Redline Vs. Syntec

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It is time to perform the 1000 mile oil change on my Audi A4 which came from the factory with a Castrol synthetic, which I am assuming is Syntec. I have never been a fan of Syntec, and am considering switching to Redline 5w-40, which I have used in the past. I want to help the engine remain clean and minimize the chance of turbo failure do to sludge in the oil passageways. What are your thoughts on this?

Thanks in advance for your input!
 
The Castrol synthetic in your car ISN'T 'regular' Syntec. It's an A3-rated 5W-30 that is about 12cst. The nearest replacement for it 'off the shelf' is GC 0W-30, which is a great oil.

There was a thread just recently of a 1.8T engine with the VC off after many miles on GC, and it is spotless.
 
Does the RL 5/40 meet your specs? since your in warranty if so yea i'd use it it's fine quality oil that will do the job your looking for.
 
Mobil 1 0w40 or Castrol Syntec - 0w30 (GC) if you want to satisfy warranty requirements. Redline is an excellent oil though.
 
Originally Posted By: Tribeca
It is time to perform the 1000 mile oil change on my Audi A4 which came from the factory with a Castrol synthetic, which I am assuming is Syntec. I have never been a fan of Syntec, and am considering switching to Redline 5w-40, which I have used in the past. I want to help the engine remain clean and minimize the chance of turbo failure do to sludge in the oil passageways. What are your thoughts on this?

Very unlikely your car has Castrol Syntec as factory fill. Do a UOA and you would know for sure but the 5 UOAs we have for the vw/audi 2.0 FSI factory fill (yours is TSI as you prob. already know) had completely different additive package than castrol. That little castrol lettering on the oil cap is due to marketing. Also Castrol is a very common oil used at the dealer.

Redline 5w40 has been the best performer in terms of flashpoint retention and shear in the fuel-diluting 2.0 FSI so far based on the 50+ UOAs we have. The one exception is a fantastic showing of Brad Penn 10w30 on one UOA on an A4 with over 100k miles. The Redline should do really well on your car. I've been using it since 5k on my 08' FSI.

If you do use redline 5w40 I would love to hear if you notice any difference in turbo spool up.

Re warranty, many people buy and then return vw 502 oil and keep a copy of the receipt for their records. Also keep in mind that 502 oils appear to be inadequate for the fuel-diluting FSI based on expert advice and numerous UOAs on that engine. But we should be careful when extrapolating to the TSI as it is a different engine. The more UOAs we have on the TSI, the better we can evaluate how hard it is on oils and whether 502 oils will cut it in that engine.

Also FYI a thread related to your question here:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1887117&page=1
 
Factory fill is Pentosin for B7 audi's, is yours the new B8? As has been stated, choices are limited for warranty requirements. If you care, then M1 and Syntec are your only readily available options. Mail order will provide a few more in the form of Motul and ELF.
 
Thanks for the info. I am not surprised about the Castrol recommendation on the oil filler cap being just marketing. The dealership seemed unaware of the requirement when I asked what type of Castrol they use, and what I should use to top it off during engine break in. I have been topping it off with syntec. On the Redline website, it states that it meets VW 502 specs, so I assumed it would be OK. I did not realize it needed to be a VW "approved" oil. My A4 model is a B8.

Thanks again for the input!
 
Originally Posted By: BobFout
What bout RLI (aka Biosyn) 5w40?

Biosyn did well but there is very limited UOA data (as I recall one or maybe two at the most). I made a chart back when there were only about 40 UOAs in the database and it was just under Redline 5w40 in terms of viscosity retention. We really need more UOAs on Biosyn. I believe the formulation has changed, so that makes it even more important to get some UOAs.

My impression based on extremely limited data was that it did well but didn't live up to the hype as being "the" solution for fuel dilution. But there is no way to come to a conclusion on that based on the limited data we have IMO, just an impression.

Another impression I got when looking at the data is that most of the 502 PAO-based oils all perform about the same. Which makes sense when we think about the "task" given to the oil formulators, "meet the 502, etc. specification for X dollars." So one could imagine they have different ways to get there but are all aiming for the same spec. Actually I found a quote from Terry Dyson later that said about the same thing (that most all the PAO oils are performing about the same in DI engines). Too bad Terry is not on BITOG anymore as I think he sees a lot of things well before we BITOGers do.
 
Audi wants a 5W-40 in there...so do it!


Amsoil European 5W-40...Redline 5w-40 (Audi Approved)...those would be my top 2 choices.

