Towing with GM Light Duty 3.0L diesel

[MNTIM]

Thanks--I drove a diesel in Germany for a couple of years, but always had the oil changed for me. Where should I get the oil analysis done--I'm also looking for excess iron and fuel dilution.

Run 5k on the m1 and send it in to Polaris - they will use g/c for Fuel dilution.

The high iron is a concern but we also havnt had any consistent UOAs past 15-20k. My most recent was 700-5k miles so 4300 with dexos D and that wasn’t that bad.
My next from 5-10k went missing in the mail to black stone unfortunately. And just now I have the esp in and can’t wait to send that in.

 

[Ohio91]

I have a GM 1500 truck with light duty 3.0L diesel. No problems with using the recommended 0w-20 oil in winter when not towing, but in summer (where it gets up to 100F here) while towing an 8K lbs trailer, I'm thinking I need something more heavy duty. I do OCI every 5K miles regardless of anything. What would you say is best from the following list, and do you see any problem using any of these besides the recommended oil:

Mobil 1 ESP 0w-30
Penzoil Ultra Platinum Euro LX 0w-30
Castrol Edge Euro Formula 0w-30
Valvoline European 0w-30

Mobil 1 is the most expensive by far, so would prefer to use one of the other three if they are comparable.

mine takes 0w20 oil and when I tow in the summer my oil pressure drops just a little lower then it would just driving around I suspect to oil thinning from the temps. I suspect gm has taken this into account being a truck and knowing it will tow. If your towing I would recommend going to 3000 mile oci though. Even with full synthetic I go 3000 miles. I tow a lot and it’s thin oil anyway. Peace of mind

 

[Peted]

3,000 mile OCI to deal with the excess iron particles, but as I recall they were using the recommended 0w20

Updated: The 3.0L sounds noticeably quieter after putting in the 30 weight oil in--not even like a diesel.

At what point do we finally conclude that thin oils are for the benefit of MPG at the expense of engine wear. It's just redundant at this point, we see it over and over and yet still people praise incredibly thin oils all because X manufacture tells them it's the best oil. Manufactures don't want your engine lasting long. They want to please CAFE and get you back in the showroom buying a new vehicle because your 3 year old machine is "worn out". Common sense is needed or we are doomed to repeat the same mistakes.

I'm glad you chose to use a 30 weight in your diesel engine. You might even try a 5w40 during the hot months or or heavy towing.

 

[Bailes1992]

The engine in my half-a-duramax-3.0 is getting it's first oil change this weekend. I've decided to go with M1's 0w40 ESP. Having a nightmare finding an oil filter though, suspect I'm going to have to go to Vauxhall to purchase one.

 

[blufeb95]

The engine in my half-a-duramax-3.0 is getting it's first oil change this weekend. I've decided to go with M1's 0w40 ESP. Having a nightmare finding an oil filter though, suspect I'm going to have to go to Vauxhall to purchase one.

Yeah, even in the US the only filters you can get for it are Delco, well I think there's some ridiculous overpriced aftermarket performance parts company that makes a filter for it but the Delco is the best bet. Delco is the only filter I know of with the unusual 1"-16 thread pattern on such a small filter, I think Wix and Fram have a filter in the works but I don't think they're actually available for purchase anywhere so far.

 

[Bailes1992]

Yeah, even in the US the only filters you can get for it are Delco, well I think there's some ridiculous overpriced aftermarket performance parts company that makes a filter for it but the Delco is the best bet. Delco is the only filter I know of with the unusual 1"-16 thread pattern on such a small filter, I think Wix and Fram have a filter in the works but I don't think they're actually available for purchase anywhere so far.

I'm assuming my little 1.5 3 cylinder engine uses the same filter. I'll get some pictures and measurements when I get mine off. I'm unsure if it's a canister of cartridge at this moment in time. I can't see a filter form the top of the engine so assuming again that it is underneath, maybe in the sump itself?

 

[blufeb95]

I'm assuming my little 1.5 3 cylinder engine uses the same filter. I'll get some pictures and measurements when I get mine off. I'm unsure if it's a canister of cartridge at this moment in time. I can't see a filter form the top of the engine so assuming again that it is underneath, maybe in the sump itself?

