Thumping/clunking from rear end area what could it be?

Yes, pretty much. The electric clutch (rear coupling) is basically full on / full off. It kicks the rear end in if front wheel slip is detected.
This seems to be the new blueprint for cute utes. The Kia in the SMA vid was the same way if I understand correctly. Also it seems people on a budget often just remove the rear d/s if problems arise and Voila! -- instant "conversion" to a factory 2wd with no ill effects.
 
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Yes, pretty much. The electric clutch (rear coupling) is basically full on / full off. It kicks the rear end in if front wheel slip is detected.
Could this problem be exasperated by driving in AUTO 4WD? I remember the OP stating he uses AUTO more often.

Me personally, I always use 2WD/2HI unless I know I will be experiencing poor driving conditions.

Maybe the PCM was sensing wheel slip during ownership by the previous owner either by having mix-matched tires with 2 more worn than the other 2, or other possible wheel speed sensor problems.. .no idea, just tossing out ideas leading up to this issue.
 
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Could this problem be exasperated by driving in AUTO 4WD? I remember the OP stating he uses AUTO more often.

Me personally, I always use 2WD/2HI unless I know I will be experiencing poor driving conditions.

Maybe the PCM was sensing wheel slip during ownership by the previous owner either by having mix-matched tires with 2 more worn than the other 2, or other possible wheel speed sensor problems.. .no idea, just tossing out ideas leading up to this issue.

Based on what I've followed online with the R52 platform pathfinder, keeping it in auto 4x4 does seem to lead to more problems with the coupler. I don't know if it's controllers keeps it partially energized this way, or it just gets cycled too much in this mode when it shouldn't. All it has is a two pin connector to it. I assume a PWM power and ground.

There's very little info online in regards to these couplers. What is there is just remove and replace. I'd love to see one apart.
 
So on that note, going forward I will only drive in 2WD mode unless I actually need 4WD. Which is rare anyway.

I only ever kept it in auto because in auto I got slightly better mpg than 2wd.
 
I only ever kept it in auto because in auto I got slightly better mpg than 2wd.
I have to question those results. Trying to understand how this would be possible unless you were regularly experiencing wheel spin (which TC would likely kill with the brakes or throttle control anyway)
 
Latest update

Rear diff arrived yesterday, the shop is down to two techs and one new hire, it'll be done sometime next week as there's 5 transmission jobs ahead of me, but since mine will only take about 4 hours they'll see if I can be done first.

However because of how long I've been waiting I am getting a free detail out of this.
 
Run thru automatic car wash, tire shine and vacuum.
I work at a paper mill so I gave up on keeping it clean, the most I do anymore is wipe down the dash and windows maybe once a month.

Even if they just did that I won't complain.
 
Hopefully, the final update.

It got pushed out a couple days because the car ahead of mine ran into new issues and needed more parts. Even though mine was already up in the air, the issue was known, and all parts were already on hand but whatever. I guess this dealership's shop is down to one master tech, one oil change guy and a new hire.

Finally, it got finished up today, however, with my work schedule I won't be able to pick it up until Thursday.

Just glad to have my car back and not be driving mom's untinted 4-banger fishbowl.
 
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Got to the dealership today when they opened, was told everything was getting finalized and it's being prepped for the road test and to come back around 3.

Mind y'all, it was supposed to be completely done back on Tuesday and that's what I was told, multiple times.

Ugh!
 
They just called me. They took it on a test drive and it's still making noise so this just turned into a transfer case replacement as well. I'm ready to cry now.

When I suggested it could be be the transfer case way back in this thread, you had mentioned you changed the transfer case gear oil regularly. This is an odd failure if you kept up on it's gear oil changes. I feel for ya, but you've been firing an extremely expensive parts cannon. That rear diff had to be $3-4K and the T-case will be $4K easy at a Nissan dealer.
 
When I suggested it could be be the transfer case way back in this thread, you had mentioned you changed the transfer case gear oil regularly. This is an odd failure if you kept up on it's gear oil changes. I feel for ya, but you've been firing an extremely expensive parts cannon. That rear diff had to be $3-4K and the T-case will be $4K easy at a Nissan dealer.
Rear diff was 2400 the estimate for the parts and labor for the rear diff already was 3700

God knows how much the t case is about to add... They did offer to get me a used t case for about half the cost of a new one and they're going to call me back in a bit with the quote for that
 
Finally some good news for once.

A good friend of mine, who happens to be a service advisor at the Nissan dealer I bought the Pathfinder at back when I lived in Ohio, reached out.

After some string pulling and phone calls, the lifetime powertrain warranty from the dealer I originally bought it from, SHOULD be fully covering all of this now, out here!!!

The rear end, coupler, transfer case, and also the transmission is fully covered until 999,999 miles, $0 deductible also. Which also means I'll be getting a brand new t case and not a used unit.

Gonna go buy a lottery ticket now.
 
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