Recommendations of oil for my Prelude?
- Thread starter LewdLude
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Oh? I was unaware.
Hi OP,
Welcome and Happy New Year to you and all the BITOGers.
Right now you have a 10W-40 in the car. In Australia these are typically semi-synthetics that are API SN and ACEA A3/B4 rated. They are good oils and very commonly used and easily available. Typical examples are Shell HX7, Castrol Magnatec, and Valvoline Engine Armour. All semi-synthetic 10W-40, SN, A3/B4. You can also get an Engine Armour that is 15W-40 with the same specs.
Most of the 10W-30 oils are also semi-synthetic, but Energy Conserving (ILSAC) instead of Euro ACEA (long drain and robust) rated. The Valvoline Engine Armour and Shell HX7 are both 10W-30 API SN and ILSAC GF-5. Castrol make a semi-syn Magnatec Fuel Saver that is also SN & GF-5 but is 5W-30.
Note Castrol also made a Magnatec Stop-Start that was semi-syn, 10W-30, SN & ACEA A3/B4 (not ILSAC). This has recently been replaced by a new Magnatec Stop-Start that is a full synthetic 5W-30, and still API SN & ACEA A3/B4. Both are still on the shelves.
OK, you are interested in full synthetics 5W-30 oils. Yes they are very good oils. Some good local examples are Castrol Edge A3/B4 (API SL), Castrol Magnatec Stop-Start 5W-30 ( SN, A3/B4), Shell Helix HX8 (SN, A3/B4) and Penrite EveryDay synthetic 5W-30 ( SL, A3/B4). The Magnatec, Penrite and HX8 are often at pretty good prices. The API SL rated oils contain a little more zinc anti-wear agent over the SN oils.
Some people mentioned High Milage (HM) oils. In Australia (unlike other countries) we only get these as very thick oils. Castrol HM GTX 15W-40, Valvoline MaxLife 20W-50 and Shell Helix HX7 15W-50 are good examples. They are thick to resist burning in the engine, but also contain extra seal conditioners.
So what would I do? Well if your are consuming oil with a 10W-40 semi-synthetic, then you would probably consume even more with a 5W-30 full synthetic. So I would just stay with the 10W-40 oil. Right now (2-3 Jan) Castrol Magnatec 10W-40 is half price at AutoBarn. A good oil at a good price.
You could try one oil change with a HM oil, to try and condition the seals, then switch back to 10W-40. Or find the leaky seal and fix it.
Yes a full synthetic is a good oil, but I don't think your car needs anything special. We have no cold start issues in Australia, and the other advantage to full synthetic is longer drain intervals. But I would just keep to what Honda say and use a regular semi-syn, they are a lot cheaper in Oz than a 5W-30, 5W-40, 0W-40 full synthetics.
If there is any confusion with other comments made by different people not matching up, I would always follow the advice of OverKill and Shannow first.
Enjoy your ride.
Welcome and Happy New Year to you and all the BITOGers.
Right now you have a 10W-40 in the car. In Australia these are typically semi-synthetics that are API SN and ACEA A3/B4 rated. They are good oils and very commonly used and easily available. Typical examples are Shell HX7, Castrol Magnatec, and Valvoline Engine Armour. All semi-synthetic 10W-40, SN, A3/B4. You can also get an Engine Armour that is 15W-40 with the same specs.
Most of the 10W-30 oils are also semi-synthetic, but Energy Conserving (ILSAC) instead of Euro ACEA (long drain and robust) rated. The Valvoline Engine Armour and Shell HX7 are both 10W-30 API SN and ILSAC GF-5. Castrol make a semi-syn Magnatec Fuel Saver that is also SN & GF-5 but is 5W-30.
Note Castrol also made a Magnatec Stop-Start that was semi-syn, 10W-30, SN & ACEA A3/B4 (not ILSAC). This has recently been replaced by a new Magnatec Stop-Start that is a full synthetic 5W-30, and still API SN & ACEA A3/B4. Both are still on the shelves.
