Relevance of changing the oil filter every OCI

I guess if I was so concerned with the cost of a $5 - $10 filter, I'd also use that marginal oil they sell at Dollar Tree. There's no argument that it reduces waste, but if it's the money you're trying to save, give up one luxury item (Starbucks, cigarettes, beer, etc.) per oci and change that nasty filter.

If someone could show me with data why the filter manufacturers, Honda (historically other cars recommended an A/B interval as well) , and the OUA's are wrong, Id be happy to do it - eager in fact. I dont get data, I get "feelings" and underwear stories.
I keep reading that a filter is a quart size when it's really only ~0.2 quart. Usually, there is about 0.5 quart left in the head and oil galleys.
all that depends on the mill and filter - one size doesn't fill all.
 
When there are 2 strongly held but opposite points of view (as in this case), it probably doesn't matter.

I change the filter on my Honda Accord every second change just as Honda recommends. Honda is an engine company and I think they will give good advice on how to take care of my engine. Generally that comes out to about 15,000 km.

I used to change the motor oil at half the recommended interval on my BMW. So naturally I left the filter on for 2 changes. That comes out to about 20,000 km. These high quality filters came out dark brown but were otherwise perfect.
 
Since I got the MityVac, I swap the filter (Fram Ultras or M1) every 2nd or even 3rd (yikes!) service.
As others have said, each to their own and I have not seen evidence of a problem.

The underwear arguement is a false equivalency because you cannot turn an oil filter inside out. Follow the science people!
All good.
 
I usually change the oil filter every oil change but have done 2 OCI'S of 5k each on a Fram Ultra because Ford makes it a PITA to remove the belly shield on my cars. I used a Mityvac. I wouldn't do 2 OCI'S on an oil filter on a dirty (neglected) engine but otherwise I think it's fine using a high quality filter.
Yeah - our Ford Fusion Hybrid had a dinner table under it - but ran oil/filter 10K OCI …
 
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OP, using a quality filter for two intervals shouldn’t be a problem at all, especially given the car’s history. But what would make this an even easier decision is using an oil extractor to remove the sump oil through the dipstick tube. My understanding is this is MB’s current service procedure, but not sure it applies to your example.

I follow this routine with my Hondas. No crawling on the ground or oil splashing about. Heck, don’t even need to don your oil-changing clothes.
I for one dont mind doing it from underneath... It gives me a chance to look around at the bottom side and I let the oil drain for awhile while I go inside and have a cup of coffee..
 
Since I got the MityVac, I swap the filter (Fram Ultras or M1) every 2nd or even 3rd (yikes!) service.
As others have said, each to their own and I have not seen evidence of a problem.

The underwear arguement is apples to oranges because you cannot turn an oil filter inside out. Follow the science people!
All good.

With so many sumps to manage I've come to love topsiders. The quick and easy oil change is the one that most often gets done on time.


You got that right the 07 accord I traded in had 386000 on it and ran great...it was a 2.4 engine.... I wish the HRV had that one....The 1.8 does not have much power...

The mighty K24 was a phenomenal mill.

the 1.8s feel like the old honda trail 70 bike to me - the powerband is one large flat spot.
 
After reading all these comments, and many other posts previously, I have come to the conclusion that everybody should do whatever the heck they feel like is best for them, and not give it another thought. Same with oil brand or viscosity. Since it seems nobody has any PROOF that any of it makes any measureable difference in engine life. Although I am sure some will disagree, but that is my conclusion. Also holds true for additives, or snake oil, or whatever. Are they good, or bad, or a waste of money, or a great thing, is up to each individual.
I do keep reading all this stuff though, even though I do what I will do for my own vehicles etc.
 
With so many sumps to manage I've come to love topsiders. The quick and easy oil change is the one that most often gets done on time.




The mighty K24 was a phenomenal mill.

the 1.8s feel like the old honda trail 70 bike to me - the powerband is one large flat spot.
Agreed. The 2.4 is still around just not in the HRV....too bad...
 
Is it half a quart? You sure about that? On what sump size?

On my titan the filter (xg7317) holds .2L on a 6.2L sump.
It’s definitely a full quart on my L83’s - but 8 quart capacity- only average 5k-6k because of my work schedule …
so no biggie on M1 or VME … 10k-12k on Fram XG …
Can do the mid change without ramps too 😷
 
I for one dont mind doing it from underneath... It gives me a chance to look around at the bottom side and I let the oil drain for awhile while I go inside and have a cup of coffee..


Same thing with a top side though - pump it up and come back in 12- minutes - Put in new oil replace cap.

I get a better view when my rig is on a lift -its not at all any effort for me to get under the rig. It just I dont need to.

IMG_0812.jpeg
 
After reading all these comments, and many other posts previously, I have come to the conclusion that everybody should do whatever the heck they feel like is best for them, and not give it another thought. Same with oil brand or viscosity. Since it seems nobody has any PROOF that any of it makes any measureable difference in engine life. Although I am sure some will disagree, but that is my conclusion. Also holds true for additives, or snake oil, or whatever. Are they good, or bad, or a waste of money, or a great thing, is up to each individual.
I do keep reading all this stuff though, even though I do what I will do for my own vehicles etc.
Well said.......😀
 
Same thing with a top side though - pump it up and come back in 12- minutes - Put in new oil replace cap.

I get a better view when my rig is on a lift -its not at all any effort for me to get under the rig. It just I dont need to.

View attachment 83670
True but when you change it from the bottom you are looking at both the top and the bottom.....:)
 
True but when you change it from the bottom you are looking at both the top and the bottom.....:)

True.... for part of the bottom - you dont see much of the rear crawling under the engine.

I would submit most bottom problems can be tracked by what you find underneath your car in terms of leaks daily, but not all for sure.

I'm blessed /cursed with multiple AWD vehicles needing attention at every end and middle of the rigs.
 
True but when you change it from the bottom you are looking at both the top and the bottom.....:)
I for sure want to do that on my Rubicon … just did … but, it does get in the brush etc …
Her mom mobile ? - either way but I just did drive line fluids and all good under there …
(I do drive line on 4 ramps) …
 
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Yep, you need to factor in the whole package. I change at 5,000 miles usually. If I leave the filter on its usually a Fram XG. ( and I see the the new Fram XG as being a good filter). The oil left behind is serviceable oil anyway. I don’t lose sleep over that. Currently I’m drawing down my stock of Champion filters so I am only using them for one OCI. :)
 
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The up side is your 1.8 will last a long if unexciting time though.
Well my 2.4 had 386000 on it when I traded it in last June....I would be happy with that on the HRV....also I would take the 2.4 in my HRV in a heartbeat...
 
True.... for part of the bottom - you dont see much of the rear crawling under the engine.

I would submit most bottom problems can be tracked by what you find underneath your car in terms of leaks daily, but not all for sure.

I'm blessed /cursed with multiple AWD vehicles needing attention at every end and middle of the rigs.
My 2021 HRV is the first AWD I have owned so it does require the rear Dif. fluid to be changed also..
 
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