Towing with GM Light Duty 3.0L diesel

While towing on the freeway mid summer 100+ or winter -10 the oil is basically the same and will hover 240-255.
At 260 the coolant will drop down to 180 and cool the oil off.
I calculated the viscosity of a 0w-20 oil at 260°F and come up with 5.48 cSt and 5.9 cSt at 250°F

I'm having second thoughts about what viscosity is best for longevity. If it were mine, I think I'd go with a 5w-30
 
I calculated the viscosity of a 0w-20 oil at 260°F and come up with 5.48 cSt and 5.9 cSt at 250°F

I'm having second thoughts about what viscosity is best for longevity. If it were mine, I think I'd go with a 5w-30
and with mobil. I feel like esp would be the ticket. I would run the delvac esp 5-30 but those all are 1% ash vs .8%. Not a huge difference but 20% more and over a lifetime on a tiny DPF like ours it could sure add up.

I know it’s early and until I get 20-30k miles of consistent analysis we wont be able to assume a c3 will protect better than a c5. But regardless I haven’t seen a UOA under 50ppm iron. That seems like allot. Even FF break in changes on the bigger engines don’t get that high.

I calculated the viscosity of a 0w-20 oil at 260°F and come up with 5.48 cSt and 5.9 cSt at 250°F
I'm having second thoughts about what viscosity is best for longevity. If it were mine, I think I'd go with a 5w-30
 
Which 5W-30, C2 5W30 or C3 5W30?
I'm a risk taker when the risk makes sense. Protecting the aftertreatment system is about keeping the oil in the crankcase and out of the exhaust stream. A CK-4 (actually I prefer VDS 4.5 because it's much more stringent than CK-4) rated oil that is known to be very resistant to consumption would be my choice. If you have an oil that stays in the sump and out of the exhaust stream, then frankly it doesn't matter what the ash rating is.

If you are asking me which oil would be in my 3.0L Duramax, then my answer would be HPL 5w-30 HDEO. I would monitor for consumption and seeing none, I would run it for the life of the engine. If I saw consumption, then I would run a low ash oil and top it up when needed. I do have experience running HPL HDEOs in a couple 6.6L Duramax engines that work hard and there is zero consumption.
 
Not an expert--that's why I'm here. So are you saying that all oils protect against wear equally, and there is no difference in wear protection in a 20w vs a 30w oil? That does not sound right. Remember, we are talking about pulling an 8K lb. trailer in 95 degree heat, with hills involved.
That is why you would do a uoa. That would tell you what is what with your oil. I would use a uoa no matter what oil was in the truck. If you would read what I told you, I NEVER said all oils would wear equally. I just did not think the oil would not be worn out in 5,000 miles. Have you done a uoa? It sounds to me you already know it all.
 
Meh! I looked at those and found out the oil pump is belt driven!! You're supposed to "inspect" the belt at 150k miles. OK... but wait, the transmission is in the way so you need to drop that first.

How heavy can you go with the oil before you over stress that belt over the life of the engine?

Depends if you drive in winter or not... is the interval reduced for Canada or Alaska?
 
So, there's nothing, since you can't link to anything saying there's a problem just, "do you're own research," the VM Motori Eco Diesel, has extensive issues that are well known, the oil grade is little to do with it, it's poorly designed EGR systems and badly designed oil coolers that are the primary problem, FCA/VM Motori doesn't even seem to know what they're doing, they keep changing oil recommendations and I think one of the specs that's allowable is actually an FCA version of A3/B4 which I absolutely would not put in any vehicle with a DPF. The Duramax seems to have a few hit and miss problems at best, whereas the Ecodiesel has an extensive history of being a problem, overall I'd say get a gasser if you need a truck, Diesel isn't worth it unless you're driving a semi or maybe a medium duty truck.

I'm running A3/B4 oil in my DPF equipped FCA diesel for over 100k now... dpf is not showing any signs of crapping out yet.
 
They do not use a 7th injector. It’s post combustion injection for the dpf regeneration.. my couple UOAS were black stone so not GC testing for dilution but I also didn’t see ANY rise in levels and I check in the same spot and same conditions nearly daily. But I know even 3-4% wouldnt be noticeable most likely on the dipstick… who do you recommend for a proper GC test? I’ll use somebody else on my next UOA in about 2-3 weeks on my 3.0l duramax
That’s disappointing. Due to cost savings I’m sure. Every automaker except Ford moved away from post injection because it’s less efficient and causes FD.

Oil Analyzers from Amsoil or Polaris will give you a real FD % to work with.
 
New to the forum Have a GM 3.0 Duramax and was running the DexosD 0W-20. I have 12000 miles on it now. First oil change I did myself at 2500 miles. Free dealership oil change at 7500. Took a 1800 mile trip towing my 4600 lb boat and didn't like seeing the high (255+) oil temps whle on the highway (all but about 200 miles of off-highway time). Since I moved up from the GM 2.8 D-max, I had some leftover Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 and thought why the hell not use it. After some internet research, including looking at the Amsoil DexosD 5W-30 which also fills the 5W-30 requirement for the 2.8, I did a mid-mileage change over. I have no hard data but my iDash shows it running cooler when towing. While it still gets up around 250, it takes longer and cools faster than the 0W-20. My mileage, as compared on the DIC, has not dropped. It actually looks like it has gone up a bit but, again, I have no hard data. Just running the same 20 miles to work and back. On a 180 mile round trip to a not-so-local lake at 70-75 mph, I averaged 17+ mpg while other similar trips were lower (14-15).

