Used Titan w/98k miles, what would you do?

[brandonandsue]

Just bought a 2004 2wd Nissan Titan with 98k miles. The previous owner says (for what it's worth) the oil was changed regularly with Castrol GTX 5w30. There is a sticker in the corner listing the previous oil change at 97k. I'm going to change the oil at 100k (only 1k away) and wanted to know what you would do. This is basically my weekend vehicle, I've got a 96 Neon to drive back and forth to work. I'm guessing I'll put somewhere in the neighborhood of 6k-8k miles a year on this vehicle. It hasn't towed anything substancial, as it doesn't have a hitch receiver.

Would you continue to use GTX 5w30? (I was thinking of switching over to syntheic Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra and getting on the 7500 mile OCI, or once a year whichever comes first, instead of 3k-4k)

Would you run any type of cleaner through it, such as Seafoam or AutoRX? (it runs fine, but I'm thinking it could run a little better. For example, when I first start it up, it sounds like it will almost die for a split second, then catch and run fine, if that makes sense)

I'm definitely going to change the plugs soon, no later than 105k.

Let me know your thoughts, or if you need more info to comment. Thanks for your input.

 

[demarpaint]

If it were mine, I'd add a pint of MMO now until you change the oil. Then I'd run a dino oil like PYB or GTX with a qt of MMO for a 3000 mile OCI. Once that's done, change over to your favorite synthetic oil as you mentioned above. MMO is cheap, has a great track record and can be bought just about anywhere. JMO

 

[SrDriver]

+1 on the MMO.

 

[sasilverbullet]

I own a 04 Titan w/70K on it. Here's my recommendations:
1. Change the plugs right away, don't scrimp, get good ones. She should start without a burp.
2. Change the rear end fluid and put in some good quality syn lube. This year was bad about fillings in the oil.
3. Change the oil/filter right away and put in a good syn. (I run Amsoil European forumala 10w-40 in it - have since I bought it new.) I run 7K OCI with that oil, and that's with some trailer towing mixed in.
4. Just run a can of Chevron's fuel additive along with a tank of premium.

Other than that, enjoy the awesome truck!

 

[maersk]

Keep using?! Castrol?!
[censored] no.

 

[HTSS_TR]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
If it were mine, I'd add a pint of MMO now until you change the oil. Then I'd run a dino oil like PYB or GTX with a qt of MMO for a 3000 mile OCI. Once that's done, change over to your favorite synthetic oil as you mentioned above. MMO is cheap, has a great track record and can be bought just about anywhere. JMO

I agree with the above. Also the plugs, fuel filter, trans and gear fluid, power steering fluid, brake fluid and coolant fluid.

 

[ThirdeYe]

This is just what I would do... you can do what you wish.

I would change it every 6 months with a quality oil. If the miles are put on during mostly cold months, I would be more apt to use a synthetic like I did in my car over the winter. Had a 6 month OCI with Valvoline SynPower that was put on during September-March. Put on around 3,000-3,500 miles in that time period, but I felt more comfortable using a synthetic in the winter.

 

[SLCraig]

Originally Posted By: maersk
Keep using?! Castrol?!
[censored] no.


Meh there's nothing wrong with Castrol. Presumably this truck does not have any known issues, showing the oil is doing its job.

 

[Striker]

Are you guys suggesting MMO in the oil mix, or in the gas?

 

[cheetahdriver]

They are suggesting it in the gas, which I believe is a mistake.

The VK series engines (to my experience) perform somewhat better on a slightly heavier oil. I would recommend a HDEO, something like RotellaT6 or M1 TDT. With your usage profile, I would replace now (along with all the other fluids, that is very good advice) and then replace every 10k or 5yrs, whichever comes first. The first change might do at 5k since you will be cleaning out all the GTX gunk.

 

[hate2work]

Originally Posted By: cheetahdriver
They are suggesting it in the gas, which I believe is a mistake.



No they're not, they're suggesting the OP use MMO in the oil.

I think that's a good idea, except I would suggest draing out a full quart of oil and replacing it with a quart of MMO. One pint of MMO run for 1k miles isn't going to do much. Since the sump holds 6.5 quarts, replace an entire quart with MMO for the last 1k and you might get some cleaning done. That's what I did recently with my Tacoma and it stopped some cold lifter tick.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: Striker
Are you guys suggesting MMO in the oil mix, or in the gas?


In both would be a good idea.

 

[caravanmike]

don't forget the auto trans cHange.

 

[brandonandsue]

Thanks for the info, I'll plan on changing all of the fluids as soon as possible.

As far as the MMO, would it be advisable to run it in each oil change going forward, possibly with 1 quart MMO and 5.5 quarts of Rotella T6, since it wouldn't thin the 40w as much as it would a 30w oil, or is the suggestion just a 1 time deal?

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: brandonandsue
Thanks for the info, I'll plan on changing all of the fluids as soon as possible.

As far as the MMO, would it be advisable to run it in each oil change going forward, possibly with 1 quart MMO and 5.5 quarts of Rotella T6, since it wouldn't thin the 40w as much as it would a 30w oil, or is the suggestion just a 1 time deal?


No need to use MMO all the time. I'd use it once a year for the winter OCI. It will keep the engine clean and aid in cold starts. Enjoy the vehicle!

 

[ltslimjim]

My friend has the 2006(flex fuel) and does towing/heavy loads from time to time. He has an entire Injen air intake kit, throttle spacer, Power Programmer(programmed for 93 octane, he runs E-85 for best 'performance'), and custom true dual exhaust with Magnaflows.

All in all, he probably has close to 100 more HP/100-150+ ft/lbs of torque over stock, easy.

He uses Royal Purple 5w-30 and a RP filter for 7,500 OCI. He doesn't mind paying extra, but just relating his experience. Before this he did 4K mile intervals with Valvoline Syn Power.

No UOA and he hasn't removed the covers to look at either head, FWIW. Still driving great. Over 100K as well, IIRC.