What would you do to clean this engine?

If it were something I were working on the first I would do pull the L/side valve cover (front of the car) and depending on how that looks clean it by soaking overnight in parts and carb cleaner or if not too bad clean with spray carb cleaner and replace the PCV valve.
The valve cover has baffle under it with small holes that bring the blow-by to the very small pcv. Any clogging in this system can lead to deposits and varnish like the ones you see. This is the PCV for that engine and a very clogged valve cover baffle.

PCV.webp

SAM_0101.webp
 
I'd change the oil with any brand name oil that's currently on sale and add a cup of engine oil flush before running the engine at idle for about 20 minutes. Then, I'd perform another oil change with your oil of choice. (I like Valvoline Synpower 5w40 (YMMV)). Anyhow, I did this just the other day on a fairly clean Toyota engine (150,000 miles old with about 50 oil changes in its life) and the oil came out black after only 20 minutes. I was somewhat surprised.
 
Apollo, you do know that's an interference engine with a belt that needs replaced after 100 k miles?

There's a long laundry list of preventative maintance at that mileage if it has not been done yet.

Valve adjustment

Both O2 sensors. If they get too bad the engine will run rich and destroy the cats, and they ain't cheap. After 100 k they are worn out.

Coolant drain and fill with Honda premixed ( don't flush )

While your at it, if funds permit, new Radiator, engine and Radiator temperature sensors, thermostat, maybe even new hoses and clamps

New serpentine and tensioner

Air filters engine and cabin

Clean throttle body plate and area around it, and air sensors

Trany fluid and filter

Brake fluid

Trany fluid and filter

Knock sensor, if it totally wears out, the engine will run so lean that it gets destroyed. Only oem for this part.

Clean away paint below ground wire to frame mount, clean lug, put corrosion protection on both, clean battery terminals and post, check battery

Original wiper blades if needed

Hunter alignment

---------------------

After a complete going over like that, it should be good for another 100 k miles.

Most areas have one honda dealer who participates in buying parts online and picking them up at dealer. Cheaphindaparts.com is one such web site.

Ask local Honda dealers if they participate and what site. There are considerable savings to be had
 
Last edited:
wareze said:
Does the high mileage version have extra cleaning property or something compared the regular EP?
Click to expand...
I can’t say for sure other than the fact that Mobil 1 claims that EP HM can remove sludge in one OCI but they make no mention of that with the non HM version of EP.
 
Patman said:
I can’t say for sure other than the fact that Mobil 1 claims that EP HM can remove sludge in one OCI but they make no mention of that with the non HM version of EP.
Click to expand...
It says it on the back of the non ep version too

Screenshot_20241225_192529_Chrome.webp
 
Trav said:
If it were something I were working on the first I would do pull the L/side valve cover (front of the car) and depending on how that looks clean it by soaking overnight in parts and carb cleaner or if not too bad clean with spray carb cleaner and replace the PCV valve.
The valve cover has baffle under it with small holes that bring the blow-by to the very small pcv. Any clogging in this system can lead to deposits and varnish like the ones you see. This is the PCV for that engine and a very clogged valve cover baffle.

View attachment 255679
View attachment 255680
Click to expand...
@Trav -What does that look like when clean and where does the PCV reside in relation?
 
Last edited:
@apollo18 - What is your plans or intended usage patterns? Will this be a short trip, all around town, barely getting warm, daily driver like my wife's '19 Pilot? Will yours be doing some nicer highway runs, longer commute daily?

The M1 AFE 0W-20 in my wife's Pilot with all the short trips didn't hold up to well to the ~7500k MM. I haven't had the PP Euro-L 5W-30 tested yet but that might be on the list at next oil change at lower mileage OCI also.

Oil recommendations will vary for brands and cleaning ability as well as run the spec'd 0W-20 to the love 'em thicker 5W-30 or 0W-40. Maybe a UOA on yours will give you some insight and let you adjust from there.

The small stuff inside the cap I wouldn't worry as much about because of temperatures and no oil actually touching that. My cars have that including my sons Forte that I posted valve cover off pics and it being very clean.
 
Merek said:
Honestly it's a Honda so it will practically run forever on just about anything. I just changed the oil in Mom's Accord w/ k24 and used R&P 5w20 and an Extraguard ph9688 filter, the oil life meter still had 15% remaining so I figured the orange can would do just fine as it's rated for 10k miles.
Click to expand...
What year Accord? The 9688 is about 1/3" wider but also 1/3" shorter than the 7317's. What that equates to as a difference in total amount of filter media or oil capacity, I couldn't tell you.