OK, you are interested in full synthetics 5W-30 oils. Yes they are very good oils. Some good local examples are Castrol Edge A3/B4 (API SL), Castrol Magnatec Stop-Start 5W-30 ( SN, A3/B4), Shell Helix HX8 (SN, A3/B4) and Penrite EveryDay synthetic 5W-30 ( SL, A3/B4). The Magnatec, Penrite and HX8 are often at pretty good prices. The API SL rated oils contain a little more zinc anti-wear agent over the SN oils.
Some people mentioned High Milage (HM) oils. In Australia (unlike other countries) we only get these as very thick oils. Castrol HM GTX 15W-40, Valvoline MaxLife 20W-50 and Shell Helix HX7 15W-50 are good examples. They are thick to resist burning in the engine, but also contain extra seal conditioners.
So what would I do? Well if your are consuming oil with a 10W-40 semi-synthetic, then you would probably consume even more with a 5W-30 full synthetic. So I would just stay with the 10W-40 oil. Right now (2-3 Jan) Castrol Magnatec 10W-40 is half price at AutoBarn. A good oil at a good price.
You could try one oil change with a HM oil, to try and condition the seals, then switch back to 10W-40. Or find the leaky seal and fix it.
Yes a full synthetic is a good oil, but I don't think your car needs anything special. We have no cold start issues in Australia, and the other advantage to full synthetic is longer drain intervals. But I would just keep to what Honda say and use a regular semi-syn, they are a lot cheaper in Oz than a 5W-30, 5W-40, 0W-40 full synthetics.
If there is any confusion with other comments made by different people not matching up, I would always follow the advice of OverKill and Shannow first.
Enjoy your ride.
Some sound advice from the regular Aussie members, as well as Overkill in this thread.
If you're after some variety in M1's offerings of motor oil, I would suggest you check out GL Lubricants on eBay (Store: http://www.gllubricants.com/index.php?c=product&a=list&pid=67&product_id=80)
Price seems roughly on par with the likes of Supercheap online stores, and he stocks a large variety of M1 products (imported), included the HM fully synthetic options a couple of members from the USA have suggested which aren't usually available here in Australia.
If you're after some variety in M1's offerings of motor oil, I would suggest you check out GL Lubricants on eBay (Store: http://www.gllubricants.com/index.php?c=product&a=list&pid=67&product_id=80)
Price seems roughly on par with the likes of Supercheap online stores, and he stocks a large variety of M1 products (imported), included the HM fully synthetic options a couple of members from the USA have suggested which aren't usually available here in Australia.
Originally Posted By: bbhero
Ohh I know what you meant in context of course
Ok, so let me run this choice by ya... If you had to choose between say Mobil Super Synthetic 5w30 that's Dexos approved and Mobil Super Synthetic 10w30 full synthetic which one would you choose?? With temps that don't go below -20°C hardly ever.. I'm curious.
A good question bbhero. Just SR5 here, not Shannow, but ...
I love the idea of a full synthetic 10W-30, but no such animal exists here. If it did and I was caught between a rock and a hard place, I would follow Shannow's lead and get the Dexos product. With such a lack of data in product PDS sheets, the achieved standards are your only sure sign posts to quality.
BTW Sorry for the double post above. Fat thumbs and thin buttons.
Ohh I know what you meant in context of course
Ok, so let me run this choice by ya... If you had to choose between say Mobil Super Synthetic 5w30 that's Dexos approved and Mobil Super Synthetic 10w30 full synthetic which one would you choose?? With temps that don't go below -20°C hardly ever.. I'm curious.
A good question bbhero. Just SR5 here, not Shannow, but ...
I love the idea of a full synthetic 10W-30, but no such animal exists here. If it did and I was caught between a rock and a hard place, I would follow Shannow's lead and get the Dexos product. With such a lack of data in product PDS sheets, the achieved standards are your only sure sign posts to quality.
