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Haha, Buy Both and call it a day! haha
Redline...
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Originally Posted By: bluesubie
Maybe Tom could sneak into his old employer and run some Gas Chromatography tests on both.
-Dennis
I wish!
Maybe Tom could sneak into his old employer and run some Gas Chromatography tests on both.
-Dennis
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2010
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Its really tough. I mean, if I was the type of guy that wants to use my car as a guinnie pig then no problem, but dang, Ive got some money tied up in my Evo, not serious cash, but cash still and wow, I am dumbfounded by all the Data.
The only reason I am switching off the M1 EP, or at least considering it, is most tuners agree that more ZDDP would be benificial for my high lift cams, even with the Roller Rockers and such. So I don't know. Redline has a bunch of Moly too, and not sure how my car will like that.
I think the Redline wouldn't hurt anything, and I would use the 5/30 Redline as suggested by Dave. You would think with all the semi experimental stuff I have done to my Evo to make a HP here and there, that I wouldn't be so hung up on oil. But you know, Oil is a BIG deal. Especially on a car you want to keep a long time, and one that makes the power my car does per liter (which is pety at 200bhp p/l compared to some Evo's).
I just Thank Everyone for all their input, I appreciate it.
The only reason I am switching off the M1 EP, or at least considering it, is most tuners agree that more ZDDP would be benificial for my high lift cams, even with the Roller Rockers and such. So I don't know. Redline has a bunch of Moly too, and not sure how my car will like that.
I think the Redline wouldn't hurt anything, and I would use the 5/30 Redline as suggested by Dave. You would think with all the semi experimental stuff I have done to my Evo to make a HP here and there, that I wouldn't be so hung up on oil. But you know, Oil is a BIG deal. Especially on a car you want to keep a long time, and one that makes the power my car does per liter (which is pety at 200bhp p/l compared to some Evo's).
I just Thank Everyone for all their input, I appreciate it.
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
But you know, Oil is a BIG deal. Especially on a car you want to keep a long time, and one that makes the power my car does per liter (which is pety at 200bhp p/l compared to some Evo's).
Then why not shell out for a serious UOA regimen?
But you know, Oil is a BIG deal. Especially on a car you want to keep a long time, and one that makes the power my car does per liter (which is pety at 200bhp p/l compared to some Evo's).
Then why not shell out for a serious UOA regimen?
Originally Posted By: Peromyscus
I've been trying to compare stengths & weaknesses between Group IV (e.g. amsoil) and Group V (e.g. redline) oils. I have been reading, looking for references, etc. Can any of you comment on this or else direct me to a reference that might discuss this in some detail?
You probably will never notice a difference untill the absolute extremes .
I've been trying to compare stengths & weaknesses between Group IV (e.g. amsoil) and Group V (e.g. redline) oils. I have been reading, looking for references, etc. Can any of you comment on this or else direct me to a reference that might discuss this in some detail?
You probably will never notice a difference untill the absolute extremes .
Originally Posted By: bluesubie
I also wouldn't read too much into $30 uoa's in trying to decide either. I blew an OEM Mitsubishi turbo with only 20k on it and no real signs of any problem in the previous uoa.
Interesting I've read that before on this site from a respected member. As a result of reading that and seeing a lot of errors in reports, at the moment I still have little faith in a UOA report.
I also wouldn't read too much into $30 uoa's in trying to decide either. I blew an OEM Mitsubishi turbo with only 20k on it and no real signs of any problem in the previous uoa.
Interesting I've read that before on this site from a respected member. As a result of reading that and seeing a lot of errors in reports, at the moment I still have little faith in a UOA report.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: bluesubie
I also wouldn't read too much into $30 uoa's in trying to decide either. I blew an OEM Mitsubishi turbo with only 20k on it and no real signs of any problem in the previous uoa.
Interesting I've read that before on this site from a respected member. As a result of reading that and seeing a lot of errors in reports, at the moment I still have little faith in a UOA report.
I would never think to check a UOA to see how my turbo was doing (even though it is engine oil lubed and cooled). It won't show me signs of overboost, surge or overspeeding.
Originally Posted By: bluesubie
I also wouldn't read too much into $30 uoa's in trying to decide either. I blew an OEM Mitsubishi turbo with only 20k on it and no real signs of any problem in the previous uoa.
Interesting I've read that before on this site from a respected member. As a result of reading that and seeing a lot of errors in reports, at the moment I still have little faith in a UOA report.
I would never think to check a UOA to see how my turbo was doing (even though it is engine oil lubed and cooled). It won't show me signs of overboost, surge or overspeeding.
We had a member post about a blown engine and had a good UOA report. Lots of mistakes in the UOA section. Maybe 2011 things will change, for now I see little to no value. Sorry.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: bluesubie
I also wouldn't read too much into $30 uoa's in trying to decide either. I blew an OEM Mitsubishi turbo with only 20k on it and no real signs of any problem in the previous uoa.
Interesting I've read that before on this site from a respected member. As a result of reading that and seeing a lot of errors in reports, at the moment I still have little faith in a UOA report.
+1. UOA's don't tell you anything about an immenant(sp?) failure. Its good to tell if you have coolant or issues with filtering but thats about it. Seen plenty of UOA's that look fine but then the customers engines have issues.
Originally Posted By: bluesubie
I also wouldn't read too much into $30 uoa's in trying to decide either. I blew an OEM Mitsubishi turbo with only 20k on it and no real signs of any problem in the previous uoa.
Interesting I've read that before on this site from a respected member. As a result of reading that and seeing a lot of errors in reports, at the moment I still have little faith in a UOA report.
