Synthetic Oil Brand and Weight for Powerstroke 6.7 HO

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I recently purchased a 2024 Ford F-250 with the 6.7 Powerstroke HO diesel. I'm looking for recommendations on which synthetic oil I should run. Currently looking at Rotella T6 and Mobil Delvac Extreme as they both meet the Ford WSS-M2C961-A1 spec. Of these two oils, which would rank better? Also the owners manual recommends 10w-30 for "normal usage" but 5w40 for "severe duty service". I will be primarily towing my 9,000 lb travel trailer RV but will also run around empty.

When I've looked online, it seems Rotella T6 5w40 is highly recommended and used but very little info regarding Rotella T6 10w30. Also very little info for people running Mobil Delvac Extreme in the 6.7 Powerstroke. The one caviet with the Delvac Extreme is that it is only offered in 10w30 or 15w40.

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I recently purchased a 2024 Ford F-250 with the 6.7 Powerstroke HO diesel. I'm looking for recommendations on which synthetic oil I should run. Currently looking at Rotella T6 and Mobil Delvac Extreme as they both meet the Ford WSS-M2C961-A1 spec. Of these two oils, which would rank better? Also the owners manual recommends 10w-30 for "normal usage" but 5w40 for "severe duty service". I will be primarily towing my 9,000 lb travel trailer RV but will also run around empty.

When I've looked online, it seems Rotella T6 5w40 is highly recommended and used but very little info regarding Rotella T6 10w30. Also very little info for people running Mobil Delvac Extreme in the 6.7 Powerstroke. The one caviet with the Delvac Extreme is that it is only offered in 10w30 or 15w40.

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Pick one from the approved motor oils list. We cannot know which one ranks "better" based on the tools available to most of us, i.e., UOA, etc.

https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/additionalinfo/dieseloilsWSSM2C171F1.pdf
 
The 5w40 ESP does not contain enough phosphorus to meet the requirements, but the 15w40 Extreme does. For some reason the unicorn 0w40 ESP does meet the WSS-M2C171-F1 specification if it can be found.
True and phos/zddp are good but I'm not convinced a conventional 10w-30 with the ford spec can outperform esp 5w-40 with a bit less phos/zddp as there's more to wear reduction than just additive counts but they do help and having more aw additives does help most of the time but it's not a guarantee.
 
Forget Rotella. It shears out of grade (per UOAs), is highly volatile (12%), and foams like a draft beer (55 ml, >2.5x the max allowed). It also contains no friction modifier and ZDDP is <800 ppm P per latest UOAs. You won't find anyone serious about oil using that junk. People who recommend Rotella are just using mental gymnastics to inflate their cheap purchase to be something greater than it actually is. Shell also spends ~$60 million/yr marketing it.

I'm not impressed with any common major brand CK-4 oil. The bar is just set too low, and they're all in a race to the bottom. I also wouldn't put weight on the WSS-M2C171-F1 spec. It's just a mirror of CK-4. Whether or not a brand carries it is just a matter of whether or not they feel like paying royalties to Ford.

In general, oil is cheap. Even top shelf boutique oils are cheap in the grand scheme of things. I'd want to treat that engine with the best available such as HPL HDMO or Amsoil Signature HDMO. I have much more trust in these brands than I do some mediocre cert from a major brand. For example, CK-4 allows 20 ml of foam where as HPL's standard is 0 ml. If it foams any whatsoever, they don't ship it. API's standards for rust prevention is a 4 hour test in freshwater where as HPL's is a 24 hour test in saltwater. Amsoil and Red Line's standards are similar.
 
Forget Rotella. It shears out of grade (per UOAs), is highly volatile (12%), and foams like a draft beer (55 ml, >2.5x the max allowed). It also contains no friction modifier and ZDDP is <800 ppm P per latest UOAs. You won't find anyone serious about oil using that junk. People who recommend Rotella are just using mental gymnastics to inflate their cheap purchase to be something greater than it actually is. Shell also spends ~$60 million/yr marketing it.
I've tried to find the link to that info but can't, could you share it. I believe you so I won't be buying rotella or recommending t4/5 and maybe t6 for the time being. I think I'll buy the new Valvoline diesel oil instead once I run through my stash of mag 1 which is decent for the low price at 10% noack. 4.2 hths, 1270 zddp/1150 phos but not exceptional by any means but not the worst I've seen. It's far better than the conventional SJ 5w-30 they were designed around in the 90's. I give my new truck euro oil instead.

I'm not impressed with any common major brand CK-4 oil. The bar is just set too low, and they're all in a race to the bottom. I also wouldn't put weight on the WSS-M2C171-F1 spec. It's just a mirror of CK-4. Whether or not a brand carries it is just a matter of whether or not they feel like paying royalties to Ford.
I believe this. Off the shelf oils are a race to the bottom so a pcmo 10w-30 can and very likely will be worse than the same price 5w-30 next to it in many ways but they can't be too bad. Too many engines last a long time with meets api spec and nothing more bulk oil if changed appropriately but there's no arguing they don't deliver the best wear or longest drains.

