Pentastar 3.6 recommendations

The current online owners manuals for the JK Wrangler 3.6L recommend 5W30 for the 2012 model year, and 5W20 or 5W30 for the 2013-2018 model year. All internal engine part numbers and oil clearances are the same from 2012-2018.

2012 Jeep Wrangler Owner Manual (mopar.com)
3.6L_Oil2012.JPG

2015 Jeep Wrangler Owner's Manual (mopar.com)
3.6L_Oil2015.JPG
 
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FWIW . . Have two 2016 models with the 3.6 Pentastar, and both have been running on 5W-30.
Different motor than the OP, he has the newer gen PUG motor. Global oil recommendation of 0w20. I doubt 5w30 would harm it but its pretty rare you see a global spec for 0w20 but they redesigned the motor internally for this spec oil.
 
Different motor than the OP, he has the newer gen PUG motor. Global oil recommendation of 0w20. I doubt 5w30 would harm it but its pretty rare you see a global spec for 0w20 but they redesigned the motor internally for this spec oil.
Highly doubtful and in all of the research I have done, I have found zero data to substantiate that any changes were made that affect clearances versus oil viscosity between the 1st and 2nd generation 3.6L engines.

Engine clearances haven't changed much in decades and there is enough variation in viscosity in xW-20 oils alone for this engine to be that viscosity sensitive.

50K miles later on xW-30 and mine has not missed a beat.
 
The 3.6 V6 in the new-to-me Ram seems to be running fine. I've read about the lifter issues, but from what I gather, they seem to be from older model years. While the GM 3.6 obviously has very little in common, the 3.6 V6 in my 2010 Traverse was notorious for timing chain issues. I tended to change it every 5,000 in that and made it to 170,000 miles before the dreaded timing chain codes started to appear. What's the consensus on a 2021 Pentastar V6? Follow the OLM? Change more frequently? Valvoline synthetic or Pennzoil Platinum 0W-20 OK?
Hard use in a 2011 GC with 100F degree outdoor temps in stop & go. We used Mopar Oil & whatever the local tire shop provided. Went strictly by OLM and the van had no mechanical issues engine wise into 200k. This was on 5w30 which was spec'd at that time so YMMV but 0w20's are stout oils by default so I wouldn't worry much. My UOA's on the VW have proven that.
 
18 pounds of torque on the cap, just changed mine 2 weeks ago.
No problem, no leaks- perfect....

Even with that little torque the whole housing flexes a little and IMO this flexing contributes to the seals leaking eventually.

I never apply any torque, just stop when the cap touches the housing. The filter is bone dry throughout the OCI. There is simply no need to torque the cap at all.

Not saying this will prevent the housing from leaking eventually but at the very least it will not contribute to it.
 
Even with that little torque the whole housing flexes a little and IMO this flexing contributes to the seals leaking eventually.

I never apply any torque, just stop when the cap touches the housing. The filter is bone dry throughout the OCI. There is simply no need to torque the cap at all.

Not saying this will prevent the housing from leaking eventually but at the very least it will not contribute to it.
Same here. At 88k, no leaks.
 
I counted 9, yes 9 different seals in this engineering abomination. On the oil filters we have used since the beginning of spin on oil filters we have ONE.
Like most modern designs the promise of “new and better” is thwarted by many more failure points. I feel the same way about modern engine management systems & CANBUS wiring networks. It works great til it doesn’t, then better have a good relationship with a dealer with good techs.
I’ll take 70s tech with points & condenser ignition, carburetors and SIMPLE DC wiring. ANYDAY!
 
Even with that little torque the whole housing flexes a little and IMO this flexing contributes to the seals leaking eventually.

I never apply any torque, just stop when the cap touches the housing. The filter is bone dry throughout the OCI. There is simply no need to torque the cap at all.

Not saying this will prevent the housing from leaking eventually but at the very least it will not contribute to it.

