Rotella T6 5w-40/Dart/Texas Heat

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Tell your dealer you want to use 5w-40. Ask them if it will void the warranty.

Not only the viscosity is in question. Diesel oil contains different nutrients for your engine, versus regular passenger vehicle oil. Or should I say that diesel oil is lacking nutrient. It's not good for catalytic converters either.

I use it once a while. My three vehicles may see an oil change with 5W-40 once every 5-6 oil changes. But all my vehicles are out of warranty and I know the engine well for things like performance, sound......etc.
 
Originally Posted By: Triple_Se7en
Tell your dealer you want to use 5w-40. Ask them if it will void the warranty.

Not only the viscosity is in question. Diesel oil contains different nutrients for your engine, versus regular passenger vehicle oil. Or should I say that diesel oil is lacking nutrient. It's not good for catalytic converters either.

I use it once a while. My three vehicles may see an oil change with 5W-40 once every 5-6 oil changes. But all my vehicles are out of warranty and I know the engine well for things like performance, sound......etc.


We all have really learned that the "CAT" issue's are simply irrelevant and in all practicality do not exist under normal conditions.

And YES the dealership is going to tell you, if you venture from ANY OE spec you will void your warranty...it would be a horrible business practice not to. They need to ensure that a warranty repair is due to a manufactures defect and cannot allow outside interference to possibly dictate a defect (good bad or indifferent as that may be. Truth be know, what are the going to do ? A UOA ?? most dealership mechanics are anything but "mechanics"....
 
Originally Posted By: HKPolice
Wow, total lack of comprehension.


My comprehension is just fine, perhaps you need to work on yours?

Originally Posted By: HKPolice
I'm not replying anymore after this post because obviously you can't read.


That is probably for the best, since I am sure you won't like my answers to your bullet points below. Though I find it amusing that you've resorted to insults at this point. You are frustrated and nothing I posted should have incited that sort of reaction from you. I wasn't rude, I didn't call you names...etc. I am trying to have a civil discussion, something you are apparently incapable of
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Originally Posted By: HKPolice
1) I NEVER said that the sky is going to fall using a thicker oil, in fact I said TWICE that it'll run fine. Just that hot spots WILL get hotter & mpg will decrease. No one understands how engine cooling works it seems.


You don't appear to understand that the effect on fuel economy is next to immesurable unless you are an OEM who can benefit from CAFE credits on millions of vehicles. You've claimed several times that "hot spots will get hotter", yet this flies in the face of the fact that every high performance car under the sun specifies a heavier oil. Also, Ford specifies 5w-20 and 5w-50 FOR THE SAME ENGINE in the Mustang depending on whether you have the track pack or not.

Originally Posted By: HKPolice
2) 8.5 cST vs 13.3 cST is 57.6% thicker that is a fact, DO THE CALCULATION YOURSELF.


Yes, and you've done that calculation to make the number look scary. Oh my, 57%!!!! How much thicker is the 0w-20 30 degrees cooler, by percentage? That's a point I made that you appear to have breezed right past.

Originally Posted By: HKPolice
3) I said that RACE CARS & TRACK CARS have oil coolers to keep the oil temps in check in order to provide adequate cooling for hot spots inside the engine. Yes, cooling the oil increases viscosity but RACE CARS run so hot that the oil will overheat without them.


My M5 has an oil cooler. The Mustang GT Track Pack has an oil cooler, the BOSS 302 has an oil cooler, many regular Mercedes, BMW, Audi...etc cars have oil coolers. Nissan G-cars have oil coolers, my Expedition, has an oil cooler. A Crown Vic with the tow package has an oil cooler, many trucks, have oil coolers. The list is quite extensive. This is not reserved simply for race cars and the purpose of the device is twofold:

1. It brings oil UP to operating temperature quicker because the coolant gets up to temp faster than the oil does.
2. It keeps the oil temperature under control (this has to do with bulk oil temperature, as we've both acknowledged, part of the oil's role is cooling) to maintain adequate operating viscosity.

Member Shannow recently did a little test with his GM 3.8 engine (no oil cooler) and he was able to bring his oil temperatures up by a massive amount just by running in a lower gear. He wasn't towing or anything, just running the engine at 4K.

