Turbo break in on my 05 sti

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Greetings. First time poster. I have an 05 wrx sti with just over 10k on her.

Some brief background information.

First oil change at 1k.. i switch m1 5-30. I use that for 3 oil changes.. every 1900-2900.. depending on how lazy i was. I was burning a good bit of oil and was not pleased. I switched to royal purple 5-30. This felt much much thicker. I did not burn a drop.

Turbo break in is key. I decided to try the oil people are raving about, German Castrol 0-30. I will be using this for 500 miles to break the turbo in, get it tuned, then do a full oil change again using GC 0-30. I will be using this for the cooler months.. and if i can find 0-40 GC i will use that. In the summer i plan on switching to a 10-40, thicker for a turbo car because of road racing and heavy demand in the summer. I will post some results and reactions tomorrow when my car comes alive.
From m1 5-30 to Royal purple 5-30 i noticed several differences. Idle was better. 1mpg better. Engine was slightly quieter. Just curious to know what people think is thicker... Royal Purple 5-30 or GC 0-30.. i am looking for the thickest 30 weight. Thanks all.
 
GC is thicker than royal purple. GC is not available in 0w-40. Just run the GC 0w-30 year round; it will protect just fine for hot temp road racing etc. Don't let the 0w rating fool you. GC is a BEEFY 30 weight, one of the beefiest, perhaps the beefiest (short of Redline) 30 weight oil you can buy over the counter. GC 0w-30 is thicker than just about any other 30 weight oil at temps above winter arctic conditions.
 
Yes, indeed, that is all correct. There is a 5W40 Belgian Castrol (BC) but it is a different chemistry than the GC.

Side note: yet another independent confirmation here of M1 causing more engine noise.

I didn't realize turbo break-in was such a big deal - but why are you talking about it in the future tense when you have 10k on the car? What have I missed?

You might think about extending your drain intervals. All the oils you've mentioned would be good for a very conservative 5k OCI, even in a hard-run turbo.

- Glenn
 
thanks for the replies. there will be metal shavings that are breaking in. i will try this 0-30. i speak in the future tense as i have 10k on the car now... but the turbo was just put on, has not fired up yet. so i will be doing the quick oil changes etc. I believe in quick oil changes until items are broken in fully. If you guys want to buy my used oil let me know! this first oil change will be aroudn 500 miles... cannot wait to see how this stuff is. i will consider using it in the summer. I hope i do not burn a drop of this. How many miles should i use this for before doing an oil evaluation? i am curious to see what my engine is doing. Thanks everyone.
 
Turbos dont break in. All they are is one shaft 2 weels with blades and 2 bronze or copper bearings that ride on a film of oil.
The heavyest 30 wt syn that I know of is Amsoils 3000 HDD 5/30. This would be a great oil in that engine all year round even some autoX would be fine. The GC would also be a good choise.
 
Turbos absolutely need to be broken in.
http://www.boostplanet.com/new_page_2.htm

Back on topic , I use GC in my WRX year round in Vegas and has seen 118+ degrees and given flawless UOA's. With less than 1/4qt. over 3k miles used.

Curiously, I had no engine noise issues with M1 5/30, yet it was very loud with Redline, and silent with GC.
 
pa-sale: I'd save the GC for after the turbo is broken in, it would be a shame to waste that oil on a short 500 mile OCI. I'd probably run conventional Havoline 5w-30 or 10w-30 for that 500 mile OCI then switch over to GC after that. Or if you're really paranoid, run a cheaper synthetic such as Supertech (found at Wal-Mart) or perhaps Rotella Synthetic.

BTW, my GC UOA on my '05 STi has been posted here.

BTW,
welcome.gif
to BITOG!
 
There is no such thing as turbo break-in. Subaru only specifies that the first 1000 miles you keep the RPM's below 4000 RPM.
 
Factory equipped turbos are already broken in by the time you take delivery. The link above is for field installed replacement units. If yours is the latter, then there is a very quick settling in of the bearing faces (1-200 mi), and that's it.

I'd be running RL 10W-30 in that WRX, which is the perfect turbo oil.

BTW, you don't want too thick an oil or you will start to compromise your spool up time, aka "turbo lag".
 
I agree that turbos don't need a break-in. I read the link and they don't explain why a break-in is needed, other than prelubing the unit on the engine. Prelubing is not break-in.
 
Regardless of the opinion of turbo break in and it's need, not following those instructions ( including the idle time and hundreds of miles of low boost ) would void my turbos warranty.
The warranty supersedes all opinion.
 
heh. For those who dont know that turbos need to be broken in i submit to you this : http://www.boostplanet.com/new_page_2.htm

They are one of the greatest turbo builders around. Turbo's 110% need to be broken in. They can consume oil just like an engine. Proper care and maintanence ensure good quality and longevity. For those of you who did not break your turbo in.. i am sorry and i hope you switch to a new turbo before you reach any ill effects. Many causes for low dynos and dissapointing numbers is due to poor break in. Turbos not running 100% healthy will not put down the same power as a healthy turbo.

I would like to thank Andy H for his help in the oil department and turning me onto a new oil. I attempt to post as often as possible. The beast fires up around 8pm tonight.

wish me luck.
 
do you have an autozone near you? i know they sell GC there.

I hope everyone who said turbo break in is not needed reads the above link that i provided.
 
haha you and me both Andy. I cannot wait to see what she can do. I will of course call you asap once she is alive.
 
The small cover green I built did over 380 WHP in 120+ heat on 91 at Kingpin Tuning in AZ. on a Dynojet. ( 04 sti )

Oil temps sit @ 210 with the MOCAL cooler.

Drop a temp range on the plugs, and avoid at ALL cost the thin electrode platniums and iridiums.
Use NGK coppers ( one colder ), it will pull quite a bit of temp out of the chamber.
 
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