From what I can find that engine uses a cartridge

Product

www.hengst.com

 

[Mooseman2]

From what I see on RA, there's ACDelco PF66, ACDelco Gold UPF66R and Champ/Luber-Finer PH10066. I wouldn't trust the Champ, maker of some of the cheapest filters just a notch above Fram.

@Bailes1992 , How many miles/km did you get to for that first oil change? I have a brand new '21 Sierra with the 3.0L with barely over 300km.

At least I have the first two oil changes free so no worries for a while. Sure hope there will be better filter choices by my third.

 

[Bailes1992]

From what I see on RA, there's ACDelco PF66, ACDelco Gold UPF66R and Champ/Luber-Finer PH10066. I wouldn't trust the Champ, maker of some of the cheapest filters just a notch above Fram.

@Bailes1992 , How many miles/km did you get to for that first oil change? I have a brand new '21 Sierra with the 3.0L with barely over 300km.

At least I have the first two oil changes free so no worries for a while. Sure hope there will be better filter choices by my third.

I'm planning on changing mine at 1000miles then 5000miles and every 5000miles or 6 months thereafter with a 'full service' every 40k or 2 years.

I can't find much information about how different the two engines are. From what I can work out that during the development of the Duramax 3.0 they also made a 1.5 3 cylinder (the engine I have) and a 2.0 4 cylinder all on the same basic architecture. It would be interesting to know how many differences there are between the engines other than cylinder count.

 

[Rat407]

Considering this engine, 3.0 was designed from the ground up and not a European version but a completely new design. I would think the oil recommendation was part of the design as well. Run what make you happy for the most part. Not like it will blow up running a thick oil. More than likely will not have any issues and warranty will not come into play either. Have you looked at AMSOIL's new 5w-30 for diesels?

https://www.amsoil.com/p/synthetic-diesel-oil-sae-5w-30-dp5/

 

[Jetronic]

Well it’s definitely not the viscosity of water. Besides it’s really about the HT/HS which is what, 2.6 for dexos D? That would be (as Honda puts it) “adequate” under most circumstances.

Did Honda refer to diesel engines specifically?

 

[kschachn]

Did Honda refer to diesel engines specifically?

If that’s what’s specified for the application then it’s acceptable.

 

[ToadU]

No, nor have I seen any that it does. GM cares mostly about fuel economy, emissions, and the engine lasting through the warranty period. My priorities are quite different. Nor have a seen any evidence that GM tests it engines while towing for extended periods, which again makes me suspect their choice of a 20 weight oil. I keep my cars/trucks minimum 200K miles.

GM and all truck manufactures do test all of their light and med duty trucks loaded and in all temp environments. The "truck wars" are a battle of the super powers and the profits are so high they are the most tested segment in the auto industry.

Go by the manual. Don't experiment. Stop wasting oil w 5k changes. This isnt 1970s and 80s anymore!!! Go by the OLM for changes and the manual. 200k miles is nothing. My trucks go 200-250k miles per year---I keep them 3 years now. Also, dont pay for fancy brand name oil---oil is oil if it meets specs. period.

 

[MNTIM]

GM and all truck manufactures do test all of their light and med duty trucks loaded and in all temp environments. The "truck wars" are a battle of the super powers and the profits are so high they are the most tested segment in the auto industry.

Go by the manual. Don't experiment. Stop wasting oil w 5k changes. This isnt 1970s and 80s anymore!!! Go by the OLM for changes and the manual. 200k miles is nothing. My trucks go 200-250k miles per year---I keep them 3 years now. Also, dont pay for fancy brand name oil---oil is oil if it meets specs. period.

So if we see trends of higher metal generation through the last 30% of a oil change or say in the 5-7500k mile range then we should ignore that? Or shearing of oil below the recommended grade when ran past 5k?

Only time will tell but I’ve seen a handful of reports (every one posted on fb or any other forum) for these 3.0l spitting out 40-60ppm in 5k miles but then 100+ when ran to 7500.

Frankly the only hard evidence for these 3.0ls is they have high iron on every UOA I’ve seen. They also are all fairly new trucks and
Does GM know their engine.. yeah forsure they do. But what’s in their best interest? Having the most efficient diesel in the class? Or making sure this engine runs as long as possible outside of warranty. That’s an obvious answer. There’s reason guys doubt (carefully) the oil they want us to run.
It’ll be clear to me if my next UOA running a 5w30 comes back with far less iron. But again we need time and miles and tests.

