With a mild boost I recommend not to go thinner. The HTHS differance is miniscule. It should not cause any issue.
Thicker or lighter oil? 0w-40 or 0w-30
- Thread starter TheMidnightNarwh
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Originally Posted by Gokhan
Both German Castrol 0W-30 nor German Castrol 0W-40 are thick oils, as they are ACEA A3/B4, which requires HTHSV >= 3.5 cP...
GC 0W30 hasn't been available for several years and, reportedly, Castrol has stopped producing Edge 0W30 A3/B4 although I still see some listed on Amazon.
Both German Castrol 0W-30 nor German Castrol 0W-40 are thick oils, as they are ACEA A3/B4, which requires HTHSV >= 3.5 cP...
GC 0W30 hasn't been available for several years and, reportedly, Castrol has stopped producing Edge 0W30 A3/B4 although I still see some listed on Amazon.
You're out of warranty and already pushing more boost, why not just use a heavy duty oil like this?
https://www.chevronlubricants.com/en_us/home/products/delo-400-xsp-sae-5w-30.html
https://www.chevronlubricants.com/en_us/home/products/delo-400-xsp-sae-5w-30.html
Originally Posted by KrisZ
Thicker oil doesn't not warm up slower. Please stop repeating this myth. If a fluid is more viscous and harder to pump, it means that it will generate more pumping losses and those losses are represented by more heat.
The whole premise behind 0w20, 0w16 oils is to generate less pumping losses, ...
You're correct about thicker oil and warm-up, but not about pumping loss, which is fairly insignificant compared to viscous losses in bearings.
Thicker oil doesn't not warm up slower. Please stop repeating this myth. If a fluid is more viscous and harder to pump, it means that it will generate more pumping losses and those losses are represented by more heat.
The whole premise behind 0w20, 0w16 oils is to generate less pumping losses, ...
You're correct about thicker oil and warm-up, but not about pumping loss, which is fairly insignificant compared to viscous losses in bearings.
Originally Posted by Oildudeny
You're out of warranty and already pushing more boost, why not just use a heavy duty oil like this?
https://www.chevronlubricants.com/en_us/home/products/delo-400-xsp-sae-5w-30.html
Okay but why?
You're out of warranty and already pushing more boost, why not just use a heavy duty oil like this?
https://www.chevronlubricants.com/en_us/home/products/delo-400-xsp-sae-5w-30.html
Okay but why?
Originally Posted by Gokhan
The main difference is the viscosity-index improver (VII) content. 0W-40 has 50% more VII than 0W-30..
How did you work out the 50% more VII figure ?
The main difference is the viscosity-index improver (VII) content. 0W-40 has 50% more VII than 0W-30..
How did you work out the 50% more VII figure ?
Originally Posted by NGRhodes
Originally Posted by Gokhan
The main difference is the viscosity-index improver (VII) content. 0W-40 has 50% more VII than 0W-30.
How did you work out the 50% more VII figure ?
GC 0W-30 A_Harman index = 0.92 (8% VII temporary shear)
GC 0W-40 A_Harman index = 0.88 (12% VII temporary shear)
Originally Posted by Gokhan
The main difference is the viscosity-index improver (VII) content. 0W-40 has 50% more VII than 0W-30.
How did you work out the 50% more VII figure ?
GC 0W-30 A_Harman index = 0.92 (8% VII temporary shear)
GC 0W-40 A_Harman index = 0.88 (12% VII temporary shear)
Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwh
Originally Posted by Oildudeny
You're out of warranty and already pushing more boost, why not just use a heavy duty oil like this?
https://www.chevronlubricants.com/en_us/home/products/delo-400-xsp-sae-5w-30.html
Okay but why?
Why not
Originally Posted by Oildudeny
You're out of warranty and already pushing more boost, why not just use a heavy duty oil like this?
https://www.chevronlubricants.com/en_us/home/products/delo-400-xsp-sae-5w-30.html
Okay but why?
Why not
A 0w30(my recommendation) will hold up to your conditions with ease rest assured.
My hard working/hauling vortec 3500 454 sees nothing but 0w30! @6-8k OCI
My hard working/hauling vortec 3500 454 sees nothing but 0w30! @6-8k OCI
Originally Posted by Oildudeny
You're out of warranty and already pushing more boost, why not just use a heavy duty oil like this?
https://www.chevronlubricants.com/en_us/home/products/delo-400-xsp-sae-5w-30.html
Wow! What a good looking oil...
You're out of warranty and already pushing more boost, why not just use a heavy duty oil like this?
https://www.chevronlubricants.com/en_us/home/products/delo-400-xsp-sae-5w-30.html
Wow! What a good looking oil...
