How to choose an oil filter - IMHO

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Jun 8, 2022
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Lots of threads on here about which oil filter someone should use or does use, even a thread with rankings. But given everyone has there own set of requirements, I figured I would share my process or at least what I think about, in hopes others would also.

This stems from using the Wix filters like 15 years without question - because someone said it was good and it was made in USA. When things started changing with them, I had to figure out what to use next, and I got a lot of help from very patient senior members like @ZeeOSix , amongst others. So thank all of you.

Anyway, here goes.

IMHO, there are about 8 things that can be evaluated on an oil filter. Many of those 8 may not matter to a lot of people. Here is my take on how to evaluate.

1) filter efficiency - obviously very important - except a lot of filters have no rating. The best seems to be some of the Fram's which are 20um @99%. Lots of people could simply stop here I suppose. OEM filters never have a rating, yet are good enough for the OEM? Can be confusing at best. I like to buy ones with highly rated efficiency, but I certainly don't think its all that matters.

2) ADBV - Silicon rubber tolerates heat and age better, so I like them. Of course Nitrile Rubber works fine usually for short OCI. I wouldn't likely use a 5 year old filter with a nitrile ADBV personally as they can harden over time, but many have without issues.

3) Center tube. Everyone favorite - metal tube with holes - including me - but there getting hard to find and usually cost more. E-core, which is a type of plastic core, had issues when it first came out, but no one has seen any issues for a while. I will use them for short OCI - but I expect only on a budget filter. Metal with louvers - fine in theory, but you don't know how well the louvers are open until you own the filter. I avoid them if I can, but its probably not a showstopper. If the filter louvers aren't open enough for you - return it.

4) Build quality. Likely the most important factor - but you don't know until you cut it open so how to choose? I pay close attention to the cut opens posted here - and greatly appreciate those that do it, like @53' Stude who does many. I avoid filters with consistent quality issues. Beyond that I don't know how you judge.

5) Cost. Duh. For some it matters, for some it does not. There are some great filters for cheap, and some filters that cost a lot more that aren't as good. Marketing costs a lot apparently.

6) Retailer. I buy from Walmart, or Rock Auto when ordering something else. Others buy from Amazon or their favorite parts store. My suggestion here is there are a lot of great oil filters but not very many great retailers, so if there is a retailer you like, just choose amongst the filters they sell.

7) Media. If you haven't read @OVERKILL media type overview - you really should. Having said that, with the lack of the Dondalsdon media availability, where all just relying on what the manufacturer calls it. All things being equal, I would prefer a synthetic - synthetic blend - cellulose - in that order. However given were just using what the manufacturer calls it, not sure I would put too much weight into it. Now go read this anyway: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/whats-in-your-filter-media-types-explained.345164/

8) Country of Origin means a lot to me. Made in USA is superior. Made by friends in Mexico or Canada (are any made in Canada?) are OK in my book. I won't use anything made in China. Other places - it depends on what I get for it - cheaper, better, whatever. You should think this way. Unless you live in Australia for example. Then buy one made in Australia.

Things I don't believe matter, but might to someone:

  • Leaf spring or coil spring. IMHO, they both hold the thing together, and I haven't seen any recorded issues with either.
  • Base plate. Can be thick or thin. Sort of indicates overall quality, but not sure how much it really matters?
  • Gasket - thickness and material. Given I haven't had one leak other than operator error, I don't pay much attention. I do pay attention that its properly seated and put a little oil on it before I install.
  • End Caps - metal or fiber. Doesn't matter to me. I haven't seen a fiber end cap failure post anywhere here. Still some don't like them, so choose something else if you don't - its your money.
  • Mileage rating. I have no idea how this is defined and most filters don't even have a number, so again, not sure how to compare. I run short OCI's. This could be really important for some. Its not important to me at all. Use your own judgement.

So what did I miss?

How do you decide?
 
After years of using Mobil1 filters made by Champion with pretty much complete confidence, learned that they and many other trusted brands are being shuffled between Mann-Hummel and others like a deck of cards and manufactured who knows where or by whom. I decided to stop making myself crazy trying to pick between the Kings and the Jokers and now just provide my Honda dealer with my oil of choice (Mobil1 0w20 EP or 5W-30 EP) and let them install the Honda factory filters. I have the Hondacare extended warranties so, if they satisfy warranty requirements, less to obsess over. Yes, I'm aware it's a Fram in a blue can, wish they'd gone with the A01 Filtech, but, as they say, It is what it is.
 
