Switching from 0w-20 to 0w-30 experience

Do you have a link to these UOAs showing viscosity retention with fuel dilution? I'm just curious. I wasn't aware how an oil could stand up to fuel dilution (overcome physics).
Do you have a link to these UOAs showing viscosity retention with fuel dilution? I'm just curious. I wasn't aware how an oil could stand up to fuel dilution (overcome physics).
I'm not sure if your even talking about the same thing as me. If you grab lets say Mobil 1 AFE, Amsoil Signature and have same exact mileage, engine, climate the signature will retain it's viscosity and far less prone to falling out of grade. I mean where have you been with all the Euro Spec oil discussion? What your asking is like saying why is ESP better than EP.
 
Do you have a link to these UOAs showing viscosity retention with fuel dilution? I'm just curious. I wasn't aware how an oil could stand up to fuel dilution (overcome physics).
Here is my Subaru fuel diluting monster. First run was Amsoil SS 0w-20. Second Run was Amsoil OE 0w-20. As you can see Signature has better viscosity even with almost double the mileage and more fuel in it.

1755709799187.webp
 
I'm not sure if your even talking about the same thing as me. If you grab lets say Mobil 1 AFE, Amsoil Signature and have same exact mileage, engine, climate the signature will retain it's viscosity and far less prone to falling out of grade. I mean where have you been with all the Euro Spec oil discussion? What your asking is like saying why is ESP better than EP.
Maybe we were talking past each other. I was just trying to say that of all the fine qualities about Amsoil and Euro spec oils—and I'm not disputing it's an excellent oil and Euro specs aren't great—holding up against fuel dilution is not one of them. I just didn't think it was possible since you're just mixing a higher and lower viscosity fluid.

Your UOA seems very familiar. I feel like I discussed it with @kschachn before as an example of an oil doing well in the face of fuel dilution.

Interesting UOA. The OE did very well too, but getting close to falling out of grade on only 2800 miles. And the M1 AFE fell out of SAE 30 grade in 2800 miles. I have not seen anything really positive on that oil, honestly.

Why did you switch from Amsoil SS? Seems to be the ticket. Do you short trip a lot? That's a lot of fuel dilution...
 
How do boutiques stand up better against fuel dilution? Isn't it primarily just mixing a higher viscosity oil with a lower viscosity liquid (fuel)?

while it's partly that, you do get less blowby and fuel dilution with a higher viscosity oil. The slower the fuel migrates beyond the rings, the more of it will evaporate and stay in the cylinder
 
while it's partly that, you do get less blowby and fuel dilution with a higher viscosity oil. The slower the fuel migrates beyond the rings, the more of it will evaporate and stay in the cylinder
Why would the boutique be any thicker than another oil of the same grade?
 
Why would the boutique be any thicker than another oil of the same grade?

they have a naturally higher viscosity index, using PAO and esters vs at best group III. the area of the top compression ring is as hot as it gets. And why wouldn't you go up a grade anyway, if you're buying boutique? I sure did.
 
they have a naturally higher viscosity index, using PAO and esters vs at best group III. the area of the top compression ring is as hot as it gets. And why wouldn't you go up a grade anyway, if you're buying boutique? I sure did.
I don't follow. Why would you go up a grade if getting a boutique? Seems like you should feel safer with a thinner grade if anything no?
 
Maybe we were talking past each other. I was just trying to say that of all the fine qualities about Amsoil and Euro spec oils—and I'm not disputing it's an excellent oil and Euro specs aren't great—holding up against fuel dilution is not one of them. I just didn't think it was possible since you're just mixing a higher and lower viscosity fluid.

Your UOA seems very familiar. I feel like I discussed it with @kschachn before as an example of an oil doing well in the face of fuel dilution.

Interesting UOA. The OE did very well too, but getting close to falling out of grade on only 2800 miles. And the M1 AFE fell out of SAE 30 grade in 2800 miles. I have not seen anything really positive on that oil, honestly.

Why did you switch from Amsoil SS? Seems to be the ticket. Do you short trip a lot? That's a lot of fuel dilution...
I was never aware of fuel dilution phenomenon when I bought this car used at 21k. So I did a close to 5k run and sampled it thinking it was going to be perfect. So I decided I can do 3k max oil changes with cheaper oils. However I recently switched back to Amsoil products and experimenting with 5w30 and 10w30 Amsoil XL 20k formula see how it does with 5-6k runs.
 
