Tried some popular Euro oils, here's my results

TiGeo

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Maybe the use of °F confused some. So that's approx 113°C, which I can totally see as decent.
Anyway that could also feel super hot for my old diesel with 75°C thermostat and oil radiator. Two very different beasts...also very differents from op's car.
Possibly - we all assume our home-country units....so yes....F which I thought would be obvious when someone posts 200+ oil temps....just like I would assume 100 would be C.
 
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OVERKILL

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What is it ya say you do here on BITOG?

His temps are normal…
I'm certain we all have a pretty good idea of what he does (did) at this juncture...
Johnny Walker Troll.jpeg
 
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No offense and it's a free country and you can do what you want, but don't you think that returning used oil is taking advantage of FCP Euro? I know their guarantee but if one has received the full use of the product, what justification is there to return?

Just wondering. Maybe I am missing something.
the warranty is meant to be abused

used oil is the tip of the iceberg of the things you can do with it
 

TiGeo

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There's no real 'results' here other than all the oils worked perfectly well for their intended purpose. You drive a euro car (albeit modified) and you are using a suitable visocisty and oil specification for your application. The oils you picked were from reputable manafacturers and I'd have been very suprised if you experienced anything different.

I also like Liquimoly products, especially the additives but the lubes are just not competitivley priced in the UK and are often more expensive than the likes of Mobil1.
Sure there are results...what do you call the UOA data? It at least gives you a look at how my motor is doing w/r to the oils I've used maintaining similar driving conditions for each and as you (and I) stated, it's doing just fine/what I would expect using oils with the necessary approvals.
 
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fwiw, if you had the APR tune your oil temps would be a lot lower (and honestly, I'm not entirely sure that's a great thing for daily driving). I don't think it's the cooling system, but how it's tuned from the factory. The cooling system is capable of keeping temps under 230 during really hard driving. Again--not saying there's any issue at all with the higher temps. I've run both Uni and APR, and the APR tunes seem really conservative on the cooling front. the Uni tune didn't seem to affect cooling at all.
 

TiGeo

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fwiw, if you had the APR tune your oil temps would be a lot lower (and honestly, I'm not entirely sure that's a great thing for daily driving). I don't think it's the cooling system, but how it's tuned from the factory. The cooling system is capable of keeping temps under 230 during really hard driving. Again--not saying there's any issue at all with the higher temps. I've run both Uni and APR, and the APR tunes seem really conservative on the cooling front. the Uni tune didn't seem to affect cooling at all.
I know/drive with a lot of folks on the same car tuned with APR - they are basically the same w/r to cooling based on our discussions.
 
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fwiw, if you had the APR tune your oil temps would be a lot lower (and honestly, I'm not entirely sure that's a great thing for daily driving). I don't think it's the cooling system, but how it's tuned from the factory. The cooling system is capable of keeping temps under 230 during really hard driving. Again--not saying there's any issue at all with the higher temps. I've run both Uni and APR, and the APR tunes seem really conservative on the cooling front. the Uni tune didn't seem to affect cooling at all.
Every VW with APR tune and no cooling hardware improvements go into limp mode like 2-3 laps after they start session here at the High Plains Raceway. It is altitude and it can get hot, really hot. Every APR VW I have seen without cooling issues has CSF and actual oil radiator not just heat exchanger. At lower altitude maybe CSF and heat exchanger might cut it.
 
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Sure there are results...what do you call the UOA data? It at least gives you a look at how my motor is doing w/r to the oils I've used maintaining similar driving conditions for each and as you (and I) stated, it's doing just fine/what I would expect using oils with the necessary approvals.

I think (guessing) what he meant is that by trying different brands of oils of identical viscosity and specs, you've demonstrated that if one does not treat a cold it'll last a week, but if one treats it, it will only last 7 days 😉
 

TiGeo

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I think (guessing) what he meant is that by trying different brands of oils of identical viscosity and specs, you've demonstrated that if one does not treat a cold it'll last a week, but if one treats it, it will only last 7 days 😉
The question that is so often debated here on BITOG....
 
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.
Great results. I always use to say that EA888 3G is pretty stout.
Let's remember TiGeo is running almost twice the stock power.
TiGeo, I'm still under the impression you should at least once try
some Ravenol, perhaps REP or RUP ideally. Granted, I have no
idea if it'll yield to even better results. Hard to improve them.
However I still feel a little anxious with that power since the 1.8
version comes with smaller main bearings compared to its bigger
2.0 brothers (GTI, Golf R & S3) and a lesser alloy for the pistons.


I have absolutely no idea what you are talking about. If your oil is running that hot, I will never buy a VW. Thanks for the warning.

I'm suprised a post like yours is getting likes on a technical forum.
If 215 - 240°F oil temp is a issue for you you have absolutely no clue
about anything. Which you already proved several times in plenty of
previous discussions to be fair.


I run the car in manual mode on the DSG and got it up to 235 or so a few times hammering it. Comes right back down. It just doesn't have a great oil cooling system.

If it's no more than 240°F with twice the stock power it actually IS a great
oil cooling system. 😇 😜.
.
 

TiGeo

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Great results. I always use to say that EA888 3G is pretty stout.
Let's remember TiGeo is running almost twice the stock power.
TiGeo, I'm still under the impression you should at least once try
some Ravenol, perhaps REP or RUP ideally. Granted, I have no
idea if it'll yield to even better results. Hard to improve them.
However I still feel a little anxious with that power since the 1.8
version comes with smaller main bearings compared to its bigger
2.0 brothers (GTI, Golf R & S3) and a lesser alloy for the pistons.