Originally Posted by Oildudeny
Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwh
Originally Posted by Oildudeny
You're out of warranty and already pushing more boost, why not just use a heavy duty oil like this?
https://www.chevronlubricants.com/en_us/home/products/delo-400-xsp-sae-5w-30.html
Okay but why?
Why not
Because it's not BMW LL01 nor 0W
Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwh
Originally Posted by Oildudeny
You're out of warranty and already pushing more boost, why not just use a heavy duty oil like this?
https://www.chevronlubricants.com/en_us/home/products/delo-400-xsp-sae-5w-30.html
Okay but why?
Why not
Because it's not BMW LL01 nor 0W
Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwh
Originally Posted by javacontour
I say the same. The most important number in winter is the 0W and if the 0w40 is holding up in the summer, it will hold up in winter as well. You are now taking advantage of the 0w portion of the design.
Originally Posted by jeepman3071
I would stick with what you are running. Castrol 0w40 meets BMW LL-01 and is a great oil.
I appreciate the replies! But guys I am clearly mentioning in my original thread that my other oil choice is still a 0w oil, it would be 0w-30. So I will still be taking advantage of the 0w.
But if the castrol 0w-40 is such a great oil I suppose I will keep it. I barely have time to floor it though when I go shopping or things like that because how long is takes to warm up, it sucks.
0w-30 may take the same amount of time to warm up....thing is you can't know for sure without any testing. In your situation I'd stick with the 40.
Originally Posted by javacontour
I say the same. The most important number in winter is the 0W and if the 0w40 is holding up in the summer, it will hold up in winter as well. You are now taking advantage of the 0w portion of the design.
Originally Posted by jeepman3071
I would stick with what you are running. Castrol 0w40 meets BMW LL-01 and is a great oil.
I appreciate the replies! But guys I am clearly mentioning in my original thread that my other oil choice is still a 0w oil, it would be 0w-30. So I will still be taking advantage of the 0w.
But if the castrol 0w-40 is such a great oil I suppose I will keep it. I barely have time to floor it though when I go shopping or things like that because how long is takes to warm up, it sucks.
0w-30 may take the same amount of time to warm up....thing is you can't know for sure without any testing. In your situation I'd stick with the 40.
Originally Posted by Oildudeny
Why is a 40 even a thought? What temps you driving in? Just run your 0w30 in Canada.
Why what is wrong with 40 in Canada? Isn't 40 going to provide better wear protection for when I floor it and drive aggressive the summer.
Why is a 40 even a thought? What temps you driving in? Just run your 0w30 in Canada.
Why what is wrong with 40 in Canada? Isn't 40 going to provide better wear protection for when I floor it and drive aggressive the summer.
Last edited:
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted by Oildudeny
Why is a 40 even a thought? What temps you driving in? Just run your 0w30 in Canada.
Because it's the OEM approved lubricant? Good Lord, my SRT also calls for 0w-40, and I'm in Canada.
Why is a 40 even a thought? What temps you driving in? Just run your 0w30 in Canada.
Because it's the OEM approved lubricant? Good Lord, my SRT also calls for 0w-40, and I'm in Canada.
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by Oildudeny
Why is a 40 even a thought? What temps you driving in? Just run your 0w30 in Canada.
Because it's the OEM approved lubricant? Good Lord, my SRT also calls for 0w-40, and I'm in Canada.
Yes this to, my manual lists a few grades and 0w-40 is the first listed.
I guess that's another reason to stick with 0w-40.
Originally Posted by Oildudeny
Why is a 40 even a thought? What temps you driving in? Just run your 0w30 in Canada.
Because it's the OEM approved lubricant? Good Lord, my SRT also calls for 0w-40, and I'm in Canada.
Yes this to, my manual lists a few grades and 0w-40 is the first listed.
I guess that's another reason to stick with 0w-40.
Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwh
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by Oildudeny
Why is a 40 even a thought? What temps you driving in? Just run your 0w30 in Canada.
Because it's the OEM approved lubricant? Good Lord, my SRT also calls for 0w-40, and I'm in Canada.
Yes this to, my manual lists a few grades and 0w-40 is the first listed.
I guess that's another reason to stick with 0w-40.
Good decision!
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by Oildudeny
Why is a 40 even a thought? What temps you driving in? Just run your 0w30 in Canada.
Because it's the OEM approved lubricant? Good Lord, my SRT also calls for 0w-40, and I'm in Canada.
Yes this to, my manual lists a few grades and 0w-40 is the first listed.
I guess that's another reason to stick with 0w-40.
Good decision!
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted by PimTac
What is exactly the time difference in warm up between 0w30 and 0w40? Is it really noticeable?
Given the 30 and 40 we are discussing are essentially interchangeable, probably not measurable.
What is exactly the time difference in warm up between 0w30 and 0w40? Is it really noticeable?
Given the 30 and 40 we are discussing are essentially interchangeable, probably not measurable.
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