Thumping/clunking from rear end area what could it be?

[cwilliamsws6]

Ill post back here once it's back from the shop and I found out what it was. There's just too many possibilities of what it can be and with everyone's work schedules at the house a DIY repair isn't gonna happen. I called around to multiple shops in town and the soonest I can get in is July 11th so I took that.

 

[JTK]

Check the plastic shields / deflectors on the rear lower control arms. The fasteners can come loose and they can flap around.

There are also splash guards in front of the rear wheels that can do the same thing.

You don't hear much in the way of rear suspension issues with the 2013+ Pathfinder aside from rotted out rear subframes.

 

[cwilliamsws6]

I decided to roll the dice and drive it to work tonight and the clunking noise suddenly grew much louder and it's happening full time whether I'm on the gas or not. Auto awd and 4wd both still work so I don't think it's the t case or rear diff.

Having a coworker follow me home when we get off in the morning in case this turns into me needing to be pushed up to my house...

Then it's gonna stay parked until the 11th.

 

[i6pwr]

Have you performed regular CVT fluid changes? Mileage?

Hopefully it isn't the transmission slipping and grabbing and the end result is the driveline clunking under sudden torque.

That would be worst case OP, but I trust this "clunk" you hear is something rattling around back there.

Spare tire loose?

 

[cwilliamsws6]

Have you performed regular CVT fluid changes? Mileage?

Hopefully it isn't the transmission slipping and grabbing and the end result is the driveline clunking under sudden torque.

That would be worst case OP, but I trust this "clunk" you hear is something rattling around back there.

CVT was replaced at 87K miles when the previous owners traded it in because it blew up and they didn't want to pay to fix it.

Got fluid changed at the dealer for the first time with the new CVT at 110K, at 113K currently.

Doesn't feel like it's slipping because drivability wise nothing has changed except it's just noisy as hell all of a sudden.

 

[cwilliamsws6]

Driving home from work this morning something definitely broke loose for real or is binding up and about to break, the clunking noise is much louder now and with each clunk my front end lurches almost as if I tapped the brakes real fast.

So much for getting to relax on my days off... looks like I'm tearing into it myself now instead of waiting til the 11th.

 

[i6pwr]

Ouch.

Just throwing out ideas, but do you have two different size tires, maybe 2 new ones, and drive around in A4WD?

Sounds like it could be driveline binding but again, hard to tell.

 

[D60]

Driving home from work this morning something definitely broke loose for real or is binding up and about to break, the clunking noise is much louder now and with each clunk my front end lurches almost as if I tapped the brakes real fast.

So much for getting to relax on my days off... looks like I'm tearing into it myself now instead of waiting til the 11th.

Meh, whatever it is just keep driving and it'll self-clearance and free up.

Just kidding...was leaning toward rear end but now your description sounds like front end? Maybe a wheel bearing or half-shaft?

 

[PimTac]

Muffler hangers are all good, jack and lug wrench are all secure, rear hatch is fine, carrier bearing rubber is dry rotted but doesn't look too bad otherwise...

between my dad's work schedule and mine we both opted to just pay and make it a shop's problem. Luckily I make enough that having a shop do the work isn't an issue. And mom is out of town so I have her car as a loaner until mine is fixed ... LOL

How about the spare tire?

 

[cwilliamsws6]

Tires are all the same size, got 4 new tires about 20K miles ago they all match

Yeah the noise started out sounding like it was coming from the rear but it's definitely the front now

Spare tire is tight

 

[PimTac]

Check your front hubs.

 

[i6pwr]

Do you drive around in 2WD or A (Auto)4WD?

 

[cwilliamsws6]

Do you drive around in 2WD or A (Auto)4WD?

Usually Auto4WD however I tried 2WD mode and even locked it in 4WD and the clunking and binding up is present regardless and definitely coming from the front now

Both front CV axles look fine visually but I guess it is possible one of them maybe grenaded without ripping the rubber boot...sounds unlikely though right?

 

[cwilliamsws6]

Here is a video I got of the noise the other day, before it got way worse to the point it is now. At the time this video was taken it was just making the noise, the front end wasnt binding up and causing lurching.

 

[i6pwr]

Check for a loose brake caliper, maybe a missing caliper bolt.

Sounds like it follows tire rotation speed, and if the rotor is even slightly warped, it would grab the pads and move the caliper if not secured.

Maybe a binding CV joint? Are any of the CV boots torn?

 

[cwilliamsws6]

Check for a loose brake caliper, maybe a missing caliper bolt.

Sounds like it follows tire rotation speed, and if the rotor is even slightly warped, it would grab the pads and move the caliper if not secured.

Maybe a binding CV joint? Are any of the CV boots torn?

Caliper bolts all present and secure. Everything at the moment is pointing towards a binding CV joint however none of the boots are torn. Visually, nothing looks wrong at all.

 

[i6pwr]

Usually Auto4WD

Maybe others more versed in Nissan drivelines can chime in, but many vehicles I have dealt with, when in A4WD, your 4WD system is partially engaged, mainly the front wheels and allows a clutch in the transfer case to fully engage the system when slip is detected.

If that's how Nissan does their vehicles, especially the Pathfinder....IMHO, it's best to use 2WD unless you expect slippery driving conditions like snow, ice, gravel etc.

 

[JTK]

The transfer cases can be a weak link on 2013+ pathfinders. I've got a few posts on this topic. They only hold ounces of 80w90 gear oil and if never serviced, will become an issue eventually. Replacement T cases are $2k+ and double that for R/R unfortunately.

The tcase is sandwiched between the front right CV shaft and CVT and the gears in it are rolling any time the vehicle's wheels are rolling.

 

[cwilliamsws6]

The transfer cases can be a weak link on 2013+ pathfinders. I've got a few posts on this topic. They only hold ounces of 80w90 gear oil and if never serviced, will become an issue eventually. Replacement T cases are $2k+ and double that for R/R unfortunately.

The tcase is sandwiched between the front right CV shaft and CVT and the gears in it are rolling any time the vehicle's wheels are rolling.

Luckily unlike most stereotypical nissan owners I maintain mine and change the T case fluid fairly often.

Here's what gets me though. At the beginning the noise was CLEARLY coming from the BACK END, now it's 100% up front

 

[D60]

If it's a CV you should be able to detect something by elevating the vehicle and independently spinning each front wheel by hand.

It may disappear at full droop or get worse at full droop, so I'd jack both under the control arm (weighted) and from the frame (unweighted) to see what happens.