 

[Majsmith]

Mobil1 ESP 0W30 or ESP 5W30, Motul X-Clean+ 5W30.
There is really stout Morul X-Clean 5W40 GEN2 that has HTHS 3.9. It is $49 on Amazon for 5ltr.

I may have to give the Motul a shot...

 

[CleverUserName]

The high iron is likely due to the regeneration cycles as this engine uses main injection for DPF regenerations.

The excess fuel washes off the oil from the cylinders. This will absolutely also cause fuel dilution. Off course with 0w20 this is not good.

The thicker oil film, in a 5w30 or 5w40 will be resistant to being washed away.

You can also try adding a fuel additive which improves fuel quality and lubricity, this should make a difference as well.

So if we see trends of higher metal generation through the last 30% of a oil change or say in the 5-7500k mile range then we should ignore that? Or shearing of oil below the recommended grade when ran past 5k?

Only time will tell but I’ve seen a handful of reports (every one posted on fb or any other forum) for these 3.0l spitting out 40-60ppm in 5k miles but then 100+ when ran to 7500.

Frankly the only hard evidence for these 3.0ls is they have high iron on every UOA I’ve seen. They also are all fairly new trucks and
Does GM know their engine.. yeah forsure they do. But what’s in their best interest? Having the most efficient diesel in the class? Or making sure this engine runs as long as possible outside of warranty. That’s an obvious answer. There’s reason guys doubt (carefully) the oil they want us to run.
It’ll be clear to me if my next UOA running a 5w30 comes back with far less iron. But again we need time and miles and tests.

 

[MNTIM]

The high iron is likely due to the regeneration cycles as this engine uses main injection for DPF regenerations.

The excess fuel washes off the oil from the cylinders. This will absolutely also cause fuel dilution. Off course with 0w20 this is not good.

The thicker oil film, in a 5w30 or 5w40 will be resistant to being washed away.

You can also try adding a fuel additive which improves fuel quality and lubricity, this should make a difference as well.

Yep so if I don’t run Cenex roadmaster xl fuel then it’s a strict regimen of hotshots edt or archoil 6400. Occasionally powerservice as well.

In mn we also run 20% bio so that’s cool. I have a very particular few stations I fill at and I always plan then best I can so i never get fuel at a mystery station.
I mean with a consistent 25-29mpg general commuting and driving it’s pretty easy to find a good station.

 

[MNTIM]

The high iron is likely due to the regeneration cycles as this engine uses main injection for DPF regenerations.

The excess fuel washes off the oil from the cylinders. This will absolutely also cause fuel dilution. Off course with 0w20 this is not good.

The thicker oil film, in a 5w30 or 5w40 will be resistant to being washed away.

You can also try adding a fuel additive which improves fuel quality and lubricity, this should make a difference as well.

My next UOA will go to Polaris or oil analyzers for a proper FD test. Will also see how the m1 esp 0w20 held up. But my next fill will be esp 5-30 granted I’m in mn and winter is almost here. It’s a garage baby in the winter and nearly never sits outside. I have a work beater for the salt **** roads here

 

[Bailes1992]

Went with Mobil1 0w40 ESP in my 1/2 a Duramax 3.0. The engine is quieter and slightly smoother to drive and I'm pretty sure it's not a placebo.

 

[Mooseman2]

That's all fine and dandy however aren't you concerned about voiding your warranty by not using the recommended oil and/or viscosity? This is still a relatively new engine and longevity has not yet been proven. If anything were to go wrong, they will likely ask for proof that proper maintenance was done and with the specified oil. Heck, they probably would deny a claim if even a seal were to fail.

Although not in either of our countries, this article is quite telling and would stand the test of proof probably in any jurisdiction:

If your engine fails and your warranty claim is denied because you changed the oil yourself, that's not good enough. If they can document that the wrong type of oil was installed, too much or too little oil used, or the oil changes weren't performed according to the maintenance schedule, they may be able to deny the claim and win.

I intend to do my own oil changes however will be following GM's recommendations with records and receipts as proof.