BTW Sorry for the double post above. Fat thumbs and thin buttons.
Originally Posted By: 06VtecV6
My Lewd friend,
Exactly and precisely why you need a 10w on up in addition to heat control(AU climate is VERY similar to SE texas here and that is hot + HUMIDity (extreme) as well as consumption control and that is the reasoning (and science) behind why you need 10w-xx on up year around (or round as the fat people call it)
Thing is, that 10w rating on the oil is only going to be in play for a very short period. Then the oil becomes a 30/40 grade regardless if its 0w, 5w, or 10w. I don't think there's a lot of oil "consumption" going on during the brief warm up period when the oil is cool.
I also don't see what difference humidity plays in whether you select a 5w or 10w. Maybe someone from the US South East coast regions can explain the science to me. Does 10w pick up less water than 5w during warmup or cool down cycles? Doesn't excess water get removed at full operating temps during extended runs? If consumption control is of concern, that should be a debate between the 30/40 grades assuming everything else on your engine is working as designed. Consumption can also be adjusted by using conventional vs. synthetic, or HM vs. regular oils, etc.
Your oil loss could be from a leaky valve cover, rear main seal, or PCV valve leakage rather than from internal engine blow by. Knowing the source helps in what oil you select.
My Lewd friend,
Exactly and precisely why you need a 10w on up in addition to heat control(AU climate is VERY similar to SE texas here and that is hot + HUMIDity (extreme) as well as consumption control and that is the reasoning (and science) behind why you need 10w-xx on up year around (or round as the fat people call it)
Thing is, that 10w rating on the oil is only going to be in play for a very short period. Then the oil becomes a 30/40 grade regardless if its 0w, 5w, or 10w. I don't think there's a lot of oil "consumption" going on during the brief warm up period when the oil is cool.
I also don't see what difference humidity plays in whether you select a 5w or 10w. Maybe someone from the US South East coast regions can explain the science to me. Does 10w pick up less water than 5w during warmup or cool down cycles? Doesn't excess water get removed at full operating temps during extended runs? If consumption control is of concern, that should be a debate between the 30/40 grades assuming everything else on your engine is working as designed. Consumption can also be adjusted by using conventional vs. synthetic, or HM vs. regular oils, etc.
Your oil loss could be from a leaky valve cover, rear main seal, or PCV valve leakage rather than from internal engine blow by. Knowing the source helps in what oil you select.
The saturation limit of a lubricant depends on the material’s qualities, e.g., base oil type, additives, contamination or components due to degradation. The limit value changes in relation to the actual number of free water molecules. This parameter varies during the operating life of hydraulic and lubricating fluids depending on the changes in the fluid. This aspect is especially relevant when it is necessary to determine oil-specific saturation curves, because the mathematical relationship between the saturation limit and the water value in ppm of the fresh product might change after some time in use.
From that I would gather that trying to predict moisture degradation of a 5w-30 vs. 10w-30 motor oil would be quite difficult. Those two oils could have varying base oil stocks and hence different moisture absorption qualities. Considering that more R&D seems to be going into the 0w and 5w oils (as well as mfg approvals) it's quite possible the 5w will show better moisture control. Moisture in the oil can also come from the fuel. In any case, moisture effects can be removed by extended runs and changing the oil.
Moisture in oils
Another article
From that I would gather that trying to predict moisture degradation of a 5w-30 vs. 10w-30 motor oil would be quite difficult. Those two oils could have varying base oil stocks and hence different moisture absorption qualities. Considering that more R&D seems to be going into the 0w and 5w oils (as well as mfg approvals) it's quite possible the 5w will show better moisture control. Moisture in the oil can also come from the fuel. In any case, moisture effects can be removed by extended runs and changing the oil.
