Possible Sludge

[00Crew]

Ok guys, I recently purchased a 2000 Nissan Frontier 3.3L with 92,000 miles. I never once thought about looking through the oil fill hole BEFORE purchasing a vehicle, but I have, and if what is below the fill hole is any indication, I have some pretty good sludge going on.

The previous owner didn't drive it much, just short trips, so I am guessing it is like this due to sitting a lot, and the oil being old, even if the miles were ok between changes.

The 3.3 engine isn't a known sludge engine that I know of, so I am at a loss. I will be changing the valve cover gaskets in a few weeks to fix a leak, and will then be able to get a good look, and of course will post a picture on here.

Once taking the valve covers off, is it ok to clean the sludge by hand with rags and a shop vac? I know I would need to be careful not to loosen and leave any large pcs that could clog the passageways, or would you guys advise against touching it, and just letting MMO or ARX run its course? I am thinking about removing it by hand depebnding on how bad it is, along with either MMO or ARX.

I am currently running PYB with a WIX filter. Any brand of oils you would reccomend during the cleaning phase?

Thanks for any and all help guys!

 

[Hemi426]

I wouldn't bother with ARX or any other special product. I would get a putty knife and scrape the big pieces out. After you put it back together fill her up with Pennzoil Ultra and a good filter and let it clean itself.

 

[znode]

I'd say if you're opening the cover in a few weeks you don't really need to do anything special until then. I'd hold on speculating whether or not you have sludging under you can see something other than the fill hole.

If you do, then well, short interval Red Line if you can afford it, HDEO if you can't, if it's anything other than severe sludging that might put it at risk for breakdown.

If it IS severe sludging... plastic scraper and kerosene time?

 

[Jax_RX8]

Stick with the PYB and run 1/2 qt MMO for 1000 miles, change oil with 1 full qt of MMO and rest PYB - run normal OCI, repeat.

Some will say to only do this until clean, but I use PYB with a full qt MMO substitution for every OCI and am very pleased. When I started this on my older vehicle (74k miles at the time, 92k now), it took the first 1000 mile run plus the full OCI (5k) to get it clean with maybe a little more cleaning the 2nd full OCI.

Now it just keeps it that way, with some additional EP additives for additional protection (TCP) along the way.

 

[00Crew]

Well, to be clear, since the 3.3 only holds 3.5 quarts, would it be safer to just run 3/4 quart of MMO instead of a full quart?

Like said above, I will know what I am in for in a few weeks (would do it sooner, but I want to be able to dedicate a whole weekend to do it since the intake plenum has to be removed for the passenger side) when I remove the valve covers.

Hopefully the spot is just below the fill hole, but i doubt it.

 

[wiswind]

If you are taking the valve covers off......I found that simple green did a nice job cleaning the inside of valve covers......full strength......let it soak in.....and use a paint brush.
Make SURE that your PCV system is functioning......not clogged with sludge in the baffel.

I see that Felpro has a nice set of PermaDry valve cover gaskets for your 2000 3.3L Frontier.......I would STRONGLY recommend those, very nice gaskets.
You dry fit them.....NO added sealants.

For my '96 windstar.....with 220K miles....I found that I did not need the new "grommets"......the "grommet" fits onto the valve cover bolt, like a washer......sits on the outside of the valve cover.
Since I had them, I used them, but it was not necessary in my case.
If cost is an issue, $16.00 without grommets, $28.89 with new grommets....for your vehicle through Rockauto.

A CLOTH rag soaked with Berryman's B-12 Chemtool cleans up the gasket seating area very nicely.
Cloth won't shred like paper will.

As far as your question about MMO, I have never used it.....but I would tend to do as you say......3/4 quart instead of a full quart in your 3.5 quart system.

 

[pennzoil_guru]

Waiting for Captai Kirk to pop in and say that Synlube will help.

The simple green advice is good. Maybe give PU a try.

 

[00Crew]

Originally Posted By: wiswind
If you are taking the valve covers off......I found that simple green did a nice job cleaning the inside of valve covers......full strength......let it soak in.....and use a paint brush.
Make SURE that your PCV system is functioning......not clogged with sludge in the baffel.

