OW-16 vs 0W-20 viscosity specs - does it really matter.

So why is the same.engine speced or allowed to use heavier oils outside of the US?
Good point. I was looking at the 2023 Prius and it takes 0W-16 as well. I just like to use what the factory suggests and in the OP's case I believe the 0W-20 would be just fine. I would use the 0W-16 if it were my car however Toyota's are built well and will most likely last for many, many years and miles no matter if it's a 0W-20 or a 0W-16.
 
What instigated this thread is I am debating dumping the new 0W-16 out of my Toyota and replacing it with 0W-20. The 0W-16 is new. I took the car to the dealer - feel obligated as its still in warranty - and they changed the oil for free - work order and window sticker say 0w-16 which is what the manual calls for.
.....

So do I dump it and put in 0w-20?

...
What?! Reads like insanity on the face of it. But I need to know your concern. Is it operational in nature or just an "imagined" low quality - and therefor inadequate - dealer service ?

What Toyota is this? Camry or a Prius Hybrid or ?

Are you experiencing excessive engine noise when warm?

Other than hearing excessive engine racket - forget the spec sheet and KV100. You really wouldn't know the in situ HTHS.

On any passenger car engine run the thinnest oil that does not promote rod or chain noises at elevated rpm transition.

From my past new engine experience, large 4 cyl tend to require an increased HTHS in the sump for adequate operation.

- Ken
 
What?! Reads like insanity on the face of it. But I need to know your concern. Is it operational in nature or just an "imagined" low quality - and therefor inadequate - dealer service ?

What Toyota is this? Camry or a Prius Hybrid or ?

Are you experiencing excessive engine noise when warm?

Other than hearing excessive engine racket - forget the spec sheet and KV100. You really wouldn't know the in situ HTHS.

On any passenger car engine run the thinnest oil that does not promote rod or chain noises at elevated rpm transition.

From my past new engine experience, large 4 cyl tend to require an increased HTHS in the sump for adequate operation.

- Ken
I am experiencing no issues or concerns that would point to any immediate doom. It was more an "academic" question than anything.

The application is a 2.5l dynamic force engine in a 2019 Rav4 - ICE model - not hybrid. Its at about 30K miles at this point.
 
Toyota dealer is very different than Toyota. Still your probably right that you can't even buy any crap oil anymore.
Maybe not crap, especially compared to oils of a decade or so back, but certainly lower quality oil compared to M1, Pennzoil, Valvoline, etc. Just because an oil "meets the spec" doesn't mean that it's a quality product. The API spec can be met by some pretty mediocre oils.
 
Then why say it was? Just to post crap?
Since its apparent on this forum you don't like me - why respond to my posts - just to post crap?

Crap is a relative comparison. This entire website is about comparing different brands and weights of oils I guess by your measure the entire site is "crap".

Whats interesting in my mind is that 0w-16 KV100 overlaps 0w-20 KV100 - and that doesn't happen in the API specs at weight higher - so there is obviosly other parameters to discuss. If you prefer not to discuss them, why participate?

Thick vs. thin along with the old “disparage dealers” content.

Since you don't care for debate on thick vs thin - why even open the thread - the title is pretty clear on what its about?
 
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....... So do I dump it and put in 0w-20? Side question, if I do - do I change the filter - its a new OEM filter - so I am thinking not on that part.
I dumped mine and went to 0W-30 and never looked back. I first tried 0W-20 at 400 miles, and the engine ran quieter when idling at operating temperature. I then went to 0W-30 after that, and it ran much quieter. And I dump the filter every oil change. I'll save $5 somewhere else.

I've never had the vehicle back to the dealer since I bought it.
 
Now we have evolved to 0W16 VS 0W20.

You must have meant devolved.

I think now it's thin vs. thinner.

These threads are always so much fun, especially when HTHS, additive packages, formulation, etc., are almost never discussed.

As @OVERKILL likes to say: Engines can't be that sensitive to viscosity. And they are not.

They are good motors. A lot of Mazda input went into them. Nobody should worry about running the oil that Toyota recommends.

No doubt about it. When I upgrade the oil, like I did in the Durango, I think about the viscosity-temperature relationship (went to 0W-40 in the RAM 1500 a few years ago, long story) or wanted something slightly more robust for the Durango because I want to tow with it, and while I'm sure they tested towing with 0W-20, it gives me piece of mind knowing that I got a bit of extra cushion there. As for the Toyota, if the owner drives it just as a commuter vehicle, then 0W-16 is plenty.
 
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