+1. UOA's don't tell you anything about an immenant(sp?) failure. Its good to tell if you have coolant or issues with filtering but thats about it. Seen plenty of UOA's that look fine but then the customers engines have issues.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
We had a member post about a blown engine and had a good UOA report. Lots of mistakes in the UOA section. Maybe 2011 things will change, for now I see little to no value. Sorry.
Sounds like BuickGN.
-Dennis
We had a member post about a blown engine and had a good UOA report. Lots of mistakes in the UOA section. Maybe 2011 things will change, for now I see little to no value. Sorry.
Sounds like BuickGN.
-Dennis
Originally Posted By: bluesubie
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
We had a member post about a blown engine and had a good UOA report. Lots of mistakes in the UOA section. Maybe 2011 things will change, for now I see little to no value. Sorry.
Sounds like BuickGN.
-Dennis
BINGO! The name slipped my mind! Thanks!
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
We had a member post about a blown engine and had a good UOA report. Lots of mistakes in the UOA section. Maybe 2011 things will change, for now I see little to no value. Sorry.
Sounds like BuickGN.
-Dennis
BINGO! The name slipped my mind! Thanks!
From what I've read from a trusted member who has a 4 banger turbo, Redline in his car resulted in quicker turbo spool up. I'm guessing this is from the lubricity of the esters maybe (?). Whatever the reason, this would be reason enough for me to try it in your car if I were you. I plan on trying it again in mine soon, when I get some more money saved up to order a case online.
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Just curious to why so many folks seem to consume Redline the first few oil changes then it mysteriously stops. Any theroies on that? I have some common sense posibilites, but just curious what others think about that.
Quote:
Its really tough. I mean, if I was the type of guy that wants to use my car as a guinnie pig then no problem, but dang, Ive got some money tied up in my Evo, not serious cash, but cash still and wow, I am dumbfounded by all the Data.
The only reason I am switching off the M1 EP, or at least considering it, is most tuners agree that more ZDDP would be benificial for my high lift cams, even with the Roller Rockers and such. So I don't know. Redline has a bunch of Moly too, and not sure how my car will like that.
I think the Redline wouldn't hurt anything, and I would use the 5/30 Redline as suggested by Dave. You would think with all the semi experimental stuff I have done to my Evo to make a HP here and there, that I wouldn't be so hung up on oil. But you know, Oil is a BIG deal. Especially on a car you want to keep a long time, and one that makes the power my car does per liter (which is pety at 200bhp p/l compared to some Evo's).
I just Thank Everyone for all their input, I appreciate it.
{removed video due to profanity in comments}
This video does not appear to have any profanity in its comments, i glanced down under the video, Thanks. (I AM mindful of this now!)
.. What type of Oil do you think is in this Evo? This was in Britain.
Its really tough. I mean, if I was the type of guy that wants to use my car as a guinnie pig then no problem, but dang, Ive got some money tied up in my Evo, not serious cash, but cash still and wow, I am dumbfounded by all the Data.
The only reason I am switching off the M1 EP, or at least considering it, is most tuners agree that more ZDDP would be benificial for my high lift cams, even with the Roller Rockers and such. So I don't know. Redline has a bunch of Moly too, and not sure how my car will like that.
I think the Redline wouldn't hurt anything, and I would use the 5/30 Redline as suggested by Dave. You would think with all the semi experimental stuff I have done to my Evo to make a HP here and there, that I wouldn't be so hung up on oil. But you know, Oil is a BIG deal. Especially on a car you want to keep a long time, and one that makes the power my car does per liter (which is pety at 200bhp p/l compared to some Evo's).
I just Thank Everyone for all their input, I appreciate it.
{removed video due to profanity in comments}
This video does not appear to have any profanity in its comments, i glanced down under the video, Thanks. (I AM mindful of this now!)
.. What type of Oil do you think is in this Evo? This was in Britain.
Last edited by a moderator:
probably mobil 1
Originally Posted By: Lethal1ty17
probably mobil 1
I rather linked that video, though the Lambo is still a "real car" I think that Evo had some MOVES booooy!
{removed video due to profanity in comments}
This -was- pretty amazing.
probably mobil 1
I rather linked that video, though the Lambo is still a "real car" I think that Evo had some MOVES booooy!
{removed video due to profanity in comments}
This -was- pretty amazing.
Last edited by a moderator:
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
Just curious to why so many folks seem to consume Redline the first few oil changes then it mysteriously stops. Any theroies on that? I have some common sense posibilites, but just curious what others think about that.
My consumption stopped 500-1000 miles into the 1st oil change in two different engines. I have no workable theories on it.
Just curious to why so many folks seem to consume Redline the first few oil changes then it mysteriously stops. Any theroies on that? I have some common sense posibilites, but just curious what others think about that.
My consumption stopped 500-1000 miles into the 1st oil change in two different engines. I have no workable theories on it.
Originally Posted By: Ben99GT
My consumption stopped 500-1000 miles into the 1st oil change in two different engines. I have no workable theories on it.
Ben, Interesting observation. Was that using the "moly" oils (everything except 5w40 or 15w40) or the no moly oils (5w40 or 15w40)?
My consumption stopped 500-1000 miles into the 1st oil change in two different engines. I have no workable theories on it.
Ben, Interesting observation. Was that using the "moly" oils (everything except 5w40 or 15w40) or the no moly oils (5w40 or 15w40)?
Jeff, I think Dave at Red Line is one of the best support people in the business. He sticks to the facts. Personally, I would put in the Red Line 5W-30, then get a UOA from Dyson Analysis. Terry Dyson can answer your questions about oil selection, flash point, shear, consumption, deposits, moly, ZDDP, fuel, etc. Also, he has a paid forum called Dyson Mobility Weblog (DMW) for related topics. I presently use both services, and consider it money well spent. However, you should realize this isn't the cheap route, but I think you need a premium level of service.
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