Using SuperTech full synthetic vs name brands

It seems to me that the Mobil1 advertising budget must get passed on to us as the consumers.
Kirkland doesn't advertise, comes only is 2 jug boxes and is sold on line or in a warehouse. Might even be a loss leader; dunno.
I use all the oils. All good.
I think Costco is known to dump to get you buying something else …
Advertising can be offset by what majors save in base stock costs and transportation, owning ad-pack companies …
Some also consider who they want to support in the long haul … Costco is not a vertically integrated energy company … Nor a well established formulator … that’s my choice in the long haul.
 
That is a good deal....

I'd run a TGDI for sure... And a 5w30 makes sense.

I bet you are no slouch on the go pedal leaving from a stop light with that motor.
Mustang 2.3L ecoboost - runs pretty good, yes …
 
Maybe I'm a fool but I don't see SuperTech Synthetic as equivalent to M1 Advanced. It's stats match up better with Pennzoil Gold Blend Dexos and Mobil Super Synthetic. Nothing wrong with that. It's a perfectly adequate oil for 10,000 mi OCI in the 3.7L V6 in the MKX.

That doesn't mean I'm down on ST and up on M1. I don't think M1 Advanced is the equal of PUP either.
 
Just like batteries... They don't last as long in Brownsville Texas as they do in Duluth Minnesota... The heat in Texas kills batteries... Up north the cooler temps seen helps them last longer...

Are you kidding? Your lucky to get 3 years from a battery in Duluth. Extreme cold and trying to start in -30F takes it's toll in the cold. I know, I lived across the river in Superior, WI. I get 5 to 6 years on a battery in SC.

Remember... Ford recommended 5w20... In the owners manual... Only to change that later to 5w30 becaue there were problems with the 5w20.

Only on a couple of engine families.
 
Well batteries do last longer up north on average. Most every battery site page I have seen that shows a climatology map of the continental US and the battery life is typically higher up north vs south Texas.


If your battery was having issues... Maybe the real problem was too low of a CCA battery was in there to begin with... The reason for CCA is that it is measured at 0°F. In my car with a minimum 550 CCA... I could start my car down to -30°F. And if I do what should be done... And live where it gets that cold... I'd buy a group 35 640 CCA battery or even better a group 24F with 725 CCA to make sure I have enough cold cranking amps at -30 or even potentially -40°F. Therefore making it easier on my battery and my starter in my car due to having a better higher CCA battery in my car to begin with. Not just going with the minimum 550 CCA battery. Or maybe the alternator in your vehicle was a real issue there. Or a parasitic draw.


Extreme cold can shorten battery life to a degree. Though on average... Batteries up north tend to hold up longer than in hotter climate.

And yeah.. the selective motors don't matter....

They still had to change the viscosity... The 5w20 did not work well... Thus why Ford changed it.

I ran the 5w20 called for in my manual in my 08 Ford Fusion... It was the SEL Fusion with the 3.0 L motor.
 
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I will say though I would not mind buying a car with a TGDI motor... They are now better than they were at first.

Have to be fun to drive on a regular basis I'd bet.
My 2019 2.0L TGDI Jeep Cherokee is a serious blast to drive, and the manual recommends synthetic 5W-30.
 
5K for me even though i've seen excellent 8-10K mile UOA using VW508. You're right, nothing tangible, just my comfort zone and i know it's irrational.
I feel the same way. I like 5k I know the oil in using could go to 10k .QSUD. also I like doing it
 
Well batteries do last longer up north on average. Most every battery site page I have seen that shows a climatology map of the continental US and the battery life is typically higher up north vs south Texas.


If your battery was having issues... Maybe the real problem was too low of a CCA battery was in there to begin with... The reason for CCA is that it is measured at 0°F. In my car with a minimum 550 CCA... I could start my car down to -30°F. And if I do what should be done... And live where it gets that cold... I'd buy a group 35 640 CCA battery or even better a group 24F with 725 CCA to make sure I have enough cold cranking amps at -30 or even potentially -40°F. Therefore making it easier on my battery and my starter in my car due to having a better higher CCA battery in my car to begin with. Not just going with the minimum 550 CCA battery. Or maybe the alternator in your vehicle was a real issue there. Or a parasitic draw.


Extreme cold can shorten battery life to a degree. Though on average... Batteries up north tend to hold up longer than in hotter climate.

And yeah.. the selective motors don't matter....

