Silicone ADBV - Always red?

[OVERKILL]

This thread by @The Critic from last year:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/black-silicone-adbv.324860/

Had me thinking about commercial filters that are high-end that you'd THINK would have silicone ADBV's, but they are clearly black. How would one tell if the media from the company doesn't state one way or the other? @ZeeOSix mentioned freezing it, but that's difficult to do without sacrificing a filter.

In particular, my query resides in relation to the Fleetguard LF16002 which is the cross for the PH2/XG2 and FL-820S filters, using Fleetguard's synthetic nanofibre (I presume NanoNet) media. I've run the FL1A version on our boats and plan to continue doing so.

I recall them being a Parker unit, but I think they are almost all Parker, regardless of being nitrile or silicone.

I wonder if @NashNative our local Fleetguard guru would know?

 

[Trav]

A lot of Mann use a white silicone one.
Edit: I said Bosch but it is Mann when I looked at one.

 

[Zee09]

It won't help you much but you get used to the feel of it.
After awhile you can tell instantly.
Filter makers should stick with orange or red for silicone as many assume color dictates material choice.

When I run out seals and change a color because of supply issues people freak that I have changed
the material and the drama continues. In this world If I made filters I'd stick with red or orange.

If I was a bad man I'd supply red nitrile.

 

[OVERKILL]

It won't help you much but you get used to the feel of it.
After awhile you can tell instantly.
Filter makers should stick with orange or red for silicone as many assume color dictates material choice.

Unfortunately the last Fleetguard I cut open was 2010, so I'd have to buy one to sacrifice if I wanted to test, or run it first I guess and find out "after the fact". The ADBV isn't super important anyway on the HEMI, because the filter is vertically oriented.

 

[Zee09]

Unfortunately the last Fleetguard I cut open was 2010, so I'd have to buy one to sacrifice if I wanted to test, or run it first I guess and find out "after the fact". The ADBV isn't super important anyway on the HEMI, because the filter is vertically oriented.

Yeah for you and the way you do maintenance I don't think it is a worry for you.
You're not doing 25K filter runs either.

 

[Davejam]

Like that prior thread already mentioned color isn't a good indication.

Have you tried to email the manufacturer? That's the only thing i can think to do.

 

[OVERKILL]

Like that prior thread already mentioned color isn't a good indication.

Have you tried to email the manufacturer? That's the only thing i can think to do.

I tagged them in this thread. NashNative works for Cummins/Fleetguard and posts on here.

 

[Job]

Well if reading is correct on it, silicone adbv are dyed a reddish orange color. So it can be dyed any color, like purple. Nitrile is synthetic rubber too.

 

[Sayjac]

In my observation, the 'most common color' for silicone adbv is red/orange-ish. As noted, Euro Mann white silicone. Mitsubishi blue-ish silicone. New ST MP blue-ish. RP, purple silicone. 'Ime', I've only seen one brand claim black color adbv to be silicone, the now made in China Densos. If true, 'imo' seems like a dumb idea as black is the only color I'm aware of for nitrile adbv.

 

[Zee09]

In my observation, the 'most common color' for silicone adbv is red/orange-ish. As noted, Euro Mann white silicone. Mitsubishi blue-ish silicone. New ST MP blue-ish. RP, purple silicone. 'Ime', I've only seen one brand claim black color adbv to be silicone, the now made in China Densos. If true, 'imo' seems like a dumb idea as black is the only color I'm aware of for nitrile adbv.

I agree and I don't think I have seen other colors of nitrile adbv's but you can get all kinds of nitrile colors like you can in gloves. But as said don't use back silicone for adbv's as nobody will consider it a premium product unless you tell them otherwise.

 

[HankHill]

In my observation, the 'most common color' for silicone adbv is red/orange-ish. As noted, Euro Mann white silicone. Mitsubishi blue-ish silicone. New ST MP blue-ish. RP, purple silicone. 'Ime', I've only seen one brand claim black color adbv to be silicone, the now made in China Densos. If true, 'imo' seems like a dumb idea as black is the only color I'm aware of for nitrile adbv.

Same here

 

[OLEJOE]

Unfortunately the last Fleetguard I cut open was 2010, so I'd have to buy one to sacrifice if I wanted to test, or run it first I guess and find out "after the fact". The ADBV isn't super important anyway on the HEMI, because the filter is vertically oriented.

The filter on my Hemi is horizontal. I definitely try to use a silicone ADBV. Being it’s completely sideways, I’m unsure what type of bypass is better. Thread end or dome end.

 

[ZeeOSix]

The filter on my Hemi is horizontal. I definitely try to use a silicone ADBV. Being it’s completely sideways, I’m unsure what type of bypass is better. Thread end or dome end.