On the other hand, with my own vehicle (which has an oil cooler), once I get engine oil temperature at around 90-95C, that's where it stays. I can beat on it like a red headed step-child and it may only move a few degrees. Get on the highway, it drops down to 85-90. And the oil gets up to temperature much faster because the cooler acts like a heater when the oil is cold.

Originally Posted By: HKPolice
You guys have no concrete proof of any advantage for running 5w40 over 0w20, all opinions.


I never said there was an advantage, I said he likely wouldn't notice anything other than perhaps the engine being a bit sluggish when cold as a disadvantage.

Originally Posted By: HKPolice
I have math & thermodynamics to support my claims. Again, I NEVER said that using a thicker oil will blow up your engine, but hot spots will run hotter & other quirks like valve timing MIGHT not work causing a check engine light.


The valve timing thing has been proven to be a farce. If it was true, in the winter, it wouldn't work at all when the oil is thousands of cP. Also, BMW has spec'd everything from 5w-30 to 10w-60 for the same variable cam timing systems. Ford has done the same with 5w-20 an 5w-50.

Regarding the hot spots, do you have any data that shows just what type of increase we are talking about here? I mean it obviously can't be the issue you think it is otherwise OEM's designing high performance engines wouldn't continue to use heavier oils.... but they do
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Originally Posted By: HKPolice
Want more proof? How about Valvoline engineers?

http://youtu.be/FXqkOZAkXZw?t=10m20s


Question for you: When is the last time Valvoline designed an engine? They are a blender buying base oils from Mobil/SOPUS/CP/BP and additive packages from Infineum (XOM/SOPUS), Lubrizol....etc.

Only the big boys work hand-in-hand with the OEM's on engine development for lubrication like Exxon-Mobil, SOPUS, BP...etc.

Also, from that video:

The guy from Valvoline is a "Supervisor for the Valvoline Product Support Team". He is not an Engineer. He is the one making the claims about not being able to mix 5w-30 and 10w-30 because you might end up with the wrong viscosity
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The woman (who actually is a lubricant engineer) makes an interesting claim "We are the only oil marketer to have a full set of engine tests, these are the tests you have to pass in order to meet API certifications." Which sounds impressive until you realize that she intentionally used the term oil marketer, because they are not an oil manufacturer; they do not refine oil. Exxon Mobil has massive facilities where they actually test entire CARS, not just engines. And have the ability to run all of the API, ACEA and much of the OEM testing in-house. I imagine the same can be said for SHELL.

But back to the viscosity thing:

Engines are designed to run on a broad range of viscosities, they have to be if they are going to be sold all over the world. They have to be if they are going to be operated in Alaska and never see the same oil temperature they are going to see in Texas. To imply that an engine is designed to run on ONE viscosity is dubious at best. The grade on the bottle is representative of the product inside falling within a range of viscosities measured at 40 and 100C and meeting a given cold temperature performance target via MRV and CCS to gain its Winter rating.

THIS is why "back in the day" the manuals had charts showing the appropriate viscosity for a given temperature. And up until very recently, those charts still existed in the manuals of many OEM's selling their products in North America. They key part of that is that when the charts went away and the manufacturers (in North America) went to a single viscosity recommendation, the engines did NOT change. Ford recommended 5w-30 one year for the Modular and 5w-20 for the same engine the next.

AND, those charts persisted outside of North America. This is why you can look up the same car in the USA and in Europe and, with the same engine, note that they have very different viscosity recommendations. It isn't that one oil is necessarily "better" than the other (though you will see that argument being made from both sides of the fence), simply that the engine is indeed designed to be tolerant of a wide range of viscosities due to what I mentioned above and the fact that for certain operating conditions, there is going to be a more appropriate viscosity. A thinner oil is more appropriate for the winter. A heavier oil may be more appropriate for operating on the Autobahn.

CAFE is indeed a driving factor behind lower viscosity being pushed in North America, but that isn't necessarily a bad thing. In order to actually NEED a heavier oil, one needs to be able to elevate oil temperatures, because, as I've noted, actual operating viscosity is based on oil temperature. That is why I recommended you play around with Widman's visc calc and see how little change in temperature is required to negate that 57% difference of yours
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With the push for lighter lubricants we have seen changes in bearing design, changes in oil pump design, changes in sump capacity (to control bulk oil temperatures), the addition of oil coolers on some vehicles to keep sump temps down, the addition of thermal castration mechanisms to cut/reduce power when oil temperatures get too high. These things are all done to ensure that an engine will live a long and healthy life on a thinner lubricant.

