Originally Posted By: 2004tdigls
take the car to a dealer and buy a new engine
its done
And why would you say that?
take the car to a dealer and buy a new engine
its done
And why would you say that?
Poor Boxer Motor
- Thread starter THORROMIG
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If this is the turbo Baja (EJ257), I'm REALLY surprised she has not blown something as of yet. If it's an NA car, they can stand up to quite a bit of abuse (factory rec'd OCI is 7500 miles), but never changing oil will put any engine six feet under.
IMHO, I would stick with a couple short OCI's-I'd say about 3k max. I'd try to use a high mileage oil as well, or something else high quality.
Best of luck to you man. Get it back on a regular changing interval, and it might just last her a nice long while.
Value? I'd say anywhere from $10-15k, depending on model and mileage.
IMHO, I would stick with a couple short OCI's-I'd say about 3k max. I'd try to use a high mileage oil as well, or something else high quality.
Best of luck to you man. Get it back on a regular changing interval, and it might just last her a nice long while.
Value? I'd say anywhere from $10-15k, depending on model and mileage.
Thank you all for the feedback. Discussed/stressed the "importance" of checking and changeing the oil regulary on this 06 Non-turbo Baja. Told her some of the suggestions from this site and recommended that we change this oil once it has 2thousand miles due to past neglect. Since I know her all to well its gonna get a Mobil One or Pennzoil Full Synthetic from hear on out probally at 5-7500 mile intervals. Im gonna keep a close eye on the consumption here for the next oil change,etc. Dipstick is moving alot more freely these days with lubrication!
High mileage will help stop leaks and oil from burning off. It wouldn't be a bad idea to use it.
Originally Posted By: thorromig
Good female friend has a 06 Subaru Baja 2.5! Asked me to change the oil, drainded awhole 5 seconds at the most with barely any oil is my point?? Checked the dipstick and it was literally stuck. Filled with Castrol GTX 5W30 and within 1 thousand miles--a quart was gone with no drips underneath. The car only has 43 thousand miles and she thinks her brother changed it acouple times in the past??? Is it time to run highmileage motor oil in this motor now or just run a good quality synthectic?
Originally Posted By: thorromig
Good female friend has a 06 Subaru Baja 2.5! Asked me to change the oil, drainded awhole 5 seconds at the most with barely any oil is my point?? Checked the dipstick and it was literally stuck. Filled with Castrol GTX 5W30 and within 1 thousand miles--a quart was gone with no drips underneath. The car only has 43 thousand miles and she thinks her brother changed it acouple times in the past??? Is it time to run highmileage motor oil in this motor now or just run a good quality synthectic?
Originally Posted By: thorromig
Dipstick is moving alot more freely these days with lubrication!
Words to live by!
Dipstick is moving alot more freely these days with lubrication!
Words to live by!
Originally Posted By: thorromig
she thinks her brother changed it acouple times in the past???
That probably means the oil has "never" been changed. The thing is severyl abused/dead. What a shame.
Originally Posted By: thorromig
its gonna get a Mobil One or Pennzoil Full Synthetic from hear on out probally at 5-7500 mile intervals
Do not waste your money here. Its (at this point) gulping too much oil.
The 2.5 N/A will run well on pi$$. That engine is extremely easy on oil. If you want to go with syn go with WallyWorld SuperTech. I have used that in mine.
she thinks her brother changed it acouple times in the past???
That probably means the oil has "never" been changed. The thing is severyl abused/dead. What a shame.
Originally Posted By: thorromig
its gonna get a Mobil One or Pennzoil Full Synthetic from hear on out probally at 5-7500 mile intervals
Do not waste your money here. Its (at this point) gulping too much oil.
The 2.5 N/A will run well on pi$$. That engine is extremely easy on oil. If you want to go with syn go with WallyWorld SuperTech. I have used that in mine.
She showed me 4 reciepts she had in the glovebox for oil/filter purchases. Shes a good friend & its her money buying the oil. It has great oil pressure and seems to be running just fine. Changed her air filter & plugs this morning so we are both keeping our fingers crossed!!
Originally Posted By: Gene K
If it continues to use a quart every 1000 miles just change the filter every 5000 miles and top up. Thats all it needs. The engine doesnt care if its drained all at once through the drain plug or 1 quart at a time past the rings.
A common misconception and a recipe for disaster.
Often the oil gets burned off the cylinder walls and the "dirt" gets left behind.
The oil level is maintained, but it gets dirtier and dirtier.
If it continues to use a quart every 1000 miles just change the filter every 5000 miles and top up. Thats all it needs. The engine doesnt care if its drained all at once through the drain plug or 1 quart at a time past the rings.
A common misconception and a recipe for disaster.
Often the oil gets burned off the cylinder walls and the "dirt" gets left behind.
The oil level is maintained, but it gets dirtier and dirtier.
No one recommends MMO? I've never even used MMO but this seems like a perfect candidate in so many ways
w/ the cheapest oil you can find
w/ the cheapest oil you can find
Originally Posted By: circuitsmith
Originally Posted By: Gene K
If it continues to use a quart every 1000 miles just change the filter every 5000 miles and top up. Thats all it needs. The engine doesnt care if its drained all at once through the drain plug or 1 quart at a time past the rings.