If the filter is mounted horizontal it probably doesn't really matter. If the filter is mounted vertical base up, then a base end bypass is best. If the filter is mounted vertical base down, then a dome end bypass is best. It's best to have the bypass valve located away from where debris can settle in the filter when the engine isn't running.

 

[ZeeOSix]

The ADBV isn't super important anyway on the HEMI, because the filter is vertically oriented.

Even with that filter orientation, a sealed ADBV still works to keep all the oil in the galleries located above the filter from draining down from gravity.

 

[DuckRyder]

HAMP "Shorty" has a grey silicone ADBV ... almost black but not quite.

 

[B00kemDan0]

If the filter is mounted horizontal it probably doesn't really matter. If the filter is mounted vertical base up, then a base end bypass is best. If the filter is mounted vertical base down, then a dome end bypass is best. It's best to have the bypass valve located away from where debris can settle in the filter when the engine isn't running.

The threaded end bypass valve has some inherent dangers as well, especially with Si check valves (Si becomes very very pliable and slick in hot engine oil).

(1) the Si check valve can get sucked into the bypass valve holes (which can cause a base seal burst).

(2) the Si check valve can dislodge and cause an internal leak, or even tank your entire engine if the Si valve escapes since the entire internal assembly of the filter is under compression load from a spring and highly depends on the height of all of the internal components being in-spec and with flat/parallel sealing planes.

Most debris in the oil flow will get caught in the media (that is, if the media has some decent loft to it) or remain in-suspension with the oil (oil gets even more viscous as it cools, too). So the vertically mounted filter (dome down) doesn't really "collect" debris in the dome due to gravity. Really the only time you'll see a bunch of debris in the dome is when you're looking at a post-mortem filter after an engine failure where there are large flakes and chunks of metal. IMO perhaps it would be best to use the threaded-end bypass filter on the first few oil changes of a new engine, but then after that your engine should be clean and only debris will be from you air intake or sloppy oil pour.

Red / orange silicone is the high volume color at the big rubber seal manufacturers in the US and Far East and therefore costs the least.

 

[Flashlightboy]

I have two recently purchased from O'Reilly's RP filters and the ADBVs are reddish orange. Not a hint of purple except for the color of the can.

 

[Job]

I have two recently purchased from O'Reilly's RP filters and the ADBVs are reddish orange. Not a hint of purple except for the color of the can.

They were purple. The new company is trimming costs. The purple was much more expensive being small runs.

 

[OVERKILL]

The threaded end bypass valve has some inherent dangers as well, especially with Si check valves (Si becomes very very pliable and slick in hot engine oil).

(1) the Si check valve can get sucked into the bypass valve holes (which can cause a base seal burst).

(2) the Si check valve can dislodge and cause an internal leak, or even tank your entire engine if the Si valve escapes since the entire internal assembly of the filter is under compression load from a spring and highly depends on the height of all of the internal components being in-spec and with flat/parallel sealing planes.

Most debris in the oil flow will get caught in the media (that is, if the media has some decent loft to it) or remain in-suspension with the oil (oil gets even more viscous as it cools, too). So the vertically mounted filter (dome down) doesn't really "collect" debris in the dome due to gravity. Really the only time you'll see a bunch of debris in the dome is when you're looking at a post-mortem filter after an engine failure where there are large flakes and chunks of metal. IMO perhaps it would be best to use the threaded-end bypass filter on the first few oil changes of a new engine, but then after that your engine should be clean and only debris will be from you air intake or sloppy oil pour.

Red / orange silicone is the high volume color at the big rubber seal manufacturers in the US and Far East and therefore costs the least.

There've been quite a few cans cut open on here where carbonaceous particulate/grit is sitting in the dome end when the filter is dissected, FWIW. Yes, you'll see that same material in the pleats, but some seems to inevitably settle out.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Most debris in the oil flow will get caught in the media (that is, if the media has some decent loft to it) or remain in-suspension with the oil (oil gets even more viscous as it cools, too). So the vertically mounted filter (dome down) doesn't really "collect" debris in the dome due to gravity. Really the only time you'll see a bunch of debris in the dome is when you're looking at a post-mortem filter after an engine failure where there are large flakes and chunks of metal. IMO perhaps it would be best to use the threaded-end bypass filter on the first few oil changes of a new engine, but then after that your engine should be clean and only debris will be from you air intake or sloppy oil pour.

I've seen crud collected in the dome end of filters even on very clean engines due to piston ring blow-by, especially in the winter time when cold start-ups running pretty rich. Also plenty of photos posted here by various members showing crud laying in the can and not in the media. An engine can make debris and contamination internally without any debris getting by the air filter.