I was never aware of fuel dilution phenomenon when I bought this car used at 21k. So I did a close to 5k run and sampled it thinking it was going to be perfect. So I decided I can do 3k max oil changes with cheaper oils. However I recently switched back to Amsoil products and experimenting with 5w30 and 10w30 Amsoil XL 20k formula see how it does with 5-6k runs.
That will be an interesting experiment. I'm curious to see how the XL does. The OE held its viscosity but only had 2800 miles on it.
 
Here is my Subaru fuel diluting monster. First run was Amsoil SS 0w-20. Second Run was Amsoil OE 0w-20. As you can see Signature has better viscosity even with almost double the mileage and more fuel in it.

View attachment 296314
Thanks for the data. The fuel dilution is pretty high. I recommend to use cost effective oil and do shorter interval. Probably Supertech, Kirkland, or NAPA oil every 5k miles is better than Whatever Superduper PAO oil at 10k OCI because the fuel dilution will be too high as the miles piled up.
 
Thanks for the data. The fuel dilution is pretty high. I recommend to use cost effective oil and do shorter interval. Probably Supertech, Kirkland, or NAPA oil every 5k miles is better than Whatever Superduper PAO oil at 10k OCI because the fuel dilution will be too high as the miles piled up.
Can you share with us how you came to this conclusion? He shows data showing that with DOUBLE the mileage, the Amsoil held its viscosity well, and with lower mileage the "cost effective oil" fell out of grade. Yet you are recommending that he use cheaper oil and change more frequently. How often do you recommend? Should he cut that interval on the M1 AFE down to 1000 miles and resample??
 
Off course not 1000 miles, probably 1099 miles. But I hypothese that no matter what oil, the fuel dilution will have the same effect to whatever oil we put on. Over 10+ samples, there will be a time that cheaper oil does better jobs than Amsoil or any brands.
The driving style and months winter/summer affect more than superduper or supervalue oil.
I prefer to use 0w30 or 0w40, and check until when it thinning out to 20 grade. Regardless brands and price.
 
Off course not 1000 miles, probably 1099 miles. But I hypothese that no matter what oil, the fuel dilution will have the same effect to whatever oil we put on. Over 10 samples, there will be a time that cheaper oil does better jobs than Amsoil or any brands.
The driving style and months winter/summer affect more than superduper or supervalue oil
Except he posted data literally to the exact opposite of what you are claiming here.
 
Except he posted data literally to the exact opposite of what you are claiming here.
In a way that cannot be correct. On its face fuel dilution is simple mixing of a lower viscosity fluid into one with a higher viscosity. Therefore one oil cannot resist that any differently than another.

There is degradation of the VM by the fuel which will have a permanent impact, but if the dilution is accurately known and if you know the virgin viscosity of the oil then its physics after that.

There is more to it than that but dilution is dilution.
 
In a way that cannot be correct. On its face fuel dilution is simple mixing of a lower viscosity fluid into one with a higher viscosity. Therefore one oil cannot resist that any differently than another.

There is degradation of the VM by the fuel which will have a permanent impact, but if the dilution is accurately known and if you know the virgin viscosity of the oil then its physics after that.

There is more to it than that but dilution is dilution.
How do you explain the result of the lower viscosity loss with Amsoil with more fuel dilution and twice the miles compared to M1 AFE then? I'm not trying to agitate here. Earnest question. Higher quality VMs with Amsoil so they hold up better to fuel dilution?
 
In a way that cannot be correct. On its face fuel dilution is simple mixing of a lower viscosity fluid into one with a higher viscosity. Therefore one oil cannot resist that any differently than another.

There is degradation of the VM by the fuel which will have a permanent impact, but if the dilution is accurately known and if you know the virgin viscosity of the oil then its physics after that.

There is more to it than that but dilution is dilution.
It’s going to dilute the base oil full stop - so I think most OTC lubricants will respond similarly … Wonder about a boutique that used mPAO in place of a typical VM …?
 
We may not have long data with 5+ UOA for the same oil. What important is to reduce the fuel dilution effect. Why not trying 0w40 or 0w30 if the fuel dilution is high. It mitigates the thinning effect, but the ethanol E10 contamination will affect more on how the ZDDP MoDTC layer formation on the metal surface. Ethanol in fuel does not help in oil life.
 
How do you explain the result of the lower viscosity loss with Amsoil with more fuel dilution and twice the miles compared to M1 AFE then? I'm not trying to agitate here. Earnest question. Higher quality VMs with Amsoil so they hold up better to fuel dilution?
Who knows. I’m not agitating either, but when you put a lower viscosity fluid into one of a higher viscosity, then there’s not much room for error.

Like I said there is more to it, but you can find out in various articles on the web.
 
Back
Top Bottom