Going back to 0w-20 for the winter

I'm an hour and half, give or take from you and originally from Flat Rock, so essentially the same weather. I probably take the same I75 route that you do as well going to FL. I'm doing something similar but am running 5w20 from June through Oct and switching back to 0w for the winter. I know, I know, 5weight will start at -40 and all that. I can still tell a big difference between a 0 and a 5 at minus 10.
I go by a jeep service bulletin that boiled down to make sure you don't use oil that gets thicker than 6,000cP at your coldest temperature expectations.
That's probably around -20f here. If it gets that cold I'm not going anywhere except to the wood pile with my wagon
There is a GREAT Ford video on YouTube where they ran a turbo ecoboost truck towing a trailer around a super speedway ( maybe Daytona?) at full throttle for like 24 hours straight. The turbos were glowing the entire time. In the crankcase? Regular motorcraft semi synthetic 5W20. No issues, no damage. Oil handled it just fine.
Yeah 20wt works great, till it doesn't.
 
There are far too many vehicles on the road running 0w20 for a statement like that. I understand its an " old school club" on here.
Its old school but it works. 10cSt at operating temperature is the way.
For my wife's car I was running 20wt in it till I found the oil was losing viscosity due to fuel dilution and other factors, one test the oil was 4cSt.
That's probably part of the reason Hyundai 2.0L Nu engines were doing spontaneous disassembly on the freeway.
As long as all the engines are always made perfect then 20wt works.
 
Gee, I'll just have to disagree :) .... 13' CRV AVD / K24 engine / now has 615, 020 on it. Let's see. New York . Avg temp 20 to 90 degrees with you're occasional heat wave of 95 for 3 -4 days. OW20 it's entire life. 20k // OW20 oil @ 3k OCI's with mostly OEM filters IF I catch them on sale ( very rarely ),,,,,,,,otherwise whatever filter that's on sale and I can buy in bulk.....,,,,no matter what name it is. Keep you're fancy schmancy testing...and enjoy every one of them tests....I have my own real time test.....still in progress. And it's a free test, minus the oil change. :)
 
Gee, I'll just have to disagree :) .... 13' CRV AVD / K24 engine / now has 615, 020 on it. Let's see. New York . Avg temp 20 to 90 degrees with you're occasional heat wave of 95 for 3 -4 days. OW20 it's entire life. 20k // OW20 oil @ 3k OCI's with mostly OEM filters IF I catch them on sale ( very rarely ),,,,,,,,otherwise whatever filter that's on sale and I can buy in bulk.....,,,,no matter what name it is. Keep you're fancy schmancy testing...and enjoy every one of them tests....I have my own real time test.....still in progress. And it's a free test, minus the oil change. :)
I’m sure it is fine, in that platform the specs on that engine are 185hp and 163ft lbs….vastly different than a 6.2L and the power it makes; all other factors aside.
 
I’m sure it is fine, in that platform the specs on that engine are 185hp and 163ft lbs….vastly different than a 6.2L and the power it makes; all other factors aside.

I still towed up 10,000 feet with a 5.3 towing 5,000 pounds at 90 degrees ambient temperature in a motor that gets 0w20.
Pretty good test for oil I would say................
 
I will go with Mobil 1 Extended Performance 0w20 for the winter OCI on my wife's Highlander. Makes perfect sense. Back to 5w30 EP for the other 2 OCI's for the remainder of the yer.
 
I’m sure it is fine, in that platform the specs on that engine are 185hp and 163ft lbs….vastly different than a 6.2L and the power it makes; all other factors aside.
I’m one for thick oils when necessary, but let’s not pretend the 6.2L is that power dense. People keep mentioning that. It isn’t. Many other engines make more HP/liter. The 6.2L makes under 70 hp/liter, it’s kind of a boat anchor. The engine in our Carnival makes about 84 naturally aspirated.

I’m not ragging on the engine. It’s huge and makes good power, but it’s not that complex and certainly isn’t stressed.
 
What were your oil temps? That’s the main factor for deciding whether a certain viscosity is appropriate or not.
It's what the manufacturer says to run. There is oil pressure and transmission temperature in the DIC. Also software that tells you to pull over if the motor gets too hot. It was a normal situation. Nothing indicated the motor was over heating-transmission temps were below 200. And the motor didn't blow up after a 45 minute pull up the mountain.
Seriously-don't know what you guys want
to know - it works.
You have someone with EXTENSIVE experience towing at elevation (running 0w20)-it's still not good enough.
 
It's what the manufacturer says to run. There is oil pressure and transmission temperature in the DIC. Also software that tells you to pull over if the motor gets too hot. It was a normal situation. Nothing indicated the motor was over heating-transmission temps were below 200. And the motor didn't blow up after a 45 minute pull up the mountain.
Seriously-don't know what you guys want
to know - it works.
You have someone with EXTENSIVE experience towing at elevation (running 0w20)-it's still not good enough.
You have proved that in your case, it may very well be good enough. I just ask about the oil temps because those can vary wildly between vehicles in the same operating conditions.
 
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