Older car daily drivers

My 2006 Tacoma 2.7 is commuted daily with no worries whatsoever. 168k miles and runs like new. I do 7-8k mile oil/filter changes with name brand 5w30 synthetic (Mobil 1, PP, etc).
I agree with the comment that the maintenance is key to a long-running reliable vehicle, but also the design and engineering must be considered. You can't buy a cheap crappy car and expect it to be reliable just because you stay on top of maintenance.
I agree, design and engineering is unfortunately very important. I’ve tried proving that excellent maintenance and care can make up for poor design and build quality. Didn’t work.
 
I might get brakes on mine soon. Maybe some fluid changes too.

Oil going on 9000 miles (I do not know what kind was in the engine when I got it back. Probably something good) but I can still see through it. Starting to get dark.
 
Yeah my 1989 Mazda B2200 with 108,000 on it goes everywhere I go by myself it runs just occasionally you will need to clean the carburetor cause it doesn’t like the ethanol in the gas I bought it with 104,000 it set under a carport for 7 years cause the guy got cancer unfortunately I have literally done nothing to it but General Maintenance I swear you can’t kill the thing. Now my 1973 Volkswagen Super Beetle doesn’t get to go out but around the block and all that because I don’t want it damaged or anything

I have a customer with a '90 Mazda B2200 & over 350,000 miles. I wish it would die as I hate working on it & parts are getting hard to find.
 
There does not seem to be a Post Your Dipstick thread, (maybe there should be?) so I will post my car's dipstick and beautiful, almost 9000 mile old oil (less than three months time.)

It really should be changed, but first comes the money and then we figure out that kind of thing. I have a trans drain bolt too that does not require removal of the whole pan.. so I can change both whenever I feel, easily.

20200901_194214.webp
 
95s tended to drop a valve ? 1.9L. Great car.
Yeah, the 2nd and 3rd generation Escorts were bad about dropping valve seats, It was usually on cylinder #4 and overheating the engine increased the chances drastically. I've got an '02 with 202K and haven't had any valve seat issues.
 
I feel like this has been said by endless amounts of people for many, many years. I'm sure when power windows began to be introduced, there was a huge uproar on the expensive repairs/problems and how technology will cause reliability issues. Then followed by every other technological enhancement added to vehicles.

Cars are more reliable than ever and can easily with absolute minimal maintenance see 100K+. I'm sure that was not the case 15-20 years ago. Easier to work on? Probably because you HAD to work on them. Today, you basically need to change the oil and filters and you are set to go.

No, TCO of vehicles is now much higher than it used to be, unless you rack up those 100K mi mostly on highways and you're essentially putting more miles on so you end up replacing whole vehicle sooner so you still paid more from higher (re)purchase price, which is looking at reliability from the other parameter of age rather than mileage. The relevant parameter should be cost per year since a vehicle will not last twice as long driving it half as far on city streets stop and go, instead of highway miles.

Collision repair costs are up.
Parts costs are up. Unless you get Chinese junk.
Repair labor rates are up due to increasing disassembly needed.
More electronics systems means more parts to break, more specialized repair skills, and potential programming needed.

20-25 years ago it was more true that all you had to do was change the oil, or the tranny fluid if you picked something with a weak tranny.

Power windows - I've had to repair them. Adding even more things to break does not subtract that they did fail.

Now here is the big question. If they are so reliable until 100K, then why that cutoff? That seems quite arbitrary to me, that if it's a good vehicle you keep it and if you sell it to get a new one at that point, you suffer the most in yearly TCO from another newer vehicle depreciation period so the expected expenses were just shifted, but somebody's still going to pay them one way or another.
 
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No, TCO of vehicles is now much higher than it used to be, unless you rack up those 100K mi mostly on highways and you're essentially putting more miles on so you end up replacing whole vehicle sooner so you still paid more from higher (re)purchase price, which is looking at reliability from the other parameter of age rather than mileage. The relevant parameter should be cost per year since a vehicle will not last twice as long driving it half as far on city streets stop and go, instead of highway miles.

Collision repair costs are up.
Parts costs are up. Unless you get Chinese junk.
Repair labor rates are up due to increasing disassembly needed.
More electronics systems means more parts to break, more specialized repair skills, and potential programming needed.

20-25 years ago it was more true that all you had to do was change the oil, or the tranny fluid if you picked something with a weak tranny.

Power windows - I've had to repair them. Adding even more things to break does not subtract that they did fail.

Now here is the big question. If they are so reliable until 100K, then why that cutoff? That seems quite arbitrary to me, that if it's a good vehicle you keep it and if you sell it to get a new one at that point, you suffer the most in yearly TCO from another newer vehicle depreciation period so the expected expenses were just shifted, but somebody's still going to pay them one way or another.
My neighbor has a brand new Ram Warrior (classic body style). The touchscreen radio started failing on it. Volume randomly blows his eardrums out. I guessed it would be a software update but the dealership told him they've had several others fail, needs a whole touchscreen assembly. If it fails, almost everything stops working they told him. He asked how much it cost if it wasn't under warranty. They said about $7000 (Canadian). This is why I'm spending hours sanding and priming/painting the frame on my 05 truck while the box is off. I do not want a modern truck anytime soon.
 