Moisture in oils
Another article
Your fine SR5
I agree that the Dexos approved oil is a better way to go. I agree with you, Shannow, and OVERKILL that the Dexos oil is the best way forward. I like how the Mobil Super Synthetic has run plus I can find it on sale regularly. Win win
I agree that the Dexos approved oil is a better way to go. I agree with you, Shannow, and OVERKILL that the Dexos oil is the best way forward. I like how the Mobil Super Synthetic has run plus I can find it on sale regularly. Win win
Wow, thank you all for your responses and information. Happy New Year by the way.
I've read through each and every single post meticulously. You've all given me a lot to consider! So much so, that I think my brain is about to burst!
I have to admit, I'm also ecstatic to see fellow aussies chiming in on the discussion as well. You guys are basically saying that really the only fully synthetic oils in Australia are the 5w-XX oils am I correct? If so, does that mean the Nulon 10w-30 / 10w-40 "Full Synthetic" oils aren't actually fully synthetic even though they claim to be? I remember reading a review somewhere stating that that was the case, as I was actually considering using these oils too.
In regards to the oil leak, I believe it's coming from the corner of my valve cover, so I'm planning on getting the gasket replaced at Honda in the near future. Hopefully that would be all that is needed, but I fear that there may be additional leak locations that need to be addressed as everything is actually very oily when looking upwards from underneath the car... The suggestion from Pepsibottle1 to put some dye into the oil next oil change is unprecedented to me and seems like a great idea. I think I may just do it depending on how costly and effective it is.
When it comes to sales on oils in Australia... it seems like I've just missed the decent ones for 5w-30 fully synthetic oils, with the most recent sale (Castrol Edge) being around 2-3 weeks ago. I've been keeping a lookout but haven't spotted anything yet, and I can't say that these kind of sales are very common. Although, I'd like to thank SR5 for the heads up on the 10w-40 Magnatec sale at Autobarn. I would have probably picked one up had I not already had a few spare 1L bottles of HX7 left in the garage.
In all honestly, my original thoughts about buying a full syn. 5w-30 have only been strengthened by the comments from OVERKILL and Shannow (In addition to the link provided by B320i for HM 5w-30 oils, I didn't know it was possible to get HM oils of that viscosity here in Australia). However, I am still considering the 10w-30 / 10w-40 Nulon route if they are actually proven to be fully synthetic. I am indeed also aware that if I switch to the lighter oil my oil problems will probably be exacerbated (and my wallet problems too hehe), but I feel like it will be a good thing that I will at least be more inclined to fix the root problem instead of just covering it up as B320i stated. I would just have to cross my fingers that the oil leak can be solved without much strife.
I have to admit, I'm also ecstatic to see fellow aussies chiming in on the discussion as well. You guys are basically saying that really the only fully synthetic oils in Australia are the 5w-XX oils am I correct? If so, does that mean the Nulon 10w-30 / 10w-40 "Full Synthetic" oils aren't actually fully synthetic even though they claim to be? I remember reading a review somewhere stating that that was the case, as I was actually considering using these oils too.
In regards to the oil leak, I believe it's coming from the corner of my valve cover, so I'm planning on getting the gasket replaced at Honda in the near future. Hopefully that would be all that is needed, but I fear that there may be additional leak locations that need to be addressed as everything is actually very oily when looking upwards from underneath the car... The suggestion from Pepsibottle1 to put some dye into the oil next oil change is unprecedented to me and seems like a great idea. I think I may just do it depending on how costly and effective it is.
When it comes to sales on oils in Australia... it seems like I've just missed the decent ones for 5w-30 fully synthetic oils, with the most recent sale (Castrol Edge) being around 2-3 weeks ago. I've been keeping a lookout but haven't spotted anything yet, and I can't say that these kind of sales are very common. Although, I'd like to thank SR5 for the heads up on the 10w-40 Magnatec sale at Autobarn. I would have probably picked one up had I not already had a few spare 1L bottles of HX7 left in the garage.
