Upcoming 0W5 Grade Red Line Oil Experiment- 2019 Lincoln Navigator 4WD 3.5L V6 Twin Turbo

Status
Not open for further replies.
What about this lubricant's inability to hold small particles in suspension that will turn it literally into sandpaper? Those high horsepower engines run this oil for a very short amount of time before they change it. Something to think about. Good luck!
 
Please tell me where I can buy 0w00, unless this is a joke. I’ve searched all over the web with no luck.
0w-0 is basically redundant. So 0w is what the bitog equation gets reduced to.
 
What is the intent of this? Bragging rights? Is there a legitimate point that can be proven with anything other than anecdotal data--except perhaps how much engine life can be reduced by running an oil that does not meet minimum requirements for design and operating conditions?
 
"Those engines only last a pass or two and are then torn down and rebuilt for the next race usually on the same day."

Formula 1 cars are required to use the same engine for 2 or 3 races and still be able to win without any rebuild or modification between uses.

"I now wonder how low the oil pressure was. Probably just barely enough to keep the locking pins in the vct phasers engaged."

The front end of the engine with timing chains et al was replaced early on due to some issue with the manufacture of the parts. The truck was bathing in the factory provided oil changes at the time and never in severe service. Thick oils have been advocated when manufacturing defects occurred but only delayed the eventual proper fix of corrected parts.

Remember that one of the things I am testing on this round is comparing the testing labs. Often people say oil testing is almost useless. That may be true for lesser quality testing. It is my belief that top end, quality testing does have useful information. Shall we see?

Ali

PS: Experimentation leads to progress. Somebody has to do it. Otherwise we might all still be chucking spears... There are those who lead and those that follow. Which one are you?
 
Last edited:
With the Ecoboost’s seeming propensity for engine issues with 5W30, I would be scared to even run 5W20 in it. Now, a certain ‘07 1ZZFE Corolla, with good oil pressure-that might be able to go a little ways on it (until the chain & VVT-I sheared it).
 
Remember that one of the things I am testing on this round is comparing the testing labs. Often people say oil testing is almost useless. That may be true for lesser quality testing. It is my belief that top end, quality testing does have useful information. Shall we see?
Who will perform the testing, and which standardized tests will be performed on the used oil? Do you plan to do an engine teardown before and after running this oil?

PS: Experimentation leads to progress. Somebody has to do it. Otherwise we might all still be chucking spears... There are those who lead and those that follow. Which one are you?
Or everyone has a fetish. I guess yours are very thin motor oils. Mine is high performance computing, with lubricants as a side-hobby.
 
"Do you plan to do an engine teardown before and after running this oil?"

So many people refer to engine tear downs in error. Sure, they are useful for major, catastrophic issues. But unless you measure all parts before going into the build you cannot conmment on wear. Even then, wear may be large during the break in period then settle down to nothing-ish. Unless you do a tear down every 250-500 miles or so it may be very misleading.

My feeling is the best that we can do is to use multiple methods of analysis as best we can and go from there, never knowing exactly where are stand with any certainty. All I can say is that I am comfortable with all the various methods of testing at my disposal allowing me to use thinner oils for my applications, with confidence.

Ali

See next post: I saw that 160F thing. As my Ferrari is at 170F with its oil I figured I would be OK. We shall see...
 
Last edited:
I saw that 160F thing. As my Ferrari is at 170F with its oil I figured I would be OK. We shall see...
What I meant to say, jokingly, is that if you drive the Ferrari slow enough, it'll be okay on ultra-low viscosity oil. ;)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
0w-0 is basically redundant. So 0w is what the bitog equation gets reduced to.
With me being a thickie, I'd have to use a mono grade SAE0.:D
 
Keep us updated. How did the engine sound? The oil pressure would have been interesting. I have a 2010 3.5l ford that called for 5w20, it got noisy when it was time for a change. Its not an ecoboost, no idea how similar it is to your engines architecture. I think the dash wanted 7k mile intervals.
 
Do you know the amount of metals that is found in the "normal" run filters? I can say that metals are found in all good filters. I will admit that this is the most I have seen in My engines though.
In a vehicle with 29,000 miles on it, there should be no visible metal particles caught in the oil filter. On my new vehicles (cars, trucks, motorcycles), after about 10,000 miles on them (pretty broken in and on the 3rd oil change) I do not see any visible metal particles anymore.
 
Last edited:
So many people refer to engine tear downs in error. Sure, they are useful for major, catastrophic issues. But unless you measure all parts before going into the build you cannot conmment on wear. Even then, wear may be large during the break in period then settle down to nothing-ish. Unless you do a tear down every 250-500 miles or so it may be very misleading.
Do a compelete teardown and measurements after a pretty good break-in (10,000 miles) and use that as the starting baseline.
 
... Do you know the amount of metals that is found in the "normal" run filters? I can say that metals are found in all good filters. I will admit that this is the most I have seen in My engines though. ...
In contrast to people who post photographs of filters so super-saturated with opaque oil that you can't see what's caught in the filter, I (mostly) de-oil my used filters and look carefully with a magnifying glass in the pleats. I've seen no metal particles in filters from the Toyota, and only very few in those from my Mazda (both listed below).

The very first filter I ever cut apart, long ago, was from my parents' 318 in³ Dodge when it was newish. I'd naively assumed I'd find a lot of interesting stuff in that media, but it was pretty clean, too. I didn't look as thoroughly then, though.
 
I cut open the factory oil filter on a 2015 Ford Coyote (435 HP, 5.0L V8) that had 2,000 miles on it (1st oil change). Dried out the media (paper towel wick trick) and looked for any captured debris with a strong light and a 10x magnifying glass. Saw just a few (6 or 7) very small aluminum paricles. The next oil change at ~5,000 I saw 3 or 4, and the oil change after that I didn't see anything.
 
Last edited:
Actually the unmagnified picture was of pleats that were soaked in mineral spirits to remove oil and then dried with a paper towel from the back side.
 
Interesting but, 0w-5, not in one of my vehicles. I'll stick with what has been working for me, 0W30, 5W30, 0W40, and 5W40. I see zero upside for me, and possible engine damage as the miles rack up. ;)
 
  • Like
Reactions: wlk
0w-0 is basically redundant. So 0w is what the bitog equation gets reduced to.
Yeah but 0w0 sounds funnier. Don’t take the vinegar out of it.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top