I have a extra housing also, even though mine has only been off 4 times.
18 lbs of torque, is just a bump more than a good hand tightening.
I’m just going by the manual.
The only way I see the seal leaking is by over tightening, or not lubing the ring before installing.
As far as the actual assembly, I only see that leaking with age, or someone really putting the muscle behind installing the cap/filter
 
Whatever is on the oil cap is fine.
Most Dodge dealers offer 100,000 mile power train warranty free.
Mine says 5w-20, and in fact I tried a Mobil 1 5W-30, and in 15-30 miles the engine threw a code.
Does that mean everyone will, no.
The 3.6 is easy on oil, that’s why the recommendation in my manual is 10,000 or one year. ( not that I would go as far)
 
The main bugaboo on these is the oil filter housing; most eventually leak. Oil pools in the v between the heads & runs down over the transmission.
Yep had that happen on wife’s 2019 GC. That and every other common issue that’s been reported with these. thousands of $$$$ later.
So I have this POC van and 2020 Ram 5.7 with 50k and no problems yet (though I wonder if I should just bite the bullet and trade it in before there is).
I lost all trust in FCA now after paying for a new head do to cylinder 2 misfire at 60k and a rebuilt transmission just at 100k.should of bought Something else.
 
Highly doubtful and in all of the research I have done, I have found zero data to substantiate that any changes were made that affect clearances versus oil viscosity between the 1st and 2nd generation 3.6L engines.

Engine clearances haven't changed much in decades and there is enough variation in viscosity in xW-20 oils alone for this engine to be that viscosity sensitive.

50K miles later on xW-30 and mine has not missed a beat.
And 0w20 won't have any issue, either.
 
I've been using 5w30 exclusively in my 2015 Grand Caravan and I still had the rocker failure @86k miles. OCIs were between 5-6k miles, the engine is as clean as can be.
Use whatever oil you like and don't worry about it. But do pay attention to the oil filter. I noticed late last year metal flakes in it, but the engine was nice and quiet. Sure enough, this year I started hearing the dreaded tick.
Caught it early enough and the cams were not damaged.

IMG_2806.JPEG
 
One would think that after all this time that a quality replacement would be on the market that (a) worked, and (b) didn't spring leaks all over the place. Then again, the engine designers couldn't have used a regular canister filter and put it where you can f***ing get to it without taking the engine half apart. (same goes for the spark plugs).
 
One would think that after all this time that a quality replacement would be on the market that (a) worked, and (b) didn't spring leaks all over the place. Then again, the engine designers couldn't have used a regular canister filter and put it where you can f***ing get to it without taking the engine half apart. (same goes for the spark plugs).
I think that the designers did a good job of trying to package an oil cooler/filter assembly in a small space (engine bay size constraints).

The number of issues with the implementation of the design is concerning, though. My 2017 Jeep JKU had an oil leak before 50K miles, from what seemed to be the oil cooler (I say “seemed” because I didn’t fully diagnose it before I traded it in. It could have been leaking from another place).

I’m old school, even though I’m young. I would prefer a simpler design (externally mounted easy-to-repair oil cooler), even if it meant a slight larger engine bay.
 
I think that the designers did a good job of trying to package an oil cooler/filter assembly in a small space (engine bay size constraints).

The number of issues with the implementation of the design is concerning, though. My 2017 Jeep JKU had an oil leak before 50K miles, from what seemed to be the oil cooler (I say “seemed” because I didn’t fully diagnose it before I traded it in. It could have been leaking from another place).

I’m old school, even though I’m young. I would prefer a simpler design (externally mounted easy-to-repair oil cooler), even if it meant a slight larger engine bay.
Exactly, it was designed to have all the pressure galleys and drains right there centered in the block. They were trying to get away from the external design for packaging concerns mostly I'm sure in the vans but I'm sure the smaller displacement derivatives had space constraints also. It's luck of the draw really as the 2011 never leaked that I could see but lost a sensor towards it's EOL.
 
Great thing about the PS 3.6 is you can use a MITYVAC extractor, to change the oil.
Gets every last drop out…
Filter is easy to access also.
15 minutes to change oil and filter, no getting under the car, etc.
 
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