In all honestly, my original thoughts about buying a full syn. 5w-30 have only been strengthened by the comments from OVERKILL and Shannow (In addition to the link provided by B320i for HM 5w-30 oils, I didn't know it was possible to get HM oils of that viscosity here in Australia). However, I am still considering the 10w-30 / 10w-40 Nulon route if they are actually proven to be fully synthetic. I am indeed also aware that if I switch to the lighter oil my oil problems will probably be exacerbated (and my wallet problems too hehe), but I feel like it will be a good thing that I will at least be more inclined to fix the root problem instead of just covering it up as B320i stated. I would just have to cross my fingers that the oil leak can be solved without much strife.
LewdDude,
I'm positive that the Nulon 10W30 is labelled a semi, but you got me with the 10W40...pds here
http://www.nulon.com.au/images/files/productbulletins/PB-HT10W30.pdf
http://www.nulon.com.au/images/files/productbulletins/PB-SYN10W40.pdf
Interesting use of terminology in the product specs...
"ACEA claims", and "MB claims" ... they are claiming their oil would pass the tests, but the are not certified against those claims.
They claim ACEA A3/B3, and A3/B4, but on their A3/B4 "claims" page, the 10W40 is again a semi synth.
http://www.nulon.com.au/specs/21/366/ACEA_A3%252FB4-12?gclid=CjwKEAiA5Ji0BRC5huTCyOTR3wISJACH4Bx4zqcGK0OjYkzwss1IEFIKNoQbRc30N4GypLl75YD0PRoCHY7w_wcB
Which matches with my memory of orange bottles.
Regardless with their claims versus actual approvals, I'd not worry about them, when they are priced the same as other actually certificated oils.
If you go by claims, and not certification, then Chief holds as much water as Nulon's claims, and is cheaper.
I'm positive that the Nulon 10W30 is labelled a semi, but you got me with the 10W40...pds here
http://www.nulon.com.au/images/files/productbulletins/PB-HT10W30.pdf
http://www.nulon.com.au/images/files/productbulletins/PB-SYN10W40.pdf
Interesting use of terminology in the product specs...
"ACEA claims", and "MB claims" ... they are claiming their oil would pass the tests, but the are not certified against those claims.
They claim ACEA A3/B3, and A3/B4, but on their A3/B4 "claims" page, the 10W40 is again a semi synth.
http://www.nulon.com.au/specs/21/366/ACEA_A3%252FB4-12?gclid=CjwKEAiA5Ji0BRC5huTCyOTR3wISJACH4Bx4zqcGK0OjYkzwss1IEFIKNoQbRc30N4GypLl75YD0PRoCHY7w_wcB
Which matches with my memory of orange bottles.
Regardless with their claims versus actual approvals, I'd not worry about them, when they are priced the same as other actually certificated oils.
If you go by claims, and not certification, then Chief holds as much water as Nulon's claims, and is cheaper.
I've just checked out the SuperCheapAuto (SCA) web site, it lists:
Castrol Magnatec Stop-Start, Full Synthetic, 5W-30 at $52 for 5L regular price.
Nulon Semi-Synthetic (Orange bottle) 10W-40 as $40 for 5L regular price.
Nulon Full Synthetic (Gold bottle) 10w-40 as $56 for 5L regular price, or $65 for a 6 L bottle.
BUT !!!
Right now at SCA, and until 16 January, they have 30% OFF
Castrol Edge (with Ti) 5W-40 Full Synthetic, which is spec'd API SN, ACEA A3/B4, BMW LL-01, VW 502/505, MB 229.3, RN 0710/0700 and Porsche A40. The regular price is $75 for 5L, but right now it is $50.
For $50 I would get myself some Porsche quality, full synthetic, Castrol Edge 5W-40.
Also, until 3rd January, at AutoBarn, they have 25% of Castrol Edge (with Ti) Full Synthetic 5W-30, A3/B4, SL, MB 229.5, BMW LL-01, VW 502/505. Right now it too is $50 for 5L (regular price is $70). The MB 229.5 is probably one of the best oils standards out there.
