Does anyone’s owner’s manual or warranty booklet state that oil grade is a function of the new-car warranty?
Towing with GM Light Duty 3.0L diesel
- Thread starter rbk777
- Start date
In the UK, doing your own oil changes is grounds for voiding your warranty. All maintainance should be carried out with OEM parts and by a tax registered garage. That said, they can only refuse warranty on the parts directly effected by the maintenance (i.e. if your instrument cluster failed, they couldnt refuse warranty because you went 60k on an air filter).
I've made the decision on this car that engine failure is extremely unlikely and to maintain it myself and take the risk.
My manual states that a DexosD 0w20 oil should be used (well since Peugeot bought Vauxhall/Opel they call DexosD something else) or if not available then you should use a 0w20 meeting ACEA C5. They give you no option for anything else.
Here in the US at least that’s due to the requirements of their CAFE award letter which requires the automaker to strongly word their literature. But there is no warranty requirement in the US.
The 3.0L Duramax supplement has this in it (relevant parts bolded by me):
Eventually, others will get approved. As for viscosity, it does not have a chart to use other viscosities according to temperatures like they used to. In the past, they used to include these charts to allow owners to use other viscosities outside of what was recommended. Not anymore.
To each their own. I however will not risk not being covered in case of a catastrophic failure. Again, this is a new engine which likely will have some bugs and/or defects. All newly designed engines do. I remember the new 2002 4.2 inline 6 in the TrailBlazer had an issue with dropping cylinder liners however this was a manufacturing defect, not a design flaw.
Am I being pessimistic? No, just realistic. That's the cost of being an early adopter.
and
So Yeah, it's in there. GM does approve and license other brands but as of this moment, there's only the ACDelco and Mobil Super 3000 XE2 that are licensed.
Site Maintenance
www.gmdexos.com
To each their own. I however will not risk not being covered in case of a catastrophic failure. Again, this is a new engine which likely will have some bugs and/or defects. All newly designed engines do. I remember the new 2002 4.2 inline 6 in the TrailBlazer had an issue with dropping cylinder liners however this was a manufacturing defect, not a design flaw.
Am I being pessimistic? No, just realistic. That's the cost of being an early adopter.
Yep....and we have denied warr. coverage when there are looks of wrong/poor oil/lack of changes. Not common, but it does happen.
What truck is that? Looks totally different under the hood than mine.
It's not. Its a Vauxhall Insignia (same car as the Buick Regal) with a 1.5 3 cylinder diesel that is heavily related to the Duramax 3.0.
So does it use a cartridge or does it use the spin-on the Duramax 3L uses?
That would be a first then as I've never seen anyone on here have a warranty claim denied (much less a warranty claim) for using an oil with a higher HT/HS than listed in the owner's manual. That's really the question here, not that they used Bullseye oil or didn't change it properly.
Cartridge. I'd like to change it to a spin-on. I like the thought of replacing the ADBV and bypass valve at each OCI. Pictures in the link below...
What else is this GM filter fitted to?
I just performed the first oil change on my new car (2 weeks old and 1000miles on the clock). The car ia a Vauxhall Insignia (basically a Buick Regal) and has half a Duramax 3.0 in it, a 1.5 3 cylinder diesel making 122bhp. It's specified for a 0w20 Dexos D oil as per the Duramax 3.0 however it...
bobistheoilguy.com
Yes. In this 2021 owners manual for the Silverado they clearly specify 0w20 with the caution right above it.
Yes and you do know what that means, right? That you should not use one that has an insufficient HT/HS or without an approval that’s appropriate for the application. That’s what causes damage.
An appropriate equivalent is 504 00 oil being equivalent to the 508 00 oil listed in my VW manual. Sometimes people need to use their brain rather than not understanding what is being written and why. An oil that causes engine failure being the operative concept here.
An appropriate equivalent is 504 00 oil being equivalent to the 508 00 oil listed in my VW manual. Sometimes people need to use their brain rather than not understanding what is being written and why. An oil that causes engine failure being the operative concept here.
You are merely trying to divert from your original question that I quoted. That Silverado can tow 12,000 lbs with 0w20 oil.
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Yes a little I’ll agree with that. And being able to tow 12,000 lbs with a 20-grade is nice, but not relevant to me I guess. Many owner’s manuals acknowledge that an oil with a higher HT/HS is beneficial when towing or under extreme conditions. I guess I just understand why that is and choose to apply it to my situation.
I was waiting for one of these to show up here. Never fails. Thanks for your opinion
God, this argument is reminiscent of 505.01 oil wars on TDIClub.com.
Everyone thought they were an oil chemist and arguably right at that point. The whole CAFE fuel requirement argument is a weak one as it's been proven time & time again that your engine will not grenade on a 20 weight. In fact most of the 30's shear to a 20 anyway by the end of OCI. It is also a well known fact that diesel's in general tend to break-in over an extended period of time. You could see those high iron numbers regardless of oil well into 50k miles.
Everyone thought they were an oil chemist and arguably right at that point. The whole CAFE fuel requirement argument is a weak one as it's been proven time & time again that your engine will not grenade on a 20 weight. In fact most of the 30's shear to a 20 anyway by the end of OCI. It is also a well known fact that diesel's in general tend to break-in over an extended period of time. You could see those high iron numbers regardless of oil well into 50k miles.
Thin oils are being used increasingly for no other reason that emmissions and fuel economy. Thats a fact, there's no other way around it.
Yes, engines can and do live perfectly reasonable lives on 20 weight oils.
But there's nothing wrong with going a bit thicker, especially if the engine is worked hard. I haven't noticed any change in fuel economy in my half-a-Duramax-3.0 since going to Mobil1 0w40 ESP.
If a 30 shears to a 20, what does a 20 shear down to? Hmmm...
I never have and never will put 16 or 20 weight oils in an engine of mine. The automaker may care about 0.002 MPG for CAFE scores, but I don't. I want longevity.
