Tie Rods, Swaybar Links, Rack, or Strut Mount?

[BrendanC]

As a follow up - I finally gave in and replaced the intermediate steering shaft. The steering kept getting looser since February and had ~2" play. Once I had the old steering shaft out, I could clearly see the lower universal joint had a bushing failure / excessive play. Kind of disappointing for a 2016 Lexus with 72,500 miles that has never been driven hard.

It's a fairly easy DIY job. I drove my RX up on ramps, and the steering shaft bolt at the rack was easily accessible from the drivers side tire well with a socket extension (12 mm bolt and probably 12" extension). You don't even have to remove the wheel. I first marked the orientation with a touch up paint pen at the rack and used the seat belt to hold the steering wheel. From underneath the car I used a pry bar and hammer to slide the shaft off the rack once the bolt was removed.

From inside remove the lower dash trim, remove an HVAC duct, mark the back of the column and shaft with the touch up paint pen, and remove the bolt. You can then use a screwdriver in the u-joint to pry it out from behind the column if it's tight (mine just pulled off, but in the end I had to remove the shaft a few times as you'll read following).

I transferred the paint marks from the old shaft to the new one to install the new shaft at the exact same orientation (although presuming the steering wheel and tires didn't move it probably wasn't needed). My first time was not perfect so don't tighten the bolt completely at the steering column and take it for a short test drive. I had to pull the shaft off behind the steering column and realign it one notch to bring the wheel to centre.

Once everything is aligned torque the upper and lower bolts to 26 ft-lbs.

The OEM intermediate steering shaft is part 45220-0E110. I should also warn people that the aftermarket steering shaft that is available from Rockland did not fit my vehicle. It is slightly larger diameter at the base, and rubbed very very slightly at the firewall. Let's just say I got pretty good at changing out the steering shaft since I removed my old one, put in the aftermarket one, readjusted the aftermarket one, took it out since it rubbed, reinstalled my old one, and then installed the new one, and readjusted the new one...

One other lesson learned - when I reinstalled my old shaft for a week the steering wheel was clearly off centre. I took it for a test drive and it immediately set off a bunch of errors on the dash (not a good day). I had to get my OBD connected as the error was due to the steering wheel sensor noting it was off centre and disabled the collision mitigation system and lane departure. Once I recentered the wheel and cleared the code it has not come back

The dealer recommended getting an alignment when you replace the steering shaft. I'm not sure why. You don't change the wheel toe or camber. You're just replacing the shaft between the rack and steering wheel. Worst case is it's slightly off centre and you have to realign it one notch. The Toyota Service Bulletins do not recommend / require an alignment.

Anyway - knock on wood - it's hopefully fixed now.

i wouldn’t worry about an alignment, worst comes to worse you can spin each tie rid the same amount and straighten the steering wheel.

 

[D60]

As a follow up - I finally gave in and replaced the intermediate steering shaft. The steering kept getting looser since February and had ~2" play. Once I had the old steering shaft out, I could clearly see the lower universal joint had a bushing failure / excessive play. Kind of disappointing for a 2016 Lexus with 72,500 miles that has never been driven hard.

It's a fairly easy DIY job. I drove my RX up on ramps, and the steering shaft bolt at the rack was easily accessible from the drivers side tire well with a socket extension (12 mm bolt and probably 12" extension). You don't even have to remove the wheel. I first marked the orientation with a touch up paint pen at the rack and used the seat belt to hold the steering wheel. From underneath the car I used a pry bar and hammer to slide the shaft off the rack once the bolt was removed.

From inside remove the lower dash trim, remove an HVAC duct, mark the back of the column and shaft with the touch up paint pen, and remove the bolt. You can then use a screwdriver in the u-joint to pry it out from behind the column if it's tight (mine just pulled off, but in the end I had to remove the shaft a few times as you'll read following).

I transferred the paint marks from the old shaft to the new one to install the new shaft at the exact same orientation (although presuming the steering wheel and tires didn't move it probably wasn't needed). My first time was not perfect so don't tighten the bolt completely at the steering column and take it for a short test drive. I had to pull the shaft off behind the steering column and realign it one notch to bring the wheel to centre.

Once everything is aligned torque the upper and lower bolts to 26 ft-lbs.

The OEM intermediate steering shaft is part 45220-0E110. I should also warn people that the aftermarket steering shaft that is available from Rockland did not fit my vehicle. It is slightly larger diameter at the base, and rubbed very very slightly at the firewall. Let's just say I got pretty good at changing out the steering shaft since I removed my old one, put in the aftermarket one, readjusted the aftermarket one, took it out since it rubbed, reinstalled my old one, and then installed the new one, and readjusted the new one...

One other lesson learned - when I reinstalled my old shaft for a week the steering wheel was clearly off centre. I took it for a test drive and it immediately set off a bunch of errors on the dash (not a good day). I had to get my OBD connected as the error was due to the steering wheel sensor noting it was off centre and disabled the collision mitigation system and lane departure. Once I recentered the wheel and cleared the code it has not come back

The dealer recommended getting an alignment when you replace the steering shaft. I'm not sure why. You don't change the wheel toe or camber. You're just replacing the shaft between the rack and steering wheel. Worst case is it's slightly off centre and you have to realign it one notch. The Toyota Service Bulletins do not recommend / require an alignment.

Anyway - knock on wood - it's hopefully fixed now.

I lifted my Wrangler JL and initially didn't adjust the drag link to center the wheel. Traction control was freaking out and would sometimes even apply individual brakes to try to steer the vehicle.

 

[michaelluscher]

Toyota never could get intermediate shafts right
There was updated parts, TSBs for greasing with a long syringe and this thick white tacky grease

I went through at least two on my Camry, plus occasional greasing
Disconnecting and moving it's splined portion in/out moves the grease around and shuts it up for ~1 year or so
If the U joints themselves wear/develop play or dry out and bind, I've seen 4Runners that were almost impossible to steer, it was binding so badly

Good find OP

 

[michaelluscher]

I lifted my Wrangler JL and initially didn't adjust the drag link to center the wheel. Traction control was freaking out and would sometimes even apply individual brakes to try to steer the vehicle.

"Steering angle reset" is becoming more and more important with ADAS and more fussy ESP systems

Either teach it what straight is (reset) or adjust the components to have the vehicle drive straight when it thinks it is (adjustment)

A mid tier scan tool, or a competent stop does a SAR after an alignment on vehicles that need it done manually