I see that Felpro has a nice set of PermaDry valve cover gaskets for your 2000 3.3L Frontier.......I would STRONGLY recommend those, very nice gaskets.
You dry fit them.....NO added sealants.

For my '96 windstar.....with 220K miles....I found that I did not need the new "grommets"......the "grommet" fits onto the valve cover bolt, like a washer......sits on the outside of the valve cover.
Since I had them, I used them, but it was not necessary in my case.
If cost is an issue, $16.00 without grommets, $28.89 with new grommets....for your vehicle through Rockauto.

A CLOTH rag soaked with Berryman's B-12 Chemtool cleans up the gasket seating area very nicely.
Cloth won't shred like paper will.

As far as your question about MMO, I have never used it.....but I would tend to do as you say......3/4 quart instead of a full quart in your 3.5 quart system.


Yes, I have plenty of simple green to use.

I do plan on getting the Fel Pro with the gromments, I have that, new PCV Valve, Intake Plenum Gasket, and new spark plugs in my RockAuto shopping basket. Looking forward to finally digging into the engine, but scared at what I may find.

 

[stranger706]

OK going out on a limb here.

If it does end up being sludged I suggest you clean it properly, the old fashioned way, and not with some magic oil or additive.

Sorry if I hit a nerve but sludge needs to be removed immediately.

After that just run regular oil and filter.

 

[00Crew]

Originally Posted By: stranger706
OK going out on a limb here.

If it does end up being sludged I suggest you clean it properly, the old fashioned way, and not with some magic oil or additive.

Sorry if I hit a nerve but sludge needs to be removed immediately.

After that just run regular oil and filter.


Old Fashioned way as in remove what you can by hand, or dis-assemble the heads and dip them? (As the 2nd one isn't an option for me right now.)

 

[stranger706]

Well, both if its bad. But if thats all you can do then thats all you can do.

Any idea about the bottom?

 

[wiswind]

I have used the rag soaked with the berryman's to wipe things that I can reach.
Again....CLOTH so you don't leave shredded bits of paper towel all over the place in there.

HOWEVER, if you go to town with wiping.......before you put the cleaned valve cover, with the new gasket.......drizzel new oil over the valvetrain......so that you don't have a "dry start".
I am thinking overhead cam here.......just a bit of oil on the lobes.

If the oil pan is easy to drop.....you might do that and clean the inside of it out.
However, if it is a situation where you have to remove exhaust system parts to remove the oil pan......I would pass on the oil pan cleaning.....as you might open a bigger can of worms than you need to by all that dissassembly.
I am not familiar with your vehicle/motor, some are a easy on/off for the oil pan.....some are a pain.
Of course, you would need a oil pan gasket......looks like they use a RTV type (sensor safe) sealant for your oil pan....with end seal gaskets.

 

[00Crew]

Originally Posted By: wiswind
I have used the rag soaked with the berryman's to wipe things that I can reach.
Again....CLOTH so you don't leave shredded bits of paper towel all over the place in there.

HOWEVER, if you go to town with wiping.......before you put the cleaned valve cover, with the new gasket.......drizzel new oil over the valvetrain......so that you don't have a "dry start".
I am thinking overhead cam here.......just a bit of oil on the lobes.

If the oil pan is easy to drop.....you might do that and clean the inside of it out.
However, if it is a situation where you have to remove exhaust system parts to remove the oil pan......I would pass on the oil pan cleaning.....as you might open a bigger can of worms than you need to by all that dissassembly.
I am not familiar with your vehicle/motor, some are a easy on/off for the oil pan.....some are a pain.
Of course, you would need a oil pan gasket......looks like they use a RTV type (sensor safe) sealant for your oil pan....with end seal gaskets.


I would actually like to remove the oil pan and check it, but you have to remove all sorts of stuff yo get it off

 

[saberz]

Don't bother with ARX, use MMO if you want to do cleaning. The 3.3L is not a sludger, its just poor maintenance on the previous owners part.

