Pennzoil Claims Formulation of Platinum Changed to Reflect New 15,000-mile Guarantee On Bottle

[Patman]

In southern Ontario it very very seldom gets cold enough. All in all I would bet if you were pressed to make a choice in your part of the country you would take a 30 all day. Chances are where you live it won't normally become cold enough for that 0w20 but it definitely will get hot enough for a 30.

I have made my choice and for the Civic I will still always choose 0w20 over 5w30. Even if the fuel economy benefit is a fraction of a MPG, it will still make a difference over hundreds of thousands of miles and I’m still confident that this engine will last a long time on it. This engine does not get stressed at all, so it will do just fine with a lower HTHS oil.

I just think that every situation is different and in my situation there is no need for a 5w30 here. This 2.0 engine has port injection so it isn’t prone to fuel dilution, and it has a CVT so with a very light foot on the gas the engine rarely gets above 2000 rpm. It really couldn’t live an easier life than it does with me

 

[Gyro Gearloose]

I just find it curious that there is now Quaker State Ultimate Protection which claims 20k mile durability, and sells for a couple dollars less than PP. I thought PP was supposed to be the flagship oil for Shell because of the GTL base oil.

 

[Patman]

I just find it curious that there is now Quaker State Ultimate Protection which claims 20k mile durability, and sells for a couple dollars less than PP. I thought PP was supposed to be the flagship oil for Shell because of the GTL base oil.

Price doesn’t always reflect the quality of an oil though. Just look at Royal Purple for instance. Big price but not as good quality as much lower priced oils.

My take is that Quaker State just isn’t selling as well as it did a few decades ago so in order to get more sales it’s priced lower than Pennzoil Ultra, which is already a popular product that people don’t seem to mind paying a few bucks more for. But that doesn’t necessarily mean that QSUP is drastically inferior either, it’s still a very good choice. One of the best bangs for the buck right now actually.

 

[facility1]

Royal Purple is a fine oil,used it myself nice and quiet,and if you watch sales/rebates the purchase price can be comparative to other premium brands, Quaker state ultimate though is a excellent oil for the money.

 

[Analog-1]

I have made my choice and for the Civic I will still always choose 0w20 over 5w30.

We have all types of Honda engines in are dealer everyday with 200.000,300.000 Plus miles running 0w-20 from day one there is no issues with Honda engines and 0w-20 oils NONE.

 

[Scuder]

Price doesn’t always reflect the quality of an oil though. Just look at Royal Purple for instance. Big price but not as good quality as much lower priced oils.

My take is that Quaker State just isn’t selling as well as it did a few decades ago so in order to get more sales it’s priced lower than Pennzoil Ultra, which is already a popular product that people don’t seem to mind paying a few bucks more for. But that doesn’t necessarily mean that QSUP is drastically inferior either, it’s still a very good choice. One of the best bangs for the buck right now actually.

Shortly after Shell bought out Pennzoil-Quaker State Co., they internally announced the decision to position Quaker State below Pennzoil. Pennzoil would receive receive much more marketing support, and prices would reflect that. Before then they were more or less considered equals, holding the numbers 1 and 2 market share positions for US PCMO sales. Shell wanted to position the brands to compete for different segments of the market instead of going head to head.

 

[OVERKILL]

No one is questioning your military service. The fact that you were or are military doesn't automatically make you right, or don't you get that? So don't get ticked, you are not beyond reproach.Becoming irate doesn't make you right. Any keyboard warrior can boast credentials, which you did but it doesn't necessarily make it so. And yes, I'll almost always take a 30 grade over a 20.

I think if we take his point tangentially, just saying "30 will protect better" glosses over a lot of nuance. Sure, if both oils are formulated the same that's likely true, but the additive package is the primary means of protection in boundary/mixed regimens, so if the grade bump isn't enough to move these areas out of those modes and into hydrodynamic, then it's certainly possible for a xW-20 with a more robust additive package to provide superior wear control to a Joe Blow average 5W-30.

 

[JRay’07]

 

[Nesterenko]

I think if we take his point tangentially, just saying "30 will protect better" glosses over a lot of nuance. Sure, if both oils are formulated the same that's likely true, but the additive package is the primary means of protection in boundary/mixed regimens, so if the grade bump isn't enough to move these areas out of those modes and into hydrodynamic, then it's certainly possible for a xW-20 with a more robust additive package to provide superior wear control to a Joe Blow average 5W-30.

