The brainwashing has worked, out with the 5w20!

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Originally Posted By: ToyotaNSaturn
BuickGN, I do agree with you that it's thrown around as fact. SL dino's for the most part did shear back to a 20 grade, SM's...not so much.


I agree with you. I just see it stated as fact so much that if I were new to this site I would be asking myself why 5w-30 is made.
 
AEHass sent me a message with links to his information.

Well, even after reading his material, I am not totally convinced. I understand his reasoning and what he is trying to explain. But, even he says that the only real way to know anything is through a UOA.

My 3.0 vulcan is far from the machine(s) he is operating.
 
I'd probably run M1 0w30 for the same price vs their 5w30. 0W30 is probably a better oil.

FWIW, my 3.0 Tribute runs great on 5w20, 5w30, running 0w20 now in the winter, probably will run 0w30 in the summer. Really don't notice very much difference between the grades.
 
Also, how does anyone explain the GM 3.8 going 200,000+ on 10w30. That engine is a TANK and it loves 10w30. I have seen 3.8 engines get abused day in and day out, and still keep on ticking. They now call for 5w30. My other half has an 05 impy. I run 10w30 in it and the cap clearly states 5w30.

When I worked in the lube center during my undergrad work, I saw countless cars, of all makes/models, running Pennzoil 10w30 with well over 100K on then and they kept coming back every 3K miles.
 
Originally Posted By: Drew2000
I'd probably run M1 0w30 for the same price vs their 5w30 or 10w30. 0W30 is probably a better oil.

FWIW, my 3.0 Tribute runs great on 5w20, 5w30, running 0w20 now in the winter, probably will run 0w30 in the summer. Really don't notice very much difference between the grades.
 
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Originally Posted By: simple_gifts
Quote:

I have been trying to quench my thirst for knowledge


Take another sip



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The BITOG koolaid is going to be the death of me. Me agonizing over motor oil and my car doesn't give a rat's [censored] anyway.
 
Originally Posted By: 04SE
AEHass sent me a message with links to his information.

Well, even after reading his material, I am not totally convinced. I understand his reasoning and what he is trying to explain. But, even he says that the only real way to know anything is through a UOA.

My 3.0 vulcan is far from the machine(s) he is operating.


He is a very smart man and better educated than most on oil. But, he is a doctor, not a tribologist. I quit paying attention to him when he stated that HT/HS doesn't mean a whole lot (not his exact words) when some would argue it's the most important spec. No disrespect to Mr. Haas. He also openly states that he does not race his machines. You have to give it to a guy that experiments with a thin oil in a car that costs more than most houses though.

Maybe we should move toward HT/HS of the popular 30 and 20 wts. I personally would have no problem running Redline straight 20wt with it's super high for a 20wt HTHS.
 
I also own a vulcan 3.0 Taurus, and if you check my posts, you can easily see I'm not a big fan of thin. I own a repair center, and see these rascals almost every day.

BUT....

You live up north. If you want to run 5w30 in the summer, I have no objections. However, I think you would benefit greatly in the winter with the 5w20 conventional or any synthetic Xw20 or Xw30 weight product.
 
One winter I went from straight 30 to 25W-70.

Engine cranked slower, and lost around 10% fuel economy.
 
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