My main criteria in an oil filter is having the filter media backed by a mesh of some sort whether it be wire or nylon. The reason being is because I've seen too many Cut/Paste filters with either collapsed media or media that was getting ready to collapse. Two exceptions are the M1 and Bosch filters; they seem to hold up fairly well even with their stand alone filter media.
 
Lots of threads on here about which oil filter someone should use or does use, even a thread with rankings. But given everyone has there own set of requirements, I figured I would share my process or at least what I think about, in hopes others would also.

This stems from using the Wix filters like 15 years without question - because someone said it was good and it was made in USA. When things started changing with them, I had to figure out what to use next, and I got a lot of help from very patient senior members like @ZeeOSix , amongst others. So thank all of you.

Anyway, here goes.

IMHO, there are about 8 things that can be evaluated on an oil filter. Many of those 8 may not matter to a lot of people. Here is my take on how to evaluate.

1) filter efficiency - obviously very important - except a lot of filters have no rating. The best seems to be some of the Fram's which are 20um @99%. Lots of people could simply stop here I suppose. OEM filters never have a rating, yet are good enough for the OEM? Can be confusing at best. I like to buy ones with highly rated efficiency, but I certainly don't think its all that matters.

2) ADBV - Silicon rubber tolerates heat and age better, so I like them. Of course Nitrile Rubber works fine usually for short OCI. I wouldn't likely use a 5 year old filter with a nitrile ADBV personally as they can harden over time, but many have without issues.

3) Center tube. Everyone favorite - metal tube with holes - including me - but there getting hard to find and usually cost more. E-core, which is a type of plastic core, had issues when it first came out, but no one has seen any issues for a while. I will use them for short OCI - but I expect only on a budget filter. Metal with louvers - fine in theory, but you don't know how well the louvers are open until you own the filter. I avoid them if I can, but its probably not a showstopper. If the filter louvers aren't open enough for you - return it.

4) Build quality. Likely the most important factor - but you don't know until you cut it open so how to choose? I pay close attention to the cut opens posted here - and greatly appreciate those that do it, like @53' Stude who does many. I avoid filters with consistent quality issues. Beyond that I don't know how you judge.

5) Cost. Duh. For some it matters, for some it does not. There are some great filters for cheap, and some filters that cost a lot more that aren't as good. Marketing costs a lot apparently.

6) Retailer. I buy from Walmart, or Rock Auto when ordering something else. Others buy from Amazon or their favorite parts store. My suggestion here is there are a lot of great oil filters but not very many great retailers, so if there is a retailer you like, just choose amongst the filters they sell.

7) Media. If you haven't read @OVERKILL media type overview - you really should. Having said that, with the lack of the Dondalsdon media availability, where all just relying on what the manufacturer calls it. All things being equal, I would prefer a synthetic - synthetic blend - cellulose - in that order. However given were just using what the manufacturer calls it, not sure I would put too much weight into it. Now go read this anyway: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/whats-in-your-filter-media-types-explained.345164/

8) Country of Origin means a lot to me. Made in USA is superior. Made by friends in Mexico or Canada (are any made in Canada?) are OK in my book. I won't use anything made in China. Other places - it depends on what I get for it - cheaper, better, whatever. You should think this way. Unless you live in Australia for example. Then buy one made in Australia.

Things I don't believe matter, but might to someone:

  • Leaf spring or coil spring. IMHO, they both hold the thing together, and I haven't seen any recorded issues with either.
  • Base plate. Can be thick or thin. Sort of indicates overall quality, but not sure how much it really matters?
  • Gasket - thickness and material. Given I haven't had one leak other than operator error, I don't pay much attention. I do pay attention that its properly seated and put a little oil on it before I install.
  • End Caps - metal or fiber. Doesn't matter to me. I haven't seen a fiber end cap failure post anywhere here. Still some don't like them, so choose something else if you don't - its your money.
  • Mileage rating. I have no idea how this is defined and most filters don't even have a number, so again, not sure how to compare. I run short OCI's. This could be really important for some. Its not important to me at all. Use your own judgement.

