Porsche GT3 /RS A40 Oil

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M1 5W50 is a good choice. Do UOA to check how much it sheared.

That is is kind of my thinking. Looking at a lot of oil analysis's it looks like all the Mobil Euro oils shear down well below their range during usage. The 5W50 ends up like a 40, and the 5w40, ends up like a 30, and so on.

Attached is a Porsche owner who used Mobil 1 5w50, 0w40, and Motul 5w40.

One interesting oil I found lookimg later is the Mobil 1 5W50 Supercar.

https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants.../our-products/products/mobil-1-supercar-5w-50

According this forum, and mobil is it's Mobil 1 5w50 X2 with more ZDDP for anti wear.

Thoughts on the Mobil 1 Supercar?
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/mobil-1-supercar-5w50-pds.361626/
 

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I would add if you're going to the non-approved side, stick with HPL/Amsoil/Red Line. The others boutique brands are questionable IMO.
Motul Sport Ester/300v arent questionable at all. Im assuming HPL has good products, but 300v is the standard in Europe for track oils.
 
That is is kind of my thinking. Looking at a lot of oil analysis's it looks like all the Mobil Euro oils shear down well below their range during usage. The 5W50 ends up like a 40, and the 5w40, ends up like a 30, and so on.

Attached is a Porsche owner who used Mobil 1 5w50, 0w40, and Motul 5w40.

One interesting oil I found lookimg later is the Mobil 1 5W50 Supercar.

https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants.../our-products/products/mobil-1-supercar-5w-50

According this forum, and mobil is it's Mobil 1 5w50 X2 with more ZDDP for anti wear.

Thoughts on the Mobil 1 Supercar?
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/mobil-1-supercar-5w50-pds.361626/
Some oils will shear slightly and then regain viscosity via oxidation at the end of the OCI (ex, 10k miles). This leads people to incorrectly assume that an oil shears when they change it early. I imagine Porsche owners have twice the anxiety as BMW owners and change their oil at too short of an interval because they're scared to death of engine failure. They see some shear and freak out.
 
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Some oils will shear slightly and then regain viscosity via oxidation at the end of the OCI (ex, 10k miles). This leads people to incorrectly assume that an oil shears when they change it early. I imagine Porsche owners have twice the anxiety of BMW owners and change their oil are too short of an interval because they're scared to death of engine failure. They see some shear and freak out.
True.

That's why it's important to get oxidation reading on a VOA/UOA.
 
There are some UOA of 0W40 300V, which had less oxidative thickening than Mobil1 0W40.
300V compared to M1 5W50 has much lower KV100 (13.5cst) but HTHS is very close to M1 at 4.1cP. Personally, I would go 300V if out of warranty. It is standard among Porsche owners who track vehicles.
Another oil you might consider is HPL. We have a ton of evidence here that it is extremely shear stable. Do not forget, you want high HTHS and grade retention, NOT high KV100 at the start that will shear fast!
 
That is is kind of my thinking. Looking at a lot of oil analysis's it looks like all the Mobil Euro oils shear down well below their range during usage. The 5W50 ends up like a 40, and the 5w40, ends up like a 30, and so on.

Attached is a Porsche owner who used Mobil 1 5w50, 0w40, and Motul 5w40.

One interesting oil I found lookimg later is the Mobil 1 5W50 Supercar.

https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants.../our-products/products/mobil-1-supercar-5w-50

According this forum, and mobil is it's Mobil 1 5w50 X2 with more ZDDP for anti wear.

Thoughts on the Mobil 1 Supercar?
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/mobil-1-supercar-5w50-pds.361626/
In that analysis 0W40 did shear down, but not as much as 5W50 % wise.
 
There are some UOA of 0W40 300V, which had less oxidative thickening than Mobil1 0W40.
300V compared to M1 5W50 has much lower KV100 (13.5cst) but HTHS is very close to M1 at 4.1cP. Personally, I would go 300V if out of warranty. It is standard among Porsche owners who track vehicles.
Another oil you might consider is HPL. We have a ton of evidence here that it is extremely shear stable. Do not forget, you want high HTHS and grade retention, NOT high KV100 at the start that will shear fast!
This 100%. That's why I use the HPL Euro 5/40 - the Star VIIs are showing lower vis. drop than any oil I've used including M1 0 and 5W40.
 
Hello all,

Happy I posted here, lot's of great information. I learned the oil HTHS is as important as the additive pack, and their is variability in these oils.

A couple points to add to the discussion.

Agree- Approved, and specficied / sutable are different things.