Too bad Penzoil Ultra Synthetic European 5W-40 is not available here. That would be my first choice as it's what Ferrari dealers use. Maybe you can get some online?
 
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I emailed the dealership before I drop big bucks on oil I could not use. They said "You should be ok, the advisor said that the redline oil Is fine, as long as its full synthetic." I will save this email just in case and proceed with my plan.
 
Good enough. I agree with Saaber, RL seems to perform better on the surface compared to RLI as far as oil condition and wear. I am being partial to RLI since I pay Terry Dyson 100$ each OCI for his advise and thats where his guidence suggests. I am also gambling that the higher NOAK MAY provide better valve cleaning with RLI.
 
The best place that I have found for Redline oil is OG racing.
They have free shipping on orders over $100.
It is where I buy mine.

Give the Redline Oil website a visit......and if you have questions after reading the information there, use the link on the website to send them an email with your question......members have posted here that they are very responsive and informative.
 
Please excuse my ignorance, but what is RLI? I must have missed something along the way. Also, thanks for the recommendation on a good place to buy the stuff. I emailed Redline and Dave recommended 5w-30 (not sure why) and said wait until I have at least 1500 to 2000 miles before switching to RL. I wanted to do a OC at 1000 miles, then again at the required 5000 miles. Now I am more confused than I was before I wrote to them.
 
Originally Posted By: Tribeca
Please excuse my ignorance, but what is RLI? I must have missed something along the way. Also, thanks for the recommendation on a good place to buy the stuff. I emailed Redline and Dave recommended 5w-30 (not sure why) and said wait until I have at least 1500 to 2000 miles before switching to RL. I wanted to do a OC at 1000 miles, then again at the required 5000 miles. Now I am more confused than I was before I wrote to them.

RLI is Renewable Lubricants Inc. Google it for more info. RL usually recommends the thinnest oil that works for the application. In your case, I presume that it's the thinnest one that would have a similar High Temp High Shear to ACEA A3 specs.

Note that Red Line is a great oil, and RLI, but they do not actually have API/ACEA or manufacturer approvals (if that matters to you).
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-Dennis
 
Originally Posted By: Tribeca
I emailed Redline and Dave recommended 5w-30 (not sure why) and said wait until I have at least 1500 to 2000 miles before switching to RL. I wanted to do a OC at 1000 miles, then again at the required 5000 miles. Now I am more confused than I was before I wrote to them.

On the FSI, Redline 5w40 did better than the 5w30. There is a huge difference in thickness between the two, kv100 of 5w30 is 10.8 while 5w40 is 15.1 I think the increased thickness helps with the fuel dilution these cars produce.

The oil consumption doubled and iron numbers were higher when I ran 5w30 on one oil change compared to the 5w40. I noticed no difference in turbo spool up or mpg between the two.

Again that is speaking for the FSI which is not exactly the same as the TSI, but if it were my car I would run the redline 5w40. I am constantly on the lookout for something better but for now redline 5w40 is the best performer I have seen in the fsi.

Waiting until 2k over 1k is not going to hurt anything IMO and may be beneficial. Another strategy that some employ would be to change to GC or similar at 1k and change it again soon thereafter at 2k or 3k or whatever you want and then switch to an ultra low wear oil such as redline or biosyn. This is often done to remove contaminants form break in. Really both strategies may work well.

Two things I can offer is that on my fsi most of the contaminants were already present at 1100 miles when I did my first UOA. The UOA below shows the change from 1100 miles to 5000 miles (oil was not changed at 1100 miles, look at the two columns on the far right). Also the chart below shows the trend for wear on the 2.0 FSI. Where the curve flattens out may indicate when much of the "break in" wear is complete, but it is limited data. x axis is miles on vehicle and y axis is ppm Fe/1000 miles.
redline2711copy2.jpg


m1.jpg
 
Ok, now I have decided to go redline, and purchased a case of 5w-40 oil through OG Racing for a great price. I shot an email to Redline asking for gear oil recommendation, and to confirm my oil choice. Dave replied, but suggested 5w-30 would be best for my Audi not the required 5w-40. I sent him back an email asking why but got a short, not helpful reply in return. Is there a reason I do not know about why I should use 5w-30 redline over 5w-40? I understand this is nit picking, but I would like to know why and hope someone can educate me. He also recommended waiting until I have 1500 to 2000 on the engine for it to break in, but I already have synthetic in the engine.
 
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