Recommendations of oil for my Prelude?

[LewdLude]

Hey guys, first time posting. Just got my hands on a 1998 Honda Prelude (H22A4) and would like some recommendations for the most ideal oil I should be using.

In terms of viscosity, the oil cap of the engine recommends 5w-30, although I have been told that oil recommendation isn't necessarily applicable for higher mileage cars (it's got around 175,000kms) as opposed to factory new cars. The owner's manual also mentions 10w-30 for higher temperatures, and that any oil used must be API SJ Energy Conserving and must also be for Gasoline Engines. The manual has oil changes scheduled for every 7,500 miles / 12,000km / 12 months.

Currently the car is using 10w-40 Shell Helix HX7 (most recent oil change), and I'm unsure as to what it was using previously. The car has a minor oil leak, where around 6 drops or so can be seen on the ground underneath the car after leaving it in the garage overnight. I'm also constantly having to top-up the engine with oil, around 250ml every 400-600km I'd say.

Honestly I'd like to be using something fully synthetic. I don't mind how often I need to change oil as I enjoy doing it, I also don't mind ordering online or buying my oil from a store. I drive the car slow most of the time, but love going fast a few times a week. Most of my trips are around 30 minutes back and forth on busy streets/highways. I do also live in Australia, so most of the time it's hot (25-32 deg. cel. this time of year) but it does get cold too (never sub-zero though).

I've contemplated buying Shell Helix Ultra / Castrol Edge 5w-30 (for supposed better fuel efficiency and better performance), but I'm afraid that using these oils might make the car's oil leak/consumption worse.

Any help or recommendations would be appreciated!

 

[Ethan1]

Easy. Use the recommended viscosity, as you've already determined. Choose a high mileage formulation to combat the oil leak (but don't forget to poke around and try to identify the leak). And go ahead and try something synthetic for best protection. Any oil that meets these requirements is a great oil. I'm currently obsessed with Valvoline MaxLife Full Synthetic High Mileage for my stable of old Fords.

 

[Chris Meutsch]

My friend had a 1994 VTEC and always used either 5 or 10w-30. Never an issue. It's probably still running somewhere. Rust would have killed it by now but the powertrain is perfect.

 

[B320i]

There is no need to use a heavier grade of oil unless the car has serious trouble with noise from the valve train or excessive consumption issues. Either way - those are signs of excessive wear or something needing attention and you shouldn't try to mask them.

If you are concerned about engine wear with a thinner oil - consider doing Used Oil Analysis and comparing it against "Universal Averages" as you'll see on the report.

5w30 and 10w30 will realistically be very similar oils here in 2015 - although in 1998 you would have chosen 10w30 in Australia because oils were generally not as shear resistant in this grade unless perhaps intended for European cars (carrying appropriate certification, e.g. BMW LongLife).
A fully synthetic choice of either option would be fine - whether or not you use "high mileage" formulae is up to you.

My '93 BMW did not see high mileage oil and a valve cover gasket leak was greatly exasperated (incl. leaks into the spark plug wells) as a result. However, I was more concerned knowing the issue was there, rather than trying to cover up the problem.
Having just completed its replacement - let me tell you the thing was like plastic (as were the other rubber components I replaced). It would only be so long until something failed in a bad way, or just leaked more and more oil till a mess was made.

Given the hideous cost of oil here in Australia, you may prefer a semi-synth if the car takes shorter intervals. Even conventional oils are pretty expensive - and given that you need to change them between 5000-7500km, you might be spending more money than with a synthetic option.

Short Version:
Choose a fully synthetic oil in "xW-30" range, choosing high mileage formulae is again entirely optional.

If consumption issues or noise are a problem - consider going back to a "xW-40" oil, or just fixing the problem if possible.

 

[Leo99]

Cool car! I wouldn't spend extra for synthetic if it's only going to leak out overnight. Your top off rate of 250mL/500km is about 1 quart per 1250 miles for the American way of thinking. That's significant.

I'd use an inexpensive high mileage oil, keep it topped off and have fun with the car.

 

[Pepsibottle1]

Nice! The H22 is a great motor and I have nothing but good things to say about them. Bundles of fun!

Unless you're on the loud pedal and sending it to redline on a regular basis, there's no need for anything fancy especially when you're leaking a bit anyhow. If you'd like, you can try a HM like Maxlife and see if that helps; the additive package usually does a good job with revitalizing seals to get you by.

