Septic tanks treatments
- Thread starter slo town
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- Sep 2, 2016
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Washlets/bidets have greatly reduce the amount of toilet paper used in our household
You're not convincing anyone in my house (including myself) to use one of those contraptions. I know everyone raves about them, butt it's not for me
I’m applauding everyone here for staying away from TMI and letting the topic go in the toilet
- Joined
- Sep 2, 2016
- Messages
- 344
So admittedly I didn't put much research into Bio-Clean prior to purchasing it - it was one of the few choices available here and seemed to have positive feedback from plumbers and users. Fortunately they do list the enzymes on their SDS:
Amylase - breaks down starches
Cellulase - breaks down cellulose
Lipase - breaks down fats
Protease - breaks down proteins
Non-pathogenic bacteria
I'm no chemist but it does seem specific to kitchen/food waste rather than soap, toilet paper, etc.
Roebic, on the other hand, only seems to contain bacteria cultures and no enzymes. For whatever that's worth
Lipase and cellulase should work on fats/soaps and TP
The general idea is that specific bacteria produce enzymes. Most of those enzymes listed there are made with bacterial cultures. But I guess it's possible to patent specific hybrids. In this case it seems that they found bacteria in the soil and separated them out.
You will use the 3 seashells.You're not convincing anyone in my house (including myself) to use one of those contraptions. I know everyone raves about them, butt it's not for me
Like nuking them from orbit, it's the only way to be sure.
Yes strong caustic will attack fat and protein should work pretty good.
If a chemical drain opener works at all, it's because it generates heat. The old powdered Drano contained aluminum, which also created bubbles for a mechanical action.
Crystal Lye Drain Opener - Instant Power
100% lye quickly & easily clears the toughest drain
myinstantpower.com
Powerful 100% lye formula creates heat to melt and dissolve grease, hair, soap, scum, and other drain clogging material. Clears drain lines in 15-30 minutes.
I had used Bio-Safe One at my old house and that got my cesspool working pretty well. Rarely needed pumping unlike neighbors that needed it often even after replacement.
At my work we have a microbiology lab. I brought some of the Bio-Safe One, Rid-X, and a couple others in just to see how whatever bacteria they have grow. No clue on good/bad for which purposes. In the dishes the Rid-X was much better than the other ones I brought in except one. The Bio-Safe One was crazy growth. the forgotten brands had very small colony traces, Rid-X had a large colony, BioSafe One took over the entire dish in the same times.
At my work we have a microbiology lab. I brought some of the Bio-Safe One, Rid-X, and a couple others in just to see how whatever bacteria they have grow. No clue on good/bad for which purposes. In the dishes the Rid-X was much better than the other ones I brought in except one. The Bio-Safe One was crazy growth. the forgotten brands had very small colony traces, Rid-X had a large colony, BioSafe One took over the entire dish in the same times.
Think about trying to keep 1200 gallons of waste water bacteria free. Impossible to do unless you dumped in gallons of Clorox every day. Even then it's a maybe. The newer engineered systems pump air into the system for 60 minutes so aerobic bacteria work and then stops for 60 minutes so anaerobic bacteria work. It's a much better system.
I think the leach field for the OP is done and a new one will be needed soon. It should never cause the water level in the tank to rise.
I don't think anything you pour into the system will help.
I am required to have my septic inspected 2x a year and it gets pumped when the inspection indicates pumping is needed.
I think the leach field for the OP is done and a new one will be needed soon. It should never cause the water level in the tank to rise.
I don't think anything you pour into the system will help.
I am required to have my septic inspected 2x a year and it gets pumped when the inspection indicates pumping is needed.
Sitting in house with crabpy clogged collapsing line to street sewer gonna be $30000+ to fix
Waste is expensive human waste preciously so
Waste is expensive human waste preciously so
Yea, it's either a $30K sewer line replacement or a $30K septic replacement. Home ownership is a blessing and a curse.
I found something from one state saying that additive treatments weren't necessarily as "one bowel movement is enough" or something to that effect as to providing the bacteria needed. Human waste is clearly a source of bacteria.
I've gone backpacking or hiking in areas where there were fancy outhouses. Often with solar powered fans. However, my understanding was that it was to help control the odor by giving some of the bacteria air for a period of time and perhaps to make the waste easier to transport. These were in places like Yosemite or Grand Canyon where the way to haul out waste was by mule or helicopter.
No matter how the system is designed or what additives you choose to use, non-digestible material will eventually build up to the point the outlet of the tank (or inlet) gets plugged off.
Some heavier solids will settle to the bottom of the tank. Oils, grease, wax, paper pulp, hair, etc will float. These two layers converge on each other over time making the liquid layer in the center smaller and smaller.
There's some interesting u-toob videos on the matter, where pumper outfits need gas powered augers to break up the debris into a pumpable slurry by adding water.
Some heavier solids will settle to the bottom of the tank. Oils, grease, wax, paper pulp, hair, etc will float. These two layers converge on each other over time making the liquid layer in the center smaller and smaller.
There's some interesting u-toob videos on the matter, where pumper outfits need gas powered augers to break up the debris into a pumpable slurry by adding water.
