - it was extremely easy to remove with a screwdriver. It definitely was sludge. I didn't do much, just enough to tell whether or not it was sludge.

The mechanic further assured me that if they had seen sludge in the valve train (they replaced the valve cover gasket and manifold gasket) they would have offered a cleaning service.
That’s not it. It’s not sludge and yes you can scrape it off. The mechanic doesn’t know what he’s talking about.
 
Finally got to look at my brother's 2009 versa. It's been 3 months and about 1000 miles since I put 5w30 Valvoline R&P. Noticed more difference early on in the fill hole. But if you look closely, the sludge seems to be separating more now in the most recent pic of the fill hole. I expect it is still working. The dip stick varnish has cleaned up some on each side as well.

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Seems to be working!
 
Finally got to look at my brother's 2009 versa. It's been 3 months and about 1000 miles since I put 5w30 Valvoline R&P. Noticed more difference early on in the fill hole. But if you look closely, the sludge seems to be separating more now in the most recent pic of the fill hole. I expect it is still working. The dip stick varnish has cleaned up some on each side as well.

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Looks like the sludge layering in the last 7/16 pic fill port is starting to show some emulsifying, where as picture before shows it pretty baked in. interesting progress.
 
Looks like the sludge layering in the last 7/16 pic fill port is starting to show some emulsifying, where as picture before shows it pretty baked in. interesting progress.
Agreed. It's been. Right around 1000 miles over the last 2 months or so.
 
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First 5000 miles completed in the BMW X5. There has been no change in the varnish on the cylinder head from what I can see. There is a small amount of particulate matter in between the filter pleats. But, I’ve seen this with just normal oil changes as well.

Nothing significant.

Refilled with 7 quarts of R&P for the next 5000 miles.

I’ll check back in if anything interesting happens.
 
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