Take the opportunity and run some dye in the oil this time. That way you can easily identify exactly where the leak is coming from.

 

[Rolla07]

Originally Posted By: Leo99
Cool car! I wouldn't spend extra for synthetic if it's only going to leak out overnight. Your top off rate of 250mL/500km is about 1 quart per 1250 miles for the American way of thinking. That's significant.

I'd use an inexpensive high mileage oil, keep it topped off and have fun with the car.


^^^This^^^

 

[Mau]

Had a 99 Prelude, tried all kinds of oil on it but the two I went for the most was Castrol 0w30 or Amsoil 5w30 signature series.

The h22 by nature consumes a bit of oil between changes, if yours is leaking as well you are going to see more top ups.

Loved that car, have fun with it.

 

[06VtecV6]

Originally Posted By: LewdLude


Any help or recommendations would be appreciated!


Wrong group to ask. These Us ppl, most of the lot anyway, are reporting from mild to moderate (think: pleasant) climate 8 out of 12 months so they will tell you the exact opposite of your climate! You being in AU need 10w on up and I would seriously consider the "and on up" if you do any type of consistent spirited driving that heat up the oil temps considerably.(think: heat is an enemy of engines, relatively speaking, cause an engine CAN TAKE A (LOT) OF HEAT operating at 215 and can see upwards of 215F to 300F (on up to the 400s+)!!) 5w or 0w are formulations are angled and guarantee priority for cold climates that could get at to 0 or below 0 (ex: -30) but for anyone who will never even get close (ex: 20F or r even 30F), will(you) only need 10w on up! It's a simple rule of thumb any caveman can do. These "mild and moderate" of the "good ole united" states predominantly (think: not to the exclusion to) live in mild to moderate weather cycle 8 to 9 months of the 12 in a year so they will recommend the wrong viscosity (anything less than a 10w) Australia needs 10w-xx period, point blank end of story accept it and move on. The longer you wait this thread off, the more wrong or incorrect and quite BIASED responses you will get based on their mild The Honda Accord I just got out of had the Vtec V6 and it needed all of 1-30 and then some. I wold consider the "and then some" in Australia so never consider 5w or 0w, never ever..those weights are for mild and moderate climate and normal or average bear cycle. You are in Australia and require a LOT more my friend and you need a 10w-xx 8 or 9 months out of the year if not year around(preferable) remember 10-30 on up to the exclusion of all these mild and moderate 5w and 0w oil barons.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: 06VtecV6
Originally Posted By: LewdLude


Any help or recommendations would be appreciated!


Wrong group to ask. These, most of the lot anyway, are reporting from mild and pleasant climate 8 out of 12 months so they will tell you you need 5w or 0 w wen those for anyone who gets at or below 0F or "freezing". The mild and moderate people all live in mild to moderate weather cycle 8 to 9 months of the 12 in a year so they will recommend the wrong viscosity (anything less than a 10w) Australia needs 10w-xx period, point blank end of story accept it and move on. The longer you wait this thread off, the more wrong or incorrect and quite BIASED responses you will get based on their mild The Honda Accord I just got out of had the Vtec V6 and it needed all of 1-30 and then some. I wold consider the "and then some" in Australia so never consider 5w or 0w, never ever..those weights are for mild and moderate climate and normal or average bear cycle. You are in Australia and require a LOT more my friend and you need a 10w-xx 8 or 9 months out of the year if not year around(preferable) remember 10-30 on up to the exclusion of all these mild and moderate 5w and 0w oil barons.


OP: This guy hasn't the most remote semblance of a clue. While the Winter rating of the oil isn't going to be overly important due to your location, some of the best oils on the market carry the 5w-xx and 0w-xx designations due to the applications they are developed for and the broad range of climates those vehicles are sold in.

Avoiding oils based on their Winter rating is just as idiotic as promoting the use of an oil with a lower winter rating just based on that fact alone. It ignores that oils are developed to meet various performance targets and that generally the products that meets the most demanding list of targets are going to be the best "bargain" for that level of performance (whether you need it or not is a completely different topic). Oils like Mobil 1 0w-40, Castrol 0w-40, Pennzoil Ultra Euro 5w-40....etc, these all are approved for the most demanding gasoline approvals out there.