So what did I miss?

How do you decide?
How do I pick one.... Easy I go to Wal Mart and pick up a extra guard Fram 7317...pay for it and move on...with no worries or second guessing..Easy peasy..
 
Lots of threads on here about which oil filter someone should use or does use, even a thread with rankings. But given everyone has there own set of requirements, I figured I would share my process or at least what I think about, in hopes others would also.

This stems from using the Wix filters like 15 years without question - because someone said it was good and it was made in USA. When things started changing with them, I had to figure out what to use next, and I got a lot of help from very patient senior members like @ZeeOSix , amongst others. So thank all of you.

Anyway, here goes.

IMHO, there are about 8 things that can be evaluated on an oil filter. Many of those 8 may not matter to a lot of people. Here is my take on how to evaluate.

1) filter efficiency - obviously very important - except a lot of filters have no rating. The best seems to be some of the Fram's which are 20um @99%. Lots of people could simply stop here I suppose. OEM filters never have a rating, yet are good enough for the OEM? Can be confusing at best. I like to buy ones with highly rated efficiency, but I certainly don't think its all that matters.

2) ADBV - Silicon rubber tolerates heat and age better, so I like them. Of course Nitrile Rubber works fine usually for short OCI. I wouldn't likely use a 5 year old filter with a nitrile ADBV personally as they can harden over time, but many have without issues.

3) Center tube. Everyone favorite - metal tube with holes - including me - but there getting hard to find and usually cost more. E-core, which is a type of plastic core, had issues when it first came out, but no one has seen any issues for a while. I will use them for short OCI - but I expect only on a budget filter. Metal with louvers - fine in theory, but you don't know how well the louvers are open until you own the filter. I avoid them if I can, but its probably not a showstopper. If the filter louvers aren't open enough for you - return it.

4) Build quality. Likely the most important factor - but you don't know until you cut it open so how to choose? I pay close attention to the cut opens posted here - and greatly appreciate those that do it, like @53' Stude who does many. I avoid filters with consistent quality issues. Beyond that I don't know how you judge.

5) Cost. Duh. For some it matters, for some it does not. There are some great filters for cheap, and some filters that cost a lot more that aren't as good. Marketing costs a lot apparently.

6) Retailer. I buy from Walmart, or Rock Auto when ordering something else. Others buy from Amazon or their favorite parts store. My suggestion here is there are a lot of great oil filters but not very many great retailers, so if there is a retailer you like, just choose amongst the filters they sell.

7) Media. If you haven't read @OVERKILL media type overview - you really should. Having said that, with the lack of the Dondalsdon media availability, where all just relying on what the manufacturer calls it. All things being equal, I would prefer a synthetic - synthetic blend - cellulose - in that order. However given were just using what the manufacturer calls it, not sure I would put too much weight into it. Now go read this anyway: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/whats-in-your-filter-media-types-explained.345164/

8) Country of Origin means a lot to me. Made in USA is superior. Made by friends in Mexico or Canada (are any made in Canada?) are OK in my book. I won't use anything made in China. Other places - it depends on what I get for it - cheaper, better, whatever. You should think this way. Unless you live in Australia for example. Then buy one made in Australia.

Things I don't believe matter, but might to someone:

  • Leaf spring or coil spring. IMHO, they both hold the thing together, and I haven't seen any recorded issues with either.
  • Base plate. Can be thick or thin. Sort of indicates overall quality, but not sure how much it really matters?
  • Gasket - thickness and material. Given I haven't had one leak other than operator error, I don't pay much attention. I do pay attention that its properly seated and put a little oil on it before I install.
  • End Caps - metal or fiber. Doesn't matter to me. I haven't seen a fiber end cap failure post anywhere here. Still some don't like them, so choose something else if you don't - its your money.
  • Mileage rating. I have no idea how this is defined and most filters don't even have a number, so again, not sure how to compare. I run short OCI's. This could be really important for some. Its not important to me at all. Use your own judgement.

So what did I miss?

How do you decide?
Hi SC Maintenance,
I like your list. I believe mileage rating belongs in your top 8 also because that is a measurement of filter performance.