The 9688 is spec'd for my sons Forte. When I tried a wider filter (Honda 15400-PCX-004) on my the two K24's ('08 CRV, '17 Accord) it was too wide. The filter cap for the PCX also fits the stock Kia/Hyundai filter so can't be far from the 9688.

I question the Honda practically run forever especially in light of bearing recalls.
 
Sequoiasoon said:
@apollo18 - What is your plans or intended usage patterns? Will this be a short trip, all around town, barely getting warm, daily driver like my wife's '19 Pilot? Will yours be doing some nicer highway runs, longer commute daily?

The M1 AFE 0W-20 in my wife's Pilot with all the short trips didn't hold up to well to the ~7500k MM. I haven't had the PP Euro-L 5W-30 tested yet but that might be on the list at next oil change at lower mileage OCI also.

Oil recommendations will vary for brands and cleaning ability as well as run the spec'd 0W-20 to the love 'em thicker 5W-30 or 0W-40. Maybe a UOA on yours will give you some insight and let you adjust from there.

The small stuff inside the cap I wouldn't worry as much about because of temperatures and no oil actually touching that. My cars have that including my sons Forte that I posted valve cover off pics and it being very clean.
Click to expand...
i think we can expect a 20 min commute at the minimum daily! with maybe 1-2 short in between
 
JimPghPA said:
Apollo, you do know that's an interference engine with a belt that needs replaced after 100 k miles?

There's a long laundry list of preventative maintance at that mileage if it has not been done yet.

Valve adjustment

Both O2 sensors. If they get too bad the engine will run rich and destroy the cats, and they ain't cheap. After 100 k they are worn out.

Coolant drain and fill with Honda premixed ( don't flush )

While your at it, if funds permit, new Radiator, engine and Radiator temperature sensors, thermostat, maybe even new hoses and clamps

New serpentine and tensioner

Air filters engine and cabin

Clean throttle body plate and area around it, and air sensors

Trany fluid and filter

Brake fluid

Trany fluid and filter

Knock sensor, if it totally wears out, the engine will run so lean that it gets destroyed. Only oem for this part.

Clean away paint below ground wire to frame mount, clean lug, put corrosion protection on both, clean battery terminals and post, check battery

Original wiper blades if needed

Hunter alignment

---------------------

After a complete going over like that, it should be good for another 100 k miles.

Most areas have one honda dealer who participates in buying parts online and picking them up at dealer. Cheaphindaparts.com is one such web site.

Ask local Honda dealers if they participate and what site. There are considerable savings to be had
Click to expand...
thanks soo much for in depth reply, been working on a bunch of those in this list but this is a good list for sure
 
Sequoiasoon said:
What year Accord? The 9688 is about 1/3" wider but also 1/3" shorter than the 7317's. What that equates to as a difference in total amount of filter media or oil capacity, I couldn't tell you.

The 9688 is spec'd for my sons Forte. When I tried a wider filter (Honda 15400-PCX-004) on my the two K24's ('08 CRV, '17 Accord) it was too wide. The filter cap for the PCX also fits the stock Kia/Hyundai filter so can't be far from the 9688.

I question the Honda practically run forever especially in light of bearing recalls.
Click to expand...
Her car is a 2013-2014 model. Fram has largely superceded their filters with the 9688. Yes the diameter makes it a bit snug with the oil pan but it fit just fine. In the old days there were 2 filters you had the normal one which was tiny but then everyone else called the larger the s2000 filter. I have 2x 6th Gen Civic's and Fram calls for 3593a on one but 7317 for the other... same engine.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

cammyfive79
VRP: what tests/evidence would convince you one way or another?
2 3
Replies
40
Views
3K
Mainia
A
2014 Acura rdx 120k miles what service to do?
Replies
5
Views
439
GON
A
Can I reuse my OEM shock parts rather then the KYB small parts?
Replies
6
Views
374
apollo18
A
Is this too much wobble / play in serp/drive belt pulley area?
Replies
14
Views
486
someonesomewhere
W
Help cleaning engine in recently purchased F150
Replies
19
Views
1K
meep
Back
Top Bottom