For the track redline 100%. Ive got so many UOAs and experience with the stuff. I like to stick to known values for track cars
Porsche GT3 /RS A40 Oil
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Its thinner than thier 50w oils. Your correct in the fact that heavy oils generally heat up faster due to more energy/friction needed to pump them. But I've seen lots of light race oils get to temp much faster because of the application. You have any experience with lightweight qualifying oils? Ive seen 10w oils get up to temp crazy fast
Its thinner than thier 50w oils
No way. You kidding me?
50ws are right around 5 HTHS.
is there any practical way to know when oxidation appears? any symptom? or just on a UOA?
since i had a problem with fuel dilution recently and messed up my engine, is there any practical way to know when is appearing? bmws are very prone to fuel dilution i heard.
i know there was a topic that there was a short mention about that. some of us were surprised bcs. we thought the opposite .and i didn't ask ..so i ask now:
an oil with hths 4 heats up faster than an oil with 3.5.i am using min. bmw ll04-01 limits.
in engine terms what does that mean?
does it mean an oil with 4 hths has probably KV 40 = 70-80 degrees and that heats up faster? than another one with hths of 3.5 wich has KV40=60 degrees?
and last question. amsoil, redline, hpl are all without approvals. they all claim the ''suitable with'' or ''suggest '' terms. then why you praise redline and hpl ?
Because when you are using your vehicle beyond the normal use so here, effectively a race car, having oils that push on certain limits that may move them out of the approved range can be beneficial and allow the company to have more room to create a robust final product. All three are respected boutique oils and anyone should be at ease using them even not having the approvals. They aren't for everyone but in the long OCI, track, etc. use-case, they can be v. good choices. With that said, M1 etc. is also "just fine" - dealer's choice basically.
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OVERKILL
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Get a UOA from Polaris/OAI (you can buy the OAI kits through AMSOIL) which properly measure both fuel dilution and oxidation. Make sure you have a VOA done first (baseline) so that you know what the reference point for oxidation is.
AMSOIL and HPL, assuming we are talking about their premium oils designed for Euro applications, start with an approved additive package and then further develop the product from there. So you will see typical levels of phosphorous in the HPL and AMSOIL Euro oils, but will see better viscosity retention due to the use of better VII's.
Redline, as I mentioned earlier, has historically used an "old school" blending methodology, by just having much higher levels of conventional metallic additives. There was some talk about modernizing the formulas, but I'm not sure if that was ever completed. They've always blending their oils on the heavy side as well.
It uses mobil 1 ilsac levels of detergent and alot of zddp. Whats unknown is boron content
Ilsac for me would be non starter.
He's trolling you!
I doubt it's ILSAC based. He's probably wrong. The Corvette has been using ESP oils for a while now.
Yes. But, their version.
Yeah I know lol. I keep it professional
It shows in the PDS 740ppm calcium and 730ppm magnesium, maybe their flip flopped im going off memory. Im not saying its based on an ilsac oil just that its using mobil 1s ilsac levels of detergents
Lol. Professional?
All oils mentioned in that discussion are thinner than RL 0W40, and than you drop 0W50.
I mean…
I thought there was a discussion about 50w oils. Thats what I was comparing it to. Its the internet, I dont take things online to seriously. You race any cars? Working on getting this ready
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I don’t. I track my car. But, not sure what that has to do with discussion.
Their oils are good, there is no doubt about it. However it is absolutely unnecessary to run such thick oil in OP Porsche.
Only track oils/super quick OCI (less than 5,000km) oils I would use for my super cars would be:
HPL, Redline (non black bottles) and Motul 300v.
After each track day I would go home (or at the track if possible) drain and refill the oil with a new filter.
The proof is here you can hit the track and daily for a bit etc. But, with those cars, money shouldn’t really be an object. Grand scheme of things, oil is cheap compared to a blown motor etc. Also, don’t just focus on the fluid in the motor. Use quality coolant, brake/clutch fluid, trans fluid, diff fluid etc.
HPL, Redline (non black bottles) and Motul 300v.
After each track day I would go home (or at the track if possible) drain and refill the oil with a new filter.
The proof is here you can hit the track and daily for a bit etc. But, with those cars, money shouldn’t really be an object. Grand scheme of things, oil is cheap compared to a blown motor etc. Also, don’t just focus on the fluid in the motor. Use quality coolant, brake/clutch fluid, trans fluid, diff fluid etc.
Amsoil Dominator oils have a fantastic reputation as well.
Mobil 1 Racing 0w30/50 too.
www.mobil.com
Mobil 1 Racing 0w30/50 too.
Mobil 1 Racing™ 0W-30 | Mobil™ Motor Oils
Mobil 1 Racing™ 0W-30 is for racing engines. Its high-performance, full synthetic formula is specially balanced for friction reduction and optimum horsepower with outstanding wear protection.
www.mobil.com
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