One thing I did turn up while researching using 5W-30 was that GM Standard GMW18006 Dexos D Diesel Engine Oil includes 5W-30. Since they don't have any other references to it, my thought is they have it tucked away to hedge their bets on 0W-20 like Doge/Ram. I'll be sticking to with the Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 for the foreseeable future.

https://standards.globalspec.com/std/14345492/gmw18006

 
Based on what I've read here, some additional research, and cost considerations, I'm going to go with Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX 0W-30 ($50 for a case of 6 quarts on Amazon) for my next oil change. It's MB 229-51/52, Porsche c30 and VW 507 00. OCI will be 5K miles. But in winter I'll dilute it with GM's Dexos-D 0w-20 (4 qts Pennzoil to 3 qts. Dexos-D). I'll do an oil analysis at the next change as well. Appreciate all the responses.
 
Based on what I've read here, some additional research, and cost considerations, I'm going to go with Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX 0W-30 ($50 for a case of 6 quarts on Amazon) for my next oil change. It's MB 229-51/52, Porsche c30 and VW 507 00. OCI will be 5K miles. But in winter I'll dilute it with GM's Dexos-D 0w-20 (4 qts Pennzoil to 3 qts. Dexos-D). I'll do an oil analysis at the next change as well. Appreciate all the responses.
Dilute it for what reason?

Mixing oils will also not guarantee that the mixture will continue to meet any of the approvals or licenses either of the individual oils have. There is never an upside to mixing oils other than just getting it off your shelf.
 
Based on what I've read here, some additional research, and cost considerations, I'm going to go with Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX 0W-30 ($50 for a case of 6 quarts on Amazon) for my next oil change. It's MB 229-51/52, Porsche c30 and VW 507 00. OCI will be 5K miles. But in winter I'll dilute it with GM's Dexos-D 0w-20 (4 qts Pennzoil to 3 qts. Dexos-D). I'll do an oil analysis at the next change as well. Appreciate all the responses.
I wouldn't
Blend. Ultimately your already running a 0w so no worries for winter starting. I’ll be going to esp 5w30 shortly.
 
New to the forum Have a GM 3.0 Duramax and was running the DexosD 0W-20. I have 12000 miles on it now. First oil change I did myself at 2500 miles. Free dealership oil change at 7500. Took a 1800 mile trip towing my 4600 lb boat and didn't like seeing the high (255+) oil temps whle on the highway (all but about 200 miles of off-highway time). Since I moved up from the GM 2.8 D-max, I had some leftover Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 and thought why the hell not use it. After some internet research, including looking at the Amsoil DexosD 5W-30 which also fills the 5W-30 requirement for the 2.8, I did a mid-mileage change over. I have no hard data but my iDash shows it running cooler when towing. While it still gets up around 250, it takes longer and cools faster than the 0W-20. My mileage, as compared on the DIC, has not dropped. It actually looks like it has gone up a bit but, again, I have no hard data. Just running the same 20 miles to work and back. On a 180 mile round trip to a not-so-local lake at 70-75 mph, I averaged 17+ mpg while other similar trips were lower (14-15).

One thing I did turn up while researching using 5W-30 was that GM Standard GMW18006 Dexos D Diesel Engine Oil includes 5W-30. Since they don't have any other references to it, my thought is they have it tucked away to hedge their bets on 0W-20 like Doge/Ram. I'll be sticking to with the Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 for the foreseeable future.

https://standards.globalspec.com/std/14345492/gmw18006

I’m really tempted to pay to see that. Really curious what the dexos D specs really are. Like you said they are pushing the 0w20 but for all we know there’s already a ton of 5w30s that “meet” their spec but without paying I can’t find any free source for that
 
This is interesting. I've just signed for a new Vauxhall Insignia (same car as the Buick Regal) with a 1.5 3 cylinder diesel engine. Chamber size and stroke is the same as the 3.0 Duramax so I would hazard a guess that this little engine is going to be heavily related to it. It too specifies DexosD 0w20 oil and straight away I looked at it and made the decision that I will run a Dexos2 oil in it.
 
As luck would have it I just found a sale on Mobil 1 ESP 0w-30, which has all the good (European diesel) specs, so just bought 4 cases. Guess I won't blend either, but now I've got 15 quarts of the 0w-20 Dexos-D stuff that I need to find a use for (bought it before I realized it had the viscosity of water). Have some Honda's that call for 0w-20 though.
 
As luck would have it I just found a sale on Mobil 1 ESP 0w-30, which has all the good (European diesel) specs, so just bought 4 cases. Guess I won't blend either, but now I've got 15 quarts of the 0w-20 Dexos-D stuff that I need to find a use for (bought it before I realized it had the viscosity of water). Have some Honda's that call for 0w-20 though.
Well it’s definitely not the viscosity of water. Besides it’s really about the HT/HS which is what, 2.6 for dexos D? That would be (as Honda puts it) “adequate” under most circumstances.
 
I have a question; If this engine was used in an industrial application such as driving an air pump in a body shop or running an irrigation pump 24/7
would the recommended engine oil be 0w20?
 
I'm running A3/B4 oil in my DPF equipped FCA diesel for over 100k now... dpf is not showing any signs of crapping out yet.
I was really suprised when my friend told me hes running Castrol edge 0w-30 A5 oil in hes volvo v70 diesel with dpf. I told him hows your dpf? he told me that same oil have been since new and he have over 400k km on the car. Hows this even possible🤷
 
I was really suprised when my friend told me hes running Castrol edge 0w-30 A5 oil in hes volvo v70 diesel with dpf. I told him hows your dpf? he told me that same oil have been since new and he have over 400k km on the car. Hows this even possible🤷

Ford used WSS-M2C913C/D oils in their diesels right up till 2016. Even those with DPF's with very little issues. These oils have a SAPS usually around 1.3% and are based on ACEA A5/B5.
 
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