In my Oil Filter Value Analysis Database below I score and rank based on;
  • Filter performance
    • efficiency
    • micron
    • mileage rating
  • Anti-drain back material
  • Price
I also include media, end cap and center tube materials but do not score them because they are enablers of the filter performance.

 
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My main criteria in an oil filter is having the filter media backed by a mesh of some sort whether it be wire or nylon. The reason being is because I've seen too many Cut/Paste filters with either collapsed media or media that was getting ready to collapse. Two exceptions are the M1 and Bosch filters; they seem to hold up fairly well even with their stand alone filter media.


Is the only current option for mesh backed media the Fram Endurance / Amsoil (same filter now), or are there others I am not aware of?
 
Pre-BITOG membership filter selector…
Red cactus-1.jpeg
 
I usually go by value for the money. The Purolator Boss, Royal Purple, Fram FE filters are great for efficiency, but are they worth the extra cost? Probably not for most OCIs. If you do extended OCIs or multiple OCIs per filter, it is a different story. I've never had a filter "fail" yet, only the ADBVs, and I've had just as many ADBVs fail on expensive filters as I have had on cheap filters. Makes more sense to me to purchase a "middle of the road" filter like a Fram PH or TG filter or a SuperTech MP that way if I have a ABDV failure and noise on start up, it's not as big of an annoyance to swap it out compared to a $14 filter.
 
Lots of threads on here about which oil filter someone should use or does use, even a thread with rankings. But given everyone has there own set of requirements, I figured I would share my process or at least what I think about, in hopes others would also.

This stems from using the Wix filters like 15 years without question - because someone said it was good and it was made in USA. When things started changing with them, I had to figure out what to use next, and I got a lot of help from very patient senior members like @ZeeOSix , amongst others. So thank all of you.

Anyway, here goes.

IMHO, there are about 8 things that can be evaluated on an oil filter. Many of those 8 may not matter to a lot of people. Here is my take on how to evaluate.

1) filter efficiency - obviously very important - except a lot of filters have no rating. The best seems to be some of the Fram's which are 20um @99%. Lots of people could simply stop here I suppose. OEM filters never have a rating, yet are good enough for the OEM? Can be confusing at best. I like to buy ones with highly rated efficiency, but I certainly don't think its all that matters.

2) ADBV - Silicon rubber tolerates heat and age better, so I like them. Of course Nitrile Rubber works fine usually for short OCI. I wouldn't likely use a 5 year old filter with a nitrile ADBV personally as they can harden over time, but many have without issues.

3) Center tube. Everyone favorite - metal tube with holes - including me - but there getting hard to find and usually cost more. E-core, which is a type of plastic core, had issues when it first came out, but no one has seen any issues for a while. I will use them for short OCI - but I expect only on a budget filter. Metal with louvers - fine in theory, but you don't know how well the louvers are open until you own the filter. I avoid them if I can, but its probably not a showstopper. If the filter louvers aren't open enough for you - return it.

4) Build quality. Likely the most important factor - but you don't know until you cut it open so how to choose? I pay close attention to the cut opens posted here - and greatly appreciate those that do it, like @53' Stude who does many. I avoid filters with consistent quality issues. Beyond that I don't know how you judge.

5) Cost. Duh. For some it matters, for some it does not. There are some great filters for cheap, and some filters that cost a lot more that aren't as good. Marketing costs a lot apparently.

6) Retailer. I buy from Walmart, or Rock Auto when ordering something else. Others buy from Amazon or their favorite parts store. My suggestion here is there are a lot of great oil filters but not very many great retailers, so if there is a retailer you like, just choose amongst the filters they sell.

7) Media. If you haven't read @OVERKILL media type overview - you really should. Having said that, with the lack of the Dondalsdon media availability, where all just relying on what the manufacturer calls it. All things being equal, I would prefer a synthetic - synthetic blend - cellulose - in that order. However given were just using what the manufacturer calls it, not sure I would put too much weight into it. Now go read this anyway: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/whats-in-your-filter-media-types-explained.345164/

8) Country of Origin means a lot to me. Made in USA is superior. Made by friends in Mexico or Canada (are any made in Canada?) are OK in my book. I won't use anything made in China. Other places - it depends on what I get for it - cheaper, better, whatever. You should think this way. Unless you live in Australia for example. Then buy one made in Australia.

