Two things I hate is 0w20 in a V8 and an unlocked footlocker.
Going back to 0w-20 for the winter
- Thread starter Klutch9
- Start date
AZjeff.....I needed a beater for my daughter to use for Senior Year of H.S......This 06' Camry / 2AZ-FE / 4cyl / 120k fit the bill. It has air bags, ABS, A/C, power windows, & a radio. What more does a 16 year old need ???? It cost me $ 1500 bucks, original owner, maintenance records, private sale ( 0 taxes ). Yes, I did some work on it. Brake pads, brake fluid flush, coolant flush, new serpentine belt, serviced the transmission. Nothing crazy. Has plenty of metal on it's skin to keep her safe. The body is straight. Passed the magnet test. The engine and transmission are solid. No leaks or slippage. What more does a 16 yr old girl need ???? Back and forth to school and to whatever job she will have at that particular time. Yes, there will be plenty of "new" or "newer" cars/ SUV's in her class. She is VERY happy that she is getting this and doesn't have to buy a car. Awwwww....,,,no back up camera ? She'll just turn her head and look back. Awwwww...no bluetooth ? She'll get used to it. She has to pay the insurance and gas. That alone will make her miserable. Tough noogies. So did her parents......Sux to grow up.
OK fair enough. Unfortunately the vehicle doesn't give me that information.
Said boat anchor does 0-60 in 5.4 seconds (per car and driver) and runs a 14 second 1/4 mile in a shoebox shaped pickup. Not stressed? You’re referring to almost 500 ft-lbs. of torque. People often have a distorted perception of power output due to technological advancements. Many are accustomed to seeing large hp/liter engines making impressive power with small displacement, while large V8s reaching 400-500 naturally aspirated are dismissed as insignificant. IMO an engine doesn’t have to make Lamborghini or Ferrari level power to justify a higher viscosity oil.
Last edited:
Basically, there is no meaningful downside stepping up from a 20 to a 30 in this scenario. This is especially true if experiencing fuel dilution like that; as the operating temp viscosity of the oil isn’t even a 20 grade oil anymore. It’s below the recommended grade now. Has the engine blown up yet though? Funny thing to wait for. Maybe it just wears out a little faster. What if that is real. Why ego a 20 in this context? Because any reasonable person looking at the evidence will say stepping up a grade is required to meet the manufacturer’s recommended grade in this situation. Unless you are in very cold winters, which still raises the question of longer warmup times and fuel dilution still being an issue or possibly worse in the winter; so to win both worlds get 0w but in a 30 grade. Where’s the lie?
I know this really isn’t the topic I switched back to 5w30 a while ago. My vehicles call for 0w20. Toyota 4Runner and Tundra. I just felt like 5w30. It’s been 4 years now no problems
Turbo on that one?
Which is never.
Not always, seen many accident scenes with many older vehicles holding up a lot better than newer ones, occupants included. 1 instance, I worked a very large pile up on the interstate, whiteout at 70mph. I saw a late 90s K1500 get smashed between 2 semi's; 1 semi going hwy speeds, the other almost stop and truck in the middle. Front end was bad and it bent the frame down behind the cab but that was all for the truck, folks injured but not serious. Same scene and 2010ish truck was caught the same smashed in, not as lucky.
My ex had a 2002 C240 Merc, ran a red light, 45-50mph and peeled the front end off a 1ton van, everyone walked away.
Older late 80s Ford/Chevy 1/2ton pickup hit in the front, bumper damaged w no injuries vs late model 20'teens SUV, front end caved in, flipped and injuries as expected.
These are just a couple instances of many I'd like to forget but give me more metal any day of the week and my takeaway, bigger is always better not newer.
No, it is not controlled tests, you cannot use such cases with too many scenarios as a references. Each accidents are different.
Only clearly exact condition tests shows true data. A lot of older heavy skin Volvo or older Corolla crap out against newer cars with much thinner skins but stronger bones.
Only clearly exact condition tests shows true data. A lot of older heavy skin Volvo or older Corolla crap out against newer cars with much thinner skins but stronger bones.
I drove Corolla IM 2015 and the skin is thin, I can press with my finger and the whole panel flex.
Back to 0w20, I have tendency to change the oil on spring when the weather is warm, so when the fuel dilution started in peak of winter, it has less effect than driving fuel contaminated oil in summer.
Back to 0w20, I have tendency to change the oil on spring when the weather is warm, so when the fuel dilution started in peak of winter, it has less effect than driving fuel contaminated oil in summer.
Yes-the difference in that Leadville is the highest Incorporated City in the Country.
Redlin, no turbo on that 13' CRV with the high miles K-24. Just plain ole MPI, which is probably why it has such high miles. I don't beat on it either. I take good care of the old girl 
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2026
- Messages
- 4
I’m going back to 0w20 from 0w30. My jeep has 11k miles on it and I went to 0w30 for better protection. I’ve done some research and that sounded like a well thought out plan. Well after driving for a little bit and now we are in really cold weather when ever I drive my oil pressure hunts up and down constantly. Never did this on the 0w20. More than likely I think it’s the oil more than a mechanical issue. Gonna change that first and see. With everything I’ve read I’m thinking more of the failures with the 3.6l were from bad manufacturing when it was made with bad materials than the oil. I’m gonna try the 0w20 again and see if that helps.
I’ve run AMSOIL Signature Series 0w30 and ESP 0W-30 in my 21 Wrangler 3.6 and the oil pressure is exactly the same as 0W-20. It gets pretty cold here. The oil pump is controlled for a low rpm pressure and a high rpm pressure. You may have something else going on.
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2026
- Messages
- 4
It only started doing it after the switch to 0w30. So I’m gonna do an oil change, being it’s do anyway and see if that fixes that.
I had a 3.6L engine in a minivan. Great engines. I dont know how the oil pressure pump works on these engines, but I had like 35 pounds of pressure under 1500 rpm and about 80 pounds of pressure above that. It seemed to be a 2 stage oil pump that offered 2 pressures.
I believe this is one of those engines that was properly designed from the get go to run 0W20. Massive amounts of oil pressure to flood the bearings and top end with an abundance of oil. I don't think 0W30 offers any summer advantages in these engines.
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2026
- Messages
- 4
I have a 2025 and it has a dual stage oil pump. Low and high. Low is for cruising and for mpg and high is for accelerating and towing I believe or high load. My issue was when I was driving on the highway at 70mph and the oil temp was at about 200 my oil psi was a steady 75. It would occasionally drop down to say 35 and stay there a couple secs but then go right back up to 75. I would get off my exit and my idle psi was 42-52. Something isn’t right because with 0w20 it never did that. I think the ecm is programmed for the flow characteristics of 0w20 oil and maybe this 0w30 is just throwing numbers it doesn’t like. So it’s constantly trying to bleed off pressure. I’ve done some research and many say the newer 3.6l are really picky with oil
Similar threads