In general, oil is cheap. Even top shelf boutique oils are cheap in the grand scheme of things. I'd want to treat that engine with the best available such as HPL HDMO or Amsoil Signature HDMO. I have much more trust in these brands than I do some mediocre cert from a major brand. For example, CK-4 allows 20 ml of foam where as HPL's standard is 0 ml. If it foams any whatsoever, they don't ship it. API's standards for rust prevention is a 4 hour test in freshwater where as HPL's is a 24 hour test in saltwater. Amsoil and Red Line's standards are similar.
I think this is great but I can't say I've seen a normal engine have rust from using normal oil even in very humid environments. Still it's great that the rust prevention is that good because I didn't know it was that great and it's nice that one also gets that when they buy a proper premium grade oil like hpl.
 
I've tried to find the link to that info but can't, could you share it. I believe you so I won't be buying rotella or recommending t4/5 and maybe t6 for the time being. I think I'll buy the new Valvoline diesel oil instead once I run through my stash of mag 1 which is decent for the low price at 10% noack. 4.2 hths, 1270 zddp/1150 phos but not exceptional by any means but not the worst I've seen. It's far better than the conventional SJ 5w-30 they were designed around in the 90's. I give my new truck euro oil instead.


I believe this. Off the shelf oils are a race to the bottom so a pcmo 10w-30 can and very likely will be worse than the same price 5w-30 next to it in many ways but they can't be too bad. Too many engines last a long time with meets api spec and nothing more bulk oil if changed appropriately but there's no arguing they don't deliver the best wear or longest drains.


I think this is great but I can't say I've seen a normal engine have rust from using normal oil even in very humid environments. Still it's great that the rust prevention is that good because I didn't know it was that great and it's nice that one also gets that when they buy a proper premium grade oil like hpl.

Top 3 are Rotella T6 (3rd one was only used for 1,000 miles), bottom 2 are HPL No VII Euro 10W-40. Look at #1 vs #5 at the same mileage.

Ram Ecodiesel 3.0L Rotella vs HPL.webp


D892 foam test of Rotella T6 5W-40 vs HPL HDMO 5W-40.

Rotella T6 5W-40 vs HPL HDMO 5W-40 D892.webp
 
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Top 3 are Rotella T6 (3rd one was only used for 1,000 miles), bottom 2 are HPL No VII 10W-40. Look at #1 vs #5 at the same mileage.

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D892 foam test of Rotella T6 5W-40 vs HPL HDMO 5W-40.

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I thought it was only the lower end rotella oils that were bad but if t6 5w-40 tested this bad then I wonder how bad t4 would fare now. I'm not using or recommending rotella anymore then. I wonder is shell cares this little about their products. One would think they'd care more than this but this is clearly not the case.
 
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I thought it was only the lower end rotella oils that were bad but if t6 5w-40 tested this bad then I wonder how bad t4 would fare now. I'm not using or recommending rotella anymore then. I wonder is shell cares this little about their products. One would think they'd care more than this but this is clearly not the case.
Just this one opinion...All of my UOA have been good with T6. Does it compare to a $$$ boutique oil, maybe not. T6 meets OP spec so it works. Many have run millions of miles on Rotella oil.
 
I recently purchased a 2024 Ford F-250 with the 6.7 Powerstroke HO diesel. I'm looking for recommendations on which synthetic oil I should run. Currently looking at Rotella T6 and Mobil Delvac Extreme as they both meet the Ford WSS-M2C961-A1 spec. Of these two oils, which would rank better? Also the owners manual recommends 10w-30 for "normal usage" but 5w40 for "severe duty service". I will be primarily towing my 9,000 lb travel trailer RV but will also run around empty.

When I've looked online, it seems Rotella T6 5w40 is highly recommended and used but very little info regarding Rotella T6 10w30. Also very little info for people running Mobil Delvac Extreme in the 6.7 Powerstroke. The one caviet with the Delvac Extreme is that it is only offered in 10w30 or 15w40.

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The WSS-M2C961-A1 spec you referenced is incorrect. You need Ford Specification WSS-M2C171-F1. Use a 40 grade. Here's a small list.
 
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If you want a F1 approved 5w-40, your life is simple. Rotella is the only option.

If you're willing to look at 15w-40 (warm climate) then you have choices of Delo, Rotella, and Delvac. All three are on rebate right now so stock up. I'd personally go with Delo.

Or you can go boutique. But those are the options you'll find around town.

If you're willing to eschew F1 compliance, the Volvo-4.5 cert is perhaps the most stringent FUNCTIONAL spec listed on a CK-4 oil label. That opens up more options. Notably Delvac ESP.

Call me old fashioned, but even towing 9000 pounds in hills can lead to high oil temperatures. When the temps go up I want the extra pressure of 40wt (vs 30) to keep piston cooling going and turbochargers happy. If you lived in flat land and towed at grandpa speeds, perhaps 10w-30.
 
