I could swear we were pushing 1,000.The 834th variant of the "thick vs. thin" debate.
Or is it the 835th? I'm so confused.
I could swear we were pushing 1,000.The 834th variant of the "thick vs. thin" debate.
Or is it the 835th? I'm so confused.
Good point. I was looking at the 2023 Prius and it takes 0W-16 as well. I just like to use what the factory suggests and in the OP's case I believe the 0W-20 would be just fine. I would use the 0W-16 if it were my car however Toyota's are built well and will most likely last for many, many years and miles no matter if it's a 0W-20 or a 0W-16.So why is the same.engine speced or allowed to use heavier oils outside of the US?
What?! Reads like insanity on the face of it. But I need to know your concern. Is it operational in nature or just an "imagined" low quality - and therefor inadequate - dealer service ?What instigated this thread is I am debating dumping the new 0W-16 out of my Toyota and replacing it with 0W-20. The 0W-16 is new. I took the car to the dealer - feel obligated as its still in warranty - and they changed the oil for free - work order and window sticker say 0w-16 which is what the manual calls for.
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So do I dump it and put in 0w-20?
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Toyota dealer is very different than Toyota. Still your probably right that you can't even buy any crap oil anymore.I seriously doubt that Toyota puts "Crap" quality oil in their vehicles as the op stated.
I am experiencing no issues or concerns that would point to any immediate doom. It was more an "academic" question than anything.What?! Reads like insanity on the face of it. But I need to know your concern. Is it operational in nature or just an "imagined" low quality - and therefor inadequate - dealer service ?
What Toyota is this? Camry or a Prius Hybrid or ?
Are you experiencing excessive engine noise when warm?
Other than hearing excessive engine racket - forget the spec sheet and KV100. You really wouldn't know the in situ HTHS.
On any passenger car engine run the thinnest oil that does not promote rod or chain noises at elevated rpm transition.
From my past new engine experience, large 4 cyl tend to require an increased HTHS in the sump for adequate operation.
- Ken
Then why say it was? Just to post crap?Toyota dealer is very different than Toyota. Still you’re probably right that you can't even buy any crap oil anymore.
Maybe not crap, especially compared to oils of a decade or so back, but certainly lower quality oil compared to M1, Pennzoil, Valvoline, etc. Just because an oil "meets the spec" doesn't mean that it's a quality product. The API spec can be met by some pretty mediocre oils.Toyota dealer is very different than Toyota. Still your probably right that you can't even buy any crap oil anymore.
Since its apparent on this forum you don't like me - why respond to my posts - just to post crap?Then why say it was? Just to post crap?
Thick vs. thin along with the old “disparage dealers” content.
No, that's not how that oil pump works. It's not a computer fan.not much programming needed to run an oil pump: vary a PWM signal to keep oil pressure around the target. and in some cases, like high rpm or right after start-up it's "give it all she's got"
I dumped mine and went to 0W-30 and never looked back. I first tried 0W-20 at 400 miles, and the engine ran quieter when idling at operating temperature. I then went to 0W-30 after that, and it ran much quieter. And I dump the filter every oil change. I'll save $5 somewhere else........ So do I dump it and put in 0w-20? Side question, if I do - do I change the filter - its a new OEM filter - so I am thinking not on that part.
As I stated up above, it used to be 5W20 VS 5W30. Now we have evolved to 0W16 VS 0W20. Let the "thick vs thin" debates begin!The 834th variant of the "thick vs. thin" debate.
Or is it the 835th? I'm so confused.
Some educational content:
Now we have evolved to 0W16 VS 0W20.
They are good motors. A lot of Mazda input went into them. Nobody should worry about running the oil that Toyota recommends.