The Redline is actually very interesting, there ar multiple oils,

1. The Normal Redline 5w40 "Sutable for A40",
https://www.redlineoil.com/5w40-motor-oil

2. The Professional Redline 5w40 "Approved for A40"
https://www.redlineoil.com/professional-series-5w40-motor-oil

3. The Normal Redline 5w40 Euro "Sutable for C40" Porsche new lower particulate spec?
https://www.redlineoil.com/euro-series-5w40-motor-oil

I really like the Redline 5W40, 4.4 HTHS, Sutable for C40. From blackstone high ZDDP, high HTHS, easily available.

I would like to stay with A40 approved, or suitable for A40. I am not smart enough on oils, so I rather stay close for now.

I am thinking top runners are:
1. Redline 5W40 Regular
2. Motul 8100 xcess gen 2 5w40
3. Mobil 1 5W40 HTHS is 4.4 and it's actually A40 Approved. I found it's $7 a quart, so this is my actual front runner. Here is a VOA comparison. Lower ZDDP, but appealing.

Actual application will be a garage queen, spirted weekend drives in the country, maybe 3k max between oil changes, started in a heated garage with temps no lower than 45F.
Guys like the Redline 0w40 because it gets up to temp a little faster and still has a HTHS of 4
 
If so it’s because of the high HT/HS that it heats up faster. Thicker oils heat up faster than thinner ones.
They do, but depending on the motor and the sump, the thinner oils come up to temp faster because they come into contact with hotter surfaces faster that thicker oils. Ive seen this alot on different race cars with large sumps
 
They do, but depending on the motor and the sump, the thinner oils come up to temp faster because they come into contact with hotter surfaces faster that thicker oils. Ive seen this alot on different race cars with large sumps
That’s a new one to me.

So you’re saying the Red Line 0W-40 is thin somehow?
 
They do, but depending on the motor and the sump, the thinner oils come up to temp faster because they come into contact with hotter surfaces faster that thicker oils. Ive seen this alot on different race cars with large sumps
You lost me. RL 0W40 is everything but thin.
 
Guys like the Redline 0w40 because it gets up to temp a little faster and still has a HTHS of 4

I really like Redline 0w40 and 0w50. Here is a oil analysis I found from someone using it in a BMW.

I bought the Mobil 1 5W50 X2 FS, but can always return it.

The Redline Zinc and Phorporus of the 0w50 and 0w50 are really nice. It's price is also very reasonable and easy to get.

Debating return the Mobil 1 and going with this. Says sutable, aka not officially approved by Porsche.

Which is better?
 

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I really like Redline 0w40 and 0w50. Here is a oil analysis I found from someone using it in a BMW.

I bought the Mobil 1 5W50 X2 FS, but can always return it.

The Redline Zinc and Phorporus of the 0w50 and 0w50 are really nice. It's price is also very reasonable and easy to get.

Debating return the Mobil 1 and going with this. Says sutable, aka not officially approved by Porsche.

Which is better?
It is hard to say in this category which is better. Redline will be more in 300V category except Motul doesn’t play that “suitable for” game. M1 5W50 is street oil. If you track just occasionally to blow off some steam, street oils are generally better although in some vehicles racing pils might prove as a winner. New Motul 300V has more PAO and less ester to make it more suitable for those that use vehicle as street and track car. Redline is kind of that way.
That UOA on M2 is good. Personally, I would try all and do UOA and see trends.
 
I really like Redline 0w40 and 0w50. Here is a oil analysis I found from someone using it in a BMW.

I bought the Mobil 1 5W50 X2 FS, but can always return it.

The Redline Zinc and Phorporus of the 0w50 and 0w50 are really nice. It's price is also very reasonable and easy to get.

Debating return the Mobil 1 and going with this. Says sutable, aka not officially approved by Porsche.

Which is better?
There's no restriction on phosphorous for A3/B4 LL-01 229.5 502/504 A40 oils. Ergo, Mobil could put 2,000ppm of phosphorous in there if they felt so inclined. They don't, none of the full-SAPS oils have a gazillion PPM of phosphorous because it's not beneficial after a certain point. Just putting in "MOAR!!!!!" of a component doesn't make an oil better, that's why they are fully formulated products, where testing is performed to ascertain the proper balance that provides optimal performance.

The Redline white bottle products are, or, were historically, very "old school" in their formulation, just having higher concentrations of the popular metallic additives while claiming to have some volume of ester in the base oil blend. It's not a bad approach, but it's not necessarily better either.
 
The supercar is the C8 Z06 oil. It’s probably based off the ESP additive pack originally despite the ZDDP levels, not the FS additive pack like the X2. Is it a better oil? Maybe. It doesn’t have Porsche or any other Euro approvals so you would be placing some faith in Dexos R. It’s probably a better oil but we really don’t know if it would pass every A40 test. If you’re going to go away from approved oils I tend to think 300V is a better choice than another Mobil street oil specified for a different engine. I’m guessing it’s a great oil but you would be the guinea pig here for sure.
 
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