What would you do?

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Originally Posted By: Linctex
THE FIRST THING you NEED to do is change out those RIDICULOUSLY HUGE valve springs you put in it!


Yeh, and replace that daft-and-destructive mini-spool thing with a split handbrake (That was you, wasn't it?)

And paint your diff case, say, green.

Oh wait, you didn't ask about that....
 
Originally Posted By: toneydoc
option 5 that oil is still really good for a long time


Amsoil recommends a 1000 mile max interval with this oil and the tbn is only 0.45....

Something else to keep in mind is that the truck gets nearly zero miles since it is a yard truck only. 100 miles in a year is a BIG year, so I can't go by miles. Even 500 miles would take me several years. I go through about 100 gallons of fuel a year usually, but hardly any miles.

Originally Posted By: Eddie
+1 I vote for #5. You have an oil filter to protect and are using an exceptionally good break-in oil. Don't waste it and substitute a lesser oil to continue the break-in. Ed


If not for the cold I might have done that. But I went for the cold change and tightened the header bolts while it drained. I'm glad I did after seeing what came out.



All the swirls in the oil were shiny and the oil in the pan glittered in the light. Also, this pic was taken after dumping from the red pan and walking away for over a minute. This stuff was so thick that it wouldn't even flow into the drain holes of the drain pan!

I'm glad I changed it out. And the new oil has plenty of additive to take over.

Originally Posted By: Linctex
THE FIRST THING you NEED to do is change out those RIDICULOUSLY HUGE valve springs you put in it!


Maybe I didn't report back, the springs are only a few pounds heavier than the Z28 springs once calculated for the correct installed height. So not as bad as initially thought.

Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: Linctex
THE FIRST THING you NEED to do is change out those RIDICULOUSLY HUGE valve springs you put in it!


Yeh, and replace that daft-and-destructive mini-spool thing with a split handbrake (That was you, wasn't it?)

And paint your diff case, say, green.

Oh wait, you didn't ask about that....


Nope... not me. Factory G80 gov-lock on board here....
 
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You think all that came off the camshaft and tappets?

Seems a lot, and possible there might be other issues with your new-to-you engine, though I've never had a new camshaft so what do I know?

MIGHT be informative to stick a magnet in the sludge. IF a lot of it is non-magnetic (i.e. Aluminium) it presumably isn't from the cams.

OTOH other than running fairly short OCI with HDEO I'm not sure what you could reasonably do about it anyway.

I might put something a bit cheaper than Amsoil in initially though.
 
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I'd do 1 or 2. Let it drain overnight if need be. If the oil is warm enough to flow at all, it'll almost all drain out (minus the filter). I'd leave the filter in place and just refill with 0W-40 and cruise on from there.

Why overthink this? If the cam is bad, it'll die on it's own... If it's good, it is well broken in by now.

I don't know how you define "high idle"? But a FT cam break-in needs more than 2,400 RPM to be well lubed during the first 15 minutes... Less than that and you are not slinging enough oil off the crank to do much good.

Sounds like it might have lived ...

But the metallics worry me
frown.gif


The color might be assembly lube and skirt metal, so maybe it's OK...

One way to tell if it's teh cam - pull the valve covers one at a time. Run the motor. If the push-rods are all spinning the same speed, you are good. If one is slow or herky-jerky - the cam is done ...

If it's shedding Fe metals, they are magnetic - test them.

The issue is not the cam, if it's going it's already done... It's where the shed metals go - all throughout the engine. The bearings and mostly the piston skirts which wipe the bores. Piston skirts are sling lubed w/o filtered oil, so that stuff gets up between the skirt and the cylinder walls and it wears really fast. Usually long score marks and loss of compression ...
 
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One way to test for a cam is to pull the valve covers (one at a time) and start the engine. See if the push rods are all spinning the same speed? If one is slow or herky-jerky, the cam is gone ...
 
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