They still had to change the viscosity... The 5w20 did not work well... Thus why Ford changed it.

I ran the 5w20 called for in my manual in my 08 Ford Fusion... It was the SEL Fusion with the 3.0 L motor.

Actually it works the other way around. To get higher cranking amps they have to put more lead in the batteries reducing room between the plates. This results in a shorter life span. If you don't have a specific need for the higher cranking amps go with the lower to increase service life.
 
Here is perhaps a slightly different take on this. (Maybe someone already brought this up, I didn't read all 94 posts, only maybe half of them).
I live in a small town with a small, locally owned Napa store. Napa has some pretty good deals on oil through the end of August; Napa and Castrol. It makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside to spend maybe a couple extra bucks and support them versus giving my money to the giant WM.
I am not critical of those that do. I've bought a lot of oil from Wal-Mart over the years. But with the deals at Napa right now, I'm going to stock up and add to my stash a bit before the end of the month.
 
Here is perhaps a slightly different take on this. (Maybe someone already brought this up, I didn't read all 94 posts, only maybe half of them).
I live in a small town with a small, locally owned Napa store. Napa has some pretty good deals on oil through the end of August; Napa and Castrol. It makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside to spend maybe a couple extra bucks and support them versus giving my money to the giant WM.
I am not critical of those that do. I've bought a lot of oil from Wal-Mart over the years. But with the deals at Napa right now, I'm going to stock up and add to my stash a bit before the end of the month.
Well said.
 
Actually it works the other way around. To get higher cranking amps they have to put more lead in the batteries reducing room between the plates. This results in a shorter life span. If you don't have a specific need for the higher cranking amps go with the lower to increase service life.

If you are talking about run of the mill batteries... You would be correct.

However it is in fact the other way around... 180 degrees in fact as it relates to Thin Plate Pure Lead batteries...

Those batteries have far more weight in the same exact BCI size... It leads to more CCA and reserve capacity by a wide margin over typical AGMs and flooded battery. .


That TPPL AGM made by Northstar or the X-2 TPPL AGM battery which is made by Northstar at Batteries Plus has a. ... 5 years free replacement warranty... longer than any other battery...

For good reason.... Those batteries are far better built vs the regular flooded and AGM batteries.

These TPPL AGM batteries are true Deep Cycle batteries that can also be used as a starter battery as well.



But the Northstar AGM TPPL deep cycle/starter batteries are another animal all together.


And in places where it gets down to -40°C.... A battery that has a 840 CCA rating at 0°F... Will be far stronger at -40 vs one that is 550 CCA at 0°F. .. . It takes roughly 150-200 amps to start most cars with a good starter. The colder it get obviously a battery loses starting power and the vehicle needs more starting power... The drop off from say a 550 CCA battery would probably still start my car at -30°F... Though not very easily. Give me the Northstar AGM TPPL group 35 with 840 CCA that weighs 46 pounds over a East Penn group 35 with only 550 CCA and weighs 34 pounds at -40°F.... Everyday and twice on Sunday. .
 
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Other way around... 180 degrees in fact as it relates to Thin Plate Pure Lead batteries...

Those batteries have far more weight in the same exact BCI size... It leads to more CCA and reserve capacity by a wide margin over typical AGMs and flooded battery. .


That TPPL AGM made by Northstar or the X-2 TPPL AGM battery which is made by Northstar at Batteries Plus has a. ... 5 years free replacement warranty... longer than any other battery...

For good reason.... Those batteries are far better built vs the regular flooded and AGM batteries.


If you want to talk about typical run of the mill flooded batteries.... Then what you say could possibly be true.


But the Northstar AGM TPPL batteries are another animal all together.


And in places where it gets down to -40°C.... A battery that has a 840 CCA rating at 0°F... Will be far stronger at -40 vs one that is 550 CCA at 0°F. .. . It takes roughly 150-180 amps to start most cars with a good starter. The colder it get obviously a battery loses starting power and the vehicle needs more starting power... Give me the Northstar AGM TPPL group 35 with 840 CCA that weighs 46 pounds over a East Penn group 35 with only 550 CCA and weighs 34 pounds at -40°F.... Everyday and twice on Sunday. .

Missed the first paragraph. I was indeed referring to run of the mill lead plate batteries like the ones I use in my trucks. I have gotten as long as 6 years out of a set of 875 Amp Batteries. Never anything close out of the high CCA batteries.
 
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