My 2 cents, get some top quality Castrol Edge in your car, either 5W-30 or 5W-40, both for $50 right now.
If you do want Nulon gold bottle 10W-40 synthetic, AutoBarn have $10 off their 6L bottles. So you should be able to pick it up at $50 to $55 for 6 L. But only for the next two days.
Have Fun
Castrol Magnatec Stop-Start, Full Synthetic, 5W-30 at $52 for 5L regular price.
Nulon Semi-Synthetic (Orange bottle) 10W-40 as $40 for 5L regular price.
Nulon Full Synthetic (Gold bottle) 10w-40 as $56 for 5L regular price, or $65 for a 6 L bottle.
BUT !!!
Right now at SCA, and until 16 January, they have 30% OFF
Castrol Edge (with Ti) 5W-40 Full Synthetic, which is spec'd API SN, ACEA A3/B4, BMW LL-01, VW 502/505, MB 229.3, RN 0710/0700 and Porsche A40. The regular price is $75 for 5L, but right now it is $50.
For $50 I would get myself some Porsche quality, full synthetic, Castrol Edge 5W-40.
Also, until 3rd January, at AutoBarn, they have 25% of Castrol Edge (with Ti) Full Synthetic 5W-30, A3/B4, SL, MB 229.5, BMW LL-01, VW 502/505. Right now it too is $50 for 5L (regular price is $70). The MB 229.5 is probably one of the best oils standards out there.
My 2 cents, get some top quality Castrol Edge in your car, either 5W-30 or 5W-40, both for $50 right now.
If you do want Nulon gold bottle 10W-40 synthetic, AutoBarn have $10 off their 6L bottles. So you should be able to pick it up at $50 to $55 for 6 L. But only for the next two days.
Have Fun
I had a Prelude many years ago. Put around 240000 on it. And tried many oils. I can tell you only one recommendation: no matter what oil viscosity you use don't use full synthetic. 10W-30 or 10W-40 is perfect. Change oil every 10000-12000 км.
Originally Posted By: Ded Mazai
I had a Prelude many years ago. Put around 240000 on it. And tried many oils. I can tell you only one recommendation: no matter what oil viscosity you use don't use full synthetic. 10W-30 or 10W-40 is perfect. Change oil every 10000-12000 км.
Curious about why not full synthetic. I put 353,000 miles on my 89 Accord (wrecked it in 2012) using full syn 10W-30. I switched to Rotella syn 5W-40 in the later years due to leaky valve guides. Made a big difference.
I had a Prelude many years ago. Put around 240000 on it. And tried many oils. I can tell you only one recommendation: no matter what oil viscosity you use don't use full synthetic. 10W-30 or 10W-40 is perfect. Change oil every 10000-12000 км.
Curious about why not full synthetic. I put 353,000 miles on my 89 Accord (wrecked it in 2012) using full syn 10W-30. I switched to Rotella syn 5W-40 in the later years due to leaky valve guides. Made a big difference.
Ludicrous,
I just wanted to mention that even though I have been crowing about 10-30 on up for same climate(among other things like FE), if you look at my sig, I had much success with using a 5w-20 year around with (seriously speaking with a sample size of MANY years) +2 mpg however I have to explain that that car was originally speced for 5w-30 as an average for the entire country so basically(or not so basic) 10-30 on up in our climates. In addition, right now we are in winter so 5w-30 can be considered until the 9 out 12 months of heat + humidity spark up inevitably! My point is there may be aberrations and anomalies with certain oil that gives it outstanding characteristics (think FE, hp etc) that may jump the chain!
P.S. Preludes are known to maybe use oil so that should of PARAMOUNT (pictures) importance in your decision for "and on up" in reference to using 10-30 "and on up" !!
