I'd go with the Motul Gen 2
1k mile OCI seems a bit nuts though unless it's a lot of track time.
1k mile OCI seems a bit nuts though unless it's a lot of track time.
I was rather astonished but I see these things all the time it just varies in degree.Man, I must not be doing it right then ahahahah. Likely no children b/c 200K/500K house...just middle class these days.
Lecture Given! I'm sure that's why he came here.You, as well as no one else here, can say with any absolute certainty that any lube on that list (or others you've left off such as HPL or Amsoil) will be "best" (using your definition). You've listed a dozen products which would vie for the title of "best". It would take, quite literally, hundreds of thousands of dollars of manpower, lab resources and real-world testing to declare a "best".
You're barking up a hypothetical tree with no real hope of any sane answer.
You already have acknowledged the choices you face (licensed vs. suitable for use).
Pick one and move on.
I know people suggest all oils that meet a spec are equal but here is a short timeline.I'd go with the Motul Gen 2
1k mile OCI seems a bit nuts though unless it's a lot of track time.
I run Driven DT40 in my 2007 Cayman S. It has a lot of moly and boron to try and stave off bore scoring when the factory crappy Ferroprint piston coating starts flaking off, letting the piston run against the crappy Lokasil cylinder walls. The moly helps act as a cushion. Also, only has about 2/3rds of the detergents that the SN Mobil 1 0W40 FS has, letting the anti-friction additives work better. Also has a fair amount of esters too. Liqui-moly and Motul are decent too, without as many detergents as Mobil 1 FS too. If I was going to run a Mobil 1 oil, it would be either the new 0W40 or 5W50 Supercar with Dexos R approval. I've seen it priced around $10-11 a quart vs $15-16 for the driven.
2K miles and 2 changes is hardly enough to establish a UOA baseline. Using UOAs for comparing oils based on wear metal values isn't how it works.I want to establish a good uoa wear baseline with A40 approved oil for 2 changes or 2000 miles.
2K miles and 2 changes is hardly enough to establish a UOA baseline. Using UOAs for comparing oils based on wear metal values isn't how it works.
That sounds like a plan. But I would agree with @oliver88 , you need to drive that sucker.I've learned that, hence I said I want to establish a base wear metal value on the specified oil, to establish a baseline. I am more interested in uoa for early signs of anonamlys in the future, than wear rate comparisons. If iron spikes, it's time to take action.
I used Redline 40 weight in my 944 GTS1 2.7 liter race motor for 5 seasons. These motors were famous for eating the #2 rod bearings...we had the crank cross drilled and the oil pan baffled as a preventative "band-aid". After 2 seasons and 60 hours I pulled the pan and #2 was in exceptional condition as were the rest of the rod bearings. We continued that schedule the rest of the time we had that car. Over the years on other 944 motors we had used VR1, Brad Penn, Mobil 1, etc....and we had indeed burned up #2 rod bearings. RL was a Hero in this regard in my case ! Good stuff indeed.Red Line for the win! I will stick my neck out for the BITOG chopping block. Red Line is the "BEST".
Red Line for the win! I will stick my neck out for the BITOG chopping block. Red Line is the "BEST".
The 0W-40 still has a fairly moderate VI and excellent HTHS.If FCPeuro sold Redline 5w40 I would try it, only 0w40 though.
The 0W-40 still has a fairly moderate VI and excellent HTHS.
You do have a 911 GT3 RS, so you're probably not eating instant ramen . If you are going to be super picky on the oil, do you really have to order from FCP for the store credit? I could not be bothered to ship used motor oil anywhere if I'm honest.
If there is a more anal marque of car owners please enlighten me. Apologies in advance to those who may be highly offended.