Exactly, just gotta be real careful with wobbles working that close to the windshield.With the correct wobble extension and wobble adapter you should be able to get on there.
Exactly, just gotta be real careful with wobbles working that close to the windshield.With the correct wobble extension and wobble adapter you should be able to get on there.
I'm learning two things today: wobble extension and wobble adapter. I'm going to check it out.With the correct wobble extension and wobble adapter you should be able to get on there.
If you can get a flat wrench on it, you may can get a nut splitter on it.
Here's what I have decided to do:
I'm going to use a channel lock to grip the strut shaft, and to generate enough clamping force on that polished strut shaft, I'm going to use numerous zip ties to hold that channel lock in place AND I'm going to use a clamping tool as well.
This seems ridiculous, but it might work.
As for the pipe wrench, I'll try that next if that doesn't work but I have my doubts. Since the pipe wrench clamps by tightening that adjusting wheel, I can't see how my fingers can adjust with enough force.. but it's worth a shot
They don’t have one. Limited tools, not even a Dremel or locking pliers. Channel locks will just slip.Impact gun on top nut, brap brap brap brap zing.
As for the pipe wrench, I'll try that next if that doesn't work but I have my doubts. Since the pipe wrench clamps by tightening that adjusting wheel, I can't see how my fingers can adjust with enough force.. but it's worth a shot
It's a tiny nut that is NOT welded on. Use heat and it is done, it ready is as simple as that. Works every time. If it was cross treaded cut it off with a Dremel and call it a day. It is a 10 minute job at best both ways.So, it comes down to either a vice grip or a pipe wrench then.. I have doubts that I am strong enough to create the necessary force to get it to bite properly..
BUT, I do have an idea: I can use a CLAMP TOOL for the purpose of clamping on the vise grip (or perhaps channel lock) to generate the necessary force. (LOL, it might work......)
Yes a different design than what i'm used to. I assume with no body nuts to remove the strut as a unit, you remove the top nut, raise the car, then with spring tension gone, remove the strut knuckle bolts.Heat would ruin the rubber bushing the OP likely intends to reuse.
If there is nothing else holding the spring tension when a strut nut is removed, parts can go flying dangerously as the spring releases. I assume in this design you leave the bottom end of the strut attached to the suspension to compress the spring?
I agree. A locking vice grip can work with a stout impact, used as i mentioned. But with hand tools, a pipe wrench is better.They don’t have one. Limited tools, not even a Dremel or locking pliers. Channel locks will just slip.
For those who advocate locking pliers, they’re good, multi-use tools, they generate a small fraction of the grip and torque of a pipe wrench. The locking pliers can clamp with, at very best, a hundred lbs of pressure. On chrome, that’s not enough. They’ll slip. The clamping force is set when you squeeze them.
The pipe wrench increases clamping force as the jaws get more and more pressure from the handle being torqued. They generate thousands of lbs of pressure as the jaws lock onto the surface. There is no comparison between locking pliers, or pump pliers, and a pipe wrench. Like comparing a tack hammer with a sledge hammer.
Locking pliers and channel locks (I’ve got several versions of each) are great, but they do best with flat surfaces to grip. On smooth round surfaces, they don’t grip enough. Pipe wrenches, by their design, don’t slip. That’s why they’re used on pipes...
When the chrome slips under your channel locks, and you decide shop for a pipe wrench, get a good one, made in the US, with hardened jaws. Skip the Chinese junk, with soft jaws, they’re fine for iron pipe, but not this use.
I just read this awful misconception.Here's what I have decided to do:
I'm going to use a channel lock to grip the strut shaft, and to generate enough clamping force on that polished strut shaft, I'm going to use numerous zip ties to hold that channel lock in place AND I'm going to use a clamping tool as well.
This seems ridiculous, but it might work.
As for the pipe wrench, I'll try that next if that doesn't work but I have my doubts. Since the pipe wrench clamps by tightening that adjusting wheel, I can't see how my fingers can adjust with enough force.. but it's worth a shot
I'm convinced!They don’t have one. Limited tools, not even a Dremel or locking pliers. Channel locks will just slip.
For those who advocate locking pliers, they’re good, multi-use tools, they generate a small fraction of the grip and torque of a pipe wrench. The locking pliers can clamp with, at very best, a hundred lbs of pressure. On chrome, that’s not enough. They’ll slip. The clamping force is set when you squeeze them.
The pipe wrench increases clamping force as the jaws get more and more pressure from the handle being torqued. They generate thousands of lbs of pressure as the jaws lock onto the surface. There is no comparison between locking pliers, or pump pliers, and a pipe wrench. Like comparing a tack hammer with a sledge hammer.
Locking pliers and channel locks (I’ve got several versions of each) are great, but they do best with flat surfaces to grip. On smooth round surfaces, they don’t grip enough. Pipe wrenches, by their design, don’t slip. That’s why they’re used on pipes...
When the chrome slips under your channel locks, and you decide shop for a pipe wrench, get a good one, made in the US, with hardened jaws. Skip the Chinese junk, with soft jaws, they’re fine for iron pipe, but not this use.
there's another nut below that pad, astroI’m concerned about the design of your struts. The struts I’ve worked on are bolted to the body by a couple of nuts that hold the strut plate.
That hex head top nut holds the spring seat in place. You do the top nut AFTER the strut is out and the spring compressor has removed the tension from the nut.
Are you certain that you should be unbolting this top nut? Is the spring tension accounted for?
Got a picture of your car?