I agree but I did say "almost always". Also I would add that you're comparing a better ad pack vs a joe blow ad pack. So the two oils are not starting off on equal footing.

 

[john_pifer]

View attachment 219241

Interesting how there’s no reduction in wear after about 2.6 HTHS in that particular test.

 

[BornSlippy]

Interesting how there’s no reduction in wear after about 2.6 HTHS in that particular test.

That test was done at 130C. Most 0W-20 oils are around 2.7 HTHS at 100C.

We haven't seen the rampant destruction with XW-20 oils. At the same time, I don't think an XW-30 would be a bad choice either for a little extra cushion. Maybe even something in a Euro flavour like M1 ESP 0W-30 SP rated.

At the end of the day, do what makes you feel comfortable. There really is no right or wrong answer. If I had a nice van like your Odyssey, I would plan on keeping it for many years, and would not hesitate to run XW-30 oil.

 

[john_pifer]

That test was done at 130C. Most 0W-20 oils are around 2.7 HTHS at 100C.

We haven't seen the rampant destruction with XW-20 oils. At the same time, I don't think an XW-30 would be a bad choice either for a little extra cushion. Maybe even something in a Euro flavour like M1 ESP 0W-30 SP rated.

At the end of the day, do what makes you feel comfortable. There really is no right or wrong answer. If I had a nice van like your Odyssey, I would plan on keeping it for many years, and would not hesitate to run XW-30 oil.

Haha… Funny you should say that. It currently has PPPP 5W-30 in the sump (changed it for the first time about a month after we got it, at 2500 mi),

And, just a couple of days ago, I bought 2 jugs of M1 ESP 0W-30 when they started carrying it at my local Walmart for $27/jug. I’ll use that when I change it for the 2nd time at 5000 mi. Then I’ll change it every 5000 mi from then on.

I was thinking I’ll use the M1 ESP 0W-30 in hotter weather, and the PPPP 5W-30 in cold weather.

Or whatever good name-brand synth is on sale.

Or, maybe I’ll make ESP 0W-30 my “one oil to rule them all” and use it in my Tacoma and in the Odyssey.

Currently the Tacoma has M1 0W-40 in the sump, but I have run the 0W-30 ESP in it before.

I should send a sample to the lab from them both.

 

[OVERKILL]

I agree but I did say "almost always". Also I would add that you're comparing a better ad pack vs a joe blow ad pack. So the two oils are not starting off on equal footing.

Yes, that's why I used the qualifier "if both oils are formulated the same, that's likely true". My point is simply that you can't just go by grade, there are other factors, which can have a considerable impact, depending on what oils we are discussing

 

[Nesterenko]

it's certainly possible for a xW-20 with a more robust additive package to provide superior wear control to a Joe Blow average 5W-30.

Again, that would be an old apples to oranges scenario.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Me too, I have a case of PPPP 5W-20 she sent me. Still trying to burn through the $1/quart Magnatec before all the bottles fail…

I keep forgetting. Please remind me what the four P's represent in words?
I see John Pifer used the 4P's also. Maybe he could chime-in.
I'm doing home studies today. I know, my in-class attendance has been terrible and I need to start taking double doses of my Gingko.

 

[john_pifer]

I keep forgetting. Please remind me what the four P's represent in words?
I see John Pifer used the 4P's also. Maybe he could chime-in.
I'm doing home studies today. I know, my in-class attendance has been terrible and I need to start taking double doses of my Gingko.

Pennzoil Platinum Pure Plus.

The “pure plus” designates their GTL base oil. Which, I remember, reading, is actually so pure, that it is clear, before any additives are added.

 

[OVERKILL]

Again, that would be an old apples to oranges scenario.

Yup, but it happens all the time.

 

[kschachn]

The “pure plus” designates their GTL base oil. Which, I remember, reading, is actually so pure, that it is clear, before any additives are added.

I believe all Group III base stocks must be clear and colorless ("water white"). The required lower amount of sulfur compounds helps here.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Thanks John.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Very much so. I'm an engineer with a large HVAC Company and retired military dealing with engine room equipment daily.

There is no guarantee a 30 weight will protect your vehicles any better than a 20 weight in a properly functioning engine. Now, if you have issues, such as excess fuel dilution, etc. then sure, a 30 weight may help if you leave it in for an extended drain cycle. Just saying 30 is better than 20 is incorrect though. My .02 ( I use both BTW.)

It's about more MOFT headroom, which gives more wear protection headroom to cover all driving conditions. Why risk running at a lower MOFT when you can increase it simply with a higher viscosity.