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If your brand new truck isn’t worth spending $175-200 on quality oil every 15qt OCI, you should have bought a used beater. Sure, you MAY not have any issues with a $25-30 shelf oil, but why spend $75-100 and get mediocre performance? I would personally recommend HPL like @RDY4WAR did, but Amsoil, Redline, etc definitely have offerings better than anything on the “approved” list. If you go shelf stock, the Delvac ESP 5w40 would be my choice.

HPL CC CK-4 (Exceeds F1 requirements) works out to about $16/qt, ~$205 per OCI. Delvac 1 is about $75 on sale but almost certainly won’t go as far. Your call. Best of luck, let us know what you choose.

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If you want a F1 approved 5w-40, your life is simple. Rotella is the only option.

If you're willing to look at 15w-40 (warm climate) then you have choices of Delo, Rotella, and Delvac. All three are on rebate right now so stock up. I'd personally go with Delo.

Or you can go boutique. But those are the options you'll find around town.

If you're willing to eschew F1 compliance, the Volvo-4.5 cert is perhaps the most stringent FUNCTIONAL spec listed on a CK-4 oil label. That opens up more options. Notably Delvac ESP.

Call me old fashioned, but even towing 9000 pounds in hills can lead to high oil temperatures. When the temps go up I want the extra pressure of 40wt (vs 30) to keep piston cooling going and turbochargers happy. If you lived in flat land and towed at grandpa speeds, perhaps 10w-30.
Why would a slow turning v8 diesel that will never see more than 3k rpm care about a F1 certified oil? That’s like caring about if the oil is JASO FC.

Also VDS 4.5 isn’t hard to meet. Most dino oils meet it.
 
The WSS-M2C961-A1 spec you referenced is incorrect. You need Ford Specification WSS-M2C171-F1. Use a 40 grade. Here's a small list.
Why would a slow turning v8 diesel that will never see more than 3k rpm care about a F1 certified oil? That’s like caring about if the oil is JASO FC.

Also VDS 4.5 isn’t hard to meet. Most dino oils meet it.
Because some CK-4s have reduced phosphorus and corresponding ZDDP than the F-1 specifies as a minimum.
In Canada, Duron is an option to Rotella and so is Turbo Diesel Truck Delvac 5w40.
Case in point, last month I bought a five gallon pail of Delvac 1300 Super 15w40 for $78 Canadian$, which works out to $56 USD.
Add ten bucks for a filter and I did my daughter’s L5P for $40.
Someone posted that if a person can’t afford $175- $200 USD for an oil change, they should buy a beater instead. In this case, a 3500 Highcountry is a beater.
In addition, all API, ACEA and manufacturers approvals include a foam sequence test.
So no, they don’t foam up like beer in your engine.
Several HDEOs are also suitable for use in motorcycle engines which run significantly higher rpm than Diesel engines in a pickup truck.

Each to their own, but I would rather do four oil changes with plain Jane oil instead of one oil change with an exotic.

I won’t be oil shamed into spending more when my average car & truck payments have averaged over $1,200 a month for the last 20 years. And I didn’t buy them to test engine oils and fluids.
 
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If your brand new truck isn’t worth spending $175-200 on quality oil every 15qt OCI, you should have bought a used beater.
Sounds like a great advice for those in the market for a new vehicle, doesn't it?
"Run a boutique oil, or go get yourself a beater!" - Appalling.

Notwithstanding the benefits of HPL and others, i.e., longer OCI, cleanliness, etc., he will get full performance using an approved oil. And will also get the expected life of the engine. Wether a Camry, a Ford 250, or a 3 million dollar CAT Genset.
 
Why would a slow turning v8 diesel that will never see more than 3k rpm care about a F1 certified oil? That’s like caring about if the oil is JASO FC.

Also VDS 4.5 isn’t hard to meet. Most dino oils meet it.

Um, Ford WSS-M2C171-F1. Not "formula" F1. We thought F1 race cars had "approved" oils you could buy at Walmart and that I was so silly as to recommend them?

In the end, the turbo turns 120k rpm under moderate load so why does a loafy 3k crank speed matter? Diesel oils have a job to do and it’s not necessarily “easier” than in a Civic SI just because the "number" (RPMs) is lower. Stroke on my truck is 4.88 inches. Main journals of 3.267". Go figure relevant velocities from there. Not all RPMs are created equal.

Regarding VDS-4.5, there are some great dino oils out there these days. In most diesel applications soot loading determines OCI far before the greater oxidative stability of full syn can be realized. Full syn becomes a "why not" rather than a necessity.

Top 3 are Rotella T6 (3rd one was only used for 1,000 miles), bottom 2 are HPL No VII Euro 10W-40. Look at #1 vs #5 at the same mileage.
Wow, if HPL can make a difference in a 3.0 Ecodiesel it's really got the special sauce. Proof in the pudding then. On the other hand, does T6 actually meet MS-10902? I don't see it on the PDS. So saying a non-approved oil can be approved on isn't saying much.
 
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