We've had plenty of talks about operating viscosity on here before and how it can be controlled through sump size, sump material (finned aluminum pans for example), via oil coolers....etc. This is something that has gained more focus in recent years with OEM's because of the push for lower viscosities to gain that fraction of a MPG in fuel economy, which, over millions of vehicles, adds up to be something significant.

At the end of the day the spec oil is likely the most appropriate choice for the conditions the OP's vehicle is going to encounter. Perhaps if he was running down the Autobahn or tracking it he would benefit from a slight viscosity increase.
 
I'm using M1 0W-40 in a vehicle that specifies a 30-grade. I opted for the 40 instead of M1 10W-30 HM. Are you saying the 40 does not cool as well as the 30 and I'm getting more start-up wear too?

Originally Posted By: HKPolice
Thicker oil = more wear @ start up, Erin the engineer said thicker oil doesn't cool as well.
 
Originally Posted By: HKPolice
More proof that running thicker oil is bad: http://youtu.be/FXqkOZAkXZw?t=32m34s

Thicker oil = more wear @ start up, Erin the engineer said thicker oil doesn't cool as well. /thread

Welcome to my ignore list.


I thought you weren't replying to me anymore?

Anyway, I guess that's why transport trucks have the shortest lived engines right? And European cars wear out their engines that much faster
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If my polite responses to your claims, which apparently have warranted your rude responses, have earned me a spot on your ignore list then I guess you better put most of the board on there as well, as you will note that there hasn't been anybody giving your points a thumbs up in this thread.

You also appear to be a one-trick pony with that Valvoline video, FWIW.

This is a great topic for civil discussion, it is unfortunate that you are seemingly incapable of that.
 
Originally Posted By: GumbyJarvis
More along the lines I have it and need to find a use for it. It was 5.99$ a jug on clearance at kmart back home.

suppose I can do a trade and have my buddy trade me his ENEOS 0w20 to use in my car and we can use the 5w40 T6 in his whatever year F-100 three on the tree something or another ford.


This is the best reason for using the T6.
You have it, it was a deal, so use it without fear.
Consider that at the starting temperatures you're seeing, your T6 is thinner than was my HGMO 0W-20 for almost every morning from 12/1 through 3/31.
The Accord didn't blow up, nor would it do so were I to run a 5W-40 over the warmer months.
Engines will work just fine on a variety of SAE grades.
 
I will add this piece of common BITOG knowledge to my post above:

ALL oil is too thick on start-up, regardless of the grade on the bottle. It is operating viscosity that is important and THAT is dictated by oil temperature, which in turn varies with sump size, sump cooling, ambient temperature, the presence of an oil cooler, power density, load.....etc. Operating viscosity, whose importance has been stressed heavily by member CATERHAM, is what you need to track to know what the appropriate grade should be in the pan for a given operating condition. Of course in order to track it you need to know oil temperature and pressure, two gauges that most cars don't have.

That said, high VI multigrades like M1 0w-40 are an attempt to bridge the issue by being thinner on start-up than a 5w-40, 10w-40 or 15w-40 and still being adequately thick at operating temperature and providing a sufficient HTHS for applications that require it. The same goes for 0w-30 and 0w-20.

This chain of logic is why the mantra "as thin as possible, as thick as necessary" exists. If all applications could just run 0w-16 the second part of that statement wouldn't be required. If we take the statements "a thicker oil doesn't cool as well" and "a thicker oil causes more wear at start-up" at face value, without assigning any context to them (like the fact that ANY oil is too thick at start-up and if your engine is cooler, you are by virtue of that fact, running a thicker oil) then it would seem to make sense that there is NEVER a situation for which a heavier oil is a more appropriate choice. This would seem illogical though, given that many high performance vehicles spec them
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This is a great subject to discuss and it is unfortunate that it gets overly simplified in order to "make sense" to the general public. But at the same time, as I pointed out earlier, this has fostered a lot of innovation from the OEM's and in turn they have made it safe to just run the spec grade year round by virtue of the various mechanisms employed and verified through extensive testing.
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Originally Posted By: GumbyJarvis
More along the lines I have it and need to find a use for it. It was 5.99$ a jug on clearance at kmart back home.

suppose I can do a trade and have my buddy trade me his ENEOS 0w20 to use in my car and we can use the 5w40 T6 in his whatever year F-100 three on the tree something or another ford.


