"Best" FCPEuro A40 / C40 Oil

I run Driven DT40 in my 2007 Cayman S. It has a lot of moly and boron to try and stave off bore scoring when the factory crappy Ferroprint piston coating starts flaking off, letting the piston run against the crappy Lokasil cylinder walls. The moly helps act as a cushion. Also, only has about 2/3rds of the detergents that the SN Mobil 1 0W40 FS has, letting the anti-friction additives work better. Also has a fair amount of esters too. Liqui-moly and Motul are decent too, without as many detergents as Mobil 1 FS too. If I was going to run a Mobil 1 oil, it would be either the new 0W40 or 5W50 Supercar with Dexos R approval. I've seen it priced around $10-11 a quart vs $15-16 for the driven.
 
All good choices.

Not a common brand here but Torco makes high end oils as well. They're pretty upfront too about what they use - mPAO, PAO, III+, IV, V including AN's. They have a 0w40 grade.
 
You, as well as no one else here, can say with any absolute certainty that any lube on that list (or others you've left off such as HPL or Amsoil) will be "best" (using your definition). You've listed a dozen products which would vie for the title of "best". It would take, quite literally, hundreds of thousands of dollars of manpower, lab resources and real-world testing to declare a "best".

You're barking up a hypothetical tree with no real hope of any sane answer.

You already have acknowledged the choices you face (licensed vs. suitable for use).
Pick one and move on.
Lecture Given! I'm sure that's why he came here.
 
I'd go with the Motul Gen 2

1k mile OCI seems a bit nuts though unless it's a lot of track time.
I know people suggest all oils that meet a spec are equal but here is a short timeline.

I honestly can’t remember if I did a 1000mile oil and filter change, I don’t think I did.

At approx 8000 miles I bought Motul Specifc 508/509 for my daughters Q2 when I did the 1st oil change, it only take just over 3.5 litres and it was super expensive for 5 litres, like over £60.

At approx 15k miles the 2nd oil change done by Audi using their brand of 508/509

At approx 26k mile I had the 3rd oil change done by a local garage I get my tyres and brakes done at as I didn’t have time to do it, used Valvoline Synpower 508/509.

It now has 32k miles and is going into Audi for its next service in about a month or so.

The only oil that required a significant top up was the Audi 508/509, a litre.

I have documented on a previous post that I had to add the recommended top up oil as 508/509 wasn’t available when the oil top up light came on in the middle of the night when I got the “I have a warning message” phone call from my daughter.

She may not be mechanically inclined but she looks after her cars, or rather gets me to look after them!

Now Audi only use the correct oil, I checked levels before leaving the Dealer and it was the correct slightly green hue.

I just checked the oil today and the Valvoline has required a small top up, from just over halfway on the dipstick to just under full, probably added about 200ml

This is not a scientific experiment

But say what you want, in similar mileages in similar conditions Motul used no oil and the Audi branded oil and Valvoline needed top ups.

The experiment likely won’t have a true conclusion because the car is coming to the end of the PCP Lease and she doesn’t want to pay the balloon payment.

So she will be selling and using the equity to buy something freehold or buying a Q3

If she decides to keep it then it will be getting Motul Specific 508/509 when I next do an oil change.

If only Motul was easier to purchase, I have only found it in OpieOils, no local motor factors stock it.
 
I run Driven DT40 in my 2007 Cayman S. It has a lot of moly and boron to try and stave off bore scoring when the factory crappy Ferroprint piston coating starts flaking off, letting the piston run against the crappy Lokasil cylinder walls. The moly helps act as a cushion. Also, only has about 2/3rds of the detergents that the SN Mobil 1 0W40 FS has, letting the anti-friction additives work better. Also has a fair amount of esters too. Liqui-moly and Motul are decent too, without as many detergents as Mobil 1 FS too. If I was going to run a Mobil 1 oil, it would be either the new 0W40 or 5W50 Supercar with Dexos R approval. I've seen it priced around $10-11 a quart vs $15-16 for the driven.

I picked up some more Mobil 1 FS X2 5W50 since it was $58 bucks for 10 quarts on Napa. No brainer for now. I want to establish a good uoa wear baseline with A40 approved oil for 2 changes or 2000 miles.