I'm suprised a post like yours is getting likes on a technical forum.
If 215 - 240°F oil temp is a issue for you you have absolutely no clue
about anything. Which you already proved several times in plenty of
previous discussions to be fair.




If it's no more than 240°F with twice the stock power it actually IS a great
oil cooling system. 😇 😜.
.
The 1.8 has been a proven performer with the IS38 and OTS tunes from APR, Unitronic, IE, and United. Folks have gone with more power reliably by adding MPI or water meth. It's a great little motor. As I understand it, the primary differences between it and the 2.0 are slighly less stroke which is the dispacment difference and no VVT on the exhaust cam. Other than that, it's v. similar. I'm looking at the new Garett turbos that have come out recently and hoping Unitronic comes out with a bolt-on kit including turbo, MPI/LPFP, and software to push up to a reliable 400hp on pump or moderate e-blends like E30.

I've actually only seen the 240+ numbers once and that was on the track, in the mtns 230 or so is about all I see.
 
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I'm quite sure your 1.8 also comes with VVT on both cams just like the 2.0.
Main difference is the smaller displacement, lighter weight crankshaft with
four instead of eight counterweights (if I remember correctly), smaller dia
bearings, smaller turbo (IS12 instead of IS20/IS38, but you know that) etc..
Perhaps there's some more (valves, cams etc.). Remember there's also some
difference between GTI and R. Pistons both geometry (compression ratio)
and alloy (higher Ni, Cr and Cu contents on Clubsport, S3 and R versions),
exhaust cam (intake cam is same), perhaps exhaust valves and piston jets,
of course IS38 turbo instead of IS20. Add uprated clutches/DM flywheels
and shorter gearing on manual versions.
Same crankshaft and crankcase between all 2.0 except the low-power 180/
190/204 HP Miller cycle version (Tiguan, A4 etc.), which is more familar with
its 1.8 predecessor. I do have almost all the documentation, but it's some
years ago I've read it last time.
Any link to adding MPI to a EA888 3G? I'm highly interested as my DLBA is
the only Euro EA888 3G lacking MPI. Despite that my exhaust remains clean,
suprisingly clean, contrary to previous versions even though they had dual
injection/DI + MPI. Guess that's due to the increas in fuel pressure and it's a
good sign with some relation to IVD.
On a side note: The DLBA's pistons are made from the same alloy as the S3/R
ones while they share the CHHA/CHHB geometry. Pretty much same internals
as current Audi A4/A5/A6 and Porsche Macan 245 - 265 HP versions, probably
same as Mk8 GTI, but I didn't compare PNs yet. So far I just know the Mk8 has
a new (Garret?) turbo, HP pump (and probably injectors) and a steel oil pan.
 

TiGeo

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I'm quite sure your 1.8 also comes with VVT on both cams just like the 2.0.
Main difference is the smaller displacement, lighter weight crankshaft with
four instead of eight counterweights (if I remember correctly), smaller dia
bearings, smaller turbo (IS12 instead of IS20/IS38, but you know that) etc..
Perhaps there's some more (valves, cams etc.). Remember there's also some
difference between GTI and R. Pistons both geometry (compression ratio)
and alloy (higher Ni, Cr and Cu contents on Clubsport, S3 and R versions),
exhaust cam (intake cam is same), perhaps exhaust valves and piston jets,
of course IS38 turbo instead of IS20. Add uprated clutches/DM flywheels
and shorter gearing on manual versions.
Same crankshaft and crankcase between all 2.0 except the low-power 180/
190/204 HP Miller cycle version (Tiguan, A4 etc.), which is more familar with
its 1.8 predecessor. I do have almost all the documentation, but it's some
years ago I've read it last time.
Any link to adding MPI to a EA888 3G? I'm highly interested as my DLBA is
the only Euro EA888 3G lacking MPI. Despite that my exhaust remains clean,
suprisingly clean, contrary to previous versions even though they had dual
injection/DI + MPI. Guess that's due to the increas in fuel pressure and it's a
good sign with some relation to IVD.
On a side note: The DLBA's pistons are made from the same alloy as the S3/R
ones while they share the CHHA/CHHB geometry. Pretty much same internals
as current Audi A4/A5/A6 and Porsche Macan 245 - 265 HP versions, probably
same as Mk8 GTI, but I didn't compare PNs yet. So far I just know the Mk8 has
a new (Garret?) turbo, HP pump (and probably injectors) and a steel oil pan.
No, it most definately doesn't have VVT on the exhaust - I know this for a fact and that is why there are more limited power/tuning optoins for it vs. the 2.0. It's why we don't get the pops/bangs bit as easily and why the larger turbos are harder to spool up as well as why I can't build boost using launch control.
 
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Ever try castrol 0w30 / 0w40 euro? Would seem like one of the most popular "euro" oils. Just curious as the euro oils I've used most last twenty years are M1 0w40 / Castrol 0w30/40 variants since they are widely available everywhere.
 

TiGeo

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Ever try castrol 0w30 / 0w40 euro? Would seem like one of the most popular "euro" oils. Just curious as the euro oils I've used most last twenty years are M1 0w40 / Castrol 0w30/40 variants since they are widely available everywhere.
No - not in this car but have used Castrol 5W40 in our Atlas. No real reason to test anything else, they are all *for me at this point* the same/close enough. I used M1 0W40 for ~200K in my '00 MK4 Jetta 2.slo.
 
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