Thumping/clunking from rear end area what could it be?
- Thread starter cwilliamsws6
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That makes more sense. The rear coupling is the electromagnetic clutch bolted to the input of the rear diff. It simply turns 4x4 on/off. Problem is, it's got non serviceable bearing in it that can fail, and your out a $2000 coupler.
I'm mentally exhausted at this point and I don't know what or whom to believe. Just got more news from Nissan. So despite the rear differential being the actual problem, apparently it actually has had CVT judder for a couple months now. But the judder is so minor that I haven't even noticed it. Not going to bother replacing the transmission, just doing the rear differential and whenever the CVT blows apart completely then I'll address it.
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You certainly get worked up very easily...
If the CVT was in fact underfilled by the dealer who performed the service, then you do have evidence that there is an issue.
If the CVT is still under warranty, why isn't the judder being addressed?
This whole situation has been such a rollercoaster of ******** and I'm at my limit
CVT isn't under warranty apparently the warranty on a replaced CVT is 12 months or 12K and I'm past both
They're saying it's not underfilled
Stand outside it and have someone go forward and reverse.
Stupid question most likely but I got to thinking earlier
Is it possible that the clunking and front end lurching from my rear diff breaking down could have falsely set off the judder code...???
Is it possible that the clunking and front end lurching from my rear diff breaking down could have falsely set off the judder code...???
It’s possible. If you’re feeling adventurous it’s possible to inspect the CVT chain without removing it from the vehicle. I will say Nissan puts out some nicely detailed TSB’s, the ones I’ve seen for my Mopar’s are text only.
Could be a fun project for my next round of days off...
I've had a few people including ex-Nissan coworkers from my dealership shop days tell me that the judder code absolutely could be a false alarm from the rear diff confetti'ing itself, so I can only hope it's true. Since I have a scan tool capable of doing so, I plan on clearing the code and seeing if it comes back then I'll know for sure.
Regardless, since I have had no noticeable judder or drivability issues I'm still sticking to the plan of just getting the rear diff done, then if something does happen to the CVT down the line I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.
Regardless, since I have had no noticeable judder or drivability issues I'm still sticking to the plan of just getting the rear diff done, then if something does happen to the CVT down the line I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.
I'm more confused than normal at the moment... You confirmed with me earlier that the rear differential is fine and it's the rear coupling that's the actual problem.
Even though the diff/coupling are bolted together, they are totally separate components.
If the rear coupling is binding up, it will indeed put a ton of drag on the CVT. The transfer case and prop shaft to the rear spin any time the front wheels are rolling. It's a basic, old school part time 4x4 system on the R52 pathfinder even though they market it as "AWD".
You can remove the rear prop shaft from the vehicle and drive it like that no problem to see if the situation improves. This will separate the front and rear drivetrains.
Even though the diff/coupling are bolted together, they are totally separate components.
If the rear coupling is binding up, it will indeed put a ton of drag on the CVT. The transfer case and prop shaft to the rear spin any time the front wheels are rolling. It's a basic, old school part time 4x4 system on the R52 pathfinder even though they market it as "AWD".
You can remove the rear prop shaft from the vehicle and drive it like that no problem to see if the situation improves. This will separate the front and rear drivetrains.
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I'm more confused than normal at the moment too. Between both shops I've been told like 6 different things now so I'm not sure what to believe anymore I'm truly thinking the rear diff / coupling / whatever issue caused the CVT to falsely set off the judder code. At least I'll hold onto that hope for now...
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