Agree on the Mobil 1 5w50 Supercar. Information from a good source is it's Mobil 1 ESP reforumulated to 5w50, more moly, ZDDP, and less detergents, shows better wear than ESP or Euro. I might try it next.

Really like the Driven DI and DT40, but this forum is generally very meh about both of them.
 
2K miles and 2 changes is hardly enough to establish a UOA baseline. Using UOAs for comparing oils based on wear metal values isn't how it works.

I've learned that, hence I said I want to establish a base wear metal value on the specified oil, to establish a baseline. I am more interested in uoa for early signs of anonamlys in the future, than wear rate comparisons. If iron spikes, it's time to take action.
 
Indycx, I understand and appreciate what you're trying to do, I have been there before with some of our race motors believe me ! Don't take this the wrong way but you are wasting time and $$ and at the same time it seems like you really aren't enjoying your 911. Meaningful UOA trends will take many, many miles/hours to assemble and you really aren't going to see useful data with 1000 mile OCI's. These motors are now 8-9 years old and plenty of Porsche owners have managed to "fix" the possible flaws.....I'd focus on that so that you can have some fun !! I hope you understand what I'm saying, not at all trying to be condescending, just offering some perspective. Now go for a drive my friend !!
 
I've learned that, hence I said I want to establish a base wear metal value on the specified oil, to establish a baseline. I am more interested in uoa for early signs of anonamlys in the future, than wear rate comparisons. If iron spikes, it's time to take action.
That sounds like a plan. But I would agree with @oliver88 , you need to drive that sucker.
 
Guys, for sure I am enjoying the car. It's awesome. As an engineer (well now just a people manager), I just have a nature to obsess about every little detail. On my road racing bicycles I chase chain lube, tires, and aero. On my GT3 RS, lately it's been upgrading the interior and obsessing about oils. It's really a hobby, because I have OCD. I don't at all lose sleep about, like I do work. 😁I drive the car every nice day I can. I can't drive it to work as I work for a competing brand, and it wouldn't be a good look, so it doesn't get many miles either way. Not really worried about the engine failing on me. It is likely I will get bored off the car and replace it before that day comes, if ever.

I'm coming up on 750 miles since Nov. I'll change the Mobil 1 FS X2 5w50 soon. Mostly interested to see the fuel oil dilution and how much it sheared.
 
Red Line for the win! I will stick my neck out for the BITOG chopping block. Red Line is the "BEST".
 
Red Line for the win! I will stick my neck out for the BITOG chopping block. Red Line is the "BEST".
I used Redline 40 weight in my 944 GTS1 2.7 liter race motor for 5 seasons. These motors were famous for eating the #2 rod bearings...we had the crank cross drilled and the oil pan baffled as a preventative "band-aid". After 2 seasons and 60 hours I pulled the pan and #2 was in exceptional condition as were the rest of the rod bearings. We continued that schedule the rest of the time we had that car. Over the years on other 944 motors we had used VR1, Brad Penn, Mobil 1, etc....and we had indeed burned up #2 rod bearings. RL was a Hero in this regard in my case ! Good stuff indeed.
 
If FCPeuro sold Redline 5w40 I would try it, only 0w40 though.
The 0W-40 still has a fairly moderate VI and excellent HTHS.

You do have a 911 GT3 RS, so you're probably not eating instant ramen 🤣 . If you are going to be super picky on the oil, do you really have to order from FCP for the store credit? I could not be bothered to ship used motor oil anywhere if I'm honest.
 
The 0W-40 still has a fairly moderate VI and excellent HTHS.

You do have a 911 GT3 RS, so you're probably not eating instant ramen 🤣 . If you are going to be super picky on the oil, do you really have to order from FCP for the store credit? I could not be bothered to ship used motor oil anywhere if I'm honest.

I own a GT3 RS, but I grew up poor, and that stays with you. 😁 I do love Ramen though.

It doesnt have to be from FCPEuro. I bought the filter from them. That's easy to ship back, and it's pricey. I doubt after my first encounter with putting 8 quarts of oil into single containers I would do it again. Gallon containers, maybe. :)
 
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