Yeah, the 2nd and 3rd generation Escorts were bad about dropping valve seats, It was usually on cylinder #4 and overheating the engine increased the chances drastically. I've got an '02 with 202K and haven't had any valve seat issues.

Focus's with the SPI are just as bad, some do get lucky. Our 02 Focus dropped #4 couple years ago, 140k I think. Spark plug issues caused it. Fixed it with a new head and piston but sucked in another piece I missed in the intake. Just smoothed it out and slapped it back together. My wife is still driving it with 160k, leaks oil and coolant disappears but it still runs good. And the AC is great is why she's not giving it up yet lol.
 
my newest cars are 2003 and no plans to update till I die. my tundra has only 69k and will go the distance my daily 99 Silverado 5.3 has only 90k. I am good
 
There does not seem to be a Post Your Dipstick thread, (maybe there should be?) so I will post my car's dipstick and beautiful, almost 9000 mile old oil (less than three months time.)

It really should be changed, but first comes the money and then we figure out that kind of thing. I have a trans drain bolt too that does not require removal of the whole pan.. so I can change both whenever I feel, easily.

View attachment 28370
9,000 miles in less than three months? Amazing.

I really can’t tell by looking at that picture how dark that oil is...I mean, it does look dark, but it’s just tough to really tell. But 9,000 miles, wow. What kind of oil and what kind of car (if you haven’t already said)?
 
my newest cars are 2003 and no plans to update till I die. my tundra has only 69k and will go the distance my daily 99 Silverado 5.3 has only 90k. I am good
I have 200k and 8700 hours on my 05 Silverado, hoping for like 400k+. Currently it's getting the body done (new cab corners and rocker panels and one fender (just starting to rust from Ontario winters). While it's getting worked on I'm driving my friends 01 Sierra Reg cab 4.8. It's a tight fit with no back seat (our office on wheels for 2 people and all our gear (occasionally 3 people but obviously not with my loaner truck). Don't think I could own anything but a 99-07 gm truck now for work (maybe a Toyota since they seem to be the only other one that can hold up as well as long as the frame doesn't rust).
 
It's not really the maintenance that is more expensive (except tires), it's the repairs outside of normal maintenance. If anything, maintenance is cheaper because so much of it is "lifetime."

It really gets crazy when you get into collision repairs. Radar units and things like that (often housed in bumpers or behind grilles, so easily damaged in a wreck) are thousands of dollars. HID, LED, dilithium crystal, kryptonite, etc. headlamps can be over $1K easily. Inflation can't account for all of that.

I was told that fixing a semi tractor after a deer hit (note: it was driven back to the drop yard, the trailer unhooked, then it was driven to the shop) would run 5 figures if it had adaptive cruise control. One LED headlight is "only" about $500, though.

Of course...it costs as much to replace the exhaust filters as it does to in-frame the engine.
 
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I handed my 16 year old son keys to a 2010 Tundra that had 470k miles. It’s got 475k now and other than burning a little I’d have zero issues driving it again.

I run between GA and Arkansas and several times per month with work so it’s all highway cruise control.

yes, I bought another tundra.
 
Have a 06 MB E class CDI Diesel with 122k miles, I am of theory if it isn't broke don't..... Just oil change in time, transmission filter/fluid once and on my 3rd main battery, tires. Yes MB did SBC brake system under 25 years warranty. I am 67 still go anywhere I want all over US & Canada.
 
I have a customer with a '90 Mazda B2200 & over 350,000 miles. I wish it would die as I hate working on it & parts are getting hard to find.
Lol yes I will agree they are getting hard to get parts for fortunately for me whenever I have needed a part RockAuto or Advance Auto has had it and the Advance Auto in my area always has a lot of stuff in stock that the other auto parts stores don’t do that makes me go there more.
 
I handed my 16 year old son keys to a 2010 Tundra that had 470k miles. It’s got 475k now and other than burning a little I’d have zero issues driving it again.

I run between GA and Arkansas and several times per month with work so it’s all highway cruise control.

yes, I bought another tundra.
That’s insane! 470,000 miles in ten years!!?? Wow.
 
That’s insane! 470,000 miles in ten years!!?? Wow.

yeah, the company I work for sends me from Arkansas to Georgia 1st first and 3rd week of the month with the occasional run into Phoenix AZ at our factory there. I have a choice between a company F250 that’s basically a stripped down work truck with just a basic radio or can choose to drive my own vehicle (they pay my gas...I’m responsible for all maintenance). Id rather have satellite radio and leather seats because Interstate 40 gets BORING with no Bluetooth/satellite radio between Memphis and Flagstaff before turning south.
 
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yeah, the company I work for sends me from Arkansas to Georgia 1st first and 3rd week of the month with the occasional run into Phoenix AZ at our factory there. I have a choice between a company F250 that’s basically a stripped down work truck with just a basic radio or can choose to drive my own vehicle (they pay my gas...I’m responsible for all maintenance). Id rather have satellite radio and leather seats because Interstate 40 gets BORING with no Bluetooth/satellite radio between Memphis and Flagstaff before turning south.
Too bad they don't pay mileage. I get paid $0.55/kilometer and they pay my gas but I don't get anywhere near as many miles. I do have a lot of idle time in winter or heat of summer. 8700 hours on my 05 that was in service on this job since 2011.
 
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