I just wanted to mention that even though I have been crowing about 10-30 on up for same climate(among other things like FE), if you look at my sig, I had much success with using a 5w-20 year around with (seriously speaking with a sample size of MANY years) +2 mpg however I have to explain that that car was originally speced for 5w-30 as an average for the entire country so basically(or not so basic) 10-30 on up in our climates. In addition, right now we are in winter so 5w-30 can be considered until the 9 out 12 months of heat + humidity spark up inevitably! My point is there may be aberrations and anomalies with certain oil that gives it outstanding characteristics (think FE, hp etc) that may jump the chain!
P.S. Preludes are known to maybe use oil so that should of PARAMOUNT (pictures) importance in your decision for "and on up" in reference to using 10-30 "and on up" !!
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: DBMaster
Curious about why not full synthetic. I put 353,000 miles on my 89 Accord (wrecked it in 2012) using full syn 10W-30. I switched to Rotella syn 5W-40 in the later years due to leaky valve guides. Made a big difference.
My Prelude started to drink oil after 4000-5000 km on oil if it was synthetic. And the oil turned pitch black. Conventional oil stayed reasonably light and never required to top off. The car consumed some oil. But synthetic oils simply did not last. Maybe some synthetic oils would work well but for me they didn't.
Curious about why not full synthetic. I put 353,000 miles on my 89 Accord (wrecked it in 2012) using full syn 10W-30. I switched to Rotella syn 5W-40 in the later years due to leaky valve guides. Made a big difference.
My Prelude started to drink oil after 4000-5000 km on oil if it was synthetic. And the oil turned pitch black. Conventional oil stayed reasonably light and never required to top off. The car consumed some oil. But synthetic oils simply did not last. Maybe some synthetic oils would work well but for me they didn't.
Originally Posted By: B320i
Some sound advice from the regular Aussie members, as well as Overkill in this thread.
If you're after some variety in M1's offerings of motor oil, I would suggest you check out GL Lubricants on eBay (Store: http://www.gllubricants.com/index.php?c=product&a=list&pid=67&product_id=80)
I keep forgetting them...I buy my diff oils off them, but forget about the engine oil side of things...good call.
Some sound advice from the regular Aussie members, as well as Overkill in this thread.
If you're after some variety in M1's offerings of motor oil, I would suggest you check out GL Lubricants on eBay (Store: http://www.gllubricants.com/index.php?c=product&a=list&pid=67&product_id=80)
I keep forgetting them...I buy my diff oils off them, but forget about the engine oil side of things...good call.
Hi again guys, I just wanted to quickly clear something up.
Is it normal for bottles of oil (exact same brand / type) to have varying amounts of oil in them?
Say for example the bottles are supposed to be "1 Quart bottles of oil", except some bottles have a little less and some have a little more (for example 100ml give or take).
I purchased some Mobil 1 10w-40 HM oil from GLLubricants which is the place that B320i recommended (thought I'd play it safe before I switched to the 5w-30 HM version). However, it seems each bottle of oil isn't filled at a reasonably consistent amount. I'd honestly assume a big company like Mobil 1 would be more consistent with their portions per bottle...?
Is it normal for bottles of oil (exact same brand / type) to have varying amounts of oil in them?
Say for example the bottles are supposed to be "1 Quart bottles of oil", except some bottles have a little less and some have a little more (for example 100ml give or take).
I purchased some Mobil 1 10w-40 HM oil from GLLubricants which is the place that B320i recommended (thought I'd play it safe before I switched to the 5w-30 HM version). However, it seems each bottle of oil isn't filled at a reasonably consistent amount. I'd honestly assume a big company like Mobil 1 would be more consistent with their portions per bottle...?
Originally Posted By: Shannow
100ml in a quart is wildly excessive however.
That's what I was thinking... I'm honestly concerned as to whether these oils are genuine or not.
Especially considering the fact that they were so cheap for being "imported oils", and that the owners weren't native English speakers either...
100ml in a quart is wildly excessive however.
That's what I was thinking... I'm honestly concerned as to whether these oils are genuine or not.
Especially considering the fact that they were so cheap for being "imported oils", and that the owners weren't native English speakers either...
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