4WD
$50 site donor 2025
The spin-on filter on top of the adapter is pretty goofy - it just seems like more stress on the unit - not less.I've found that the issue isn't really about over-torquing during filter changes. In fact, setting the filter cap to about 16-17 ft-lb is usually sufficient; there's no need to max out at 18 ft-lb. The real problem lies with the plastic oil filter housing supplied for these vehicles. It's simply not well-designed or well-made. I experienced a failure myself with a brand new Jeep at just 6000 miles. One evening, I noticed a smell of burnt coolant while driving. Despite using dye and a black light, I couldn’t locate the leak. However, after warming up the engine and literally sniffing around the center of the engine compartment, I pinpointed the source. I ended up replacing the faulty housing with a Dorman aluminum unit made in Malaysia, and since then, I’ve had no issues with smells, leaks, or anything else. Now, I make sure to tighten the oil filler cap to 17 ft-lb with each oil change and use Mopar gaskets for the housing.
As for the Baxter plus, it seems like it's a solution looking for a problem. I’ve looked into it too. Perhaps the version with the filter relocation kit might be useful, but I would avoid the model with the filter on top. It's quite heavy and could potentially introduce more issues. Also, the argument about preventing "dry starts" doesn't hold much water for me. Unless your engine sits idle for weeks, you're unlikely to hear any lifter clatter. Even with a Baxter unit, lifters can still bleed down over time.
How do you know if the Dorman will be made in Malaysia?