Now, your application is not one of those demanding gasoline applications and it would likely do just fine on the spec 5w-30. However, there's nothing wrong with running a 5w-40 or even a 15w-40 if it doesn't get cold. It isn't going to have any real affect on mileage and those grades are generally HDEO's with more robust additive packages or, if speaking of the former, a Euro oil.

What are the local "deals" you can get on various oils?

 

[Shannow]

OVERKILL is right (on every point BTW).

I'm on record as stating that all other things being equal, I'd take a 10W30 over a 5W30...but here in Oz, that doesn't work, as there is no equivalence...there aren't anywhere near the spread of products that the US has.

So I can't choose a 10W30 synthetic against a 5W30 synthatic.

15W anything is a dino, we have 15W40 PCMOs, GTX and XLD are examples.

10W30 (pretty much 10W anything) is a semi synth at best. And not many of them are "Energy Conserving". Valvoline Engine armour IS energy conserving, but many of them are ACEA A3/B4 with the extra HTHS that comes wwith it.

5W30 (again 5W anything really) allows a vast range of synthetics, some with energy conserving, some with A3/B4.
Personal fave is Edge 5W30 A3/B4, which can be had at reasonable prices when on special. Couple of flavours of Chief, Shell, there's a new Magnatec Stop Start that's 5W30 synthetic A3/B4.

Personally, I'd go with a 5W30 A3/B4

edit...here's a pretty good spread of what I'm getting at. Hope that US viewers can open it

Supercheap Auto catalogue, go to page 2

 

[06VtecV6]

Originally Posted By: LewdLude

I've contemplated buying Shell Helix Ultra / Castrol Edge 5w-30 (for supposed better fuel efficiency and better performance), but I'm afraid that using these oils might make the car's oil leak/consumption worse.

Any help or recommendations would be appreciated!


My Lewd friend,

Exactly and precisely why you need a 10w on up in addition to heat control(AU climate is VERY similar to SE texas here and that is hot + HUMIDity (extreme) as well as consumption control and that is the reasoning (and science) behind why you need 10w-xx on up year around (or round as the fat people call it)

 

[bbhero]

I agree with 100% of what OVERKILL and you both stated. Quick question I have is this... Why would you choose a 10w30 over a 5w30 synthetic if given the choice?? I'm just curious

thanks a lot as always.

 

[Shannow]

bbhero, typically less VII polymers, and a slightly thicker, less volatile basestock.

Like I said, only in the context of all other things being equal.

If I have to choose between a 10W30 or 10W40 semi and a 5W30 or 5W40 synthetic, I'll take the 5W.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: bbhero
I agree with 100% of what OVERKILL and you both stated. Quick question I have is this... Why would you choose a 10w30 over a 5w30 synthetic if given the choice?? I'm just curious

thanks a lot as always.


I'll answer (and Shannow can expound as necessary) but I envision two scenarios where one would be preferable over the other:

1. Both synthetic, ILSAC/API rated oils (HTHS around 3) the 10w-30 will have lower volatility than the 5w-30 generally.

2. Both synthetic, but the 5w-30 is a Euro-spec oil, the 5w-30 will be preferable and have a higher HTHS, a more robust additive package and possibly lower volatility (though that will vary).

 

[bbhero]

Ohh I know what you meant in context of course

Ok, so let me run this choice by ya... If you had to choose between say Mobil Super Synthetic 5w30 that's Dexos approved and Mobil Super Synthetic 10w30 full synthetic which one would you choose?? With temps that don't go below -20°C hardly ever.. I'm curious.

 

[Shannow]

I'd probably go the dexos route on that one...more, and tougher certifications. Not saying that the 10W30 wouldn't pass the testing, just that the 5W30 IS certified.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: Shannow
I'd probably go the dexos route on that one...more, and tougher certifications. Not saying that the 10W30 wouldn't pass the testing, just that the 5W30 IS certified.

 

[bbhero]

Well that makes sense to me in that way of thought process. I just got a $29 special from O Reilly's the other day. And Advance Auto parts has it on special this month for $25 that comes with a filter. Which I am pleased with because I can find it on sale regularly between several auto parts chains. Well I have a Fram Ultra on my Altima plus a Wix waiting in the wings. So oil filter needs are covered for the year ahead pretty much

I will change the filter early IF I decide to run a different oil than what I'm running currently. I have been very pleased with MSS in my car. Motor looks very good when I look through the fill cap.

 

[Bigdaddy345]

Give M1 EP a try.