This is the best reason for using the T6.
You have it, it was a deal, so use it without fear.
Consider that at the starting temperatures you're seeing, your T6 is thinner than was my HGMO 0W-20 for almost every morning from 12/1 through 3/31.
The Accord didn't blow up, nor would it do so were I to run a 5W-40 over the warmer months.
Engines will work just fine on a variety of SAE grades.


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Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Note that I am not advocating he switch from the OEM viscosity, simply pointing out that there's a lot of "the sky is falling" happening regarding running a thicker oil which will likely do nothing other than make the engine feel a bit more sluggish during warm-up.

Exactly. When we look at manuals for the same vehicles outside of North America, we see different grades allowed. Of course, to me, that doesn't mean that other options are "better" or anything like that, but it certainly tells me that something isn't going to blow up by moving up a grade.

I may not be running the "optimal" grade in my G, but big deal. It isn't hurting anything. My truck's next OCI will have a more optimal 5w-30, so that will make up for everything.
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I agree with both of you. Match the viscosity to the climate and driving conditions, they do it in other parts of the world with the same exact engines we're using here. No problems to report as far as I can tell.


Makes sense to me.
 
And the best part is...

YOU can use any oil YOU want... !

Follow the manufacturer recommendations by the book... no issue there.

Want to experiment a little... good for you!

To each his own...!
 
I miss ye olden days when everyone would agree to doing it "as long as you get a darn UOA!" ah well. It'll be done Wednesday.
 
I also run 40wt in all my OE spec'd 30wt motors, My (new to me) explorer spec's 5-30 I went with 0-40 GC.......
 
How interesting. Where did you find that?

Originally Posted By: wsar10
I also run 40wt in all my OE spec'd 30wt motors, My (new to me) explorer spec's 5-30 I went with 0-40 GC.......
 
After 2 OCI's in my new 1996 Ford Contour Zetec 2.0L which spec'd 5W-30 I went and used various synthetic 5W-50 oils in my pre BITOG days
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. It didn't cause any harm except in the actual mpg reduction and seat of the pants acceleration feel. After 2 years I went back to syn blends and full synthetic 5W-30 oils and got my mpg back and my seat of the pants acceleration. I know this is nothing scientific, just my experiences. But no harm was done to the motor. I still use almost no oil between up to 9,000 mile OCI's. But in my case the motor returns better mpg and acceleration with 5W-30, as spec'd by Ford.

Whimsey
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
How interesting. Where did you find that?

Originally Posted By: wsar10
I also run 40wt in all my OE spec'd 30wt motors, My (new to me) explorer spec's 5-30 I went with 0-40 GC.......


I got German Castrol at auto zone, they actually had an oil change special last week, 5qt,bosch filter $34.
 
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
How many of you truly believe the 0-16's coming down the pike is really all about "protection"? LOL


Honda state that it's fuel economy and carbon emissions, while providing "adequate" engine life...their words.

adequate could mean that the engine and chassis fall into the same rusting heap at the same time, not a "pile of failed engines" that is oft called for as evidence on BITOG.

Such could be called the epitome of efficiency, when fuel savings, the recycling costs of the car, and the ultimate silliness in having en engine that would survive three chassis is looked at. Colin Chapman was reputed to state that a properly designed race car would fall apart on the finish line...makes sense if you can define the race, and have the budget to build a brand new car from scratch every time....but there's the cost/efficiency argument coming back into it...his efficiency isn't yours or mine as a car owner.

People don't like to hear that their thin oil of choice isn't the absolute best in terms of engine protection...when it's clearly not the intent of the product that was put through CAFE testing.

CAFE, and the carbon people state that the consumer doesn't put enough enough of their purchasing mindset into fuel economy, and that it's society as a whole (govt) who need to decide for them...and that they consider low viscosity oils as the top of their decision chain when it comes to fuel economy.
 
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