A common misconception and a recipe for disaster.
Often the oil gets burned off the cylinder walls and the "dirt" gets left behind.
The oil level is maintained, but it gets dirtier and dirtier.
Not so, oil on the cylinder walls isn't burned, it's the oil that's made it to the top of the upper piston ring that's burned... The dirt in the oil goes out the tailpipe with the smoke(that you may or may not see)...
If the rings aren't sealing and allow blowby down the cylinder wall, that will overheat the oil and std OCI should probably be maintained... If compression is in spec, OCI could easily be extended 2x-3x with a quart of make up oil per K mile...
Originally Posted By: Gene K
If it continues to use a quart every 1000 miles just change the filter every 5000 miles and top up. Thats all it needs. The engine doesnt care if its drained all at once through the drain plug or 1 quart at a time past the rings.
A common misconception and a recipe for disaster.
Often the oil gets burned off the cylinder walls and the "dirt" gets left behind.
The oil level is maintained, but it gets dirtier and dirtier.
Not so, oil on the cylinder walls isn't burned, it's the oil that's made it to the top of the upper piston ring that's burned... The dirt in the oil goes out the tailpipe with the smoke(that you may or may not see)...
If the rings aren't sealing and allow blowby down the cylinder wall, that will overheat the oil and std OCI should probably be maintained... If compression is in spec, OCI could easily be extended 2x-3x with a quart of make up oil per K mile...
Originally Posted By: cptbarkey
awesome good news, i wonder if this was a product of not using a subaru OEM or non bypass spec'd oil filter?
No.
If that were the case, virtually every 2.5 NA would be gulping oil, ours included.
Ours has required no oil adds on drains of up to 6K.
awesome good news, i wonder if this was a product of not using a subaru OEM or non bypass spec'd oil filter?
No.
If that were the case, virtually every 2.5 NA would be gulping oil, ours included.
Ours has required no oil adds on drains of up to 6K.
Originally Posted By: circuitsmith
Originally Posted By: Gene K
If it continues to use a quart every 1000 miles just change the filter every 5000 miles and top up. Thats all it needs. The engine doesnt care if its drained all at once through the drain plug or 1 quart at a time past the rings.
A common misconception and a recipe for disaster.
Often the oil gets burned off the cylinder walls and the "dirt" gets left behind.
The oil level is maintained, but it gets dirtier and dirtier.
Click on the Sentinel System Link I posted above. Oil change interval was 525,000 miles with conventional and that was just to remove sediment from the bottom of the pan.
With commercial engines oil change intervals are adjusted longer for engines that require add oil. Its in the factory manuals.
PS I agree if the engine has excessive blow-by intervals will have to be shortened.
Originally Posted By: Gene K
If it continues to use a quart every 1000 miles just change the filter every 5000 miles and top up. Thats all it needs. The engine doesnt care if its drained all at once through the drain plug or 1 quart at a time past the rings.
A common misconception and a recipe for disaster.
Often the oil gets burned off the cylinder walls and the "dirt" gets left behind.
The oil level is maintained, but it gets dirtier and dirtier.
Click on the Sentinel System Link I posted above. Oil change interval was 525,000 miles with conventional and that was just to remove sediment from the bottom of the pan.
With commercial engines oil change intervals are adjusted longer for engines that require add oil. Its in the factory manuals.
PS I agree if the engine has excessive blow-by intervals will have to be shortened.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Gene K
Click on the Sentinel System Link I posted above. Oil change interval was 525,000 miles with conventional and that was just to remove sediment from the bottom of the pan.
The sentinel system pumps out old oil and replaces it with new.
That's totally different than oil slipping past the rings.
Apples and oranges.
Click on the Sentinel System Link I posted above. Oil change interval was 525,000 miles with conventional and that was just to remove sediment from the bottom of the pan.
The sentinel system pumps out old oil and replaces it with new.
That's totally different than oil slipping past the rings.
Apples and oranges.
Originally Posted By: TFB1
The dirt in the oil goes out the tailpipe with the smoke(that you may or may not see)...
If that were true the oil would never get blackened.
The dirt in the oil goes out the tailpipe with the smoke(that you may or may not see)...
If that were true the oil would never get blackened.
I like the idea of Rotella in there; might be helpful. Definitely do the Rx.
My old 2000 Sube had a boxer motor also, which required constant maintenance of fluids (oil, tranny, coolant) and I always had to stay on top of it. Can't negelct that motor for some reason.
Consistently used Mobil 1 & never had any major issues...other than the typical head gasket failure.
GL
My old 2000 Sube had a boxer motor also, which required constant maintenance of fluids (oil, tranny, coolant) and I always had to stay on top of it. Can't negelct that motor for some reason.
Consistently used Mobil 1 & never had any major issues...other than the typical head gasket failure.
GL
just change the oil it will probably be ok change the oil and wait a month or two and do it again but dont keep changing the oil for no reason it can go 5000 after that unless you like to waste money
Perfect time to remove the valve cover and see whats inside. Clean it up with two or so oil changes then take the cover off again and see if there is any improvement ....take pictures of course.
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