Make sure you change the PCV valve on 3.3L @ 92k its due and its cheap insurance($10 at Nissan). It's super easy to replace, run some MMO in the engine for a full OCI(use 1/2 a quart) w 3 quarts of your preferred oil, run it for 3k miles. Use a decarbonizing agent like Seafoam through the brake booster(do it at night in an empty parking lot). Clean out lots of the gunk, do this towards the end of the OCI.

The Xterra/Nissan 3.3L takes a beating and even with lots of neglect can be cleaned up very quick and easy. Also, do the timing belt now or within the next few thousand miles if you haven't, longest is 105k MAX. In the year I had my 04 Xterra w/ 3.3L VG33E I learned a lot from the guys on ClubXterra and ClubFrontier, and the one important thing was the engines are indestructible.

 

[lipadj46]

Take some pics. Sludge pictures are like porn around here, in a good way.

 

[saberz]

Yeah, you don't have to hide it from your wife!

 

[00Crew]

Originally Posted By: Anies
Don't bother with ARX, use MMO if you want to do cleaning. The 3.3L is not a sludger, its just poor maintenance on the previous owners part.

Make sure you change the PCV valve on 3.3L @ 92k its due and its cheap insurance($10 at Nissan). It's super easy to replace, run some MMO in the engine for a full OCI(use 1/2 a quart) w 3 quarts of your preferred oil, run it for 3k miles. Use a decarbonizing agent like Seafoam through the brake booster(do it at night in an empty parking lot). Clean out lots of the gunk, do this towards the end of the OCI.

The Xterra/Nissan 3.3L takes a beating and even with lots of neglect can be cleaned up very quick and easy. Also, do the timing belt now or within the next few thousand miles if you haven't, longest is 105k MAX. In the year I had my 04 Xterra w/ 3.3L VG33E I learned a lot from the guys on ClubXterra and ClubFrontier, and the one important thing was the engines are indestructible.


I like the 3.3s. My dad has an 04 Frontier with th 3.3. and my mom has a 2000 Pathfinder with the 3.3. I will be checking their fill holes also. And as far as the timing belt, I will be doing that soon, wish me luck

I tried to get a good fill hole picture, but the tube is just too long and I can't get a good picture, there will deff be some pictures when the valve covers come off.

I do have a question though, I am running 10w30 now, but I was planning to switch to 5w30, will the 5w30 and MMO be ok, or will that make the oil too thin?

Also, the oil that the PO labeled as out in the truck the last time was 10w40, could this have had anything to do with the sludge? I am thinking he did this to try and stop or slow the oil leak.

Will an oil analysis show any problems from the sludge? I have the B Labs free shipping container I was going to use on my Tundra but never got around to it.

Thanks for all of the replies guys!

 

[addyguy]

Originally Posted By: Jax_RX8
Stick with the PYB and run 1/2 qt MMO for 1000 miles, change oil with 1 full qt of MMO and rest PYB - run normal OCI, repeat.

Some will say to only do this until clean, but I use PYB with a full qt MMO substitution for every OCI and am very pleased. When I started this on my older vehicle (74k miles at the time, 92k now), it took the first 1000 mile run plus the full OCI (5k) to get it clean with maybe a little more cleaning the 2nd full OCI.

Now it just keeps it that way, with some additional EP additives for additional protection (TCP) along the way.


^^ This ^^

 

[Brons2]

Originally Posted By: 00Crew


I like the 3.3s. My dad has an 04 Frontier with th 3.3. and my mom has a 2000 Pathfinder with the 3.3.


I don't. The VG33 is a pig compared to the later VQ motors, it has less power with worse fuel economy, and is crude and noisy. I owned a 98 Pathfinder with the VG33.

 

[matt922]

mom drives 00' frontier with the 3.3. Simple engine that seems like it is designed to last forever.

To remove the driver side valve cover, i believe you will have to remove the intake manifold. While you are in there it would be a very wise move to change the spark plugs.