Things I don't believe matter, but might to someone:

  • Leaf spring or coil spring. IMHO, they both hold the thing together, and I haven't seen any recorded issues with either.
  • Base plate. Can be thick or thin. Sort of indicates overall quality, but not sure how much it really matters?
  • Gasket - thickness and material. Given I haven't had one leak other than operator error, I don't pay much attention. I do pay attention that its properly seated and put a little oil on it before I install.
  • End Caps - metal or fiber. Doesn't matter to me. I haven't seen a fiber end cap failure post anywhere here. Still some don't like them, so choose something else if you don't - its your money.
  • Mileage rating. I have no idea how this is defined and most filters don't even have a number, so again, not sure how to compare. I run short OCI's. This could be really important for some. Its not important to me at all. Use your own judgement.

So what did I miss?

How do you decide?
It’s terrible you just never know the quality of anything now a-days nevertheless an oil filter. I was grown up to trust a Fram and still do I also like oe wix purolator delco and now been turned onto eco gards and heard good things about microguards. I’m not an extended oci guy so any filter that can do 5k is fine for my needs but I’ve seen plenty of 3-5k filters do exceptional out to 10k
 
It’s terrible you just never know the quality of anything now a-days nevertheless an oil filter. I was grown up to trust a Fram and still do I also like oe wix purolator delco and now been turned onto eco gards and heard good things about microguards. I’m not an extended oci guy so any filter that can do 5k is fine for my needs but I’ve seen plenty of 3-5k filters do exceptional out to 10k
FWIW, when I worked at a Gulf station a few lifetimes ago, The official Gulf jobber supplied Fram filters. Around early 1973 they switched to Puorlator. Don't know why. Cost? Efficiency? Reputation? Profit margin? At the time I thought it was cost cutting, so after the station closed I used Fram. I think I used Fram throughout the 70s, 80s & 90s. Then after finding out about the dreaded OCOD I started looking around more, but that wasn't until the internet. This forum, among others, has influenced my decision making a lot, lol. Turns out the high end Fram product is not bad at all.

Edit: IIRC we only carried the Fram orange cans, & Purolator white cans. I don't know if any other lines existed. One thing I did learn is the PH30 (with the gasket around the outside edge) used on some GM cars had to be tightened with a wrench. Just hand tightening wasn't enough, they'd come back leaking.
 
I say the biggest filter that will fit in there with the smallest micron rating, appropriate bypass rating and doesn't cost too much more than the filter it calls for.
My wife's car calls for a little metric oil filter with 7-11psi by pass, I put on a 50% bigger 21mu filter with 16psi bypass that costs about $3 more.
For my Dodge Dakota I found a bigger filter that's about an inch longer than it's normal filter, 21mu, same bypass, almost the same price by a $ or less.
 
I have no problems using AC delco or ST ecore filters and they are really inexpensive so that’s what I usually purchase. Sometimes when I get bored I buy a different brand just to try it. Right now I have a couple of denso filters in the line up
 
I never had a filter fail. I honestly don't get hung up on oil filters. Yes, choose a good one and move on.

Sometimes I use OEM, sometimes I use Amsoil. Wix. Not so much on the Fram, but I wouldn't get a bad gut using a Fram or two.
 
8) Country of Origin means a lot to me. Made in USA is superior. Made by friends in Mexico or Canada (are any made in Canada?) are OK in my book. I won't use anything made in China. Other places - it depends on what I get for it - cheaper, better, whatever. You should think this way. Unless you live in Australia for example. Then buy one made in Australia.
Generally agree, expect the "Made in USA..superior". While I don't generally buy by country, I buy by reputable brand, the best filters I have used and cut open are from Europe, mainly Germany and Austria, but also Italy. Many of the USA made filters just aren't that impressive.

For me, it is generally Hengst, Mann & Hummel (Europe), Mahle and CoopersFIAAM...but that is an odd case. As far as China, yes its distasteful, but I would buy a Mahle made in China filter over a US Fram any day, but I would prefer one made in the EU.

I've only had two filter 'fails' in all my playing w/ cars; one a Champ made Mobil1 that had a misplaced ADBV that got mangled when it was crimped and the other was a Fram that had obvious burrs on the threads. Both were returned.
 
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