Refinish of 35 Marlin 336C

[Chevelle3221]

Lightly sanded the wood stock / fore grip on my old Marlin 35. Used Minwax Penetrating Oil Stain. Finish came out perfect. Is there a need for a clear top coat and if so with what? I am concerned I will mess things (nice finish) up if additional sanding is needed for a clear top coat. Don't know how well the stained wood will hold up in the elements on its own. Ideas/Opinions?

 

[JohnnyG]

Most old Win Model 70 stocks were finished with linseed oil, nothing else. They held up well and could easily be "spruced up" if needed.
The first thing a collector will do with one of these old guns is smell the stock!
If it doesn't smell right, that's a sure sign that it's been refinished.
SO, if you're trying to duplicate the original finish, you can do that. If you just want it to look nicer, that's fine too, but you've already lowered any collector value.

 

[Rand]

you already changed it... less is more. Lowers value

 

[userfriendly]

I seal my wood stocks with Wipe On Poly.

 

[Chevelle3221]

Its my Marlin 336C hunting rifle (not a Winchester 30/30 which I also have) and the scratches on it were bad and from years in the woods. Pictures of the results with the color being spot on. Guess I will leave as is unless there is a non gloss finish I can put over with no issues.

 

[Bobaloo22]

I use boiled linseed oil as well

 

[Astro14]

By sanding, the original finish, you’ve removed any protection that there was. The fact that the stain created a nice even color tells you that there was no finish to block the penetration of the stain. That means there’s no finish to block the penetration of moisture either.

Since this isn’t a collector, and you’ve already changed the original finish, there’s no harm in adding a non-glossy finish to this rifle to protect the wood from water.

One of the simplest to apply is simply a wipe on polyurethane. You wipe it on, wipe off the excess. It leaves a very thin film, and you’ll probably want to do it at least two or three times. If I was looking to protect the wood on something that got hauled around in the outdoors, I would use at least three coats - wipe it on, wipe off the excess, in accordance with the manufacturers directions.

Don’t leave excess finish on the wood, or it ends up getting gummy and sticky.

Less is more in this case.

This product, for example, should be available at places like Lowe’s or Home Depot, and comes in both a satin or gloss finish. A satin finish would be more appropriate for your rifle.

https://www.minwax.com/en/products/protective-finishes/wipe-on-poly-oil-based-polyurethane-finish

 

[Astro14]

I use boiled linseed oil as well

I use boiled linseed oil on the rifles that were originally finished with boiled linseed oil. M1 Garands, or other antiques.

Boiled linseed oil, as a wood finish, has a very long track record. Centuries old.

The basic application process is to wipe it on, and wipe off the access. Do not leave access oil on the wood or it turns gummy and sticky. The old rule of thumb, and it’s a very old rule, is once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, once a year for life.

Yes, that’s a lot of coats, but the the finish actually polymerizes inside the wood. It’s not a surface finish. It’s a penetrating finish. It takes quite a few coats before linseed oil offers any substantial protection against water.

The linseed oil will darken the wood considerably. Especially if you follow the above regimen.

Lindseed oil is a very traditional, non-glossy, gun finish. I’m not sure that’s what Marlin put on it at the factory, however. I think a Marlin of that vintage came with a form of varnish.

So, the wipe on polyurethane would be a lot closer to how the rifle was originally finished.

 

[Chevelle3221]

I use boiled linseed oil on the rifles that were originally finished with boiled linseed oil. M1 Garands, or other antiques.

Boiled linseed oil, as a wood finish, has a very long track record. Centuries old.

The basic application process is to wipe it on, and wipe off the access. Do not leave access oil on the wood or it turns gummy and sticky. The old rule of thumb, and it’s a very old rule, is once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, once a year for life.

Yes, that’s a lot of coats, but the the finish actually polymerizes inside the wood. It’s not a surface finish. It’s a penetrating finish. It takes quite a few coats before linseed oil offers any substantial protection against water.

The linseed oil will darken the wood considerably. Especially if you follow the above regimen.

Lindseed oil is a very traditional, non-glossy, gun finish. I’m not sure that’s what Marlin put on it at the factory, however. I think a Marlin of that vintage came with a form of varnish.

So, the wipe on polyurethane would be a lot closer to how the rifle was originally finished.

Did the wipe on poly in satin. Came out great. Thanks

 

[Astro14]

Did the wipe on poly in satin. Came out great. Thanks

Great! There is great satisfaction in a finish that turns out well, particularly when it’s on an heirloom or sentimental piece.

 

[Chevelle3221]

Just bought some 0000 steel wool for any rust issues on other items.